New Brothread Thread Test on a Brother Innov-is V5: A Repeatable Experiment You Can Trust (and Scale)

The Experiment: Comparing 7 Embroidery Thread Brands

If you have ever bought a "great deal" thread set online only to spend the next three hours fighting with bird nests, shredded fibers, and skipped stitches, you already understand the stakes. Thread is one of the few consumables that acts as a "silent saboteur." It can quietly waste hours of your time while simultaneously degrading the perceived value of your finished embroidery.

In this series, we aren’t just reviewing brands; we are conducting a "stress test" based on empirical evidence. Abbi sets up a controlled comparison across seven popular brands (listed alphabetically to reduce bias): Brothread, Gunold, Gutermann, Madeira, Marathon, Multitalent, and Simthread.

The goal isn’t to crown a single universal winner—because different machines “digest” thread differently. The goal is to teach you how to build a repeatable testing protocol. Once you master this "experiment mindset," you stop guessing whether the problem is the $2 spool of thread or your $10,000 machine. You will know the answer because you controlled the variables.

Setup: Brother Innov-is V5 Settings and Needle Choice

Abbi runs this test on a Brother Innov-is V5. Crucially, she pushes the machine speed to 1050 stitches per minute (SPM).

Expert Insight: Why run it so fast? Many budget threads look flawless at a slow, "safe" speed of 400 SPM. But when you push a machine to 1000+ SPM, friction increases exponentially. The thread heats up as it passes through the needle eye. Weak threads will shred, snap, or fuzz under this thermal stress.

However, for beginners, I recommend a "Sweet Spot" speed of 600–750 SPM. This range offers the best balance between production speed and stitch reliability until you are confident in your materials.

The “controlled variables” that make the test fair

In any scientific test, you must lock down the variables. Abbi’s strict protocol includes:

1. A Fresh Needle: A brand new Prym embroidery needle (No. 75/11) for every brand tested.
2. Bobbin Consistency: A fully filled bobbin for every stitch-out to ensure consistent drag.
3. Substrate Consistency: Identical stabilizer and fabric type for every test.
4. Hygiene: Cleaning the bobbin area before every run.

Why this matters: If you don't clean the bobbin race, a single piece of lint can alter the tension by 10-20 grams, invalidating your test.

The machine parameters Abbi verifies on-screen

On the Brother V5 settings screen, the parameters are locked in:

• Max Embroidery Speed: 1050 SPM (High Stress)
• Embroidery Tension: 00 (Standard/Default)
• Embroidery Foot Height: 1.5 mm

Sensory Check: When threading your machine, pull the thread through the tension discs. It should feel smooth, offering resistance similar to pulling dental floss between your teeth—consistent drag, no jerking.

Warning: High-speed stitching (1000+ SPM) combined with a dull needle is a recipe for disaster. It can cause needle deflection, where the needle bends slightly, hitting the metal throat plate. If you hear a loud "CRACK" or a rhythmic "thump-thump" sound, stop immediately. These are auditory anchors indicating mechanical interference that can damage your hook timing.

Expert note: why “fresh needle + clean bobbin area” changes everything

Micro-burrs on a used needle act like a saw blade against your thread. You cannot see them with the naked eye, but you can feel the result: thread that looks "fuzzy" or snaps repeatedly. In professional production, we change needles every 8 hours of run time. For this test, changing it for every brand removes the needle as a variable.

Why I Chose the Santa Sleigh Test Design

Abbi selected a Santa Sleigh design not for its artistic merit, but for its "forensic" capabilities. A good benchmark design acts as a truth-teller for specific flaws:

• Single-run lines (The Reins): reveal registration accuracy. Does the thread stay crisp, or does it look shaky?
• Satin Stitches (The Sleigh Body): reveal coverage. Look for "railroading"—where you can see the fabric color peeking through the thread lines. This indicates poor thread spread.
• Gradients (The Flowers): reveal blending. Does the thread lay flat enough to blend pink into white seamlessly?
• Small Dots/Details: reveal nesting potential. Tiny movements often cause "bird nesting" underneath the fabric if the thread is too springy.

Design Specs on the V5:

• Width: 56.1 mm
• Height: 71.7 mm
• Stitch Count: 6062

Pro tip: build your own “benchmark design” library

Do not change your test design. If you test Thread A with a flower and Thread B with a font, you learned nothing. Keep a "Control File" on your USB drive. In a commercial setting, run this file after any service or repair to verify your machine is back to factory spec.

First Test: New Brothread (Amazon Best Seller)

The first subject is "New Brothread," a high-volume seller on Amazon. The set includes 40 colors, with each reel holding 500 meters.

Material staging (what’s on the table)

Organization decreases panic. Abbi lays out:

• White cotton/calico fabric squares (medium weight).
• Pre-cut tear-away stabilizer sheets.
• Standard plastic Brother hoop (medium).

Hooping and attaching the frame

This is the single biggest point of failure for beginners. Abbi prepares the hoop and slides it onto the embroidery arm.

The "Hoop Burn" Dilemma: Traditional plastic hoops rely on friction and brute force to hold fabric. To get the fabric tight, you have to tighten the screw and pull. This often leaves "hoop burn"—a crushed ring of fabric fibers that won't iron out. Furthermore, for users doing repeated testing or production runs, the constant screwing and unscrewing leads to significant wrist fatigue.

Sensory Hooping Check: Tap on your hooped fabric. It should sound like a finger tapping on a ripe watermelon or a drum. If it sounds like loose paper, your tension is too loose, and you will get puckering.

The Production Upgrade: If hooping is your bottleneck, professionals move to magnetic systems. A machine embroidery hooping station allows you to align fabric perfectly every time without measuring. Combine this with magnetic embroidery hoops, and you eliminate the "screw-tighten-pull" cycle. The magnets clamp the fabric instantly without crushing the fibers, significantly reducing hoop burn on delicate garments.

Warning: Magnetic hoops are powerful industrial tools. Pinch Hazard: Never let the top and bottom frames snap together without a barrier in between; they can pinch fingers severely. Medical Safety: Keep strong magnets away from pacemakers and sensitive electronics.

Thread loading (what Abbi does—and what to watch)

Abbi loads color 079 (Pink). She notes the thread feels "really thin" compared to others.

Don't let "Feel" fool you: Beginners often panic if thread feels thin, assuming it will break. However, in embroidery, "thin" can be a virtue. Thinner, higher-tensile strength polyester glides through the tension discs with less friction and allows for denser detail without bulking up. Cotton thread feels "thick" but breaks easily. Polyester feels "thin" but is incredibly strong. Trust the stitch-out, not your fingers.

The Looping Risk: Abbi notes that some budget threads effectively have a "looser spin." At 1050 SPM, this can cause the thread to whip around, creating loops that miss the take-up lever. If you see the thread "dancing" wildly between the spool and the first guide, slip a thread net over the spool to control the delivery.

If you are struggling with the time it takes to hoop and un-hoop your samples on a Brother machine, upgrading to a magnetic hoop for brother can cut your prep time by 50%. This is crucial when testing 40+ colors or 7 different brands.

Performance Results: Coverage, Vibrancy, and Feel

Running the stitch-out

Abbi engages the machine. The green light glows, and the needle creates the first lock stitches.

Active Monitoring (The Pilot's Mindset): Do not walk away. Watch the first 60 seconds.

1. Sight: Look at the needle bar. Do you see "fuzz" accumulating? That indicates the thread is shredding.
2. Sound: Listen for the rhythmic chug-chug-chug. A change to a sharp click-click usually means the needle is dulling or hitting a knot.
3. Touch: Gently touch the machine body. Excessive vibration can mean the hoop isn't locked in, or the speed is too high for the table stability.

What Abbi sees in the finished sample

Abbi removes the hoop. The verdict for New Brothread is surprisingly positive for a budget thread.

• Puckering: Minimal. The fabric remained relatively flat.
• Coverage: Good. The pink satin stitches covered the white fabric well.
• Sheen: High. Polyester typically shines more than Rayon or Cotton.

Documentation: She immediately writes "Brothread" on the fabric. Do not skip this. You will forget which sample is which in 10 minutes.

Refining the Workflow: If you find yourself constantly battling fabric slippage or "flagging" (where the fabric bounces up and down with the needle), your hoop is likely the culprit. A standard hoop loses grip as the fabric vibrates. This is where a brother 5x7 magnetic hoop shines—the continuous magnetic force prevents the fabric from creeping inward during dense satin stitching, maintaining higher tension stability than a plastic screw hoop.

Final Verdict on New Brothread for Beginners

Based on this controlled "stress test," New Brothread is a viable option. It handled the 1050 SPM speed on the Brother V5 without breaking, and the coverage was solid. It felt thin, but it performed strong.

However, to replicate these results, you must replicate the discipline. Below are the mandatory checklists to ensure your success.

Prep (Hidden consumables & prep checks)

You cannot cook a Michelin meal with bad ingredients. Gather these "hidden" consumables:

• Temporary Spray Adhesive (505) or Water Soluble Pen for marking.
• Small curved snips (for jump stitches).
• canned air or a brush for the bobbin case.

Prep Checklist (Pre-Flight):

• Needle: Installed a fresh 75/11 Needle (Flat side to the back).
• Bobbin: Inserted a fully filled bobbin (Verify it unspools clockwise/counter-clockwise per machine spec).
• Hygiene: Removed throat plate and dusted the bobbin race.
• Materials: Cut fabric and stabilizer to the exact same size (e.g., 8x8 inches).
• ID: Marking pen is within reach to label the sample immediately.

Setup decision tree: stabilizer + hoop choice

Don't guess. Use this logic flow to determine your setup.

1. What is the fabric structure?

• Stable Woven (Denim/Canvas/Cottons): Use Tear-away stabilizer.
• Unstable/Stretch (T-Shirts/Knits/Performance Wear): You MUST use Cut-away stabilizer. Tear-away will distort and ruin the design.
• Napped (Towels/Velvet): Use Top Heat-away or Water Soluble Topper to prevent stitches sinking.

2. What is the production volume?

• Prototype/One-off: Standard included hoops are acceptable.
• Production run (10+ items): You are at risk of Repetitive Strain Injury (RSI). Upgrade logic applies here.

3. Is "Hoop Burn" a dealbreaker?

• Yes (Delicate fabrics/Customer orders): Grip is vital but crushing is bad. A brother embroidery hoops upgrade to a magnetic system is the industry standard solution.
• No (Testing on scrap): Standard hoops are fine, provided you tighten them correctly.

Setup checkpoints (The "Ready to Fire" Sequence)

Setup Checklist:

• Hoop Security: Lock the hoop lever. Audit: Try to wiggle the hoop. It should have zero play.
• Clearance: Ensure the hoop path is clear of walls, coffee cups, or scissors.
• Speed: Set to "Sweet Spot" (600-750 SPM) for the first test run.
• Threading: Thread passes through the take-up lever eye (the metal arm that goes up and down). Note: This is the #1 cause of bird nesting.
• Foot: Presser foot is down (Green light is on).

Operation: run the stitch-out like a controlled test

If you are doing volume—for instance, embroidering left-chest logos on 50 polo shirts—the time spent unlocking a plastic hoop, re-positioning, and re-tightening adds up to hours of lost profit. In this scenario, integrating a magnetic hooping station is not a luxury; it is a labor cost-reduction tool. It ensures every logo is in the exact same spot without measuring tape.

Operation Checklist:

• Aural Check: Machine sounds smooth, rhythmic.
• Visual Check: Top thread is feeding evenly; no loops dancing at the spool pin.
• Completion: Design finished with zero thread breaks.
• Un-hooping: Fabric removed gently. Sample labeled "Brand X - Speed Y".
• Reset: Bobbin area inspected for fuzz before the next run.

Troubleshooting (Symptom → Likely Cause → Fix)

Comment-driven practical note: “Can I use embroidery thread for regular sewing?”

A viewer asked if embroidery thread (like Simthread) works for regular sewing. The Answer: Generally, yes, but with caveats. Rayon is too weak for structural seams (like pants). Polyester embroidery thread is strong enough for quilting or decorative stitching, but it is "slippery." You may need to adjust your tension. Always test on a scrap piece first.

Tool upgrade path (Strategic capability leveling)

Start with the basics. Master your tension and stabilization.

• Level 1 (Technique): Use the right needle and stabilizer. Clean your machine.
• Level 2 (Workflow): If you struggle with alignment or hoop burn, evaluate a hoopmaster hooping station or a compatible brother 4x4 embroidery hoop with magnetic attachment to speed up the process.
• Level 3 (Scaling): If you are changing threads so often that it eats into your profit, or if you need to sew faster than 1000 SPM reliably, this is the trigger to look at multi-needle machines (like the SEWTECH series).

Results (what to deliver at the end of your test)

At the end of your brand experiment, you should have a physical library of swatches. Do not throw them away. Staple them to a card with the settings written on the back.

• Abbi's Result: New Brothread passed the high-speed (1050 SPM) stress test with good coverage and minimal puckering.

Now, it is your turn. clear your table, change your needle, and run the test. Science is the only way to find the perfect thread for your machine.