Hatch Auto Fabric, Demystified: Build a Custom Pique Profile (and Stop Re-Setting Everything Every Time)

What is Auto Fabric in Hatch?

Auto Fabric in Hatch is not just a dropdown menu; think of it as your Digital Recipe Card or a "starting point engine" for digitizing. In the physical kitchen, you wouldn't bake a cake at the same temperature you roast a chicken. Similarly, in embroidery, you cannot stitch on a fluffy towel with the same settings you use for a stiff denim jacket.

When you select a fabric type in Hatch, the software pre-loads a bundle of critical stitch behavior settings—specifically stitch density, underlay types, and compensation for push/pull distortion. In the video, Sue from OML Embroidery frames this as a template system. It saves you from the "blank canvas paralysis" where you have to rebuild technical choices for fills, satins, and lettering from scratch every time you open a new design.

The Expert Takeaway: Auto Fabric is a system you must customize. Default settings are "safe averages," but they don't know your specific brand of Pique, your thread weight, or your hooping technique. By creating your own profile, you "lock in" your wins. When you finally get that perfect stitch-out on a tricky polo, saving it as a profile guarantees you can repeat that success next month without guessing.

Why You Need Custom Fabric Profiles

If you digitize and stitch regularly, the hidden enemy of profit and joy is inconsistency. We have all been there: One day you remember to increase pull compensation to 0.30mm; the next day you forget, leave it at 0.17mm, and your outlines show gaps (gapping). One design looks crisp; the next looks "mushy" or sinks into the fabric.

Custom Auto Fabric profiles solve this by turning your best practices into a reusable baseline. It removes the memory burden.

Sue’s example focuses on a Pique Knit shirt (standard polo material). Pique is notoriously tricky for beginners because it is stretchy and textured (the "waffle" surface). Stitches love to get lost in the valleys of the texture. She wants a Pique-based profile that she can tweak to match reality, then reuse.

This is also the answer for the common frustration: "How do I know what to set for hats? Some hats stitch perfectly, others are a disaster." Hats vary wildly—from unstructured "dad hats" to rigid buckram-backed caps. If you leave Auto Fabric on "Cotton," you are asking for needle breaks and bird nests. The method below allows you to clone a base profile (like Denim or Heavy Canvas) and tune it until your test stitch-out is bulletproof.

Commercial Reality Check: If your workflow includes frequent hooping, your software settings are only half the battle. A perfect software profile cannot fix a loose hoop job. The fabric must be "drum-tight" (sounding like a gentle thump when tapped). If you are fighting shifting knits or the dreaded "hoop burn" (shiny rings left on fabric), understanding proper hooping for embroidery machine techniques is part of the same "consistency system." You cannot fix physical motion with software compensation alone.

Step-by-Step: Creating a Custom Pique Profile

This walkthrough follows Sue’s process but adds the "Sensory Checks" you need to ensure you are doing it right.

Step 1 — Open the Auto Fabric manager

To access the "brain" of your fabric settings, go to the top menu bar in Hatch:

1. Click Software Settings.
2. Select Manage Auto Fabrics.

This opens the management window where you can browse the generic factory options (Jersey, Fleece, Pure Cotton, etc.).

Step 2 — Create a new profile based on an existing fabric

Never start from zero. It is safer to modify a neighbor than to invent a stranger.

1. Click the Create… button.
2. Name the new profile: Custom Pique. (Be specific! "My Fav Polo" is better than "New Fabric").
3. In the Based on dropdown, choose Pique.
4. Click OK.

This "clone and customize" approach provides a safety net. You trigger the software's default knowledge for knitwear (stretch management) and refine it from there.

Step 3 — Adjust Tatami / Embossed Fill settings

These settings control large blocks of color (fills). On Pique, if stitches are too short or too sparse, they sink into the fabric holes.

In the Fabric Settings window, go to the Tatami / Embossed Fill tab. Target Settings (The Sweet Spot):

• Stitch Length: 4.00 mm (Standard is often 3.5mm-4.0mm. Longer stitches sit on top of the texture better).
• Spacing: 0.40 mm (This is density. 0.40mm is a safe standard. If you go lower, like 0.35mm, you risk stiff "bulletproof" patches; higher, like 0.45mm, you might see fabric showing through).
• Underlay Type: Edge Run + Tatami.

The "Why": The Edge Run creates a "rail" for the stitches to grip, preventing the edges from sawing inwards. The full Tatami underlay acts as a floor, smoothing out the waffle texture so your top stitches look flat and shiny.

Step 4 — Configure Satin settings (and verify pull compensation)

Switch to the Satin tab. These settings control your borders, text, and columns. This is where clarity lives.

Target Settings:

• Auto Spacing: 90% (This adjusts density dynamically based on width).
• Underlay Type: Edge Run + Zigzag (Crucial for structural integrity).
• Pull Compensation: 0.20 mm.

The Sensory Check: Pull compensation adds "fatness" to the column. Imagine wrapping a rubber band around a sponge (fabric); the sponge squeezes in. Pull comp makes the rubber band wider so that when it squeezes, it ends up at the correct size.

• 0.17mm - 0.20mm is the beginner safe zone for Pique.
• Success Metric: Your satin column edges should look straight, like a ruler, not jagged or sinking into the fabric pits.

Step 5 — Save stabilizer recommendations inside the profile

Go to the Stabilizer tab. You will see a blank text field. Do not ignore this. In a busy shop (or a chaotic hobby room), you will forget which stabilizer worked best last month.

Sue recommends typing clear instructions:

• “Tear Away x 2” (or specifically "No-Show Mesh Poly" for softer feel).
• “Use Cutaway” (Standard for knits to prevent holes).
  
  Pro tip

  Treat this as a production instruction card. If you hand this file to someone else, this note tells them exactly how to prep the physical garment.

Step 6 — Confirm the new profile appears in the list

Exit back to the manager window. Scroll through the list and verify Custom Pique is present. Action: Click it once to ensure all your changes stuck. Now it is ready for deployment.

Deep Dive: Adjusting Pull Compensation and Underlay

The video shows where to click, but here is the "physics" lesson on why these two settings save you from ruined garments.

Why underlay is your fabric-control system

Think of Underlay as the foundation of a house. If you build a house on swampy ground (textured Pique or Fleece) without a foundation, it sinks.

• No Underlay: Stitches sink, fabric shows through, edges look ragged.
• Proper Underlay: It tamps down the "fur" or texture of the fabric, providing a smooth stage for the top thread.

For Pique:

• Edge Run: Pins the fabric down at the perimeter. This stops the design from shrinking inward.
• Zigzag/Tatami: Flattens the hills and valleys of the fabric weave.

Why pull compensation matters (especially for clean satin edges)

Embroidery is a tension battle. The thread is pulling in, the hoop is pulling out. On Pique (which stretches), the thread usually wins, pulling the fabric inward and making your columns narrow.

• The Adjustment: Setting Pull Comp to 0.20 mm tells Hatch: "Digitize this column 0.20mm wider on both sides than it looks on screen."
• The Result: When it stitches and pulls tight, it shrinks back to the exact intended width.

Warning: Don't treat pull compensation as a "Boldness Slider." If you crank it up to 0.40mm without testing, you risk distortion. The stitches can start overlapping awkwardly, creating hard ridges that feel like plastic. Always test changes in 0.05mm increments.

Comment-driven reality check: hats and “mystery materials”

Viewers asked about hats and Neoprene. The Auto Fabric principle remains: Clone -> Test -> Refine.

• Hats: Clone "Heavy Canvas" or "Denim." Hats require Center Run underlay often to lock the puff to the cap.
• Neoprene: Clone "Fleece" (similar thickness/squish).

Critical Equipment Note: For caps, software settings are irrelevant if the hat is flagging (bouncing) in the hoop. A stable cap frame is mandatory. Many professionals upgrade their kit with a specific cap hoop for embroidery machine designed to lock the bill in place, or even migrate to multi-needle machines (SEWTECH brand, for example) which are physically built for the cylindrical stitching required for hats.

Saving Stabilizer Notes for Future Projects

Sue demonstrates typing "Tear Away x 2" into the notes. Let's make this actionable for you.

Hidden consumables & prep checks (what experienced shops don’t skip)

The software assumes a perfect machine. In reality, you need physical support. Before running your new Custom Pique profile, gather these Hidden Consumables:

• Ballpoint Needles (75/11): Sharp needles can cut the knit fibers of Pique, creating holes. Ballpoints slide between them.
• Temporary Spray Adhesive (505): To bond the fabric to the stabilizer. Pique loves to slide; glue stops it.
• Water Soluble Topping: If your Pique texture is very deep, a layer of Solvy on top keeps stitches even higher.

The Hooping Variable: If you struggle to hoop consistently perfectly tight without stretching the fabric (which distorts the design when unhooped), you are fighting a losing battle. Many studios solve this by using standardized hooping stations which act as a "third hand," ensuring the garment is loaded with the same tension every single time.

Prep Checklist (use before you trust a new profile)

• Identify Fabric: Confirm this is actually Pique (honeycomb texture) and not Jersey (T-shirt smooth knit).
• Select Needle: Ensure a Ballpoint 75/11 is installed. Check for burrs by running the tip over a fingernail.
• Stabilizer Note: Did you type "Cutaway" (Production standard) or "Tearaway" (Sue's preference)? Ensure you have the physical roll.
• Thread Tension: Pull the top thread. It should offer resistance similar to flossing your teeth. If it falls out, re-thread.
• Test Design: Prepare a small file (2-inch square) with a letter and a fill block to test the profile.

Primer (How to apply this in a real workflow)

The workflow is circular, not linear. It is an iterative loop of improvement.

1. Select Profile: Open design -> Apply Auto Fabric "Custom Pique".
2. Verify: Watch the stitch count change. (It should go up slightly due to the robust underlay).
3. Physical Test: Hoop a scrap of the actual garment (not a different fabric).
4. Audit: Look at the result. Is the coverage good? Are edges crisp?
5. Refine: If the edges are jagged, go back to Auto Fabric Settings -> Satin -> Increase Pull Comp to 0.25mm. Save.

This loop turns "lucky guesses" into "Standard Operating Procedures (SOPs)."

Setup (Make the profile usable across projects)

Name profiles like a production shop, not like a hobbyist

"Custom Pique" is good. "SOP-Polo-Cutaway" is better. It tells you the Fabric, the Garment, and the Stabilizer in the title.

• Bad Name: "New Settings 2"
• Good Name: "Jersey Tee-NoShowMesh"

Decision Tree: Fabric → Stabilizer note to save in Hatch

Use this logic tree to populate your Stabilizer Tab notes:

START: What is the fabric texture?

1. Lightweight / Unstable (T-shirt, Jersey)
   • Action: Use Cutaway Stabilizer (Mesh or 2.5oz).
   • Reason: T-shirts will shred with tearaway.
   • Hatch Note: "Use Fusible Mesh Cutaway."
2. Medium Weight / Textured (Pique Polo)
   • Action: Cutaway is industry standard for longevity, but Tearaway x2 (Sue's method) offers a softer interior if coverage is light.
   • Hatch Note: "Test: 2 layers Tearaway vs 1 layer Cutaway."
3. Heavy / Stable (Denim, Canvas)
   • Action: Tearaway.
   • Hatch Note: "Medium Tearaway."

The Hoop Burn Problem: Even with the right stabilizer, stiff traditional hoops can leave permanent "burn" marks on delicate performance Pique. This is a common trigger for upgrading tools. Many professionals switch to magnetic embroidery hoops at this stage. These clamp the fabric firmly without the friction-burn of jamming an inner ring into an outer ring—preserving the garment quality while speeding up the hooping process significantly.

Setup Checklist (before you roll this out to client work)

• Profile Verification: Does "Custom Pique" appear in your list?
• Fill Tech Check: Confirm Tatami Length is 4.00mm (or your refined value).
• Satin Tech Check: Confirm Pull Comp is at least 0.20mm.
• Stabilizer Note: Is the text field filled out?
• First Article Inspection: Run one test on scrap material.

Operation (Using the profile without creating new problems)

Step-by-step checkpoints while you digitize

Just because the profile is saved doesn't mean you can stitch with your eyes closed.

1. Load Design: Apply the profile.
2. Visual Check: Zoom in to 600%. Look at the underlay (turn off "Show Stitches" or press T to see connectors/underlay in some views). Do you see the Edge Run rail?
3. The "Squish" Check: If you added 0.40mm pull comp, do the letters now touch each other? If so, increase kerning (letter spacing).

Production-minded efficiency tip

Sue correctly identifies that applying the profile is a massive time-saver. It applies 20+ variable changes in one click. However, if your bottleneck moves from the computer to the machine, look at your hardware. If you are spending 5 minutes hooping and 5 minutes stitching, your machine is idle 50% of the time.

• Level 1 Fix: Buy extra hoops to prep the next garment while the first one stitches.
• Level 2 Fix: Use a dedicated hooping station for embroidery to align shirts in 30 seconds.
• Level 3 Fix: If you are doing volume (50+ shirts), this is the criteria for moving to a multi-needle machine (like SEWTECH). You can load the next color or hoop the next cap while the machine works, doubling output.

Magnet Safety Warning: If you upgrade to magnetic hoops, handle with extreme care. These utilize industrial-strength magnets (N52 usually). They can pinch fingers severely if the rings snap together uncontrolled. Keep them away from pacemakers, delicate electronics, and credit cards. Always slide them apart; never try to pry them directly up.

Operation Checklist (run this every time you start a new fabric run)

• Select Profile: Ensure you didn't leave it on "Cotton" default.
• Underlay Check: Does the software show Edge Run + Zigzag for satins?
• Consumable Check: Read your own Stabilizer note. Do you have that backing?
• Needle Check: Is the needle fresh? (Replace every 8 hours of stitching for best results).
• Hoop Check: Is the fabric drum-tight?

Quality Checks (What “good” looks like)

You ran the test. How do you judge it? Use your senses.

• Visual (Edge Clarity): Look at a satin column. Are the edges straight lines? Or do they look like a "sawtooth" or "postage stamp"? Sawtooth edges mean increase Pull Compensation.
• Tactile (Bulletproof Vest Effect): Rub your thumb over the fill. Is it stiff as a board? Decrease density (increase spacing from 0.40 to 0.45mm).
• Auditory (Machine Sound): A happy machine hums. A machine fighting through too much density or adhesive buildup makes a "thump-thump" sound.
• The "Sink" Test: Can you see the fabric color peeking through the stitches? Your stitch angle might be aligning with the fabric grain (bad), or your density is too low (Auto Spacing needs to go from 90% to 85%).

Generally, if you see distortion where the circle isn't round, the cause is often Hooping, not software. If you cannot master the "hand strength" required for tight hooping, learning how to use magnetic embroidery hoop systems can bypass the physical strength requirement, using magnetic force to hold fabric evenly without distortion.

Troubleshooting

Problem: You can’t find the fabric you need in the default list

• Symptom: You are stitching on Spandex or Neoprene, and Hatch has no listing.
• Likely Cause: Hatch provides generic baselines, not an exhaustive library.

Problem: Hats stitch poorly when you leave Auto Fabric on cotton

• Symptom: Thread breaks, needle breaks, or the design is physically crooked.
• Likely Cause: Hats are curved and rigid (buckram). They flag (bounce) needle deflection.
• Fix:
  1. Software: Create a "Cap Profile" with Center Run underlay (stitches form from center out) to push the fabric wave away.
  2. Hardware: If you are using a flatbed machine, you are fighting physics. Ensure you have a specialized hat hoop for brother embroidery machine (or your specific brand) that flattens the bill area. If volume is high, this is the trigger to consider a multi-needle machine with a cylindrical arm driver.

Problem: You’re unsure what to set for neoprene

• Symptom: Stitches are burying themselves; the embroidery feels hard.
• Likely Cause: Neoprene is spongy. The thread tightens and slices into the foam.

Safety Warning: When troubleshooting, never put your hands near the needle bar while the machine is live. If a needle hits a hoop rim (common during testing new parameters), it can shatter. Protective eyewear is recommended for beginners.

Results

By following Sue’s workflow and adding these safety protocols, you transform "Auto Fabric" from a simple preset menu into a robust production asset. You end up with a Custom Pique profile that:

• Lives inside Hatch’s Manage Auto Fabrics.
• Remembers your 4.00mm Tatami and 0.20mm Pull Comp settings.
• Reminds you to grab the Tearaway/Cutaway stabilizer.

This reduces the "Fear of Starting." You know the settings worked last time, so they will work this time.

The Growth Path: Mastering software profiles is the first step to scaling.

1. Software Consistency: (This Guide) -> Eliminates digitization errors.
2. Hooping Consistency: (Magnetic Hoops) -> Eliminates hoop burn and crooked loading.
3. Production Consistency: (Multi-Needle Machines like SEWTECH) -> Eliminates thread change downtime and handles caps/tubular items professionally.

Start with the profile today. Save your first success. Your future self will thank you.