TikTok Logo Patch on a Brother PR670E: The Floating Method for a Clean Satin Border (with a 100×100mm Magnetic Hoop)

Supplies Needed for Machine Embroidered Patches

Creating a retail-quality patch edge isn't magic; it is an engineering challenge. You are essentially asking your machine to bind a raw, unstable fabric edge with thousands of high-tension stitches without the fabric shifting a single millimeter.

In this "Master Class" tutorial, we will deconstruct a two-stage patch workflow demonstrated on a Brother Entrepreneur 6-Plus PR670E: Stitch, Cut, Float, and Border.

By the end of this guide, you will understand not just how to do it, but why specific variables—like hoop tension and stabilizer choice—dictate your success.

What you’ll learn (and why it matters)

• The Architecture of a Patch: How to build a stable foundation on woven fabric that supports heavy logo density.
• The "Zero-Fray" Cut: How to trim your patch chemically and mechanically to prevent the dreaded "white fuzz" poke-through.
• The "Drum-Tight" Float: How to use a magnetic embroidery hoop to suspend your patch on water-soluble film with zero movement.
• The Finishing Protocol: How to seal edges safely without scorching your hard work.

If you are transitioning from hobby projects to selling patches, this workflow is your gateway to scalability. It allows you to prep multiple patch bases in advance and run the borders in a batch—provided your hooping is consistent.

Supplies shown in the video

Machine & Tools

• Brother Entrepreneur 6-Plus PR670E (High-speed multi-needle machine).
• 100×100mm (4x4") Magnetic Hoop: Critical for holding film taut without distortion.
• Curved Embroidery Scissors (Double-Curved preferred): For precise trimming.
• Precision Tweezers: For film removal.
• Lighter or Heat Tool: For sealing thermoplastic fibers.

Consumables & Materials

• Base Fabric: Black Twill (Poly-cotton blend recommended for stability).
• Embroidery Thread: 40wt Polyester (Black, Cyan, Pink, White).
• Stabilizer: Heavy-duty clear water-soluble film (80 microns / 3-mil recommended).
• Adhesive: Gunold KK 100 or similar temporary spray.

Hidden consumables & prep checks (the stuff that prevents 80% of “mystery problems”)

In my 20 years of experience, I have learned that 90% of patch failures happen before you press "Start."

• Needle Condition: You need a Sharp point (75/11), not a Ballpoint. Inspect the tip by dragging it gently across an old pair of pantyhose or fine silk; if it snags, it’s trash. A burred needle will shred your satin border.
• Bobbin Case Hygiene: Blow out the bobbin case. A single speck of lint under the tension spring will cause the bobbin thread to vomit onto the back of your patch, creating a bird's nest.
• Scissor Sharpness: If your scissors "chew" or fold the fabric instead of slicing it cleanly, you will leave jagged fibers that the border stitch cannot cover.
• Lubrication: If you haven't oiled your machine hook race in the last 40 hours of run time, do it now. Friction creates heat; heat snaps thread.

Prep Checklist (do this before you stitch anything)

Run this pre-flight check. If you skip these, you are gambling with your materials.

• Machine Check: Thread path is clear; bobbin area is lint-free.
• Bobbin: Load a fresh, evenly wound bobbin (L-type or A-type per manual).
• Needle: Install a brand new 75/11 Sharp needle.
• Design File: Ensure your cut line and placement line are perfectly centered in your design software.
• Adhesive: Shake your spray can well to prevent "sputtering" globs of glue.
• Environment: Clear your workspace of magnetic debris (pins/needles) if using magnetic hoops.

Warning: Magnetic Safety. The magnets in commercial-grade hoops are industrial strength. They can pinch fingers severely or damage mechanical watched/pacemakers. Handle frames by the edges and never leave your fingers between the magnets when snapping them shut.

Step 1: Stitching the Base and Logo Design

We begin by creating the "Face" of the patch. Our goal here is stability.

1) Hoop the black fabric in the magnetic frame

Secure your black twill in the 100x100mm hoop.

The Sensory Check:

• Tactile: Run your fingers across the fabric. It should feel taut but not stretched like spandex.
• Visual: Look at the weave of the twill. The grain lines should be perfectly straight (vertical and horizontal). If they look like waves, you have distorted the fabric, and your round logo will come out oval.

Why Magnetic Hoops? Traditional screw hoops often leave permanent "hoop burn" (crushed fibers) on dark twill. A high-quality magnetic hoop clamps flatly, preserving the fabric texture outside the stitch area.

2) Stitch the black background circle

The machine lays down a fill stitch (Tatami) to create a uniform canvas.

Expert Note: Even though the fabric is black, stitching a black background ensures the light reflects evenly across the entire patch surface. It also "locks" the fabric grain, preventing distortion during the logo stitching.

Sweet Spot Speed: For this fill, you can run your machine at 800-900 SPM (Stitches Per Minute).

3) Stitch the logo layers (cyan, pink, then white)

The PR670E executes the color changes automatically.

The "Glitch" Effect: This design relies on precise registration between the cyan, pink, and white layers to create a 3D effect.

Troubleshooting Mid-Print:

• If you see gaps between the colors: Your stabilizer is too loose or your fabric hooping wasn't tight enough.
• If the white layer looks thin: Your white thread tension might be too high. Loosen the top tension slightly until the stitch looks plump and satiny.

When using a brother pr670e embroidery machine or similar multi-needle unit, listen to the rhythm. A consistent humm-humm-humm is good. A rattling or chopping sound implies the needle is struggling to penetrate the dense fill layers.

Step 2: Cutting and Preparing for the Border

This is the surgical phase. Your hand-eye coordination here dictates the quality of the final edge.

4) Unhoop and cut the patch close to the stitched edge

Remove the twill from the hoop. Using your sharp curved scissors, trim around the black circle.

How Close? (The 1.5mm Rule)

• Too Wide (>3mm): The borders won't cover the raw fabric, leaving an ugly flange.
• Too Close (<0.5mm): The satin stitches will fall off the edge, causing the stabilizer to perforate and the patch to fall out.
• The Sweet Spot: Aim for 1mm to 1.5mm of black fabric extending past the stitches.

Sensory Cue: Good cutting should sound like a crisp snip-snip, not a grinding gnaw-gnaw. If you have to saw at the fabric, stop and get new scissors.

Hidden Consumable: Fray Check. (Optional) If your fabric frays easily, dab a tiny amount of seam sealant on the edge and let it dry before proceeding.

Step 3: The Floating Technique with Magnetic Hoops

Now we enter the critical "Float." We will float the cut patch on a layer of water-soluble film. This requires the film to be absolutely rigid.

5) Hoop clear water-soluble film in the magnetic hoop

Lay your heavy-duty film over the bottom frame and snap the top magnetic frame into place.

The "Drum" Test (Critically Important): Flick the film with your finger. You should hear a high-pitched "ping" or "thump" similar to a drum.

• If it sounds floppy or dull: Re-hoop it. A loose film will bounce up and down with the needle, causing skipped stitches and wavy borders.

This is where terms like magnetic hooping station come into play for professionals—using a station ensures you apply even downward pressure every single time, guaranteeing that "drum-tight" result instantly.

6) Spray adhesive and float the patch using the placement outline

Load the borders design. Run the "Placement Stitch" directly onto the film. This shows you exactly where the patch must go.

Execution:

1. Take your hoop off the machine (never spray near the machine gears!).
2. Lightly mist the back of your cut patch with KK 100. Do not saturate it.
3. Align the patch exactly inside the stitched placement circle on the film.
4. Pressure: Rub the patch firmly from the center outward to bond it to the film.

Warning: Adhesive Danger. If you use too much spray, the needle will get gummy, causing thread shredding. If you use too little, the patch will fly off mid-stitch. Use short bursts from 8-10 inches away.

Decision Tree: Stabilizer choice for the border stage

Choosing the right substrate is half the battle.

• Scenario A: Standard Patches (Most Common)
  • Choice: Heavy Water-Soluble Film (80 micron).
  • Why: It disappears completely with water, leaving a clean edge on both sides.
• Scenario B: Heavy stiff patches
  • Choice: Tear-away Stabilizer.
  • Why: Cheaper and stiffer, but you will see white fuzzies on the edge of the finished patch that must be picked off.
• Scenario C: Patch with fine details
  • Choice: Sticky Back Water-Soluble.
  • Why: Holds the patch chemically without spray, but is more expensive.

When learning how to use magnetic embroidery hoop systems, start with the Heavy Film method (Scenario A) as it offers the most professional finish for beginners.

Step 4: Creating the Satin Stitch Edge

We are now ready for the Satin Column. This stitch has high density (approx 0.4mm spacing) and acts as a physical clamp on the edge of your fabric.

7) Stitch the satin border directly over the cut edge

Lower your sewing speed! Drop your speed to 600 SPM. High speed creates vibration which can shake the floated patch loose.

The "360-Degree" Watch: Do not walk away. Watch the first full rotation.

• Visual Check: Is the needle piercing half on the patch and half on the film? This is the goal.
• Drift Check: If the border starts drifting inward (on the patch) or outward (into the air), stop immediately.

Why Use a Floating Hoop? This floating embroidery hoop technique eliminates the need to hoop the thick patch fabric directly, which is often impossible with stiff backings. The magnetic frame holds the thin film, and the film holds the patch.

Operation Checklist (run this during the border stitch)

• Speed: Manually reduced to ~600 SPM.
• Adhesion: Verify patch edges are not lifting before the needle approaches.
• Bobbin: Do you have enough bobbin thread to finish? (Running out mid-border creates a visible splice point).
• Sound: Listen for the "Click-Click" of the needle. A "Thud-Thud" means the needle is dulling or hitting adhesive buildup.

Finishing Touches: Removing Stabilizer and Heat Sealing

The heavy lifting is done. Now for the detailed cleanup.

8) Pop out the patch and remove remaining film

Remove the hoop. Gently tear the heavy film away from the patch.

• Technique: Support the stitches with your thumb while tearing to avoid distorting the satin edge.

9) Detail clean-up with tweezers

Use precision tweezers to pluck any stubborn bits of film trapped between the satin stitches.

10) Heat-seal fuzz and loose threads (quickly)

Pass a lighter flame quickly along the edge.

• Action: Move fast (1 foot per second). You just want to melt the micro-fuzz, not burn the thread.
• Alternative: Use a thread burner tool for more control.

Results: What “Done Right” Looks Like

• The Edge: Smooth, raised, and dense. No fabric poking through.
• The Shape: Perfectly round, not egg-shaped.
• The Feel: The patch should feel slightly stiff but flexible.

By mastering hooping for embroidery machine workflows like this, you reduce the physical labor of screwing and unscrewing frames, allowing you to focus on the art.

Tool-Upgrade Path (When It’s Worth It)

In the lifecycle of an embroiderer, you will hit pain points. Here is how to diagnose when to solve them with cash vs. skill.

1. Pain Point: "My hands hurt and hoop burn is ruining my velvet/twill items."
   • Diagnosis: Traditional screw hoops rely on friction and physical force.
   • The Upgrade: SEWTECH Magnetic Hoops. They clamp automatically without force-dragging the fabric.
   • ROI: Immediate reduction in damaged goods (seconds) and wrist strain.
2. Pain Point: "I spend more time changing thread colors than stitching."
   • Diagnosis: You have outgrown your single-needle machine.
   • The Upgrade: SEWTECH Multi-Needle Systems.
   • ROI: If you produce >10 patches a week, the time saved on thread changes pays for the machine lease.
3. Pain Point: "My patches are inconsistent shapes."
   • Diagnosis: Human error in hooping alignment.
   • The Upgrade: Magnetic Hooping Station.
   • ROI: Standardizes placement so every patch is identical.

Troubleshooting (Symptom → Likely Cause → Fix)

A Note on Compatibility

Before buying upgrades, verify compatibility. For example, a magnetic hoop for brother PR series machines uses a specific bracket arm that is different from Brother consumer machines (NV series). Always check your specific model number on the supplier's compatibility chart to ensure a safe, lock-tight fit.