Split a Large Design for a 14×14 Multi-Position Jumbo Hoop in Embrilliance Enthusiast (Brother PR1055X Workflow)

Introduction to Multi-Position Hoops in Embrilliance

If you have ever found the perfect jacket-back design only to realize it exceeds your single hoop's limit, you know the sinking feeling of limitation. However, "splitting" a design is not a hack—it is the clean, repeatable standard for stitching large-scale projects without relying on guesswork.

In this white-paper-style guide, you will learn how to configure Embrilliance Enthusiast for a Brother PR1055X jumbo 14×14 multi-position hoop, import and center a large file, and mathematically split it into Top/Bottom sections. For owners of a brother pr1055x embroidery machine, mastering this workflow converts "impossible" jobs into high-value production runs.

The Mindset Shift: Treat splitting as a positioning system, not just a software trick. The software handles the mathematics, but your success relies on the "Physical Trinity": consistent hooping, appropriate stabilization, and precise alignment.

Configuring Preferences for Brother PR1055X and Jumbo Frames

This step causes 90% of user frustration. If the software does not understand your physical boundaries, the "Split" button will simply remain greyed out or function incorrectly.

Step 1 — Open Preferences and set the correct hoop environment

Follow this sequence to establish the digital environment:

1. Click: The Preferences icon (the gear).
2. Navigate: Go to Environment > Hoops.
3. Select Format: Set Format to PES (Standard for Brother PR series).
4. Select Hoop: Choose Jumbo Frame 14" x 14".
5. Activate Mode: Set the hoop mode to Multi-Position.
6. The "Double-Click" Rule: As noted in the video, click Multi-Position and then click it again. Listen for the visual interface update or ensure the selection highlights firmly—this ensures the setting applies.
7. Finalize: Click OK.

Sensory Check (Visual): Your workspace grid must update immediately. Instead of a single clean rectangle, you should see a split hoop layout—often represented by overlapping colored lines or two distinct zones. If the grid looks the same as before, go back; the setting did not stick.

Warning: Physical Safety Hazard. Multi-position projects often involve large, heavy garments (like denim jackets). Ensure you keep fingers clear of the needle bar and pantograph arm. The momentum of a moving jacket can hide the needle path—do not reach into the stitching field to trim a thread while the machine is running.

Why the “Multi-Position” setting matters (and what it changes)

In standard mode, the software calculates coordinates relative to one center point (0,0). In Multi-Position mode, it calculates distinct coordinate sets relative to multiple attachment points. If you skip this, the machine will interpret the design as one giant file that hits the frame limits, resulting in a "Design Too Large" error.

If you are building a repeatable workflow for brother pr1055x hoops, make checking the grid your "Pre-Flight" habit.

How to Import and Resize Your Design

With the environment set, we move to asset management. The goal is to position the artwork so the "split line" lands in a safe area—ideally avoiding dense lettering or complex satin columns if possible.

Step 2 — Import the design

1. Action: Click the Open icon (file folder).
2. Selection: Choose your large design file (the demo uses a "Dragon").

Success Metric: The design appears on the workspace grid, likely exceeding the boundaries of a single section.

Step 3 — Resize and center before splitting

1. Select: Click the design to reveal the bounding box.
2. Resize: Use the corner handles to scale it up. Note: Hold Shift to resize from the center out, keeping registration tight.
3. Center: Click the Center Design button (crosshair icon).

Sensory Check (Visual): The design sits perfectly in the middle of the large field. Crucially, look at where the overlapping "split lines" cross your design.

• Ideal: The split line crosses through filling stitches or open space.
• Avoid: The split line cutting horizontally through nearly-aligned text (registration errors will be obvious here).

Expert note: center first, then split (not the other way around)

Centering establishes a "Zero Point" that is mathematically absolute. In the physical realm of embroidery, especially on heavy jackets, forces like Vector Push and Pull Compensation are constantly fighting you.

By centering the design digitally, you allow yourself to use the standard "Center Mark" on your garment. If you manually drag the design off-center, you must replicate that offset physically on the jacket, which introduces a massive margin for human error.

Using the 'Split Into Hoop' Utility

This is the execution phase. Embrilliance calculates the pathing to logically separate the object data based on the hoop definition.

Step 4 — Run “Split Into Hoop”

1. Navigate: Go to Utilities in the top menu.
2. Execute: Scroll down and select Split Into Hoop.
3. Wait: Allow the software a moment to process complex nodes.

Success Metric: The design is now sliced. Visually, it may look identical, but the data structure has changed.

Checkpoint: confirm you truly have two sections

Do not assume the command worked. Verify it:

1. Hover/Click: Move your mouse over the top half. The selection box should only encompass the top geometry.
2. Object Tree inspection: Look at the Objects panel on the right. You should now see distinct groups, often labeled or color-separated to indicate Top and Bottom.

Production-minded advice (so you don’t lose time later)

Splitting is digital; stitching is physical. The "Bottom" section of a split file is notorious for registration issues because gravity pulls on the heavy jacket during the long stitch run.

The Commercial Reality: If you are stitching one jacket for a friend, standard hoops are fine. However, if you are running a batch of 50 jackets for a client:

• The Bottleneck: Re-hooping thick seams is slow, painful, and leads to "Hoop Burn" (permanent shiny rings on fabric).
• The Solution Ladder:
  • Level 1: Use better stabilizer (Cutaway) to prevent shifting.
  • Level 2 (Tool Upgrade): Switch to Magnetic Hoops. Terms like magnetic embroidery hoop are industry standard for a reason—they clamp thick jackets instantly without forcing you to tighten screws, saving your wrists and ensuring the fabric doesn't "pop out" mid-split.
  • Level 3 (Scale): If you are consistently maxing out 14x14 fields, consider if a dedicated wide-field multi-needle machine (like SEWTECH platforms) is required to maintain profitability.

Verifying Your Split Design Before Stitching

This is your "X-Ray" phase. Verification prevents the catastrophe of sending a file to the machine, only to find the "Top" file actually contains stray stitches from the bottom, causing the machine to travel outside the safe zone.

Step 5 — Use Print Preview to verify each section

1. Action: Go to File > Print Preview.
2. Review Top: Ensure page 1 (or the first view) shows only the top half.
3. Review Bottom: Ensure the next view shows only the bottom half.

Visual Anchor: You are looking for "Clean Isolation". If you see a random floating stitch in the Top file that belongs to the dragon's tail at the bottom, the split was messy. Undo and adjust position slightly to clean up the node logic.

Comment-driven “watch out” (common beginner confusion)

Novices often skip the Print Preview, assuming the visible workspace is "What You Get" (WYSIWYG). It is not. The workspace shows the composite; Print Preview shows the data file. Always trust the Print Preview.

Prep

The software work is done. Now we enter the physical domain. This is where 80% of failures occur—not in the software, but in the prep.

Hidden consumables & prep checks (the stuff people forget)

• Needles (The $0.50 Insurance policy): Do not start a 50,000-stitch jacket back with an old needle.
  • Standard: 75/11 Sharp for woven jackets.
  • Ballpoint: 75/11 Ballpoint for hoodies/knits.

• The "Invisible" Supplies:
  • Temporary Spray Adhesive (e.g., 505): Crucial for bonding the jacket to the stabilizer so the middle does not "bubble" during travel.
  • Extended Ruler/Chalk: Mark a vertical center line that runs the entire length of the jacket back, not just the hoop area.
• Thread Logistics: Ensure your bobbins are full. Running out of bobbin thread during a critical heavy satin stitch increases the risk of a "bird's nest" (thread jam).

If you are researching hooping for embroidery machine workflows, remember: the hoop is only as good as the stabilizer you clamp with it.

Decision tree — choose stabilization and workflow for split jacket designs

Use this logic flow to determine your consumable setup:

• Scenario A: Heavy Denim/Canvas Jacket (No Stretch)
  • Stabilizer: 1 layer of Heavy Tear-away + 1 layer of Medium Cutaway (floating).
  • Why: Denim is stable, but high stitch counts can perforate it. The Cutaway adds insurance.
• Scenario B: Performance Fleece / Hoodie (Stretchy)
  • Stabilizer: 2 layers of No-Show Mesh Cutaway (cross-hatched directions) OR 1 layer Heavy Cutaway (2.5oz+).
  • Why: Stretch is the enemy of split designs. If the fabric stretches 1mm between the Top and Bottom section, you will have a gap in the design. Tear-away is forbidden here.
• Scenario C: High Volume Production
  • Workflow: If you struggle to clamp these thick sandwiches, this is the trigger point to upgrade to Magnetic Hoops. They self-adjust to thickness, eliminating the need to unscrew/rescrew the outer ring.

Warning: Magnetic Field Hazard. If upgrading to magnetic hoops, be aware they use powerful Neodymium magnets.
1. Pinch Hazard: They snap together instantly—keep fingers clear.
2. Medical: Keep away from pacemakers (maintain 6-inch distance).

Prep checklist (end-of-section)

• Software: Preferences confirmed (PES + Jumbo + Multi-Pos).
• Hardware: Fresh Needle installed (Type matches fabric).
• Bobbin: Full wind, tension checked (Drop test: hold bobbin case by thread; it should barely drop when jerked).
• Marking: Vertical Center Line marked on garment (12+ inches long).
• Stabilizer: Correct type selected via Decision Tree.

Setup

This section bridges the gap between your computer and the machine.

Set up your file handling so you don’t mix sections

Adhere to a strict naming convention. Confusion creates waste.

• Bad: Dragon_Split.pes (Which half is which?)
• Good: Job123_Dragon_TOP_01.pes and Job123_Dragon_BTM_02.pes

Transfer them to the same folder on the USB or verify they arrived sequentially via wireless transfer.

Set up for repeatable alignment (what matters most)

For split designs, Hoop Consistency is paramount.

• Tension Check (Tactile): Tap the hooped fabric. It should sound like a dull drum (Thump-Thump), not a high-pitched snare (Ping-Ping). Over-tightening causes "hoop burn" and distortion; under-tightening causes registration gaps.

The "Hoop Burn" Issue: If you see crushing marks on delicate polyester jackets, standard hoops are the culprit. Terms like embroidery machine hoops often lead professionals to magnetic solutions because the flat magnetic clamping distributes force evenly, preventing the "crush ring" effect common with plastic hoops.

Setup checklist (end-of-section)

• Files renamed clearly (Top/Bottom).
• Machine needle path cleared.
• Garment hooped with consistent tension (Drum test).
• Excess fabric clipped/managed (prevent drag).

Operation

We are now live. Follow this "Pilot's Checklist" to execute the stitch-out.

Step-by-step (software operation)

1. Environment Check:
   • Confirm Preferences: PES / Jumbo 14x14 / Multi-Position ON.
   • Sensory: Look for the split grid lines.
2. Import & Position:
   • Open Design → Resize → Center.
   • Why: Digital centering matches the physical center mark on your jacket.
3. Execute Split:
   • Utilities → Split Into Hoop.
   • Check: Click Top/Bottom to see the bounding box shift.
4. Verification (Crucial):
   • File → Print Preview.
   • Action: Verify Page 1 is Top, Page 2 is Bottom.

Expected Outcome: Two clean, verified files ready for export.

Operation checklist (end-of-section)

• Multi-Position grid verified visual.
• Center alignment confirmed.
• Split function executed.
• Print Preview passed for both sections.

Quality Checks

Before pressing the green button, perform these final reality checks.

1) Visual split sanity check

In the Objects view on the right sidebar, click the "Top" group. Does it look right? Click "Bottom". Do the colors make sense? If the software split a single object (like a dragon's wing) into two colors arbitrarily, you may need to adjust the split line or edit the nodes manually.

2) Overlap awareness

The instructor notes you may see a small fragment or overlap in Print Preview.

• The Norm: A 1-2mm overlap is often intentional to ensure stitches blend.
• The Red Flag: A 10mm gap or a massive double-stitched area.

3) Stitch-time realism check

Speed Limit: While your machine might do 1000 SPM (Stitches Per Minutes), split designs on heavy jackets are high-risk.

• Beginner Sweet Spot: 600 - 700 SPM.
• Why: Lower speed reduces fabric flagging (bouncing) and improves registration accuracy at the split line.
• Sound Check: The machine should hum rhythmically. If it sounds like a jackhammer, slow down.

Troubleshooting

When things go wrong, use this logic table to diagnose the issue starting from the cheapest fix.

Results

You have now successfully navigated the advanced workflow of splitting a large design in Embrilliance for the Brother PR1055X. By verifying your environment (PES + Multi-Position), centering your art, and using Print Preview as your safety net, you have eliminated the "guessing game."

The Path Forward: If you successfully stitch this jacket, you have unlocked a new tier of capability. However, if you find yourself dreading the physical struggle of hooping heavy garments for multi hooping machine embroidery, listen to that friction. It is often the signal to upgrade your physical tooling (stabilizers, magnetic frames) to match your new software skills. Consistency is the only metric that matters in production.