Digitizing a “His” Towel Border in Creative DRAWings: From Stock Sailboat to a Clean, Repeatable Pattern

Setting Up Your Workspace for Toweling

A towel border project often looks deceptively simple—until the reality of terry cloth sets in. You press start, and suddenly the loops of the fabric begin to swallow your satin columns, the design shifts due to the pile's elasticity, and what was supposed to be a "quick gift" becomes a frustrating rescue mission.

In this masterclass, we are not just following a software tutorial; we are engineering a process. You will learn to build a clean "His" towel border by editing a stock sailboat, redrawing components for better stability on textured fabric, and mastering the physical setup that guarantees success.

While the software steps below are specific to Creative DRAWings, the principles of stitch mechanics on looped fabric apply to every machine and every software. Whether you are using a single-needle home machine or a 15-needle commercial workhorse, the victory is won in the setup.

What you’ll learn (and why it matters)

• Workflow Continuity: How to start a file from an existing design while preserving your machine's fabric presets—crucial for maintaining correct density settings automatically.
• Motif Isolation: How to surgically remove a single element (the sailboat) from a cluttered design using rectangular selection.
• Structural Redigitizing: How to redraw a sail using the Outline Shape tool, specifically to create a stable fill that pushes down terry loops rather than sinking between them.
• Array Logic: How to build a perfectly spaced 5-across border that accounts for "fabric draw" (the tendency of fabric to shrink as stitches accumulate).
• Typography for Texture: How to select and angle text so it remains legible on high-pile fabric.

Why towels are a special case (The Physics of Terry Cloth)

Terry cloth is a hostile environment for standard embroidery. It is essentially thousands of tiny loops waiting to snag your presser foot or poke through your fill stitches.

The "Sink" Factor: Unlike woven cotton, where stitches sit on top, stitches on towels want to migrate downward. If your density is too low or your underlay is weak, the terry loops will poke through, creating a "peppered" look where the fabric color bleeds into the thread color.

The "Squish" Factor: Towels are compressible. If you hoop them like a drum skin in a standard hoop, you crush the loops (permanently damaging the nap) and distort the weave. When you unhoop, the fabric relaxes, and your perfect circle becomes an oval. This is why preserving the fabric's natural state is critical.

Modifying Stock Designs: Adding a Custom Sail

The software goal here is to transform a standard "line art" style sail into a solid "step fill" sail. Line art often gets lost in towel loops; a solid fill acts like a mat, holding the loops down and providing a smooth surface for light to reflect off the thread.

Step 1 — Create a new document from embroidery

In Creative DRAWings, initiate your workflow by choosing From embroidery. Locate the stock design 10126.ngs in your Designs folder.

Checkpoint: Ensure the entire stock design loads into the workspace. It should look like a group of individual objects, not a flat image.

Expected Outcome: You have full access to select individual nodes and stitches.

Step 2 — Choose hoop and fabric preset

Select a standard hoop size, such as Generic 100 x 100.

Crucial Step: Select the fabric preset path:

• Embroidery Normal Light > Toweling

Expert Insight (The "Why"): New digitizers often skip fabric presets. Do not skip this. When you select "Toweling," the software secretly adjusts the Pull Compensation (making stitches slightly wider to account for sinking) and beefs up the Underlay (adding a foundation grid). If you leave this on "Standard Woven," your sailboat will look thin and anemic on a fluffier towel.

Step 3 — Isolate one sailboat and copy it

Zoom in to at least 200%. Select the Rectangular Selection tool. Carefully drag a box around only the first sailboat. Copy this selection to your clipboard.

Sensory Check: Look closely at the selection box handles. Are they hugging the sailboat tightly? If the box is huge, you likely accidentally selected a stray stitch or a hidden jump code.

Step 4 — Paste into a new graphic document

Open a new workspace by choosing New Graphic. Maintain discipline by rigorously matching your previous settings:

• Hoop: Generic 100 x 100
• Fabric: Embroidery Normal Light > Toweling

Click Paste.

Expected Outcome: A single, isolated sailboat sits in the center of a clean hoop, carrying all the toweling stitch properties with it.

Step 5 — Draw the new sail with Outline Shape

We are replacing the original sail (which might be too sparse) with a new, solid shape. Choose the Create Outline Shape tool.

The Geometry of Stitching:

1. Anchor Point: Left-click at the bottom-left of the original sail.
2. Curve Creation: Click on the center-left edge. The software interprets this as a curve.
3. Corner Precision: This is the most common failure point for beginners. To create a crisp, sharp angle (a "cusp" node) for the mast connection, you must hold SHIFT while clicking.
   • Hold SHIFT + Click top mast point.
   • Hold SHIFT + Click bottom mast point.
4. Close the Loop: Hold SHIFT and click your starting node to seal the shape. Right-click to finalize.

Checkpoint: Examine the wireframe. Does the left side curve gently like wind in a sail? Do the corners look sharp like machined metal? If they look rounded and "blobby," delete and retry the Shift-Click cadence.

Warning — Personal Safety: When working with your machine later, strictly keep your fingers outside the "Red Zone" (the hoop area) while the machine is running. A 1000 SPM needle moves faster than your reflex. Always keep dedicated embroidery scissors sharp; dull blades force you to pull on threads, which can distort the towel's loop structure or cause needle deflection.

Step 6 — Convert the outline into a Step Fill

With your new vector shape selected, open the Object Properties docker. Click Step to convert the vector graphic into embroidery data.

Why "Step Fill" for Towels? A Step Fill (often called Tatami) consists of rows of running stitches. Unlike Satin stitches, which are long floating threads that can snag on towel loops, Step Fills are anchored frequently. They are durable, washable, and perfect for matting down the pile of a towel.

Step 7 — Remove the outline stroke

In embroidery, less is often more. A Step Fill sail does not need a running stitch border—on a towel, that border will just get lost or look messy. Locate the Pen icon (outline color) in the palette and click X (none).

Visual Check: The black hairline outline should vanish, leaving only the block of color.

Step 8 — Fix layer order so details stay on top

Embroidery is physical layering. Your new sail was created last, so it sits "on top" of the stack, covering the mast. To fix this:

• Right-click the new sail.
• Select Order > To back of design.

Expected Outcome: The mast and rigging satin stitches now pop visually because they are sitting on top of the new fill stitch foundation. This layering adds a subtle 3D effect that looks professional.

Using the Rectangular Array Tool for Patterns

Consistency is the mark of a pro. Manually copy-pasting sailboats creates uneven gaps. The Array tool uses mathematical precision to space them.

Step 9 — Position the Anchor Motif

Select the entire sailboat (Ctrl + A). Move it to the upper-left quadrant of the hoop setup. Leave roughly 15mm of margin from the hoop edge—hooping towels often results in a "bowing" near the edges, so keep the design safe in the center field.

Step 10 — Create a 5-across rectangular array

Select Create Rectangular Array. Input:

• Horizontal copies: 5
• Vertical copies: 1

Drag the control handle to spread the flotilla across the width of the hoop.

Expert Tip — The "Gap" Rule: Visually, you want enough space between boats so they don't look crowded, but not so much that they look disconnected. A good rule of thumb for this scale is a gap equal to about 50% of the boat's width.

Commercial Scale-Up: If you start doing this volume of work regularly—monogramming towel sets for weddings or teams—manual hooping becomes a bottleneck. Professionals invest in hooping stations to ensure that every border lands at the exact same height on every towel, reducing reject rates.

Adding and formatting Text for Impact

Text on towels is notoriously difficult. Thin serifs disappear; tiny letters turn into unreadable knots.

Step 11 — Add "His" with robust settings

Select the Edit Text tool. We need a font with thick, uniform strokes.

• Font: Brittanic Bold (or Arial Black/Impact). Avoid scripts with thin connection lines.
• Size: 40mm (Height). Go big. Small text on towels is illegible.
• Style: Italic (adds motion similar to the wind in the sails).

Type His in the lower visual field.

Checkpoint: Does the text feel anchored? It should visually support the sailboats, not float aimlessly.

Step 12 — Unify the Color Story

Select the text and click the bottom-right corner of the existing blue color chip. This applies the identical blue thread code to the text.

Material Reality: Always use a Polyester embroidery thread (40 wt) for towels. Towels are washed frequently in hot water and exposed to bleach or harsh detergents. Rayon thread, while shiny, may fade or degrade over time in this harsh environment.

Finalizing: The Export

Save your "Source of Truth" file as .DRAW (editable vectors). Then, save as your machine format (DST, PES, JEF).

The "Pre-Flight" Simulation: Before leaving the software, run the Slow Redraw simulator. Watch specifically for the underlay. You want to see a grid or cross-hatch stitching happen before the main fill. If you don't see this, go back to Fabric Settings and double-check "Toweling."

Prep: The Hidden Phase of Success

You can have the perfect file, but if your physical prep is sloppy, the towel will win. This is where we introduce the "Sandwich Strategy" for towels.

The "Sandwich" Method

1. Bottom Layer (Stabilizer): Use a Tear-Away backing for medium-weight towels. For heavy/plush towels, use a Cut-Away mesh. The cut-away provides permanent support that prevents the embroidery from distorting after 50 wash cycles.
2. Middle Layer (The Towel): The fabric itself.
3. Top Layer (The Secret Weapon): You must use a Water Soluble Topping (like Solvy). This looks like plastic wrap. It sits on top of the loops and prevents the stitches from sinking. It dissolves away with water later.

Hidden Consumables List

• Water Soluble Topping: Non-negotiable for teery cloth.
• 75/11 Ballpoint Needle: Sharp needles can cut the loops of the terry cloth, leading to fraying. Ballpoint needles slide between the loops.
• Spray Adhesive (Temporary): Vital for floating the towel (see Setup).
• New Bobbin: You do not want to run out of bobbin thread halfway through a border.

If efficiency is your goal, search for terms like how to use magnetic embroidery hoop tutorials to see how quickly you can prep these "sandwiches" without wrestling with screw-tightening mechanisms.

Prep Checklist

• Needle Check: Fresh 75/11 Ballpoint installed?
• Bobbin Check: Is there enough standard weight (60wt) bobbin thread for the full run?
• Topping Ready: Is the water-soluble film cut large enough to cover the whole design area?
• The "Squish" Test: Should you use Cut-Away (heavy use) or Tear-Away (light use)? Decision made.

Warning — Magnet Safety: If you upgrade to magnetic frames to handle thick towels, be aware: these magnets are industrial-strength. They can pinch skin severely causing blood blisters, and usually affect pacemakers. Keep them 6 inches away from computerized screens and medical devices. Slide them apart; never try to pry them directly.

Setup: The Hooping Battle

Standard embroidery hoops (inner ring + outer ring) are the enemy of thick towels. To get the towel secure, you have to tighten the screw aggressively and force the inner ring in. This creates:

1. Hoop Burn: A permanent crushed ring on the velvet/terry pile.
2. Distortion: You inevitably pull the fabric as you tighten, warping the straight border.

The "Float" Technique (Alternative to Hooping)

If you only have standard hoops and are struggling:

1. Hoop only the stabilizer (drum tight).
2. Spray the stabilizer with temporary adhesive.
3. Lay the towel gently on top, pressing firmly to adhere.
4. Place the water-soluble topping on top.
5. Use the "Baste" function on your machine to stitch a box around the design area to lock it all down.

The Tool Upgrade (Commercial Solution)

For those doing this often, magnetic embroidery hoops are the industry standard for towels. They use magnetic force to clamp the quilt/towel sandwich without friction or leverage. You simply lay the bottom frame, place back-towel-topping, and snap the top frame on. Zero distortion, zero hoop burn.

Setup Checklist

• Hoop Check: Is the fabric securing method (Hoop or Float) firm? The towel should not move when you tug gently.
• Clearance: Is the design centered properly so the embroidery arm won't hit the thick hem of the towel?
• Topping: Is the water-soluble topping secured (pinned or basted) so the foot won't catch it?

Operation: Sensory Monitoring

Start your machine. Do not walk away. The first 30 seconds are critical.

The Auditory & Visual Check

• Sound: Listen for a rhythmic thump-thump. A sharp snap or clack usually means the needle is hitting the needle plate or the hoop.
• Sight: Watch the thread path. Is the top thread shedding slightly? Towels generate a lot of lint; if you see "fuzz" building up at the needle eye, pause and clean it.
• Touch (Lightly): Place your hand gently on the hoop frame (not near the needle). Do you feel excessive vibration? This might mean the towel is too heavy and dragging on the table. Support the excess towel weight with your arms or a table extension to prevent "flagging."

Operation Checklist

• Trace Completed: Di you run the tracing feature to ensure the needle doesn't hit the plastic hoop?
• Basting Box: (Optional but recommended) Run a basting stitch first to anchor the topping.
• Loop Watch: Watch the first few fills. Are terry loops poking through? (If yes, stop and add a second layer of topping).

Troubleshooting: The "Why Is This Happening?" Guide

When things go wrong, don't panic. Use this logic flow to diagnose the issue.

Specific Software Fixes

• Problem: Sail shapes look "blobby."
  
  Fix

  You forgot to hold SHIFT while placing nodes in Step 5. Delete and redraw using the Cusp node technique.
• Problem: New sail covers the boat details.
  
  Fix

  You forgot Step 8. Select the sail and move "To Back of Design."

Results & Next Steps

By following this guide, you have produced a professional-grade towel border. The "His" text stands tall on the pile, the sailboats form a crisp, rhythmic line, and the towel itself remains soft and undamaged.

You have mastered the trifecta of towel embroidery:

1. Digitizing for Texture: Using Step Fills and Underlay to tame the pile.
2. The Sandwich: Properly layering Backing + Towel + Topping.
3. Mechanical Control: Understanding how to hoop without harming the fabric.

As your confidence grows, you will find that the bottleneck isn't the stitching—it's the prep. If you plan to scale this into a side hustle or small business, investigate workflow tools like specialized hooping stations for machine embroidery. They allow you to prep the next towel while the current one is stitching, effectively doubling your output.

Now, take this file, grab that spare guest towel you’ve been saving, and stitch with confidence.