Stitch Two Kimberbell Blocks in One 5x7 Hoop: A Calm, Clean “Mind Your Mummy” + Border Block 6 Workflow (Brother/Baby Lock)

Mastering In-the-Hoop Quilting: The Zero-Distortion Guide to 5x7 Batch Processing

When a project asks you to quilt in-the-hoop (ITH) and keep your blocks perfectly square, it is normal to feel a tension that goes beyond just the thread. You are dealing with physics: fitting two distinct blocks into one 5x7 hooping means managing fabric grain, stabilizer drag, and precise alignment, all while the machine is moving at 600+ stitches per minute.

Take a breath. This workflow is not magic; it is engineering. Once you understand the "why" behind each placement line and hoop constraint, the process becomes not just repeatable, but scalable.

In this industry-grade guide, I am rebuilding the exact process demonstrated for Kimberbell’s “Home is Where the Haunt Is” pillow—specifically the “Mind Your Mummy” block and Border Block #6—stitched with the Wavy 3 quilting design. We will arrange both in a single 5x7 hoop. I will keep the steps faithful to the logic shown in the video, but I will layer on the veteran pro-level habits—the sensory checks, the safety protocols, and the equipment upgrades—that prevent puckers, crooked trims, and wasted fabric.

Don’t Panic—Your 5x7 Hoop Layout Is the Whole Game

The moment you decide to stitch two blocks in one hooping, your success depends 80% on layout discipline and only 20% on the stitching itself. If the digital file isn't physically viable within your machine's embroidery limits (usually 130mm x 180mm for a standard 5x7), you will catch the presser foot on the frame.

In the reference workflow, the machine interface resembles a Brother/Baby Lock system (likely a Luminaire or Solaris). The critical move here is "telling" the machine the truth about your boundary first.

The Digital Setup Protocol (Action-First):

1. Set the Boundary: Switch the hoop size setting to 5x7 immediately. Do not design in an open field; force the screen to show you the physical limits.
2. Import the Asset: Load the quilting design “Wavy 3” (PES format).
3. Verify Dimensions: Confirm the design size is 2 x 4 inches.
4. Orient: Choose the horizontal version.
5. Rotate: Rotate the Wavy 3 design 90 degrees so it aligns with the vertical axis of your hoop.
6. Position Block A: Move this design to the absolute top of the hoop area.
7. Duplicate & Position Block B: Copy the design, center it, and move the copy to the absolute bottom of the hoop area.
8. Overlay Text: Add the text design “Mind Your Mummy” and align it with the top quilting block. (Note: It may look "off a smidge" on screen due to pixel rendering, but trust the numerical centering).

The "Jump-Stitch" Trap (Process Engineering)

When you duplicate designs on a machine screen, the default stitch logic often follows the order of creation: Design A $\to$ Design B $\to$ Top Text. This creates a "ping-pong" effect where the machine travels back and forth across the hoop.

• Symptom: Long jump stitches (drag lines) connecting the top block to the bottom block.
• Physics: These long threads can snag the presser foot or get caught under the next stitch pass, causing tension nests.
• The Fix: If your machine supports Color Sort or Stitch Reordering (common on high-end household and SEWTECH multi-needle embroidery machines), use it to group steps.
• The Manual Fix: If you cannot reorder, stitch the first block completely, then load the second. Do not fight the machine's logic if it risks ruining the fabric.

The “Hidden” Prep Jeannie Doesn’t Over-Explain: Muslin, Spray, and Flatness

The video demonstrates using muslin as stabilizer. In the world of commercial embroidery, this is a specific technique called "using a carrier." You are essentially building a mini-quilt sandwich inside the hoop.

Here is the part experienced stitchers know: Hooping is not just about "tightness"; it is about Equalized Radial Tension. If you pull the muslin tighter on the bias (diagonal) than on the grain (straight), your final square block will pop out of the hoop looking like a diamond or a trapezoid.

Sensory Anchor - The Tactile Check: When you hoop the muslin, tap it. It should sound like a dull thud (like a cardboard box), not a high-pitched ping (like a snare drum). If it is too tight, you distort the weave. If it is too loose, you get registration errors.

If you are doing this volume of repetitive hooping, a stable mechanical setup minimizes variables. A dedicated hooping station for machine embroidery provides a consistent fulcrum, allowing you to use your body weight to hoop rather than wrist strength, significantly reducing the "wrestling match" feeling.

Prep Checklist: The "Pre-Flight" Inspection

• Base: Muslin hooped flat in a 5x7 hoop (Grain lines are straight; no bubble in the center).
• Materials: Batting and Background fabric pieces cut roughly 1 inch larger than the placement box.
• Adhesion: Temporary Spray Adhesive (e.g., KK100 or 505) ready. Shake the can for 10 seconds before use.
• Tooling: Double curved applique scissors (Duckbill) ready for close trimming.
• Consumable: New Needle installed (Size 75/11 or 90/14 sharp). Do not start a quilting project with a dull needle.
• Thread Staging: Orange on top (for placement visibility), White and Black bobbins on standby.

Hooping Muslin in a 5x7 Hoop Without “Hoop Burn” or Distortion

The video shows the muslin hooped taut.

However, traditional friction hoops (inner and outer rings) can damage delicate fabrics or leave "hoop burn" (crushed fibers) that never irons out. This is a friction problem.

The Upgrade Path: Friction vs. Magnetism For production runs or sensitive fabrics, many professionals search for terms like magnetic embroidery hoops because they solve the friction issue fundamentally. Magnetic frames clamp straight down rather than pulling the fabric sideways. This prevents the "distortion creep" that happens when you tighten the screw on a standard hoop. If you are stitching daily, this is a Level 2 Tool Upgrade that saves both fabric and wrist health.

> Warning (Mechanical Safety): Keep fingers clear when lowering the presser foot and when trimming inside the hoop. Double curved applique scissors are incredibly sharp—always cut away from your hand. Never, under any circumstances, trim fabric while the machine is paused but the needle is still down. Raise the needle first.

Batting Placement Lines: The Cleanest Way to Build the Sandwich

Once the design is set, the operation begins.

1. Placement Stitch: Machine runs the outline (Orange thread).
2. Batting Application: Spray the wrong side of the batting (light mist, 8-10 inches away). Place it over the stitched box.
3. Tack-Down: Machine stitches the batting down.
4. The Critical Trim: Trim the excess batting.

Expert Tip on Trimming: You must trim close to the stitching, but do not cut the thread.

• Sensory Anchor: Run your finger over the trim line. If you feel a "bump" or "ridge," you didn't trim close enough. This ridge will create a visible shadow in your final quilt block.
• The Angle: Hold your applique scissors flat against the stabilizer. The "duckbill" protects the bottom layer.

Background Fabric + Wavy 3 Quilting: When Skipping the Tack-Down Is Safe

The video demonstrates the next layer: Background Fabric.

1. Spray the back of the fabric.
2. Cover the batting area.
3. Variable Strategy: For the first block, she runs a tack-down. For Border Block 6, she intentionally skips the fabric tack-down and proceeds directly to the quilting stitch.

Engineering Analysis: Is this safe? Skipping the tack-down relies 100% on the shear strength of your spray adhesive.

• Safe Condition: Cotton fabric, fresh spray adhesive, flat batting.
• Unsafe Condition: Thick flannel, plush fleece, or "dried out" spray. In these cases, the presser foot acts like a snowplow and will push a wave of fabric in front of it, ruining the block.

The Commercial Solution: If your workflow involves constantly adjusting fabric layers or "floating" materials, this is where a magnetic hoops for brother luminaire shines. Because you can lift the magnets instantly to smooth out a wrinkle without un-hooping the entire project, it gives you a safety net when skipping tack-down stitches.

“Mind Your Mummy” Stitch-Out: Thread Tension and Bobbin Logic

After quilt-stitching the background, the machine moves to the text.

• Video Plan: Scroll detail (Black) $\to$ Text "MIND YOUR MUMMY" (Charcoal).
• Bobbin Strategy: Jeannie swaps to a black bobbin for the scroll to ensure no white thread "pokies" show on top.

Pro Tension Calibration: Small lettering (under 5mm) is the stress test for your tension.

• Speed Limit: Even if your machine can do 1000 SPM, slow down to 600 SPM for small lettering. High speed increases vibration and reduces accuracy on tight curves.
• The "H" Test: Look at the back of a satin column (like the letter 'I' or 'l'). You should see the top thread pulled to the back by about 30% on each side (the "1/3 rule"). If you see only bobbin thread on the back, your top tension is too loose.

Border Block 6: Repeatability and Flow

The workflow repeats for the second block in the same hoop.

1. Placement $\to$ Batting $\to$ Trim.
2. Fabric $\to$ Quilting.

Jeannie switches back to a white bobbin for the green thread. Principle: In commercial embroidery, "Bobbin matching" is a luxury. "Bobbin balance" is a necessity. Unless the back of the item is visible (like a towel), use a standard white bobbin (60wt or 90wt) for consistently smooth tension.

The Two Cut Lines You Must Not Ignore

The file concludes by stitching two cut lines—vertical guides at the top and bottom. Do not skip these. In professional manufacturing, these are called "registration marks." They are the only truth you have. The fabric edge is not straight; the hoop edge is irrelevant. Only the stitches laid down by the machine are mathematically accurate relative to the design.

Pressing on a Wool Mat: Thermal Recovery

Remove the hoop. The fabric is now stressed and potentially distorted from the tension. The Recovery Process:

1. Place face down on a wool mat.
2. Press (don't rub) with steam.
3. Critical Step: Let it cool completely before moving it.

Physics: Cotton fibers stretch when hot and damp. If you pick up a hot block, you warp it. Cooling "sets" the memory of the fabric back to flat.

Rotary Trimming: The "Measure Twice, Slice Once" Moment

The video targets a final size of 2.5" x 4.5".

The Safe Trimming Protocol:

1. Anchor: Align your quilting ruler's 1/4" mark exactly on the stitched cut guide.
2. Slice: Cut the first long edge.
3. Rotate: Rotate the block. Align the clean cut edge on the 2.5" measurement of your ruler.
4. Verify: Check the stitched center line. Is it centered?
5. Slice: Cut the second edge.

> Warning (Blade Safety): Rotary cutters cause more injuries in sewing rooms than needles. Keep your non-cutting hand strictly away from the blade path ("Spider Hand" technique—fingers arched, not flat). Always engage the blade guard immediately after the cut.

Setup Checklist (Before Trimming)

• Block is cool to the touch (thermal set complete).
• Cutting mat is stable (no wobble).
• Rotary blade is fresh (nicks in the blade cause skipping and dangerous force slips).
• You have visually confirmed the target size (2.5" x 4.5") on the ruler before exposing the blade.

A Simple Stabilizer Decision Tree

The video uses muslin effectively, but different projects require different physics. Use this logic flow to decide your backing:

Decision Tree: Stabilizer Selection Strategy

1. Are you quilting stable Woven Cotton?
   • Yes $\to$ Muslin or Tearaway is sufficient.
   • No (I am using Knit/Jersey) $\to$ Go to step 2.
2. Is the design dense (lots of text/satin)?
   • Yes $\to$ You must use Cutaway stabilizer. Muslin/Tearaway will tear under needle perforation, ruining the text registration.
   • No (Just light quilting) $\to$ Poly-mesh or No-Show Mesh is adequate.
3. Are you stitching "floating" pieces (no hoop)?
   • Yes $\to$ Use Sticky Stabilizer or heavy spray on Cutaway.

Troubleshooting: The "Why Did This Happen?" Matrix

Even pros encounter issues. Here is how to diagnose them by symptom.

The Upgrade Path: Speed, Scale, and Profit

If you stitch one pillow a season, the standard 5x7 hoop and muslin method is perfect. However, if you are stitching 50 blocks for a guild swap, or selling kits on Etsy, the hooping and trimming stages are your bottleneck.

When to Upgrade Your Tools:

• The Pain: Wrist pain from tightening screws.
  • The Upgrade: magnetic embroidery hoops for brother. They eliminate the screw-tightening motion entirely.
• The Pain: Reworking blocks because they are crooked.
  • The Upgrade: A dedicated Hooping Station.
• The Pain: Changing thread 20 times per project.
  • The Upgrade: A SEWTECH Multi-Needle Machine. When you move from a single-needle to a multi-needle, you set the colors once and let the machine run all layers without interruption. This is the shift from "Hobbyist" to "Producer."

> Warning (Magnetic Safety): Magnetic frames generally use Neodymium magnets, which are extremely powerful. Keep them away from pacemakers, implanted medical devices, and credit cards. Do not let two magnets snap together freely—they can pinch skin severely.

Operation Checklist (End-of-Run QC)

• Visual: Quilting lines are parallel to the fabric grain.
• Registration: Text is centered in the block (use a clear ruler to check).
• Structural: No puckers or "pleats" folded into the stitch line.
• Dimensional: Final block measures exactly 2.5" x 4.5" (or project spec).
• Cleanliness: All jump stitches trimmed; stabilizer residue removed.

The “Touch Test”: What Success Feels Like

After trimming, the video shows the finished "Mind Your Mummy" block.

A finished block ready for assembly should feel stable but soft. It should lie dead flat on the table without curling corners. When you pull gently on the edges, the stitches should not pop or separate.

If your blocks are coming out square and consistent, you have mastered the engineering. From here, it is just repetition—and repetition is where smart tooling (magnetic hoops, sharp blades, and multi-needle machines) pays you back in time saved and frustration avoided.

FAQ

• Q: How do I set up a 5x7 embroidery hoop layout to stitch two ITH quilting blocks without hitting the hoop boundary on a Brother/Baby Lock-style screen?
  A: Lock the machine to the 5x7 hoop boundary first, then position duplicates at the absolute top and bottom before adding text.
  • Set: Change hoop size setting to 5x7 before importing or moving anything.
  • Verify: Confirm the quilting design size is 2 x 4 inches, choose the horizontal version, then rotate 90° as shown in the workflow.
  • Position: Move Block A to the absolute top of the hoop area; duplicate and move Block B to the absolute bottom; then align the “Mind Your Mummy” text with the top block.
  • Success check: The on-screen boundary shows clear clearance—no part of either block or text touches the edge of the 5x7 field.
  • If it still fails: Avoid forcing placement—stitch one block per hooping rather than risking the presser foot catching the frame.
• Q: How do I prevent long jump stitches when duplicating quilting designs (like “Wavy 3”) for two blocks in one 5x7 hoop on a Brother/Baby Lock-style embroidery machine?
  A: Reorder/sort the stitch sequence if the machine supports it, or stitch one block at a time to avoid “ping-pong” travel.
  • Use: Enable Color Sort or Stitch Reordering (if available) to group steps so the machine doesn’t travel top-to-bottom repeatedly.
  • Watch: Preview the stitch path after duplicating—look for travel lines connecting the two blocks.
  • Choose: If reordering is not possible, complete the first block, then load and stitch the second block instead of fighting the default order.
  • Success check: There are no long connecting threads spanning the hoop between the top and bottom blocks.
  • If it still fails: Stop and remove the travel threads before continuing—long jumps can snag and trigger tension nests.
• Q: How do I hoop muslin as a stabilizer carrier in a 5x7 hoop without fabric distortion or hoop burn during ITH quilting?
  A: Hoop for even, balanced tension (not maximum tightness) and avoid over-tightening friction hoops that crush fibers.
  • Align: Keep muslin grain lines straight in the hoop; avoid pulling harder on the bias (diagonal).
  • Check: Tap the hooped muslin—aim for a dull “thud,” not a high-pitched “ping.”
  • Adjust: If hoop burn is a recurring issue, consider switching from a screw-tightened friction hoop to a magnetic clamping frame to reduce sideways drag.
  • Success check: The hooped muslin looks flat with no center bubble, and the block does not come out diamond-shaped or wavy after stitching.
  • If it still fails: Re-hoop with grain alignment prioritized, and consider using a hooping station for repeatable placement and tension.
• Q: How close should I trim batting after tack-down stitches in ITH quilting blocks to avoid ridges showing through the finished block?
  A: Trim very close to the tack-down line without cutting the stitches or thread.
  • Trim: Use double curved applique (duckbill) scissors and keep the blades flat against the stabilizer so the duckbill protects the bottom layer.
  • Feel: Run a finger around the trimmed edge and remove any “bump” or “ridge” you can feel.
  • Avoid: Do not cut the tack-down thread—cutting it can let batting shift during quilting.
  • Success check: The edge feels smooth to the touch, and no shadow/ridge line telegraphs through the quilted area.
  • If it still fails: Re-check scissor angle and lighting—most ridges come from trimming too far away from the stitch line.
• Q: When is it safe to skip the background fabric tack-down stitch in ITH quilting (like the Border Block 6 step) and go straight to quilting stitches?
  A: Skipping fabric tack-down is only safe when spray adhesive is fresh and the fabric/batting lay perfectly flat; otherwise, tack it down.
  • Spray: Apply a light mist to the wrong side of the fabric (and use adhesive that has not “dried out”).
  • Assess: Avoid skipping tack-down on thick or plush materials (flannel, fleece) where the presser foot can push a wave of fabric.
  • Smooth: If wrinkles appear mid-process, pause and smooth the fabric—work carefully to keep layers flat.
  • Success check: The quilting stitch runs without shifting, pleats, or a fabric “wave” forming in front of the presser foot.
  • If it still fails: Add the tack-down step on the next run; relying on adhesive alone is often the point of failure when shifting occurs.
• Q: How do I check embroidery thread tension for small lettering like “MIND YOUR MUMMY” to prevent bobbin pokies and messy satin columns?
  A: Slow down and use the 1/3-rule on the back of satin columns to confirm balanced tension before committing to the full text run.
  • Slow: Reduce speed to about 600 SPM for small lettering to improve accuracy on tight curves.
  • Inspect: Check the back of a satin column (like an “I”)—top thread should pull to the back about 30% on each side (the 1/3 rule).
  • Stage: If needed for appearance, use a matching bobbin strategy (the workflow uses black bobbin for the scroll where white would show).
  • Success check: Letter edges look crisp on top, and the back shows a balanced mix rather than bobbin dominating the entire column.
  • If it still fails: Re-thread with presser foot up (so thread seats in tension discs) and confirm the thread stayed in the take-up lever path.
• Q: What are the key safety rules for trimming inside a hooped ITH project and handling magnetic embroidery frames during batch quilting?
  A: Treat trimming and magnets as pinch-and-cut hazards: raise the needle first, cut away from hands, and control magnet snap.
  • Raise: Never trim while the machine is paused with the needle still down—raise the needle before bringing scissors into the hoop area.
  • Cut: Use duckbill scissors and always cut away from your hand; keep fingers clear when lowering the presser foot.
  • Control: Do not let magnetic frame magnets snap together freely; keep fingers out of the pinch zone and keep magnets away from pacemakers/implanted devices and credit cards.
  • Success check: Trimming is clean with no accidental nicks in stitch lines, and magnets are placed/removed without painful pinches or sudden snapping.
  • If it still fails: Slow the workflow down—most injuries happen during “just one quick trim” moments; reset the project to a safe position before continuing.