How to Transfer Designs from Letter It to Brother PE-700II

Mastering Design Transfer: From "Letter It" to Brother PE-700II

You’ve installed the software. You’ve got the machine. Now comes the moment of truth: getting the idea from your screen to the needle without losing your mind—or your design—in the process.

This isn’t just a tutorial on clicking buttons; it’s a production workflow used by industry veterans. We will break down the exact steps to create a text design in Letter It, save it in the language your Brother machine speaks (.PES), and load it for a flawless stitch-out.

Phase 1: Designing for Success in Letter It

Most beginners think design is just typing. An expert knows that legibility starts here. In embroidery, what looks good on a screen often stitches out as a clump of thread if you aren't careful.

Inputting Multi-line Text

Open the Letter It software. In this workflow, we are creating a three-line stack: “the crafty kraut”.

The "Pre-Flight" Layout Check

Before you even think about saving, perform this sensory check on your screen:

1. Visual Spacing: Look at the gap between lines. If the letters are touching on screen, they will overlap and potentially break needles on fabric. Give them breathing room.
2. Grid Alignment: ensure the text is centered on the grid layout.

Expert Insight: Lettering is the most unforgiving type of embroidery. Unlike a flower where a misaligned stitch blends in, a crooked letter looks like a mistake. If you plan to stitch this on a brother embroidery machine, setting your layout correctly now saves you from fighting the machine later.

Phase 2: The Physical Connection (Computer to Machine)

We are using a direct USB connection. This is often more reliable than thumb drives because you eliminate the "formatted wrong" variable.

Establishing the Link

With the machine powered ON, connect the USB cable to the port on the side of the Brother PE-700II, then plug the other end into your laptop.

Sensory Check: The "Click"

• Tactile: Push the USB cable in firmly. You should feel a distinct resistance and then a "seat." A loose cable is the #1 cause of transfer failures.
• Auditory: Listen for your computer's "device connected" chime.

Warning: Physical Safety
Keep hands, hair, and jewelry away from the needle area when connecting cables. Even though you are in "transfer mode," accidentally bumping the start button or handwheel can cause moving parts to engage. Treat the machine as "live" at all times.

Verifying the Connection

Your computer should recognize the machine as a drive, typically labeled “Removable Disk (F:)” (or another letter).

The "Success Metric": You must see this drive appear in your file explorer. If you don't, stop here. Try a different USB port or cable. You cannot proceed without this bridge.

Phase 3: Saving the File (The "Make or Break" Step)

This is where 90% of beginners fail. They save the file, but the machine is invisible or throws an error. We will navigate the File Format and the Hoop Size Safety Lock.

PRO Rule: The PES Format

You cannot send a JPG or a Word doc to an embroidery machine. You must use .PES format for Brother/Baby Lock machines.

The Workflow: Direct-to-Machine Saving

1. Click File > Save As.
2. Destination: Scroll down and select the Removable Disk (your machine).
3. File Type: Verify it is set to Baby Lock/Brother/Bernina (PES).
4. Name It: Keep the name short (e.g., "Crafty1"). Long names can sometimes glitch on older machine screens.

Troubleshooting the "Design Does Not Fit Hoop" Error

If you click save and get a popup saying the design doesn't fit, do not panic. This is a safety feature.

The Physics of the Error: The software knows your design stitches are outside the "safe zone" of the currently selected hoop. Even if it looks like it fits, the software requires a margin (usually 5-10mm) for the presser foot clearance.

• The Fix: Go to your hoop settings in Letter It.
• The Selection: Choose a larger valid hoop for brother embroidery machine (e.g., 200 mm x 300 mm as shown in the video).
• Result: The software now calculates that the needle won't hit the plastic frame, and allows you to save.

Phase 4: Loading on the Brother PE-700II

The design is now sitting on the machine's hard drive. Let's bring it to the needle.

Navigation Logic

1. Source: Touch the USB/Computer icon on the screen. This tells the machine, "Look at the cable, not the internal memory."
2. Selection: You will see a list of thumbnails. Tap your design.
3. Action: Press the Upload (Pocket) Icon. This moves the file from "storage" to "active stitching memory."

Saving for later

If this is a design you will use often (like a logo), save it to the machine's internal memory so you don't need the laptop next time.

Expert Tip: Newer brother embroidery machines may have slightly different icons (like a wireless symbol), but the logic is identical: Select Source -> Select File -> Load to Memory.

Phase 5: The "Gap" (From Loaded File to Professional Stitch)

The video ends when the file loads. My advice begins here. Loading the file is easy; stitching lettering without puckering is the art.

1. Hidden Consumables Check

Before you press the green button, ensure you have the "Holy Trinity" of lettering:

• Needle: 75/11 Embroidery Needle. (Do not use a Universal needle text; it isn't sharp enough for crisp turns).
• Thread: 40wt Polyester of Rayon.
• Stabilizer: The foundation of your house.

2. Decision Tree: Stabilizer & Hooping

• Are you stitching on a T-shirt/Knit?
  • Must Use: Cut-away stabilizer permanently fused or hooped behind the fabric.
  • Why: Knits stretch. If you use tear-away, the letters will distort into "wavy lines" as the thread pulls the fabric.
• Are you stitching on Towels?
  • Must Use: Water Soluble Topper (Solvy) on top.
  • Why: Without it, your letters will sink into the loops and disappear.

3. Tool Upgrade Path: Solving the "Hoop Burn"

Pain Point: You successfully loaded the design, but trying to hoop your garment straight is a nightmare. You tighten the screw, the fabric slips. You tighten more, and you get "hoop burn" (permanent ring marks on the fabric).

• The Problem: Traditional two-ring hoops rely on friction and brute force.
• The Solution (Level 2 Upgrade): Consider magnetic hoops/frames.
  • Why: They use powerful magnets to clamp fabric flat without forcing it into a ring. This creates even tension instantly and eliminates "hoop burn."
  • Efficiency: If you are doing a run of 10 shirts, magnetic frames reduce hooping time from 2 minutes per shirt to 15 seconds.

Warning: Magnetic Safety
machine embroidery hoops with magnets are industrial-strength.
* Pinch Hazard: Keep fingers clear when snapping them shut.
* implants: Keep at least 6 inches away from pacemakers.
* Electronics: Do not place phones or credit cards directly on the magnets.

Checklist: The "Zero-Fail" Protocol

Print this out and keep it by your machine. Do not skip a step.

Prep Checklist (Mechanical)

• Needle Check: Is the needle fresh? (Run connection: fingernail check for burrs).
• Bobbin: Do you have enough bobbin thread for the full design?
• Cleaning: Remove the needle plate and brush out lint from the bobbin case (lint causes birdnesting).

Setup Checklist (Digital)

• Connection: USB cable fully seated (Tactile "Click" verified).
• Drive: "Removable Disk" visible on PC.
• Format: Saved strictly as .PES.
• Hoop: Software hoop size matches (or exceeds) the design size.

Operation Checklist (The First Stitch)

• Placement: Verify the needle starting position (Trace/Trial key on machine).
• Speed: Beginner Sweet Spot: 600 SPM. (Don't max out the speed on lettering; slower speeds yield crisper edges).
• Sound Check: Listen to the machine. A rhythmic "thump-thump" is good. A clattering "clack-clack" means stop immediately—check your threading.

Troubleshooting Guide (Symptom -> Fix)

Final Thought: The "Experience Curve"

Getting the file onto the machine is your first victory. But remember: the machine does not know if you hooped a t-shirt or a piece of paper. It will stitch exactly what you gave it.

Your next milestone is mastering tension (hooping). If you find yourself fighting the plastic hoops, damaging fabric, or avoiding projects because hooping is "too hard," that is your signal to upgrade your tools to hooping for embroidery machine solutions like magnetic frames. The right tools turn frustration into production.