ITH Fish Coaster Embroidery Tutorial: Cleaner Appliqué, Smarter Stabilizing, and a Professional Envelope Backing

Materials Needed for ITH Coasters

This project is an In-The-Hoop (ITH) drink coaster with a fish design, stitched entirely in the hoop and finished with an envelope-style backing. You’ll learn how to build the coaster layers cleanly, how to avoid dark fabric showing through light appliqué (shadowing), and how to get a round, professional edge that turns smoothly without "boxing."

What the video makes clear (and what you’ll actually do)

You will systematically build layers: stitch a placement line on stabilizer, tack down batting for volume, fuse and tack down the main fabric, create a "window" for the appliqué, stitch the design (including optional text), and finally add two folded backing pieces that overlap in the center before the final perimeter seam.

Materials shown in the tutorial

• Fusible Fleece: Fleece on one side, fusible resin on the other. Provides the "body" of the coaster.
• Thermolam Batting: An optional alternative mentioned for a flatter profile.
• SF101 Pellon: Applied to the back of most fabrics in the demo to prevent fraying and distortion.
• Cutaway Stabilizer: The structural foundation. Pro Tip: Use medium-weight (2.5oz).
• Main/Front Fabric: Dark plaid flannel (in the demo).
• Light Appliqué Fabric: White cotton (in the demo).
• Batting/Felt Layer: Black batting shown; felt is a viable alternative for a stiffer coaster.
• Two Backing Fabric Pieces: Folded to create finished edges.
• Scotch Tape: Crucial for holding backing pieces from shifting during high-speed movement.
• Steam-A-Seam: To seal the envelope closure permanently.
• Embroidery Thread: Polyester 40wt is standard.

Tools shown (and why they matter)

• Embroidery Machine: (Husqvarna Viking shown).
• Hoop Sizes: 6x6, 5x5 (used in the demo), and 8x8.
• Mini Iron: Used directly inside the hoop to fuse layers without unhooping.
• Curved Embroidery Scissors: Double-curved design allows your hand to stay above the hoop while cutting intricate shapes.
• Pinking Shears: For trimming the finished coaster cleanly to reduce bulk.

Warning: Cutting inside the hoop is the #1 cause of machine damage and personal injury. Keep your non-cutting hand completely outside the hoop’s inner ring. Always stop the machine. Use curved embroidery scissors; standard straight scissors force you to angle the blades, often slashing the fabric or stabilizer by accident.

Comment-based “tool clarity” (so you don’t buy the wrong thing)

A common point of confusion is the specific scissors used. Based on the video and industry standards:

• For the outer edge final trim: Use Pinking Shears (zig-zag teeth). This prevents the seam allowance from creating a ridge when turned inside out.
• For threads and jump stitches: Use Spring-loaded Snips.
• For appliqué trimming inside the hoop: Use Double-Curved Embroidery Scissors.

Step 1: Preparing Your Hoops and Batting

Primer: hoop size and design options

The video stitches the 5x5 version. Ensure your hoop size matches the file size exactly. Too large a hoop may cause excess vibration; too small implies the foot might hit the frame.

Step-by-step: batting placement and trim

Step 1 — Run the batting placement stitch (on stabilizer).

• The machine stitches a simple circle placement line directly on the stabilizer.
• Sensory Check: You should see a clean circle. If the stabilizer puckers or "drums" loosely, re-hoop now. It should be tight like a drum skin.
• Expected Outcome: A clear visual map for your materials.

Step 2 — Place batting over the circle and run the tack-down stitch.

• Place your batting piece so it fully covers the placement circle by at least 1/2".
• Stitch the tack-down line.
• Sensory Check: Run your hand over the batting. It should feel flat, not floating.
• Expected Outcome: A stable, padded base.

Step 3 — Trim batting close to the tack-down line.

• Trim excess batting as close to the stitch line as possible (1-2mm) without cutting the thread.
• Why: This removes bulk from the seam allowance. If you leave excess batting, the final coaster edges will feel thick and lumpy.
• Expected Outcome: A neat raised "platform" of batting.

Why this matters (expert depth, without changing the video facts)

In ITH (In-The-Hoop) projects, the batting layer is your "foundation." If this layer shifts, every subsequent satin stitch will be misaligned, leading to gaps (white spacing) between the border and the design.

Step 2: The Secret to Perfect Applique Trimming

Step-by-step: fuse the main fabric inside the hoop

Step 4 — Place the main fabric (with fusible fleece) over the batting area.

• Orient the fusible side down (touching the batting/stabilizer) if using fusible fleece as the main body, or as shown in the demo. Cover the entire placement line.

Step 5 — Use a mini iron inside the hoop to fuse the fabric in place.

• Carefully press inside the hoop.
• Physics of Embroidery: Fusing creates a temporary bond that prevents the "push-pull" distortion common in flannel fabrics.
• Sensory Check: Tap the fabric. It should not slide.
• Expected Outcome: Zero movement during the tack-down stitch.

Step 6 — Run the tack-down stitch to hold the main fabric.

• This locks the main fabric layer to the base.
• Checkpoint: The tack-down line is fully stitched with no skipped stitches.

Step-by-step: prevent dark show-through under light appliqué

When placing white fabric over dark plaid, the pattern often bleeds through, making the white look muddy. The tutorial demonstrates the "Reverse Cutwork" method.

Step 7 — Run the appliqué placement stitch, then cut out the center of the dark fabric.

• The Trick: After the circle is stitched, use your curved scissors to cut away the dark fabric only from inside the circle.
• Action: Snip a small hole in the center, then work your way out to the stitch line. Cut as close to the stitch as possible (1/16").
• Expected Outcome: You now have a "window" to the stabilizer/batting below, removing the dark background.

Step 8 — Add a cutaway “blocker” layer (optional), rerun the placement stitch, and cut layer.

• To make the white appliqué brilliant, the creator places a piece of cutaway stabilizer in the window to act as an opaque blocker.
• Rerun the placement stitch to tack it down, then trim it.
• Expected Outcome: A neutral, opaque base.

Step-by-step: place appliqué fabric, stitch cut line, and trim to 1/16"

Step 9 — Place the light appliqué fabric over the cutout area and run the cut line stitch.

• This stitch defines the final shape.

Step 10 — Trim the appliqué fabric, leaving about 1/16" (1.5mm) margin.

• The Sweet Spot: The margin should be about the width of a credit card's edge.
• Risk Assessment:
  • Too Close: The fabric frays and pulls out of the satin stitch.
  • Too Far: You see "whiskers" or raw edges poking out from the satin border.
• Sensory Check: Run your finger over the trim; it should feel smooth, not jagged.

Pro tip from the tutorial: your “last chance” trim

After the appliqué tack-down, look closely. Any thread or fabric fiber extending beyond the tack-down line will show later. Trim it now.

Expert note: why 1/16" works so well

Satin stitches usually have a width of 3mm to 4mm. A 1/16" (1.5mm) margin ensures the needle lands outside the raw edge on one side and inside the fabric on the other, encapsulating the edge in a tunnel of thread.

If you are doing production runs of 50+ items, hooping and trimming fatigue is real. Experienced shops often set up dedicated trimming tables. Many professionals explore hooping stations to standardize alignment before the hoop ever hits the machine, reducing the mental load of centering fabrics manually.

Step 3: Stitching the Design and Adding Custom Text

Step-by-step: stitch sequence shown in the video

Step 11 — Stitch the background stipple (optional).

• Visual Check: Ensure the thread color matches the appliqué fabric for a subtle texture.

Step 12 — Stitch the satin border and the detail outline stitches.

• Critical Moment: Watch the machine. If you see the white appliqué fabric peeking out outside the border, stop and trim immediately.
• Expected Outcome: A raised, glossy satin border that completely hides the raw edge.

Step 13 — Stitch the fish design and optional name.

• Tension Check: Turn the hoop over occasionally. You should see 1/3 white bobbin thread in the center of the column. If you see top thread loops on the bottom, tighten top tension.
• Expected Outcome: Crisp definition on small text (no "blobs").

Step 14 — Optional detail stitch.

• Adds final texture and secures all layers firmly.

Expert depth: tension and “in-hoop pressing” as quality insurance

Stitching dense satin borders on thick flannel can cause "hoop displacement," where the fabric is pushed slightly by the needle's impact. Fusing (gluing) the fabric minimizes this.

Tools matter here. Standard hoops rely on friction. If you find your fabric slipping or "flagging" (bouncing) during high-speed satin stitching, results will suffer. Some users stick to OEM husqvarna embroidery hoops for guaranteed fit, while production houses often upgrade to magnetic frames that clamp vertically with immense pressure, preventing the "fabric creep" that ruins perfect circles.

Step 4: Creating the Envelope Backing In-The-Hoop

Step-by-step: build the envelope backing with a 1/2" overlap

This step turns a piece of embroidery into a finished product. No sewing machine required.

Step 15 — Prepare two backing pieces folded in half to create finished edges.

• Press the fold sharply. A crisp fold equals a crisp finished opening.

Step 16 — Place the first backing piece on the back of the hoop.

• Orientation: The folded edge should be near the center. The raw edges should extend past the coaster outline.

Step 17 — Place the second backing piece so the folded edges overlap.

• The Metric: Overlap by roughly 1/2" (12mm).
• Too little overlap: The coaster gaps open.
• Too much overlap: It's hard to turn right side out.
• Visual Check: Ensure the entire design circle is covered by fabric.

Step 18 — Tape the backing pieces down with Scotch tape.

• Secure the corners and the overlap points.

Step 19 — Confirm fabric orientation: Right Sides Together (RST).

• The Rule: The "pretty side" of the backing fabric must face down (towards the stabilizer). The "wrong side" faces you.

Expert depth: why backing creep happens (and how to prevent it)

The friction of the machine bed rubs against the backing fabric. If not taped securely, the fabric will fold back on itself, ruining the piece.

Aligning backing on the underside of a hoop is awkward. If you struggle with gravity while trying to tape, a magnetic hooping station can be useful—not just for hooping, but for holding the hoop steady upside down while you position these critical backing layers.

Step 5: Finishing Touches: Trimming and Sealing

Step-by-step: remove tape, unhoop, and trim

Step 20 — Remove the tape after the perimeter seam is stitched.

• Peel gently to avoid distorting the stitches.

Step 21 — Unhoop and trim the coaster out.

• Tool Choice: Use Pinking Shears. Cut about 1/4" to 1/8" away from the perimeter stitch.
• Why: Pinking shears create zig-zag edges that reduce the bulk when turned, creating a smoother curve than a straight cut.

Checkpoint: Ensure you haven't cut through the actual perimeter stitching.

Expected Outcome: A raw-edged shape ready for turning.

Step-by-step: turn right side out and shape the circle

Step 22 — Turn the coaster right side out through the envelope opening.

• Use a dull point turner (or a chopstick) to run along the inside of the seam, smoothing out the curve.

Checkpoint: The circle should not look like a hexagon. If it has "corners," you didn't trim closer enough or didn't push the seam out fully.

Expected Outcome: A perfectly round coaster.

Step-by-step: press and seal the envelope closure

Step 23 — Press the coaster flat.

• Steam is your friend here. It sets the stitches and flattens the fleece.

Step 24 — Seal the back flap with Steam-A-Seam (optional).

• Insert a strip under the overlap, fuse it shut. This prevents the coaster from gaping open when a wet mug sits on it.

Warning: Magnetic Safety. If you upgrade to magnetic frames for faster ITH workflows, treat the magnets with extreme respect. They carry a severe pinch hazard (some have 10-20lbs of force). Keep them away from pacemakers, magnetic media, and small children. Do not let two magnets snap together without a separator.

Comment-based “comfort and ergonomics” note

The video creator uses ring splints for joint support. Embroidery involves repetitive pinching (trimming) and gripping (hooping).

• Trigger: If your wrists ache after hooping 10 flannels, or your thumbs hurt from tightening the screw...
• Criteria: If pain limits your production time...
• Option: Consider magnetic embroidery hoops. They require zero screw tightening and zero force-wrangling of thick fabrics—you simply drop the magnet ring onto the base.

Prep

Hidden consumables & prep checks (the stuff that causes 80% of “mystery problems”)

Before starting, ensure you have these often-overlooked essentials:

• Needle: Size 75/11 Embroidery or Topstitch needle. (Sharp point for piercing multiple layers).
• Bobbin: Pre-wound bobbin (white) usually works best for ITH.
• Marker: Disappearing ink pen (if you need to mark centers).
• Cleaning: Lint brush (fleece creates dust; dust causes thread breaks).
• Adhesive: Scotch tape and fusible web (Steam-A-Seam).

Decision tree: choosing stabilizer + blocker strategy for clean light appliqué

Use this logic flow to determine your layering strategy:

1. Is your appliqué fabric light (white/yellow) and base fabric dark?
   • Yes: Go to Question 2.
   • No: Standard Appliqué (Simpler method).
2. Do you demand absolute opacity (brightest white)?
   • Yes: Use Reverse Cutwork (cut base fabric) + Blocker (add cutaway).
   • "Good Enough" is okay: Use Blocker only (Layer cutaway under white).
3. Are you using black batting?
   • Yes: You must use a Blocker or the white appliqué will look grey.

Prep checklist (end-of-section)

• Design file loaded and correct hoop size selected (5x5).
• Bobbin fully wound.
• Batting pre-cut larger than the placement circle.
• Main fabric fused with fleece (or ready to fuse in-hoop).
• Two backing pieces folded and pressed crisp.
• Tape and scissors within arm's reach.

Setup

Hoop and workflow setup (what to do before you press Start)

• Hooping: Hoop your stabilizer "drum tight." If it sags, the circle won't meet up at the end.
• Iron: Set up the mini-iron station next to the machine, not across the room.
• Ergonomics: Position your chair so you are looking down at the needle area to see placement lines clearly.

If you are setting up a serious production run (e.g., 50 coasters for a craft fair), consistency is key. Commercial shops use systems like the hoop master embroidery hooping station to ensure every single coaster is perfectly centered, reducing the "reject rate" significantly.

Setup checklist (end-of-section)

• Stabilizer is taut and free of wrinkles.
• Needle is fresh (no burrs).
• Thread path is clear and tension is standard.
• Machine speed set to medium (600-800 SPM) for precision appliqué work.

Operation

Full step-by-step checkpoints (condensed run sheet)

1. Placement: Stitch Batting place line.
2. Batting: Place Batting -> Stitch Tack-down -> Trim.
3. Fusing: Place Main Fabric -> Fuse -> Stitch Tack-down.
4. Appliqué Window: Stitch Placement -> Cut out center (Reverse Appliqué).
5. Appliqué: Place White Fabric -> Stitch Cut Line -> Trim to 1/16".
6. Design: Stitch Satin Border -> Fish Design -> Text.
7. Backing: Remove hoop (optional) -> Tape Backing Piece 1 -> Tape Backing Piece 2 (Overlap 1/2").
8. Finish: Stitch Perimeter Seam -> Unhoop.

If you find yourself dreading the hooping process for every single coaster, remember that tools exist to solve this. magnetic hoops for embroidery machines allow you to simply lift the magnetic top frame, slide in new stabilizer/batting, and snap it back down in seconds, maintaining perfect tension without the "unscrew-rescrew" fatigue.

Operation checklist (end-of-section)

• Did you trim the batting close enough? (Check for bulk).
• Did you trim the appliqué threads before the satin stitch? (Check for "whiskers").
• Is the backing taped RST (Right Sides Together)?
• Did the bobbin run out mid-design? (Check before final perimeter seam).

Quality Checks

What “good” looks like on this coaster

• Roundness: The coaster is a true circle, not an oval or polygon.
• Opacity: The white fish is bright white, not grey/plaid shadow.
• Borders: The satin stitch edges are smooth, with no fabric fraying poking out.
• Flatness: The coaster lies flat on the table (fusing successfully prevented distortion).

Small professional finishing upgrades (optional, generally useful)

• The "Invisible" Back: Use a matching bobbin thread for the final perimeter stitch so the seam blends into the backing fabric.
• Corner Poking: Use a bamboo chopstick or a dedicated turning tool to actively push the curved seam out before pressing.

Troubleshooting

Symptom: Dark fabric shows through the light appliqué

• Likely Cause: No blocker layer used, or dark fabric not cut away.
• Quick Fix: There is no fix after stitching.
• Prevention: Use the "Decision Tree" in the Prep section—Reverse Cutwork is essential here.

Symptom: Appliqué edge pulls out from under the satin stitch

• Likely Cause: Trimmed too close (under 1mm) or fabric wasn't fused.
• Prevention: Aim for the 1/16" (1.5mm) margin. Fuse the appliqué fabric with a tiny bit of glue stick before stitching if it keeps slipping.

Symptom: Satin border looks bumpy or uneven

• Likely Cause: Batting was not trimmed close enough, creating a ridge under the satin.
• Prevention: Trim batting meticulously in Step 3.

Symptom: Backing pieces shift during the perimeter seam

• Likely Cause: Tape came loose or hoop vibration was too high.
• Quick Fix: Use more tape next time, or slow the machine down for the final step.
• Upgrade: Magnetic hoops hold backing layers more securely due to vertical clamping force.

Results

You now have a fully finished ITH fish coaster with a clean appliqué window, crisp satin details, and a functional envelope backing. The difference between "homemade" and "professional" lies in the hidden details: the reverse cutwork for opacity, the 1/16" appliqué trim, and the sharp pressing of the backing.

If you plan to scale this project—perhaps making sets of 4 or 8 for sale—efficiency becomes your new challenge. Upgrading to a multi-needle machine like a SEWTECH or investing in magnetic hoops will shift your focus from "fighting the materials" to "managing the production," allowing you to run batches with less physical strain and higher consistency.