How To Design & Make Embroidered Earrings - A Step By Step Tutorial

Designing Your Earring Shape in Procreate

If you’ve ever wanted to sell (or gift) embroidered earrings that look clean, symmetrical, and "store-bought," this workflow is one of the fastest paths from idea to finished jewelry. You’ll learn how to draw a simple teardrop on an iPad, convert it to a vector, digitize it as running stitches, stitch it on holographic faux leather/vinyl, and assemble it with jump rings and hooks.

This tutorial is especially useful if you’re moving from Cricut-style SVG thinking into embroidery-file thinking—where stitch order, material stability, and tension matter just as much as the artwork. We aren't just drawing lines; we are engineering a physical object using thread and tension.

What the video does (and what we’ll make)

The video starts with a simple black teardrop outline drawn on an iPad using Procreate. The creator uses guides/symmetry settings to keep the shape perfectly mirrored.

Expert Insight: The Physics of Symmetry in Embroidery Why is symmetry non-negotiable here? In digital art, a 1mm pixel deviation is invisible. In physical embroidery, the "push and pull" of the thread on vinyl magnifies errors. If your base shape isn't mathematically perfect, the tension of the thread will distort the vinyl, resulting in an earring that twists when worn. Your eye catches asymmetry immediately on jewelry because it hangs next to the symmetrical frame of the face.

Pro tip: keep the artwork embroidery-friendly

A clean, high-contrast black outline on a white background is ideal because it vectorizes smoothly later. Avoid textured brushes or gray shading—those often create extra nodes (data points) in the vector.

• The Sensory Check: Zoom in on your vector line. If it looks like a rocky coastline, your machine will sound like a machine gun (stuttering). If it looks like a smooth highway, your machine will hum (smooth stitching).

Converting Sketches to Vectors with Adobe Capture

The video imports the teardrop image into Adobe Capture and lets the app auto-trace it into a smooth vector. Then it saves to the library and exports as an SVG (the creator emails it to themselves to move it from iPad to computer).

Watch out: “auto-trace” can create hidden problems

Auto-trace is fast, but it is “blind.” It doesn't understand embroidery physics. It can:

• Add tiny bumps you don’t notice until stitches look wobbly.
• Create extra points (nodes) that make the running stitch hesitate at corners, causing thread knots.

If your stitch line later looks "shaky" or "drunk," the root cause is often the vector input, not the machine mechanics.

Tool-Upgrade Path: Solving Consistency Issues If you are moving from making one pair for fun to making 50 pairs for a craft fair, consistency is your currency.

• Scenario (The Pain): You find yourself re-tracing designs because the auto-trace was sloppy, or you are throwing away vinyl because the outline didn't close perfectly.
• Judgment Standard: If you are spending more time fixing files than stitching, your process isn't scalable.
• Optional Upgrade: Consistency in the file must be matched by consistency in holding the material. Using professional tools like magnetic embroidery hoops can reduce the physical variables. When the file is perfect, you don't want the hoop to let you down.

Importing and Digitizing in PE-Design 10

Next, the video opens PE-Design 10 and imports the SVG via Import Patterns → from Vector Image. The teardrop appears on the grid, and the creator sizes it to the desired earring dimensions.

Step-by-step: build the stitch objects (exactly as shown)

Embroidery software can be intimidating. Follow these micro-steps to reduce cognitive load:

1. Action: Import the SVG into PE-Design 10.
2. Action: Select the shape and convert it to a Running Stitch.
3. Critical Step: Hide the original imported vector layer by setting it to "Not Sewn". This ensures the machine only reads the thread data, not the image data.

This "Not Sewn" step is the key fix mentioned in the video’s troubleshooting: importing can leave a "ghost" shape that you don’t actually want stitched.

Expert note: stitch order is not just “organization”

In the video, the creator emphasizes checking sewing order so inner details stitch before outer lines. That’s not cosmetic—it’s structural engineering.

• The Principle: Embroidery pushes material around. If you stitch the outer border first, you lock the fabric in place. When you then try to stitch the inside, the material creates a "bubble" because it has nowhere to move.
• The Rule: Always stitch from the center out (or inner details to outer border). This pushes excess material away from the design, keeping the vinyl flat.

If you plan to sell earrings: Stitch order consistency is part of quality control. Two pairs that stitch in different orders can look like they came from different makers due to the light refraction on the thread angles.

Crucial Stitch Settings for Vinyl

The video uses running stitches (not satin) to create a clean outlined look on holographic faux leather/vinyl.

The exact PE-Design running-stitch settings shown

For the stitch that will be on the faux leather/vinyl, precise math prevents ruined material.

Inner Detail Settings:

• Stitch Type: Running Stitch
• Run Pitch (Stitch Length): 2.5 mm
• Run Times (Passes): 2 (A double run gives visibility without bulk).

Outer Outline/Border Settings:

• Run Pitch: 3.0 mm
• Run Times: 1

Why these settings work well on faux leather (material science, in plain English)

Vinyl and faux leather are non-woven synthetics. Unlike cotton, they do not "heal." A needle hole is permanent damage.

• The Perforation Risk: If stitches are too close (e.g., pitch under 1.5mm) or too dense (satin stitch), you are essentially creating a perforated stamp line. When you tear the stabilizer away, you might tear the earring in half.
• The "Double Run" Secret: A single pass of thread can get lost in the texture of potential leather. A double run creates a bolder line that sits on top of the texture, providing that professional, high-contrast look.
• Border Physics: The slightly longer pitch (3.0 mm) on the outer line reduces the number of needle penetrations, keeping the structural integrity of the earring edge strong.

Hidden Quality Lever: If you use soft vinyl, avoid sharp 90-degree corners with these settings. Round the corners slightly in your vector to prevent the needle from hammering the same spot and cutting the vinyl.

Layout for a matching pair in a 4x4 hoop

The video duplicates the grouped design so two earrings fit in the hoop area, creating a pair in one run.

Efficiency Note (Production Mindset): This is the beginning of "batch thinking." If you later move into selling, you will want to fill the entire hoop with 6 or 8 earrings.

• The Upgrade Logic: If you start batching 10+ pairs a day, a single-needle machine requires you to baby-sit every color change. This is the Criterion for considering a multi-needle machine (like SEWTECH), which allows you to set up 6 colors and walk away while it produces inventory.

Hooping and Stitching: The Floating Technique

This is where most beginners either fall in love with vinyl earrings—or rage quit because the material slips. "Floating" means measuring the hoop with stabilizer only, and placing the visible material on top.

The video uses a standard hoop and a floating method:

1. Hoop tear-away stabilizer firmly.
2. Stitch a placement outline on the stabilizer.
3. Lay the holographic vinyl over the placement lines.
4. Tape the edges down with masking/painter’s tape.

Prep (Hidden consumables & prep checks)

Before you touch the hoop, gather the "small stuff." Missing one of these breaks your flow.

• Needle: Size 75/11 or 80/12 Sharp (Ballpoint needles may struggle to pierce vinyl cleanly).
• Thread: 40wt Polyester embroidery thread (Rayon is too weak for jewelry).
• Stabilizer: Medium-weight Tear-away.
• Tape: Painter's tape or embroidery-specific tape (regular scotch tape leaves residue that jams needles).
• Tools: Sharp curved scissors, awl/poking tool, pliers, jump rings, hooks.

Warning: Physical Safety
Scissors and awls can slip easily on slick vinyl surfaces. Always cut away from your body. When using a poker/awl, place the earring on a cork mat or cutting board, never use your hand as backing. A small puncture tool allows for a sudden slip that can cause deep injury.

Prep Checklist (Pre-Flight)

• Vector Clean: Original image set to "Not Sewn" in software.
• Settings Verified: Inner pitch 2.5mm (x2), Outer pitch 3.0mm (x1).
• Bobbin Check: Bobbin is full (running out mid-earring ruins the piece).
• Needle Check: Run your finger down the needle tip. If you feel a burr, replace it immediately. A burr will shred vinyl.
• Material Sizing: Vinyl piece is at least 1 inch larger than the design on all sides for taping.

Setup: hooping stabilizer and making a placement stitch

The video hoops tear-away stabilizer firmly in a 4x4 hoop and runs the first placement stitch directly onto the stabilizer. This placement stitch is your map.

Sensory Check - The "Drum" Test: When your stabilizer is hooped, tap it with your finger. It should sound like a drum (thwack). If it sounds loose (thud) or has wrinkles, re-hoop. Loose stabilizer leads to "registration errors" (where the outline doesn't match the fill).

Tool-Upgrade Path (Addressing the "Tape Struggle"):

• Scenario: You struggle to get the stabilizer drum-tight, or the tape lifts up during high-speed stitching, ruining the design.
• Judgment Standard: If you have stuck your finger with a needle trying to hold vinyl down, or if you waste 20% of your material due to shifting.
• Optional Upgrade: A magnetic hoop for brother machines (or your specific brand) uses high-strength magnets to clamp the material. This allows you to slide the vinyl in and hold it flat without using sticky tape that gums up your needle.

Warning: Magnet Safety
Professional magnetic hoops are powerful. They pose a pinch hazard. Keep fingers clear of the snapping zone. Keep magnets away from pacemakers, credit cards, and computerized machine screens.

Setup Checklist (Ready to Stitch)

• Stabilizer is drum-tight.
• Placement stitch is visible on the stabilizer.
• Vinyl covers the placement lines completely.
• Tape is secure but outside the path of the needle (hitting tape gums up the needle eye).
• Presser foot height is adjusted (if your machine allows) for the thicker vinyl sandwich.

Physics-of-hooping insight (why floating works—and why it sometimes fails)

Floating relies on friction. If the stabilizer is loose, the needle pushes the stabilizer down before piercing it. This creates a "flagging" motion that pulls the vinyl out of alignment.

• The Fix: If you see shifting, tighten the stabilizer first. If shifting persists, the tape isn't enough friction. This is why commercial shops favor magnetic clamping—it applies uniform downward pressure across the whole frame, not just the edges.

Assembly and Finishing Touches

After stitching, the video removes the project from the hoop, tears away the stabilizer, and cuts around the outer stitch line. Then it pierces a hole at the top and attaches jump rings and hooks with pliers.

Machine stitching (as shown)

The video notes a specific machine set change:

• Tension set to 1 while stitching this material.

Expert Calibration (The Safety Buffer): The video suggests "Tension 1" (very loose). Caution: Every machine is calibrated differently.

• Why lower tension? Thick vinyl creates drag. High tension makes the bobbin thread pull to the top (seeing white dots on your black earring).
• The "Sweet Spot": Start your tension at 2.0 - 2.5. Test on a scrap. If you see bobbin thread on top, lower it to 1. If loops form on the bottom, raise it to 3. Do not blindly set to 1 without testing.

Operation: stitch, remove, cut, pierce, assemble

1. Operation: Start the embroidery. Watch the first few stitches to ensure the thread catches.
2. Observation: fast-forward the machine only if the sound is rhythmic. If you hear a "clunk," stop immediately—the needle may be hitting the hoop or tape.
3. Removal: Tear the project gently. Support the stitches with your thumb so you don't distort the vinyl while tearing.
4. Cutting: Use precision scissors. Rotate the material, not the scissors, for a smooth curve.
5. Assembly: Open jump rings by twisting them (north/south), never pulling them apart (east/west). This keeps the metal strong.

Operation Checklist (Post-Stitch)

• Visual Check: No bobbin thread visible on the top side.
• Tactile Check: Run finger over the back—knots are secure, no "bird's nests" (tangles).
• Cutting: A border of 1mm-2mm of vinyl remains outside the stitch line (consistent width).
• Hardware: Jump ring is fully closed (listen for the tiny click or feel the flush ends) so it won't snag hair.

Finishing standards that make earrings look professional

Even though the video keeps finishing simple, here are the pro-level checks:

• Edge consistency: The distance from stitch to cut edge must be identical on both earrings. The eye detects differences instantly.
• Hardware alignment: Ensure the hooks face the back so the nice side of the earring faces forward when worn.

Tool-Upgrade Path (Production Velocity):

• Scenario: You have orders for 20 pairs. Your wrists hurt from constantly hooping stabilizer, tearing it, keying in settings, and re-threading.
• Judgment Standard: If setup time (hooping/threading) > Stitch time.
• Optional Upgrade:
  1. A magnetic hooping station assists in consistent placement, saving your wrists.
  2. Upgrading to a multi-needle machine (like SEWTECH) eliminates re-threading and allows you to hoop the next run while the current one stitches.

Troubleshooting

Use this section like a quick diagnostic: Symptom → Likely Cause → Quick Fix → Prevention.

1) The design includes an extra outline you didn’t want

• Symptom: A rogue line stitches right through your design.
• Likely Cause: The imported vector image data wasn't hidden.

• Prevention: Always check the "Sewing Order" tab; if you see an object that isn't a stitch type, hide it.

2) Vinyl shifts during stitching (misaligned outlines)

• Symptom: The border stitch falls off the vinyl or crosses inner lines.
• Likely Cause: Stabilizer was loose ("flagging") or tape lost adhesion.

• Prevention: Use a tighter hoop method. If you are consistently fighting slip on slick materials, learn how to use magnetic embroidery hoop systems to clamp the material mechanically rather than relying on adhesive.

3) Stitch line looks too thin or “skippy”

• Symptom: The line looks weak, or you see the vinyl color through the thread.
• Likely Cause: Single run used instead of double; thread tension too high.

• Prevention: Always run a test swatch on scrap vinyl before the final product.

4) Material tears when tearing away stabilizer

• Symptom: The vinyl rips or stitches pull out during cleanup.
• Likely Cause: Stitch pitch too short (perforation) or "yanking" the stabilizer.

Results

At the end of the video, you get a finished pair of holographic teardrop earrings: clean running-stitch outlines, carefully cut edges, and simple hardware assembly.

Decision Tree: Choose a holding method for Faux Leather

Use this logic to decide if you need to upgrade your tools or just practice your technique.

1. Are you floating the material (not hooping it directly)?
   • No: You risk hoop burn (permanent ring marks on vinyl). Stop. Start floating.
   • Yes: Proceed to 2.
2. Does your material slip or bubble more than 10% of the time?
   • No: Tape is working for you. Keep going.
   • Yes: Proceed to 3.
3. Is your main bottleneck Quality (slipping) or Speed (sore hands)?
   • Quality: You need better clamping. Consider a floating embroidery hoop (magnetic style) to clamp the sandwich evenly without residue.
   • Speed: You need a workflow upgrade. Consider a hooping station for embroidery to align stabilizer instantly for batch runs.
4. Are you turning down orders because you can't stitch fast enough?
   • Yes: You have outgrown the single-needle hobby machine. Look into SEWTECH multi-needle solutions to automate your color changes and trim time.

Final delivery checklist (The "Sellable" Standard)

Before you gift or sell, pass the item through this filter:

• Symmetry: When held back-to-back, the earrings are identical silhouettes.
• Cleanliness: No sticky residue from tape on the front or back.
• Stitch Integrity: No skipped stitches or loops.
• Hardware: Hooks are hypoallergenic (if promised) and closed securely.

If you can check all these boxes, you have moved from "home crafter" to "embroidery artisan." Start with a simple teardrop, master the tension/stabilizer balance, and then expand into complex shapes.