Hatch Multi-Hooping (Part 1): Split Large Designs for Small Hoops Without Alignment Nightmares

Introduction to Multi-Hooping in Hatch

Multi-hooping is the bridge between "I only have a small hoop" and "I can still stitch that massive design cleanly." It allows owners of 4x4 or 5x7 machines to tackle jacket-back sized projects by splitting a large design into manageable sections (Part 1, Part 2, etc.) that you stitch sequentially.

However, for many beginners, the concept of multi hooping machine embroidery triggers a specific kind of anxiety. You might feel like the software is fighting you—hoops won’t cover the design, the screen won't turn green, or you get the dreaded "not all objects are covered" error message.

This guide acts as your flight manual. We will walk through the exact workflow in Hatch to split a design, add the crucial alignment crosses (registration marks), and export your files. We will also address the physical reality of this process: because no matter how perfect your software file is, if your hooping technique isn't solid, the final stitch-out will have gaps.

What you’ll learn (Part 1: Computer-Side Preparation)

• The "Brick vs. Lego" concept: Why some files split easily while others refuse to separate.
• The "Secret Handshake" setting: The two specific boxes you must check in Hatch to make this work.
• Candidate Selection: How to identify a design that will fail before you waste an hour editing it.
• The "All Green" Goal: How to position hoops to ensure 100% coverage.
• Safety Margins: How to add overlap and registration marks to save you from disaster at the machine.

Warning: Multi-hooping is a precision process. If you rush the planning stage here, you will end up with visible gaps or misaligned joins on your final garment that no amount of trimming can hide.

EMB vs. Stitch Files: Why Object Type Matters

The single biggest source of frustration—"Why won't this split?"—comes down to what Hatch sees when it looks at your file. You need to understand the difference between a "Data" file and a "Picture" file.

The Practical Difference

• Native EMB files (The Lego Set): These are working files. They contain "Object Data." Hatch knows that this circle is a satin stitch and that line is a run stitch. They are easy to pull apart and assign to different hoops because they are individual pieces.
• Stitch files like DST/PES (The Glued Brick): These are machine files. They are essentially a long list of X/Y coordinates. To Hatch, a raw stitch file often looks like one single, solid object.

In the tutorial video, Sue shows a stitch file that imports as one single stitch object. This makes splitting impossible because Hatch cannot cut a single object in half cleanly—it needs meaningful "parts" to distribute across the hoops.

Expert Reality Check: Not Every Design *Should* Be Multi-Hooped

Just because you can split a design doesn't mean you should. A continuous-line mandala or a dense, swirling Celtic knot is a terrible candidate for multi-hooping. These designs rely on unbroken thread paths. If you force a split:

• You create awkward travel stitches (jump stitches) right at the split line.
• Your alignment tolerance drops to zero (even a 0.5mm shift will be visible).
• You disrupt the tension balance of the design.

The Pro Judgment: Look for "Natural Segmentation." Designs with separate words, distinct flowers, or disconnected elements act as natural break points. If you are doing production runs of large, continuous designs, the professional solution isn't software splitting—it's upgrading to a machine with a larger field, like a SEWTECH multi-needle system, which eliminates the risk of re-hooping entirely.

Essential Hatch Settings: Converting Stitches to Objects

If your imported stitch file shows up as one object in the sequence list, you must change how Hatch interprets the data. You need to tell Hatch to "break the brick back into Legos."

Step-by-Step: Change the Stitch Recognition Setting

1. Navigate to the top menu and select Software Settings.
2. Choose Embroidery Settings.
3. Click on the Design tab.
4. Locate the section labeled Recognize stitch file.
5. Critical Action: Change the default from "Leave stitches as individual stitches" to Convert stitches into object shapes.

Checkpoint (Visual)

After applying this setting and re-opening your file, look at the Resequence/Object Sequence list on the right side of the screen. Instead of one icon representing the whole design, you should now see a cascading list of many different objects (colors, shapes, segments). This list proves that Hatch has successfully "exploded" the design into manageable parts.

Why This Matters (The Principle)

Multi-hooping is fundamentally a sorting task. Hatch needs to look at 100 small objects and say, "Objects 1-50 go in Hoop A, and Objects 51-100 go in Hoop B." If the design is just "Object 1," Hatch cannot sort it.

Adding Registration Marks for Alignment

Registration marks are the "alignment stars" or crosses that the machine stitches at the end of Part 1 and the beginning of Part 2. They allow you to align the fabric physically.

Step-by-Step: Enable Registration Marks

1. Return to Embroidery Settings.
2. Click the Multi-hooping tab.
3. Check the box: Add registration marks on output.
4. Set the Margin to Medium. (High margin puts them too far out; Low margin risks stitching over them).

Checkpoint (Auditory/Tactile)

There is no sound here, but later at the machine, these marks act as your "click." When you align Part 2, the needle dropping exactly into the Part 1 mark gives you a visual "lock" that your position is correct.

Warning: If you upgrade to magnetic embroidery hoops to make re-hooping easier, keep these magnets away from pacemakers and ICDs. Also, be extremely careful of the "pinch hazard"—industrial magnets snap together with enough force to bruise fingers or break skin.

Pro Tip: Marks Don't Fix Bad Hooping

Registration marks are only as good as your fabric stability. If you hooped Part 1 loosely and the fabric puckered, the marks will shift. In practice, clean multi-hooping starts with using a stable Cutaway stabilizer (even on stable fabrics) to ensure the "map" you stitch remains accurate.

Case Study: Why Some Designs Fail Multi-Hooping

Sue demonstrates a complex Mandala stitch file (from Creative Kiwi) that refuses to cooperate. This serves as a perfect example of "Software Limitations."

What Happens in Hatch

• You drag hoops over the design, but large chunks remain black (uncovered).
• The design never turns fully green.
• Clicking Calculate Hoopings results in an error: "Object not covered."

The Root Cause Analysis

This specific Mandala is a "Continuous Path" design. Even though we told Hatch to convert stitches to objects, the design is so interconnected that Hatch cannot find a logical place to slice it without breaking the rules of embroidery (like cutting through a satin column).

Symptom → Cause → Fix

Step-by-Step: Splitting the 'Dream Big' Design

Sue switches to a built-in typography design called "Dream Big." This is an ideal candidate because the letters "Dream" and "Big" are distinct, separate objects.

Step 1: Confirm Import Status

Open the design. Check the object list. You should see separate entries for the letters, the stars, and the swirls.

Checkpoint

If it's still one object, close the file, check your settings again, and re-open.

Step 2: Choose Your Hoop Size

Sue selects the Regular (100 x 100) hoop, which is the standard 4x4 size.

If you use a different machine, select your specific frame. For example, if you are strictly limited by a brother 4x4 embroidery hoop, your overlap planning is critical because you have very little "wiggle room" compared to a 5x7 hoop.

Step 3: Add Hoop 2 and Create Overlap

1. Select the Multi-Hooping toolkit.
2. Click Add Hoop.
3. You will see color-coded squares (Red for Hoop 1, Blue for Hoop 2).
4. The Sensory Move: Drag the second hoop until it overlaps the first one like a Venn diagram. Watch the design color.
5. Success Metric: The entire design must turn Green. Green means "Go."

Checkpoint

If any part of the design remains black, it means it is not covered by any hoop. Nudge the hoops closer together.

Why Overlap is Non-Negotiable

Overlap creates a "Safety Buffer." It allows Hatch to place the registration marks in an area that both hoops share. Without overlap, you cannot have registration marks.

Commercial Insight: Re-hooping is physically demanding. You have to take the fabric out, re-mark it, and hoop it again with the exact same tension.

• Trigger: If you are doing this for team shirts (10+ items), your hands will fatigue, and your alignment will drift.
• Criteria: If you struggle to close standard hoops over thick seams or experience "Hoop Burn" (shiny ring marks) on delicate fabrics...
• Option: Upgrade your toolset. An embroidery hooping station ensures the hoop placement is identical every time. Furthermore, Magnetic Hoops eliminate the need to leverage the inner ring into the outer ring—they simply snap shut, preserving your wrists and the fabric.

Exporting Your Split Files for Stitching

Once the screen is Green, you are ready to generate the machine files.

Step-by-Step: Calculate and Save

1. Click Calculate Hoopings.
2. Look for the pop-up: "All objects in the design are covered by hoops."
3. Click Output Design -> Save All Now.

Hatch will automatically split the file and label them (e.g., Design_Part1, Design_Part2).

Checkpoint (Output Verification)

Navigate to your folder. You should see:

1. The .EMB master file.
2. Two (or more) machine files (e.g., .PES or .DST).
3. Crucial: Check the file sizes. If one file is 0kb, something went wrong.

Prep: Hidden Consumables & The "Pre-Flight"

Software success means nothing if your machine setup fails. Before you leave the computer, gather these often-forgotten items:

• Fresh Needle: A bent or dull needle (common after ~8 hours of use) will deflect when hitting the registration marks, causing misalignment.
• Temporary Adhesive Spray (KK100/505): Essential for keeping the stabilizer attached to the fabric during the re-hooping process.
• Water Soluble Pen: For marking the physical crosshairs on your fabric.
• Stabilizer: Do not use Tear-away for multi-hooping unless the fabric is essentially cardboard (like heavy canvas). The act of tearing removal can distort the second half of the design. Use Cutaway.

Professional shops use a dedicated hooping station for embroidery to hold the hoop in the exact same spot while they align the fabric, drastically reducing human error.

Prep Checklist (Software Side)

• Stitch recognition is set to Convert stitches into object shapes.
• Registration marks are enabled (Medium margin).
• Object list shows multiple elements, not one single block.
• Hoop size matches your actual physical hoop (e.g., 100x100).
• The layout is fully Green (100% coverage).
• Files exported as "Part 1" and "Part 2".

Primer (How to choose stabilizer and hooping method for multi-hooping)

Multi-hooping demands stability. You are asking a flexible material (fabric) to easier stay perfectly still while you move it. Here is your decision logic:

Decision Tree: Fabric vs. Strategy

1) Is the fabric stable (Canvas, Denim, Heavy Twill)?

• Strategy: Medium Cutaway (preferred) or Heavy Tear-away. Standard hoops are fine.

2) Is the fabric stretchy or thin (T-shirts, Performance Knits)?

• Strategy: Float Method Required. Hoop the stabilizer (Fusible Cutaway) and float the garment. Or, use a Magnetic Hoop to clamp the fabric without stretching it.
• Why: If you stretch the fabric in Hoop 1 but not in Hoop 2, the design halves won't match.

3) Is the surface textured (Towels, Fleece, Velvet)?

• Strategy: You must use a Water Soluble Topper to keep stitches from sinking.
• Hooping: Standard hoops leave "Hoop Burn" on velvet/fleece that is permanent. This is the primary use case for hooping for embroidery machine using magnetic frames, which hold gently without crushing the fibers.

Setup (What to verify in Hatch before stitching)

Before you transfer files to the USB drive, do a final "Sanity Check."

Setup Checks

• Hoop Size verification: Did you select the generic 100x100, or the specific brother embroidery hoops sizes for your machine? A generic hoop might define the stitch field slightly differently than your machine's firmware limits.
• Visual Logic: Zoom in on the split line. Does it cut through a letter? (Bad). Does it cut between letters? (Good).
• Density: If you resized the design in Hatch, check the density. Multi-hooping a design that is too dense will cause the fabric to "push" and result in gaps at the join.

Setup Checklist (In Hatch)

• Hoops overlap enough to contain registration marks comfortably.
• No split lines run through satin columns or small lettering.
• "Calculate Hoopings" returned a Success message.
• You have verified the stitch order (Part 1 stitches first).

Operation (How to think about the stitch-out you’re about to do)

You are now the operator. The software has done its job; the rest is precision mechanics.

The Mental Model

Treat this like a construction project. Part 1 lays the foundation. The registration marks are your survey stakes. Part 2 builds the house.

If you find yourself enjoying the result but hating the process of re-hooping, resizing, and aligning, you have hit the ceiling of single-hoop limitations. This is the natural trigger point where hobbyists become "Prosumers."

• The Problem: Limited field size forces risky multi-hooping.
• The Upgrade: Investing in larger hoops for embroidery machines (like the large magnetic frames available for multi-needle machines) or upgrading to a SEWTECH multi-needle machine with a large stitch field (e.g., 12x8 or larger). This allows you to stitch the "Dream Big" design in one pass, faster, and with zero alignment risk.

Warning: Needle Safety. When multi-hooping, you are often handling the fabric near the needle bar to keep the excess bulk out of the way. Keep your fingers clear. Do not hold the excess fabric while the machine is running at 800 SPM.

Operation Checklist (At the Machine)

• Printed template is cut out and ready for visual placement layout.
• File Part 1 and Part 2 are loaded.
• Bobbin is full (Running out of bobbin in the middle of a registration mark is a nightmare).
• Fabric is marked with a water-soluble crosshair.

Quality Checks (What “good” looks like)

How do you know if you succeeded?

• The Join: There should be no visible gap or overlap where Part 1 ends and Part 2 begins.
• The Marks: The registration marks for Part 2 should land exactly on top of the stitched marks from Part 1.
• The Fabric: The fabric should not be puckered between the two design halves.

If accuracy is a struggle, adopting a standardized embroidery hooping system (hooping station + magnetic frames) creates a repeatable mechanical advantage that human hands can't match.

Troubleshooting

1) Hoops won't turn Green / Design won't split

• Symptom: You drag the hoop over the object, but it stays black.
• Likely Cause: Hatch sees the design as one giant "Stitch Block."

2) "Not all objects are covered" Error

• Symptom: You click Calculate, and Hatch refuses to export.
• Likely Cause: There is a tiny element (like a period or a star tip) hanging 1mm outside the hoop line, or inside the "dead zone" between hoops.

3) The "Gap" (Physical alignment failure)

• Symptom: The file looked perfect in Hatch, but there is a 2mm gap on the shirt.
• Likely Cause: Physical Stabilizer failure. The fabric shifted or stretched during re-hooping.

4) Hoop Burn (Permanent rings on fabric)

• Symptom: A shiny, crushed ring where the hoop held the fabric.
• Likely Cause: Excessive pressure on delicate pile (velvet/fleece).

Results

You have now mastered the digital side of multi-hooping in Hatch:

1. Preparation: You know how to convert "StitchBricks" into "Object Legos."
2. Setup: You've enabled registration marks and overlap.
3. Planning: You know how to spot a "bad candidate" design before wasting time.
4. Export: You have clean Part 1 / Part 2 files.

This software workflow is your blueprint. The next step is taking this blueprint to the machine, where patience, the right stabilizer, and perhaps a better hooping toolset will determine your success.