DesignShop v12 Fleece Digitizing That Doesn’t Sink: Cross-Hatch Support, Smart Density, and Hooping Choices That Save the Stitch

If you’ve ever watched a beautiful design turn into a fuzzy, sunken mess on fleece, you already know the physical sensation of defeat: you did “everything right,” used the standard settings, and the fabric still won. The stitches vanished into the pile, and your crisp lettering looked like it was underwater.

Samantha Mirabal from the Melco Application Team packed years of troubleshooting into this DesignShop Talk. She covers laser appliqué prep, the specific choreography of multi-color 3D puff, a workflow to turn DST files into typeable fonts, and—perhaps most critically—a masterclass on conquering fleece.

As someone who has trained operators on everything from single-needle home units to 12-head industrial monsters, I’m going to decode her advice. We aren’t just looking at software settings; we are looking at the physics of embroidery. You aren’t fighting “density” as much as you are fighting movement—pile shifting, elastic spring-back, and stitches disappearing into the loft.

Once you accept that this is a battle for stability, the whole workflow becomes calmer, safer, and infinitely more repeatable.

Don’t Panic—Fleece “Sinking” Is a Stability Problem, Not a Talent Problem (Fleece blanket + topper + hooping)

Fleece (and Sherpa, and high-pile blankets) is structurally unstable. It is fluffy and "squishy," which means it compresses under the heavy impact of the presser foot and rebounds the millisecond the needle passes. That rebound is what swallows your thread, making stitches look like they have “vanished.”

In the video, the key takeaway is simple physics: hold the fabric still and hold the pile down. If you can achieve that mechanical lock, your normal stitch choices will start behaving again.

This is where your choice of tooling determines your success rate. If you are struggling with traditional plastic rings that pop open on thick blankets, you are fighting a losing battle against leverage. Professionals often look for sturdier options. When discussing specific accessories, like genuine or aftermarket melco embroidery hoops, the "best" hoop isn't just the one that fits—it’s the one that arrests the movement of the fleece without crushing the fibers into a permanent "hoop burn" scar.

The “Hidden” Prep Pros Do Before They Touch DesignShop v12 (cutaway backing, 505, topper, file hygiene)

Amateurs rush to the machine; professionals survive by prepping. Before you change a single digitizing parameter, you must execute the "boring" checks. These are the physical steps that prevent 80% of rework and frustration.

Prep checklist (finish this before Setup)

• Confirm the Substrate: Pinch the fabric. Is it a dense microfleece (stable) or a loose Sherpa (unstable)? They require different attack plans.
• Backing Selection: The video example relies on Cutaway Backing. Why? Fleece stretches. Tearaway will eventually disintegrate, leaving your stitches to distort in the wash. Cutaway is the permanent skeleton your design needs.
• Top Stability: Plan to use a Water-Soluble Topper. This acts as a "snowshoe," keeping the stitches floating above the fluff.
• Adhesion Layer: If you use spray adhesive (like the industry-standard 505), test it on a scrap first. You want a light mist—tacky, not wet. Too much gum will drag on your needle, causing shredding.
• Hoop Sizing: Pick the smallest hoop that physically fits the design. (We will repeat this, because physics dictates that larger hoops allow more flag-waving and distortion).
• Digital Hygiene: If you are converting DST letters to a font (discussed later), put all character files in one clean, clearly named folder now. Don't hunt for them later.
• Hidden Consumables: Ensure you have spare Ballpoint Needles (75/11 is a safe sweet spot for fleece) and a fresh bobbin.

Warning: Needles, blades, and moving parts don’t care how experienced you are. Always power down before changing needles, keep fingers visibly away from the needle area during test runs, and never reach under the head while the machine is active. A needle through the finger is a career-ending injury for many.

Laser Appliqué + Kerf: Make the Satin Stitch Forgive Your Cut Edge (laser cutter, cotton vs synthetic)

When you introduce a laser cutter to your workflow for appliqué, you are dealing with Kerf. The laser doesn't just cut; it burns material away. This means your physical fabric shape will be microscopically smaller than your digital file.

The video’s practical takeaway for your "Safety Margin":

• Synthetic Materials (Polyester/Nylon): The laser cauterizes (melts) the edge. It’s clean and won't fray. You can use a slightly narrower satin stitch because the edge is stable.
• Cotton/Natural Fibers: The laser burns but does not seal. The edge is essentially char and loose fibers. You must increase your satin stitch width to aggressively capture and cover this edge, or it will pop out after the first wash.

Pro Tip: If you are building files for a cutter, Samantha recommends saving vector shapes as SVG or DXF formats, depending on what your specific cutter software ingests.

Multi-Color 3D Puff Sequencing: The “Border First” Rule That Prevents Ugly Lift and Bleed (edge walk + stitch angles)

Multi-color 3D puff is not just embroidery; it is structural engineering. If you get the sequence wrong, the foam perforates prematurely, or the colors bleed into each other.

The "Safe Sequence" demonstrated in the video:

1. The Foundation: Sew the flat border first (no foam yet). This creates a containment wall.
2. The Placement: Place the puff foam.
3. The Anchor: Tack it down with an Edge-Walk style tackdown. This slices the foam at the edges without compressing the middle.
4. The Build: Sew colors bottom to top.

The nuance that separates "okay" from "retail quality" is Stitch Angles. When you layer top satin stitches over bottom satin stitches, you must rotate the angles.

• Bad: Top layer runs at 90° / Bottom layer runs at 90°. (Result: The top thread sinks into the grooves of the bottom thread. Colors look muddy).
• Good: Top layer at 90° / Bottom layer at 45° or 135°. (Result: The stitches stack up like Lincoln Logs, staying high and readable).

Commercial Insight: Puff requires consistency. If the foam moves even 1mm, the design is ruined. If you are doing repeat puff jobs, manual hooping is often too variable. Specialized tools like professional hooping stations can reduce setup variability—essential when different operators are touching the same order.

DesignShop v12: Turn DST Letter Files Into a Typeable Custom Font (2.75" height + Save Letter mapping)

This is a production workflow feature that saves hours. Instead of manually importing "A.dst", "B.dst", and lining them up for every Jersey name, you map them once.

Here’s the exact process demonstrated for creating a keystroke-ready font:

1. Isolate: Open all individual DST character files (each letter as its own DST).
2. Measure: Identify the intended digitized height (the example is 2.75 inches). Do not guess here.
3. Map: For each character:
   • Right-click the letter.
   • Choose Save Letter.
   • Name the font family (e.g., “Boingo Large”).
   • Enter the height (2.75).
   • Type the keyboard character you want it mapped to (e.g., type “A” for the capital A file).
4. Repeat: Do this for all 26 letters (and numbers if you have them).
5. Test: Close files and type a sample string.

Two veteran notes that will save you headaches:

1. No Scaling: These are expanded stitch files. They are fixed geometric paths. They do not calculate new density like TrueType fonts. If you scale them up 20%, you get gaps. If you scale down 20%, you break needles. Use them at the specific size they were digitized for.
2. File Management: If you are organizing a growing font library, simple folder discipline matters. "Save As" into a void means the file is gone forever. Create a master folder: C:/Designs/CustomFonts/.
   

Where Your New Custom Font Actually Shows Up (Custom Fonts dropdown + quick test string)

After the tedious work of saving letters, the payoff is immediate. The new font appears under the Custom fonts category in DesignShop. The video demonstrates selecting the newly created font and typing a quick test sequence like “AaBbCc” to confirm the mapping is correct.

The "Profit Habit" Naming Convention:

• Include the size in the font name (e.g., "Boingo_2.75in").
• Include a suffix for file type (e.g., "DST").
• Result: "Boingo_2.75in_DST". When a customer asks for "that font from last year," you know instantly that you cannot shrink it for a hat.
  

TrueType/OpenType Fonts in DesignShop: Install on the Computer, Then Reopen the Software (Google Fonts)

Samantha clarifies a common point of confusion: OpenType/TrueType fonts are system assets, not just software assets.

The workflow:

1. Download the font (Google Fonts is a great safe source).
2. Right-click and Install on your Windows OS.
3. Crucial Step: Close DesignShop completely.
4. Reopen DesignShop. The software polls the Windows font directory on startup, and your new font will now appear.
   

The Fleece “No-Sink” Setup: Smallest Hoop + Topper + Flat Fill + Cross-Hatch Support (density 3.7–3.8, cross-hatch 20)

Here is the "Secret Sauce" of the video. This receipt is designed to combat the sinking issues described in the introduction.

The "Physics" of the Setup

• Hoop Size: Use the smallest hoop possible. Why? Large hoops act like trampolines. Small hoops act like drum skins. You need a drum skin to prevent the fabric from flagging (bouncing).
• The Sandwich: Cutaway backing + 505 Spray + Fleece + Water Soluble Topper. This turns a squishy variable into a semi-rigid board.
• Density Strategy: Do not just crank up the top stitching count. That creates a bulletproof vest, not a design. Instead, build structure.

The Action Plan (DesignShop Settings)

1. Text Size: Create text (demo uses 3.00 inches tall).
2. Fill Type: Change standard fill to Flat Fill. (Prevents pushing fabric during turns).
3. The Sub-Structure: Build a custom cross-hatch support layer.
   • Set spacing wide. The video experiments and settles on Density 20.0 points (approx 2.0mm spacing). This creates a net that traps the pile down before the pretty thread arrives.
4. Border Margin: Push this closer to the edges. You want the underlay to support the entire column.
5. Top Density: Samantha recommends 3.7–3.8 points (approx 0.37mm - 0.38mm spacing).
   • Note for Non-Melco Users: Standard auto-density is often 4.0 points (0.4mm). A setting of 3.8 is more dense (threads are closer together) to ensure coverage over the pile.

The Hoop Burn Problem: Fleece crushes easily. If you tighten a standard ring hoop too much, you leave a permanent white circle. This is where tools like strict magnetic embroidery hoops offer a massive advantage on fleece. Because they use vertical magnetic force rather than friction/squeeze, they hold the thickness without crushing the fibers, virtually eliminating hoop burn.

The “Why” Behind Flat Fill on Fleece: Reduce Push, Reduce Distortion (physics of pile + stitch path)

Why verify "Flat Fill" specifically?

Think of fleece like a memory foam mattress. If you run a stitch path that makes aggressive, sweeping turns (like a complex Tatami fill), it drags the surface fabric with it. On denim, this is fine. On fleece, that drag creates distortion and gaps.

The Golden Rule: If the fabric is lofty (high-pile), your stitch path must be calm. Flat fill uses long, predictable lines that disturb the pile less.

This is also why hoop choice is not just about holding fabric—it's about tension control. Using high-quality magnetic hoops for embroidery on high-pile goods allows for a more even distribution of tension. You avoid the "pull wrinkles" at the corners of the hoop, ensuring the design looks the same on the table as it did in the machine.

Primer Stitch on High-Pile Fabric: When It Helps, and When It’s Overkill (Primer Stitch density 20)

The video details the Primer Stitch settings—an optional full-fill underlay.

• Settings Shown: Primer density set around 20 points (2.0mm).
• Color Strategy: Match the primer thread to the blanket color (e.g., black thread on black blanket). It creates a hidden foundation.

Shop-Floor Judgment Call:

• Use Primer when the pile is aggressive (Sherpa, Faux Fur) and your topper/cross-hatch isn't enough.
• Skip Primer on standard microfleece. Extra stitches equal extra time, extra needle heat, and a stiffer eventual feel ("bulletproof embroidery"). Do not over-engineer if you don't have to.
  

Stabilizer Decision Tree for Fleece, Plush, and “Squishy” Goods (cutaway + topper vs alternatives)

Stop guessing. Use this logic flow to stabilize your substrate.

START: Pinch your fabric. How does it behave?

A) It is Thick/Fluffy + Springy (Blankets, Plush Throws)

• Backing: Heavy Cutaway (2.5oz or 3.0oz).
• Adhesion: Light 505 spray to prevent shifting.
• Topping: Water-soluble topper (REQUIRED).
• Digitizing: Flat fill + Wide Cross-hatch support (Density ~20).

B) It is Medium Pile + Stable (Quality Sweatshirt Fleece)

• Backing: Cutaway (Medium weight).
• Topping: Optional (Use if you see letters sinking).
• Digitizing: Cross-hatch helps huge fills; standard density usually ok for text.

C) It is Low Pile + Stretchy (Performance Knits)

• Backing: Cutaway (No-Show Mesh or Poly-Mesh is great here to keep it soft).
• Topping: Usually not needed unless design has tiny details.
• Digitizing: Focus on pull compensation.

Commercial Reality Check: If you are producing fleece items in volume (e.g., 50+ corporate vests), the time spent adjusting screw-hoops adds up to hours of lost profit. In this scenario, magnetic embroidery frames are often the fastest "quality + speed" upgrade. They reduce hooping time to seconds and significantly lower the rejection rate caused by hoop marks or slippage.

Operation: Run the Stitch Like a Production Tech, Not a Gambler (test sew, look, listen, and lock your variables)

Your file is set. Your machine is threaded. Now, do not walk away.

Sensory Monitoring

• Visual: Watch the fabric inside the hoop. It should be absolutely still. If you see a "ripple" or "wave" moving in front of the needle, your hooping is too loose.
• Auditory: Listen to the needle penetration. A solid "thump-thump" is good. A slapping sound means the fabric is flagging (bouncing). A grinding noise creates immediate concern for needle deflection.

Pre-Flight Checklist (Do this or risk the garment)

• Test Sew: Run a small swatch on scrap fleece with your full stack (Backing+Topper).
• Hoop Check: Confirm you are using the smallest hoop size selected in the software.
• Support Layer: Verify the cross-hatch underlay is visible in the software preview.
• Density Check: Top stitching density is in the safe zone (3.7–3.8 points / ~0.37mm).
• Topper Secure: Topper is large enough that the foot won't catch the edge.
• Record Data: Write down exactly what worked (Backing type, Density setting) for next time.

When “Check for Updates” Says No Internet: The Manual Download Fix (DesignShop v10/v11/v12)

The video touches on a common IT headache: older software versions throwing a “No Internet Connection” error when checking for updates, even when your Wi-Fi is fine.

The Fix:

1. Navigate manually to the Melco service/download website via your browser.
2. Download the latest executable file.
3. Check your current version (Help > About) against the download.

Do not ignore this. Melco updates often contain new thread charts and hoop definitions (including newer magnetic hoop profiles) that you need for fleece work.

Troubleshooting Fleece Embroidery: Symptom → Cause → Fix (sinking, coverage, shifting)

The Upgrade Path: When Better Hooping Pays for Itself (speed, consistency, fewer marks)

If you are embroidering fleece once a month for a hobby, you can absolutely succeed with standard hoops, patience, and the techniques above.

However, if you are doing fleece weekly, or if you are quoting jobs where ruining a $40 Patagonia vest kills your profit margin, you have reached a Decision Point.

• The Pain: Hand/wrist fatigue from tightening screws, hoop burn ("ghost rings") on sensitive fabrics, and inconsistent tension between employees.
• The Solution (Level 1): Implement a magnetic hooping station workflow. This standardizes the placement so every logo is in the exact same spot, regardless of which operator loaded it.
• The Solution (Level 2): If you are scaling beyond hobby volume and hitting a production wall, upgrading to a multi-needle platform like SEWTECH (which offers high value per stitch-minute) is the logical business step. The bottleneck eventually stops being "stitch quality" and becomes "operator time."

Warning: Magnet Safety. Magnetic hoops use high-power industrial magnets. They can pinch fingers severely. Keep them away from pacemakers, insulin pumps, and other implanted medical devices. Store them away from laptops and credit cards.

One Last “Old Hand” Reminder: Lock the Process, Then Get Creative

The video covers four different skill areas, but they share one professional habit: Standardization.

Amateurs guess; professionals measure.

• Kerf planning makes appliqué predictable.
• Angle rotation makes 3D Puff readable.
• Font mapping makes personalization profitable.
• Cross-hatch + Topper makes fleece crisp.

Once you have locked these variables down, you earn the right to experiment creatively—without gambling your customer's order.

FAQ

• Q: What is the fastest way to stop stitches from sinking or disappearing when embroidering text on fleece using Melco DesignShop v12?
  A: Use water-soluble topper plus a structural underlay (cross-hatch) instead of only increasing top density.
  • Add the “sandwich”: cutaway backing + light 505 spray + fleece + water-soluble topper.
  • Switch the design fill to Flat Fill and add a cross-hatch support layer at about Density 20.0 points (~2.0 mm spacing).
  • Set the top stitching density in the 3.7–3.8 points range (~0.37–0.38 mm) for better coverage over pile.
  • Success check: lettering stays crisp and visible after the topper is removed, with no “underwater” look.
  • If it still fails: add a second layer of topper or use a Primer Stitch (density around 20 points) matched to the blanket color for aggressive pile.
• Q: How can operators judge correct hooping tightness on fleece before running an embroidery job on a multi-needle embroidery machine?
  A: The fabric must be stable in the hoop—aim for “drum tight,” not squishy.
  • Choose the smallest hoop that physically fits the design to reduce fabric “flagging.”
  • Watch the fabric inside the hoop during the first stitches and re-hoop if any ripple/wave moves ahead of the needle.
  • Listen for a solid “thump-thump”; slapping sounds usually mean the fabric is bouncing.
  • Success check: the fabric inside the hoop looks still while stitching, and the design edges do not drift.
  • If it still fails: add light 505 spray between backing and fabric and confirm cutaway backing + topper are being used.
• Q: Which hidden consumables and pre-checks prevent rework when embroidering fleece (cutaway backing + 505 + topper workflow)?
  A: Do the “boring” prep first—most fleece failures start with missing consumables or rushed setup.
  • Confirm fabric type by pinching: dense microfleece vs loose Sherpa, then plan stabilizer/topper accordingly.
  • Prepare cutaway backing (not tearaway) and a water-soluble topper; test 505 spray on a scrap and keep it as a light mist.
  • Stock ballpoint needles (75/11 is shown as a safe sweet spot for fleece) and a fresh bobbin before you hoop.
  • Success check: the stack layers do not shift when you handle the hooped fabric, and the needle penetrates cleanly without shredding.
  • If it still fails: reduce spray amount (too wet can cause drag) and re-check that the hoop size is the smallest that fits.
• Q: What are the safest steps to change needles and run test stitches on an embroidery machine when troubleshooting fleece distortion or thread issues?
  A: Power down and keep hands out of the needle zone—needle injuries happen fast, even to experienced operators.
  • Turn the machine off before changing needles or working near moving parts.
  • Run a test sew on scrap fleece using the full stack (backing + topper) before committing to the garment.
  • Keep fingers visibly away from the needle area during test runs and never reach under the head while the machine is active.
  • Success check: the test swatch runs without abnormal noise and without the fabric “slapping” or shifting.
  • If it still fails: stop the run immediately and re-check hooping tightness, backing choice (cutaway), and topper coverage.
• Q: How can embroidery operators prevent hoop burn marks on fleece blankets when using standard ring hoops versus magnetic embroidery hoops?
  A: Avoid over-tightening standard ring hoops on fleece; magnetic embroidery hoops often reduce hoop burn because they clamp with vertical force instead of crushing friction.
  • Use the smallest hoop that fits and tighten only to the point where the fabric is stable (not flattened into a white ring).
  • Combine cutaway backing + topper so you do not “solve” sinking by over-cranking hoop tension.
  • Consider magnetic hoops if hoop marks and slippage are recurring, especially on thick blankets that pop open traditional hoops.
  • Success check: after unhooping, the fleece pile rebounds without a persistent white circle.
  • If it still fails: reduce hooping pressure further and rely more on topper + cross-hatch support for stability.
• Q: What magnet safety rules should shops follow when using magnetic embroidery hoops or magnetic hooping systems?
  A: Treat magnetic hoops as industrial pinch hazards and keep them away from implanted medical devices and sensitive electronics.
  • Keep fingers clear when closing the magnetic frame; magnets can pinch severely.
  • Keep magnetic hoops away from pacemakers, insulin pumps, and other implanted medical devices.
  • Store magnetic hoops away from laptops and credit cards.
  • Success check: operators can load hoops without finger-pinches and without the frame snapping shut unexpectedly.
  • If it still fails: slow the loading routine down and standardize the handling steps for every operator.
• Q: When fleece embroidery quality is inconsistent, how should a shop choose between technique changes, upgrading to magnetic hooping, or upgrading to a multi-needle platform like SEWTECH?
  A: Use a tiered decision: stabilize the process first, then upgrade tooling only when repeat jobs prove the bottleneck is hooping time or consistency.
  • Level 1 (technique): lock the fleece recipe—smallest hoop, cutaway + topper, Flat Fill, cross-hatch support (Density ~20), and top density around 3.7–3.8 points.
  • Level 2 (tooling): move to magnetic hoops and/or a hooping-station workflow when screw-hoop tension varies between operators or hoop burn/slippage causes rejects.
  • Level 3 (capacity): consider a multi-needle platform like SEWTECH when the limiting factor becomes operator time per order, not the stitch file.
  • Success check: repeat orders run with the same settings and produce the same look without re-hooping or “saving” jobs mid-run.
  • If it still fails: document what changed (backing weight, topper layers, density) and standardize one variable at a time before investing further.