Easy In The Hoop Koala Tea Time Mug Rug Tutorial

Supplies for Your Koala Mug Rug

This project is a fast, satisfying in-the-hoop (ITH) build with a twist: it’s a larger 6x10 mug rug (many possess a standard 5x7 footprint), and it uses layered fabrics plus appliqué—including a raw-edge lettering technique that gives a distinct "scrappy/rag" aesthetic.

You will be stitching a design that contains over 20,000 stitches. This density changes the physics of embroidery. It means your material choices matter significantly more than usual: stability, trim-ability, and how the layers behave when you eventually turn the project right-side-out.

Choosing Fabrics and Stabilizers

To replicate the success shown in the tutorial, we must understand the "why" behind every layer. Embroidery is a battle against physics—specifically, the pull of the thread against the fabric.

The "Safe" Material Manifest:

• Stabilizer: Two layers of tear-away stabilizer.
  • Expert Lens: Why two? A 20k stitch count creates significant "pull." A single layer of standard tear-away often perforates and separates before the design is finished, leading to catastrophic alignment errors. Two layers provide a "plywood-like" stability.
• Batting Substitute: Craft Felt.
  • Expert Lens: Batting is lofty and soft, but it is notorious for shifting in the hoop and being difficult to trim cleanly. Felt is dense, stable, and holds stitches beautifully without sinking. For beginners, felt is the "cheat code" for flat mug rugs.
• Top Fabric: Vintage cotton fabric backed with Fusible Iron-on Stabilizer.
  • Expert Lens: Vintage or thin quilting cottons are unstable. By ironing a fusible mesh (like Shape-Flex) to the back, you essentially turn a flimsy fabric into a stable canvas that won't pucker under satin stitching.
• Appliqué Fabrics: Flannel (for the Koala body) and Scrap Cotton (for the cup/letters).

Tool-Upgrade Path: Solving the Hooping Struggle Hooping a stack of Stabilizer + Felt + Fabric + Fusible without wrinkles is physically difficult. It requires significant hand strength and dexterity.

• The Pain Point: If your wrists hurt from tightening screws, or if you see "hoop burn" (permanent creases) on your vintage fabric.
• The Criteria: If you plan to make sets of these as gifts or for sale (production runs).
• The Solution: This is the classic scenario to upgrade to a Magnetic Hoop. Unlike traditional rings that rely on friction and screws, magnetic frames clamp straight down. They handle thick sandwiches (like felt) without distortion. If you are researching options for your machine, you might start by looking for magnetic hoops for brother luminaire to see how these frames can reduce hooping time from minutes to seconds.

Warning: Mechanical Safety. Keep fingers, scissors, and loose thread tails at least 4 inches away from the needle bar while the machine is running. 20,000 stitches means ~20 minutes of run time; do not become complacent.

Bobbin Thread Selection

The tutorial utilizes Simthread 90 weight embroidery bobbin thread. The industry standard is typically 60wt.

Why 90wt? In dense ITH projects, every millimeter of thickness counts. A 90wt thread is finer than 60wt, which reduces the "bulk" on the underside of the mug rug. This makes the final step—turning the project right-side out—slightly easier and reduces the ridge at the seams.

Sensory Check:

• Visual: Flip your hoop after the first few minutes. You should see about 1/3 white bobbin thread running down the center of your satin columns.
• Tactile: The bobbin case should not feel hot.

Machine Prep and Hooping

Hooping Tear-Away Stabilizer

Because the design is heavy (20,000+ stitches), the "Foundation Rule" applies: If in doubt, double up.

The Hooping Protocol:

1. Cut two sheets of tear-away stabilizer large enough to extend 2 inches past the hoop edges on all sides.
2. Align them perfectly; they must act as one unit.
3. Loosen your hoop screw significantly.
4. Press the inner ring into the outer ring.
5. Sensory Check: Tighten the screw. Tap the stabilizer with your fingernail. It should sound like a drum skin (thrum-thrum). If it sounds loose or paper-like, re-hoop. Loose stabilizer guarantees puckering.

Tool-Upgrade Path: Accuracy and Speed If you find that your design is constantly crooked despite your best efforts, the issue is often the "float" method or manual alignment.

• The Solution: An upgrade to a specialized station. Experienced embroiderers often research hooping stations to ensure that every layer aligns perfectly to the same grid, eliminating the "did I hoop this straight?" anxiety.

Machine Setup on Brother Luminaire

The project is demonstrated on a Brother Luminaire, a high-end machine capable of precise positioning. However, the physics remain the same for any machine.

Pre-Flight Protocol:

• Needle: Insert a fresh Size 75/11 or 90/14 Embroidery Needle. (A dull needle will push the felt down rather than piercing it).
• Bobbin: Clean the bobbin area. Remove any lint. Insert the 90wt bobbin.
• Threads: Have your colors lined up in order to minimize downtime.

Hidden Consumables Checklist:

• New Needle (Titanium coated recommended for felt).
• Temporary Spray Adhesive (Optional, but helps hold felt to stabilizer).
• Curved Appliqué Scissors (Crucial/Non-negotiable).
• Masking Tape / Painters Tape (To secure loose fabric edges).

Decision Tree: Stabilizer & Base Layer Strategy

Use this logic to determine your setup for this specific style of project.

• Is the design density > 15,000 stitches?
  • YES: Use 2 Layers of stabilizer (Medium Weight Tear-away).
  • NO: 1 Layer might suffice, but 2 is safer.
• Is the top fabric "stretchy" or "unstable" (Knits, thin vintage cotton)?
  • YES: Apply Fusible Mesh (Iron-on) to the back of the fabric FIRST.
  • NO: Standard cotton may be fine, but starching is recommended.
• Do you want a "Quilt" feel or a "Coaster" feel?
  • QUILT FEEL: Use cotton batting (Harder to hoop/turn).
  • COASTER FEEL: Use dense Craft Felt (Easier to hoop, sharper corners).

Warning: Magnet Safety. If you opt for magnetic hoops to solve thickness issues, be aware they use powerful Neodymium magnets. They can pinch fingers severely. Keep them away from pacemakers, credit cards, and computerized machine screens.

Step-by-Step Applique Process

We do not just "sew" an ITH project; we manage it. Treat every stop as a quality control checkpoint.

Placement and Tackdown Stitches

Step 1 — Hoop Prep and Placement

• Action: Load the hoop (10 5/8" x 10 5/8" or similar).
• Run: Stitch Color 1 (Placement Line) directly onto the stabilizer.
• Check: Ensure the stitching is continuous and visible.

Step 2 — Secure Base Fabrics

• Action: Cover the placement lines with your Felt layer. Then, place your Vintage Fabric (fused side down) on top of the felt.
• Sensory Check: Smooth it with your hands. There should be zero ripples. Usually, you "float" these layers (don't hoop them, just lay them on top).
• Run: The Tackdown Stitch.
• Failure Prevention: Keep your hands on the outer edges of the fabric (far from the needle) to keep it taut while it stitches the first few corners.

Step 3 — Quilting Stitch

• Run: The decorative quilting fill.
• Observation: This is the stress test. If your fabric waves or bubbles here, your stabilizer was too loose.

Trimming Applique Fabric with Curved Scissors

Step 4 — Appliqué Cup Placement & Tack

• Run: Cup Placement Line.
• Action: Place scrap fabric over the cup outline.
• Run: Cup Tackdown.
• The Crucial Skill: Trimming.
  • Stop the machine. Remove the hoop (or slide it forward).
  • Lift the excess fabric flap.
  • Slide your Curved Appliqué Scissors parallel to the stitch.
  • Cut: Trim as close as possible (1-2mm) without snipping the knot.

Step 5 — Appliqué Koala Placement & Tack

• Repeat: Placement line -> Place Flannel -> Tackdown.
• Expert Note: Flannel produces lint. After trimming the koala, us a piece of tape to pick up loose fuzz from the bobbin area/plate to prevent it from getting stitched into the next layer.

Step 6 — Satin Stitching & Details

• Run: The machine will now execute the satin borders and facial details.
• Listen: Satin stitching on felt + flannel makes a distinct, heavy thump-thump sound. If thump changes to clack or a grinding noise, STOP immediately. You may have bent a needle on the thickness.

Creating Raw Edge Lettering

This technique deviates from standard appliqué. We are intentionally leaving a ragged edge for texture.

Step 7 — Raw Edge Letter Appliqué

• Run: The machine stitches the letter outlines (Black thread).
• Action: Reverse the machine (or select previous step) to run the outline again.
• Place: Lay your letter fabric over the text area.
• Run: Stitch the outline again to secure the fabric.
• Trim: This is the artistic part. Do NOT trim close. Leave a 2mm to 3mm margin.
• Texture: Rub the raw edges with your thumb or a stiff brush to fray them slightly.

Tool-Upgrade Path: Workflow Efficiency Appliqué involves constant stopping, removing the hoop, trimming, and re-attaching. This puts wear on your machine's attachment mechanism and your wrists.

• The Solution: Many production embroiderers switch to Magnetic Hoops because they are often easier to slide on and off the machine arm without fierce latching mechanisms. If you are searching for this efficiency, look for magnetic embroidery hoops compatible with your specific machine arm width.

Assembly and Finishing Hacks

Adding the Backing Fabric

Step 8 — Add Backing Fabric (Turn-Style Construction)

• The Critical Pivot: Up to now, all fabric has been face up.
• Action: Take your backing fabric. Place it Right Side Down ("Pretty side touching the Koala").
• Run: The final seam stitch.
• Check: Ensure the backing covers the entire design perimeter.

Warning: Design-Specific Alert. The video tutorial explicitly advises to skip the "star" step in this specific Ohana Appliqué file. In ITH designs, the final steps are often "project codes" or alignment markers that should not be stitched. Always read the PDF guide that comes with your purchased file.

Turning and Pushing Out Corners

Step 9 — Trim and Turn

• Action: Un-hoop. Tear away the excess stabilizer exterior.
• Trim: Cut around the entire perimeter with scissors, leaving a 1/4 inch (6mm) seam allowance.
  • Expert Tip: At the opening (gap), leave the fabric slightly longer (1/2 inch) to make tucking it in easier later.
• Clip: Snip the corners diagonally (don't cut the stitch!) to reduce bulk.
• Turn: Reach in and turn the mug rug right-side out.
• Refining: Use a Dowel Stick or Chopstick to gently push the corners out.
• Risk: Do not use sharp scissors to push corners; you will poke through the fabric.

Sealing the Opening with Super Glue

Step 10 — Finish and Seal

• Action: Iron the project flat. tuck the raw edges of the opening inside.
• The Hack: Instead of hand-sewing the gap (Ladder Stitch), the video uses Super Glue Gel.
• Application: Apply a thin bead of gel to the inside seam allowance. Press firmly.
• Secure: Use Wonder Clips (clothespins work in a pinch) to hold it shut for 5 minutes.

Tool-Upgrade Path: Batch Processing If you enjoyed this but found the constant hooping and un-hooping tedious for a single coaster, imagine making 50 for a holiday market.

• The Standard: Production shops don't struggle with screws.
• The Upgrade: They use magnetic frames. If you own a Brother machine, search for brother magnetic embroidery frame or specifically a magnetic hoop for brother to find the size that fits your 6x10 field. It transforms a physical struggle into a simple "click-and-go" workflow.

Prep Checklist (Do before touching the screen)

• Needle: Inserted new 75/11 or 90/14 (Titanium or Sharp).
• Bobbin: Wound with 90wt thread (checked for tension).
• Iron: Top fabric fused with stabilizer mesh.
• Hoop: 2 Layers of tear-away, drum-tight.
• Safety: Scissors and spare needles located; magnet pinch hazards cleared.

Setup Checklist (Before Design Start)

• Hoop Size: Confirmed 10 5/8" x 10 5/8" (or sufficient for file).
• Clearance: Machine arm has free movement range.
• Design: "Ohana Appliqué" file loaded and oriented correctly.

Operation Checklist (During specific steps)

• Step 2: Fabric floated flat covering ALL placement lines?
• Step 4/5: Trimming completed without cutting secure stitches?
• Step 8: Backing fabric placed Right Sides Together (Face Down)?
• Finishing: Did you skip the final "Star" step?

Troubleshooting (Symptoms → Likely Cause → Fix)

Results

When the glue dries, you will have a professional 6x10 Koala Tea Time ITH Mug Rug featuring:

• A perfectly flat, quilted background (thanks to the felt + fusible combo).
• Clean, crisp appliqué edges on the cup.
• Intentionally textured raw-edge lettering (The "Rag" look).
• A sealed, invisible closure without a single hand-sewn stitch.

The Final Loop: Technique vs. Tool If you nailed the technique but hated the physical process of clamping the hoop or trimming awkward angles, your skills are fine—your tools might be the bottleneck.

• For HOOPING PAIN: Investigate a Magnetic Hoop system (brother luminaire magnetic hoop).
• For ALIGNMENT DOUBT: Look into a Hooping Station (hoop master embroidery hooping station).

Embroidery is 20% art, 30% science, and 50% having the right tool for the job. Happy stitching