mySewnet Platinum Basics for Beginners: Set Hoop Size, Use Super Designs, Resize Correctly, and Export PES

Setting Up Your Workspace: Custom Hoop Sizes & Master Workflows

If you have ever opened embroidery software like mySewnet Platinum and immediately felt a wave of anxiety—tabs everywhere, hoops you don’t recognize, and a blank canvas demanding decisions you don't know how to make—you are not alone. This is the "Cognitive Gap." You know what you want to make, but the bridge between your brain and the machine feels broken.

This lesson is your "first clean win." We are going to ignore 80% of the noise and focus on the 20% that actually gets results. You will learn to set a hoop workspace with intent, place a scalable design, resize it without ruining the stitch density, and establish a "School of Hard Knocks" approved safety workflow for saving files.

What you’ll learn (and why it matters)

• The "Intent" Rule: Choosing a workspace based on your finished design size, not just a random machine model list.
• Manual Control: How to manually enter a custom hoop size (we will use a 180 mm × 180 mm square as our baseline).
• Vision Hygiene: How to keep your screen readable (grid + zoom habits) so you aren't "clicking blind."
• The "20% Rule": Avoiding the resizing mistakes that turn beautiful designs into bulletproof cardboard or sparse messes.
• The Safety Net: A bulletproof VP4 vs. PES workflow.

Step-by-step: Choose a hoop size based on reality

1) Start on a blank canvas. Dismiss the panic; the white space is your friend. 2) (Optional) Pick a machine model. If you own a specific machine, selecting it restricts the list to what you physically own.

3) Enter a custom hoop size manually:

• Click Enter Hoop Size.
• Type 180 for width and 180 for height.
• Click OK.

You will notice a visual shift: the hoop preview changes from a complex "bracketed" representation to a simple square outline. This is good. It removes visual clutter and lets you focus on the Working Boundary.

Pro Tip: The difference between "Software Hooping" and "Physical Hooping"

Setting the hoop size on screen is easy. Getting the fabric into the hoop without wrinkles is the hard part. A square tight on the screen means nothing if your fabric is loose in reality.

• Sensory Check: When you hoop your fabric, tap it. It should sound like a dull drum—thump, thump. If it sounds loose or creates a ripple when you run your finger over it, your outlines will not line up.

If you are moving from hobby stitching to production (50+ shirts), manual hooping becomes a bottleneck. Your wrists will hurt, and consistency will drop. This is where professionals upgrade their tooling. Many shops integrate a hooping station for embroidery into their workflow. This ensures every garment is aligned identically before it ever touches the needle, reducing the "hoop burn" marks often left by standard plastic hoops.

Warning: Even though this tutorial is software-based, your finished stitch quality is dictated by physics. Keep fingers clear of the needle area at all times. Modern machines move fast; if you hear a "crunching" sound, hit the emergency stop immediately. Never trim jump stitches while the pantograph is moving.

Using Super Designs for Scalable Assets

"Super Designs" in mySewnet are algorithmically generated. Unlike a standard stitch file (which is static), Super Designs recalculate their stitch count when you resize them. They are the safest way to learn.

Turn on the Grid (Your Visual Anchor)

1) Go to the View tab. 2) Click Show Grid.

Checkpoint: You should see a grid pattern. This is your "ruler." Without it, you are guessing distances.

Insert a Super Design (Flowers example)

1) Go to the Super Design tab. 2) In the category list, choose Flowers and Leaves.

3) Click a flower design (the instructor uses a 5-petal flower). 4) Critical Step: Before applying, look at the Size field. Set it to 20 mm.

5) Click Apply.

Interface Navigation (The "Cockpit" View)

• Film Strip (Left): This is your timeline. It shows the order of operations.
• Design Panel (Right): This is your dashboard. It shows Stitch Count, Colors, and Dimensions.

The Hover Habit: Hover your mouse over a color block in the Design Panel. The software highlights that specific part of the design. Do this constantly. It helps you visualize the physical layer of thread that will be laid down.

Mental Reset: The "Home Base" Habit

If you feel lost in the tabs, or if clicking feels frantic:

• Rule: After every major action, click the Home tab.

Treat "Home" as your reset point. It centers you and puts the most common tools back under your fingertips.

The Right Way to Resize: Density & Physics

Resizing is the #1 way beginners ruin a design. If you take a standard design and double its size, the software might just spread the existing stitches out, resulting in gaps. If you shrink it, the stitches pile up, creating a "bulletproof" stiff patch that breaks needles.

Method A: Visual Resizing (The "Shift" Lock)

1) Select your flower design. 2) Grab a corner handle (never the side handle). 3) Hold the SHIFT key on your keyboard. 4) Drag the corner.

If you do not hold Shift, you destroy the aspect ratio. The flower becomes an oval.

Checkpoint: Does the flower look like a squashed pancake? If yes, Ctrl+Z (Undo). Try again with Shift held down.

The "Density Danger Zone"

Super Designs (like the one we are using) handle resizing well because they recalculate new stitches. However, for standard imported embroidery files (PES, DST), follow the 20% Rule:

• Do not resize a standard file more than +/- 20%.
• Going beyond this safely usually requires advanced density adjustment software or re-digitizing.

Method B: Precise Resizing (The Engineering Method)

Sometimes "dragging" is too vague. You need exactly 30.0 mm.

1) Ensure you are on the Home tab. 2) Click the Modify Design icon (look for the box with arrows).

3) In the dialog box:

• Use the percentage arrows.
• Watch the millimeter readout. Ignore the percent; look at the physical size.
• Stop when width = 30.0 mm.

4) Click OK.

Checkpoint: Your Design Panel now confirms the width is exactly 30.0 mm.

Commercial Insight: Speed vs. Quality

If you spend 20 minutes resizing a design, but then spend 10 minutes struggling to hoop a thick hoodie, you have lost money.

• Standard Hoops: Great for flat cotton. Struggle with thick seams.
• Production Solution: If you are fighting with thick materials, or if the inner and outer rings of your hoop keep popping apart, consider upgrading to magnetic embroidery hoops. These use crushed-magnet force to hold fabric without the "friction burn" of plastic hoops, significantly speeding up the workflow shown in this software lesson.

Warning (Magnetic Safety): Magnetic hoops are industrial tools. They carry a Pinch Hazard.
* Keep fingers away from the contact zone when snapping them together.
* Pacemaker Warning: Keep these strong magnets at least 6 inches away from any implanted medical devices.
* Store them separated by their foam spacers.

Navigation Tips: Mastering Zoom and Pan

You cannot fix what you cannot see. Stitch quality issues often hide in the details.

The "Drag-to-Zoom" Technique

1) Click the Zoom tool (magnifying glass). 2) Draw a box around the specific petals you want to inspect.

3) Release. The screen fills with just that detail.

The "Zoom-to-Fit" Reset

When you are too deep in the weeds, click the 4-way Arrow icon (Zoom to Fit). This zooms out to show the Hoop, not just the design.

Skip the Slider

The zoom slider is often laggy. It forces the computer to redraw the embroidery thousands of times as you drag.

• Pro Habit: Use the percentage dropdown menu. Jump straight to 400% or 800%. It is faster and easier on your eyes.

Saving vs. Exporting: The "Safety Net" Workflow

This is non-negotiable. You must separate your "Source Code" from your "Machine Code."

Step 1: Save the Master (VP4)

1) File > Save As. 2) Name it: Flower_Lesson_MASTER. 3) Format: .vp4.

Why? A .vp4 file retains the properties of the Super Design. You can open it next week and resize it again perfectly.

Step 2: Export the Machine File (PES/DST)

1) File > Export. 2) Format: Choose .pes (for Brother) or your machine's format.

3) Settings:

• Confirm hoop size.
• Uncheck ColorSort (for now). We want to control the exact sequence.

4) Name it: Flower_Lesson_STITCH.

Why? A .pes file is "dumb" data. It is just XYZ coordinates. If you resize this later, you will ruin the quality.

Checkpoint: Look at your file folder. Do you see two files? One MASTER (VP4) and one STITCH (PES)? Good.

Prep: The Physical Reality

Software perfection means nothing if the machine setup is flawed. Before you transfer that file to your USB drive, run this physical audit.

Hidden Consumables Setup

Beginners often ignore these until it is too late:

• Fresh Needle: If you can't remember when you last changed it, change it now. A dull needle causes "bird nesting."
• Bobbin Check: Do you have enough thread? Is the bobbin tension correct? (The drop test: it should hold its weight but drop slightly when jerked).
• Adhesive: Temporary spray adhesive (like 505) is often needed for float-hooping.
• Scrap Fabric: Never run a new digital file on the final garment first. Always run a test stitch.

If you are using a smaller machine like a Brother SE600, the 4x4 inch limit is strict. Beginners frequently struggle with placement here. Searching for a brother 4x4 embroidery hoop tutorial specifically for alignment can save you from stitching crookedly.

Prep Checklist (Do NOT skip)

• Design Bounds: I know my design size in mm (e.g., 30mm) and it fits within my physical hoop's printable area.
• Needle: Brand new 75/11 or 90/14 needle installed (depending on fabric).
• Bobbin: Full bobbin, correct weight (usually 60wt or 90wt).
• Path: The machine area is clear of walls/objects (the pantograph arm puts out an eye if you aren't careful!).
• File Hygiene: I have saved the Master VP4 separately from the Export PES.

Setup: The Decision Matrix

How do you choose the right combination of hoop and stabilizer? Use this decision tree.

Decision Tree: Fabric → Stabilizer → Hoop Strategy

1. What is the Fabric?

• Non-Stretch (Denim, Canvas, Towels):
  • Stabilizer: Tear-Away is usually sufficient.
  • Hoop Strategy: Standard squeeze hoop is fine. If the fabric is very thick (canvas bag), a magnetic hoop will save your hands.
• Stretchy (T-Shirt, Jersey, Performance Wear):
  • Stabilizer: Cut-Away is mandatory. Tear-away will result in a distorted design (the "football" effect) once unhooped.
  • Hoop Strategy: Do not pull the fabric tight in the hoop! It should be neutral.
  • Pain Point: Squeezing a T-shirt into a plastic hoop often stretches it. This is why pros use a magnetic hoop for brother machines. The magnets snap down vertically, securing the knit fabric without stretching it horizontally.
• High Pile (Fleece, Velvet, Towels):
  • Stabilizer: Cut-Away on bottom + Water Soluble Topping on top (to stop stitches sinking in).
  • Hoop Strategy: These fabrics "bruise" easily (hoop burn). Use a floating technique or magnetic embroidery hoops for brother to minimize crushing the nap of the fabric.

2. What is the Volume?

• One-off: Manual hooping is acceptable.
• Production (10+ items): Use a hooping station for brother embroidery machine to guarantee every chest logo is exactly 3 inches down and centered.

Operation: The Execution Loop

We combine the data into a linear workflow.

1. Open Software: Start mySewnet Platinum.
2. Define Workspace: Set Custom Hoop to 180x180mm (or your actual hoop size).
3. Visualization: View > Show Grid.
4. Creation: Super Design > Flower > Set Size 20mm > Apply.
5. Audit: Check Stitch Count in Design Panel.
6. Edit: Home > Modify Design > Scale to 30.0mm.
7. Inspection: Zoom to 800%. Look for overlapping densities.
8. Save Master: Save as .vp4.
9. Export Production: Export as .pes (ColorSort OFF).
10. Transfer: Move .pes file to USB/Machine.

Operation Checklist (Pre-Flight)

• Shift-Key Verified: I used Shift-drag so the design isn't squashed.
• Visual Check: Grid is ON, providing scale context.
• Format Check: I am sending a PES (or DST) to the machine, NOT a VP4.
• Name Check: Filename contains "Export" or "Stitch" to avoid confusion.
• Hoop Check: The hoop selected in export maximizes the machine's arm movement.

Quality Checks & Troubleshooting

Before you blame the machine, look at the evidence.

On-Screen Quality Assurance

• Jumps: Do you see long straight lines connecting color blocks? Your machine might trim them, or you might have to trim them manually.
• Density: If you shrunk a standard design, does it look like a solid black blob on screen? If so, do not stitch it. It will break your needle.

Troubleshooting Guide (Symptom → Cause → Fix)

Results & Next Steps

You have now bridged the gap. You have a workflow that respects both the digital precision of mySewnet and the physical limitations of thread and fabric.

Your Deliverables:

1. A saved .vp4 master file (your asset).
2. An exported .pes stitch file (your instruction code).
3. A resized design that maintains stitch integrity.

The Level Up: If you find yourself spending more time fighting with hoops than designing in software, that is the signal to upgrade your hardware. Whether it is moving to magnetic hoops to save your wrists, or upgrading to a multi-needle machine for speed, listen to the friction points in your process—they tell you exactly what to fix next.