Sweet Pea Citrus ITH Zipper Purse (5x7 Hoop): A Clean, Repeatable Workflow for Crisp Appliqué and Smooth Zippers

Preparation: Materials and Hoop Setup

In-the-hoop (ITH) zipper bags are the "gateway drug" of machine embroidery. When they go right, they look professionally manufactured—like something you bought at a boutique. When they go wrong, they look frustratingly homemade, with crooked zippers and pinched corners.

This Sweet Pea citrus zipper purse is the perfect training ground because it demands you master two critical skills: precision placement (zipper logic) and layer management (appliqué trimming).

As your guide today, I’m going to walk you through this not just as a set of instructions, but as a workflow. We will focus on the sensory details—what you should hear, feel, and see—to guarantee success on your Brother Dream Machine 2 (or any similar machine). We will turn potential anxiety into muscle memory.

What you’ll make (and why this project is worth your time)

The tutorial builds a citrus-themed zipper purse using a Sweet Pea ITH design. The process is broken into two distinct phases:

1. Engineering the Chassis: Constructing the pouch base. This involves the zipper initialization, the "butt-joint" fabric placement (crucial for reducing bulk), and the decorative quilting.
2. The Art Layer: Stitching the decorative citrus slice appliqué panel. This involves batting, base fabric, pith, and wedge layers, culminating in a satin stitch finish.

Mastering this teaches you the "rhythm" of ITH projects: Place, Tape, Stitch, Trim. Once you lock this in, you can mass-produce gifts or products for sale with zero stress.

Tools and materials shown in the video

Hardware / tools

• Brother Dream Machine 2 (or your specific embroidery machine).
• 5x7 embroidery hoop (Standard).
• Appliqué scissors: Double-curved scissors are non-negotiable here. They allow you to trim fabric closely without your hand hitting the hoop wall.
• Standard sewing machine (used briefly to construct straps).

Consumables

• Tearaway stabilizer (standard weight).
• Green painter’s tape (or embroidery-specific tape). Do not use Scotch tape; it leaves residue that gums up needles.
• Thin batting (Pellon 987F or similar fusible fleece works well).
• Zipper (nylon coil, size #3 is standard for these purses).
• Cotton fabrics (bag body, pith, wedge, and lining).
• Polyester embroidery thread (40 wt).

Hidden consumables & prep checks (the stuff that saves your stitch-out)

Most failures happen before the "Start" button is pressed. Here is the professional "Pre-Flight" list that prevents 80% of mid-project panic.

• Fresh Needle: Install a new 75/11 embroidery needle. ITH projects involve stitching through stabilizer, zipper tape, batting, and multiple layers of cotton. A dull needle will cause "thudding" sounds and skipped stitches.
• Bobbin Plan: If you use pre-wounds, verify the sizing (Class 15 vs. SA156). A correct bobbin should click into place. If you hear it rattling during stitching, your tension will suffer.
• Alcohol Swabs: Tape residue is the enemy. If your needle starts getting gummy, a quick wipe with an alcohol swab restores performance instantly.
• Lint Management: Clean the bobbin area before you start. Batting creates "snow," and a clean race hook ensures smooth stitch formation.
• Ironing Station: Preparation is 90% pressing. Wrinkled fabric leads to pleats that cannot be fixed once stitched.

Why printing the instructions helps (without the “talked down to” vibe)

The video strongly recommends printing the Sweet Pea PDF. In cognitive psychology, we call this "offloading." By having the measurements on paper, your brain doesn't have to hold the numbers in working memory, freeing you to focus on machine safety and technique.

Hooping and stabilization: what matters most for ITH

For this project, we use tearaway stabilizer tight in a 5x7 frame. The stabilizer is the "foundation"—if the foundation moves, the house (zipper placement) crumbles.

The Tactile Check: When hooped, the stabilizer should feel like a drum skin. Tap it. It should sound taut, not dull. If it ripples when you push it, re-hoop.

Trigger: The Struggle. Traditional hoops often require significant hand strength to tighten the screw while keeping the stabilizer taut. This can lead to "hoop burn" (friction marks) or hand fatigue.

Solution: If you are struggling to get that "drum-tight" feeling without pain, or if you plan to make 10 of these bags for a craft fair, a magnetic hoop for brother dream machine is a significant workflow upgrade. Magnetic hoops use powerful magnets to clamp the stabilizer instantly and evenly, eliminating the need to wrench on a screw and reducing hoop burn on delicate fabrics.

Prep Checklist (do this before the first stitch)

• File Check: Verify you have loaded the "5x7" version of the design, not the 6x10.
• Hooping: Stabilizer is "drum-tight" (tap test passed).
• Mise en place: All fabric and batting pieces are pre-cut to the exact PDF measurements.
• Tape Prep: Tear off 10-15 small strips of painter's tape and stick them to the edge of your table for rapid access.
• Needle: Fresh 75/11 needle installed.
• Bobbin: Full bobbin loaded; verify the thread tail is cut to the correct length (usually 1/3 inch).

Step 1: Installing the Zipper In The Hoop

Zipper placement is the "make or break" moment. If the zipper is crooked, the entire bag will be twisted. We need absolute rigidity here.

Step-by-step

1. Stitch Placement Line: Run Color Stop 1 directly onto the stabilizer. This shows you exactly where the zipper lives.
2. Position: Place the zipper right side up (zipper pull facing you). Center the teeth directly over the stitched center line.
3. Secure: Tape the top and bottom edges of the zipper tape to the stabilizer.
   • Experience Note: Do not cover the zipper teeth with tape where the needle will travel. Tape the fabric edges of the zipper.

Machine Setting: The "Sweet Spot" Speed

For zipper tack-down, slow your machine down. If your machine runs at 1000 SPM (Stitches Per Minute), drop it to 600 SPM. Hitting a zipper tooth at high speed can deflect the needle, causing it to snap or burr. Slower speeds give the needle time to glide past the nylon coil.

Checkpoints (Vision and Touch)

• Visual: The zipper pull is outside the stitching area (usually at the top).
• Tactile: Run your finger along the zipper tape. It should lay flat without buckling.
• Audio: When the machine stitches near the teeth, listen for a sharp, clean sound. A heavy "thunk" means you hit the coil—stop and check your needle.

Expected outcome

The zipper is stitched down with two parallel lines of stitching. It is completely immobile.

Removing tape without distortion

The Peel Technique: Do not rip the tape up like a band-aid. This stretches the stabilizer. Instead, peel the tape back against itself (flat along the surface). This breaks the adhesive bond without lifting the fibers.

Warning: Safety First. Keep your fingers outside the hoop area when the machine is active. When placing tape near the needle bar, ensure your foot is off the pedal (or the "Lock" button is engaged) to prevent accidental stitching through your finger.

If tape causes needle issues

If you hear a "sticky/snapping" sound as the needle rises, you have adhesive buildup.

• Stop immediately.
• Wipe: Use an alcohol swab on the needle shaft.
• Resume: Do not power through; gummed needles cause thread shredding.

Step 2: Attaching Body Fabric and Batting

The goal here is a flat, professional finish. The enemy is "bulk." We use a technique called the "Butt Joint" to keep seams flat.

Step-by-step: top short fabric strip

1. Locate the short fabric strip for the bag top.
2. Align the folded edge of the fabric directly next to the zipper teeth.
3. The Gap Rule: You want the fabric to kiss the zipper teeth, not overlap them. Overlapping causes the zipper to snag later. Leaving a large gap exposes the ugly zipper tape.
4. Tape and Stitch.

Checkpoints

• Fabric edge is parallel to zipper teeth.
• No "traveling" (fabric shifting) during stitch-out.

Step-by-step: bottom fabric + batting

1. Take your bottom fabric (pre-backed with battting).
2. Align the folded edge against the bottom zipper teeth.
3. Precision Check: Ensure the side edges of the top and bottom fabrics align visually.
4. Tape securely and stitch.

Checkpoints

• The Flatness Test: Run your hand over the seam. It should feel smooth. If there is a lump, the batting may have folded over.
• Tape Integrity: Ensure your tape is holding the fabric taut against the stabilizer.

Decorative quilting / triple stitch

The machine will now perform a triple stitch or decorative pass.

Why this step matters (The Engineering View)

This isn't just decoration. This is structural lamination. It bonds the fabric to the batting and stabilizer, creating a unified material that won't warp when you turn the bag inside out later.

Lining placement happens on the back of the hoop

Deep Breach: This is the step where beginners get confused. We are working on the underside of the hoop now.

Step-by-step: attach lining (back of hoop)

1. Remove Hoop: Take the hoop off the machine. Do not pop the design out!
2. Flip: Turn the hoop over so the stabilizer back is facing you.
3. Place: Align the folded lining fabric with the stitch line of the zipper on the back.
4. Secure: Use extra tape here. Gravity is working against you when you flip it back. Tape the corners and the center.
5. Re-attach: Carefully slide the hoop back onto the machine. Ensure the lining doesn't get rolled up under the needle plate.

Upgrade path: faster, more consistent hooping

If you find that your fabric shifts while you are trying to tape it, or if re-hooping feels like a wrestling match, consider your environment. A hooping station for machine embroidery provides a non-slip surface and fixtures to hold the hoop steady while you align layers. Furthemore, for repetitive production, a magnetic embroidery hoop automatically handles the varying thickness of zipper + batting + fabric without requiring you to adjust screw tension, preventing the "pop" of stabilizer slipping out.

Setup Checklist (end of Step 2)

• Top Seam: Clean, straight, no zipper overlap.
• Bottom Seam: Meets the zipper teeth perfectly.
• Lining: Taped securely to the back of the hoop (gravity check).
• Hoop clearance: Check under the hoop to ensure the lining isn't caught on the machine bed.

Step 3: Creating the Applique Front Panel

This is the artistic phase. Precision trimming determines if your citrus slice looks like a lemon or a blob.

The Golden Rule of Appliqué: It is better to undercut and trim again than to overcut and snip your stitches.

Battery & Base

1. The machine stitches the outline on the batting.
2. Trim: Cut the batting as close to the stitching as possible.
   • Sensory: You want to remove the bulk. If you leave batting excess, the satin stitch later will look lumpy.

Step-by-step: orange base fabric

1. Float the orange fabric (place it on top, no tape usually needed if it's large enough).
2. Stitch the circle placement line.

Step-by-step: pith (white) layer

1. Place white fabric. Stitch.
2. The "Safety Zone": The video instructs to leave the fabric at the top intact. This is likely for seam allowance or operational logic later. Mark this area mentally!
3. Trimming: Use your curved scissors. Hold them so the curve "cups" the stitching—tips pointing up away from the stabilizer. This prevents accidental cutting of the base fabric.

Step-by-step: wedge layer + Precision Trimming

1. Place yellow wedge fabric. Stitch the wedge outlines.
2. The High-Stakes Trim: You must trim the yellow fabric inside the wedge lines to reveal the white pith, and outside the wedges to reveal the orange rind.
   • Technique: Pull the fabric gently taut with tweezers while you snip. Listen for the crisp "snip" of the fabric. If it feels "mushy," your scissors are dull or you are catching batting.

Final detailing: satin stitches

The machine finishes with a satin stitch to cover raw edges.

Expert notes: The Physics of Satin Stitches

Satin stitches pull fabric inward. This is called "pull compensation." If your stabilizer is loose, the satin stitch will pucker the fabric, creating a "bowl" shape.

• The Fix: This goes back to Prep. If your hooping wasn't drum-tight, no amount of software settings will fix it now.
• The Hardware: Consistency is key. A hoop for brother embroidery machine that maintains constant tension around the perimeter is essential for satin work. If you notice gaps between your satin stitch and the fabric edge, it's often a sign of hoop slippage.

Step 4: Lining and Final Assembly Tips

A simple decision tree: fabric thickness vs. stabilizing strategy

Not all zippers are created equal. Use this logic to adjust your plan:

• Scenario A: Quilting Cotton (Standard)
  • Stabilizer: Standard Tearaway.
  • Batting: Thin fusible fleece.
  • Result: Crisp structure, easy turning.
• Scenario B: Canvas or Denim
  • Stabilizer: Medium Tearaway or Cutaway (if fabric has stretch).
  • Batting: Skip it—the fabric has enough body.
  • Result: Rugged, durable bag.
• Scenario C: Vinyl/Faux Leather
  • Stabilizer: Medium Cutaway (Tearaway can perforate vinyl).
  • Batting: None.
  • Result: High-end look, but very thick seams. Go slow over the zipper!

Production mindset: The "Batching" Upgrade

If you are making 20 of these for a bridal shower, do not do them one by one.

1. Pre-cut ALL fabrics.
2. Wind 5 bobbins.
3. Change your needle now.

If you are serious about production, standard hoops will slow you down. The constant screwing and unscrewing leads to wrist strain. Professional embroiderers switch to machine embroidery hoops with magnetic locking mechanisms for a reason: speed. You can hoop a new setup in 10 seconds vs. 60 seconds.

Warning: Magnet Safety. Magnetic frames contain powerful neodymium magnets. They can pinch fingers severely (blood blister hazard). Keep them away from pacemakers, hearing aids, and mechanical watches. Store them with the provided separators.

Hoop Compatibility

Before buying upgrades, verify your specific machine's attachment type. Understanding brother embroidery hoops sizes and attachment styles (slide-in vs. clip-on) is crucial to ensure your new tools fit your Dream Machine 2 perfectly.

Troubleshooting

When things go wrong, don't panic. Use this diagnostic table.

Symptom: "Hoop Burn" (Shiny ring on fabric)

• Likely Cause: Friction from the standard inner hoop ring pressing against delicate velour or napped cotton.
• Quick Fix: Steam the finished item gently (hover the iron, don't press).
• Prevention: Use a brother 5x7 magnetic hoop. Because it clamps flat rather than forcing the fabric into a recess, it eliminates hoop burn entirely.

Symptom: Bird's Nest (Tangle of thread under the plate)

• Likely Cause: Upper threading error (thread slipped out of tension disc) or the lining on the bottom got snagged.
• Quick Fix: Cut the nest carefully. Re-thread the top thread with the presser foot UP (this opens tension discs).
• Prevention: Always hold the thread tail when taking the first stitch.

Symptom: Zipper Needle Breakage

• Likely Cause: Hitting the zipper stopper or the metal pull.
• Quick Fix: Replace needle. Check for burrs on the throat plate.
• Prevention: Move the zipper pull to the safe zone before the machine nears that area. Listen for the machine's rhythm—stop if you hear hesitation.

Symptom: Satin Stitch Gapping (White space between outline and fill)

• Likely Cause: Fabric shifting/Stabilizer loosening.
• Quick Fix: None for the current piece.
• Prevention: Improve hooping technique (Drum tight!). Use spray adhesive (temporary) to bond stabilizer to fabric for extra grip.

Results

When you follow this workflow—Tape securely, Trim patiently, and Hoop tightly—the result is a Sweet Pea citrus zipper purse that stands up to scrutiny. The zipper runs smooth, the corners are crisp, and the appliqué is precise.

If you enjoy the specialized nature of ITH projects, remember that your tools define your ceiling. High-quality curved scissors reduce cutting errors. Fresh needles reduce stitch errors. And upgrading to a brother 5x7 magnetic hoop reduces human error in hooping, allowing you to focus on the creativity rather than the mechanics.

Operation Checklist (Final Review)

• Batting: Trimmed close to stitching lines to prevent bulk.
• Placement: All fabric edges "kissed" the guidelines without overlapping.
• Lining: Was taped securely and didn't fold over on the back.
• Zipper: Tab intact, pull moved to safe zone before final closure.
• Finish: Tearaway removed gently; corners poked out with a turning tool (chopstick or point turner).