Split, Spread, and Stitch Smarter: Embrilliance Enthusiast + Brother PR1055X Tricks That Save Real Time

If you’ve ever loaded a “two-block” embroidery file and realized both blocks are actually one locked object, you know the sinking feeling. You can’t move one block without dragging the other. They sit awkwardly close together. And the instructions expect you to perform gymnastics—taping fabric up and out of the way while the machine stitches inches from your fingers.

That workflow is manageable for a single hobby project. It is absolutely miserable when you are trying to stay efficient on a multi-needle machine for a client order.

As an educator, I often see operators fighting their software rather than mastering their workflow. In this guide, I will deconstruct the exact method shown in the video: dissecting the design into separate objects, spacing them for clean trimming (physics matters here!), sorting colors to minimize machine downtime, and utilizing the Brother PR1055X screen to program "flip-flop" pauses.

Split combined embroidery designs before they waste your hoop space (Embrilliance Enthusiast reality check)

The video begins with a classic trap: the design looks like two separate blocks on your screen, but the Object Panel reveals a single, monolithic digital file. Clicking the top block highlights the bottom one. They are fused.

Why does this matter? Because "Digital Surgery" is the only way to regain control. When you split these blocks, you unlock three critical capabilities:

1. Physical Safety: You create real spacing, eliminating the need to tape fabric near moving needles.
2. Geometric Precision: You can keep both blocks centered on the hoop’s vertical axis (vital for avoiding skew).
3. Color Efficiency: You can group colors across both blocks, reducing thread changes.

One comment that comes up again and again is how fast Embrilliance “pays for itself.” That’s not hype—time saved at the machine is the first place you feel it.

Note on Modules: The creator correctly notes that while Essentials covers the basics, the specific "Stitch Editing" tool required here is a feature of the Embrilliance Enthusiast module.

Lock the hoop size first in Embrilliance Preferences (360×200mm multi-needle hoop)

Before you touch a single stitch, you must align your software reality with your hardware reality.

In the video, Becky navigates to Preferences > Hoops and selects the 360 × 200 mm multi-needle hoop. That hoop boundary on the grid is your “do not cross” line. It determines your spacing limits and your trimming allowance.

If you’re running a production workflow, this is also where you make a strategic choice:

• Maximize Output: Use the largest hoop to fit more items per run.
• Minimize Struggle: Use a smaller hoop if the fabric is difficult to tension.

And yes—if hooping is the part that slows you down or leaves "hoop burn" marks on delicate items, this is where many shops start considering machine embroidery hoops upgrades that reduce handling time. Upgrading to magnetic frames early in your journey can save hours of cumulative frustration.

Prep Checklist (Do not skip this)

• File Inspection: Confirm your design is "combined" (Object panel shows 1 item vs. 2).
• Hoop boundary: Set Preferences to 360×200mm (or your specific machine's max field).
• Trimming Strategy: Decide your margin now. (Video recommendation: 0.5-inch trim allowance).
• Consumables Check: Do you have enough cutaway/mesh? Is your needle fresh?
• Safety Net: Save a copy of the original file name so you always have an untouched version.

Use Embrilliance Enthusiast “Edit Stitches” to cut one block into a new design (the icon that changes everything)

Here is the core maneuver. In Embrilliance Enthusiast, locate the Edit Stitches icon (a distinctive triangle with a dot). In the video, Becky uses the Rectangular Select Tool to draw a box around the top block stitches, then executes the command: “Cut stitches and separate into a new design.”

That single command turns one locked file into two editable pieces—your original and a new object labeled “Split.”

A viewer asked whether adding modules will overwhelm a computer. The explanation in the video is reassuring: the platform is installed once; your serial number simply unlocks the icons.

Troubleshooting: If you are looking for this icon and cannot find it, you are likely running Essentials or a different module. Stitch editing is an identifying feature of Enthusiast.

Warning: Stitch editing is powerful, but dangerous. It is easy to accidentally delete a section or sever a tie-off stitch. Always use "Save As" effectively creating a new version (e.g., Project_Split_v1), so you never destroy your source file.

Spread the blocks 2 inches apart so you can trim cleanly (and stop taping fabric out of the way)

Once split, turn off stitch edit mode. We move back to standard "Object Mode" for safety. Becky drags:

• The “Split” block upward.
• The original block downward.

She establishes a 2-inch gap between them. This isn't random. You need to trim each finished block to 0.5 inch outside the stitch line. The grid helps you verify this spacing.

This is an experienced operator move: spacing isn’t about aesthetics—it’s about operator ergonomics after the stitching is done.

The Physics: Why Spacing Matters

Fabric under tension behaves like a drum skin. When two dense stitch zones sit too close together, they pull on each other. This creates a "valley" of distorted fabric between them. By giving the blocks breathing room:

1. Distortion Control: You reduce the "push-pull" effect ripple.
2. Cutting Safety: You reduce the risk of your rotary cutter slipping and slicing the adjacent embroidery.

If you routinely fight shifting or hoop burn during large-hoop work, that’s often a hooping system issue, not a talent issue. Many operators move from traditional clamping to magnetic embroidery hoops when they want faster loading and more consistent tension across repeated runs without the "drum skin" distortion.

Color Sort in Embrilliance Utility to cut thread changes from 16 to 7 (without destroying your original)

Now for the payoff. Becky selects both objects (Ctrl+A), then goes to Utility > Color Sort.

The video shows the design being reduced by 9 color changes, taking it from 16 stops down to 7 stops. On a multi-needle machine, this saves roughly 5-10 minutes of machine idle time per run.

The most important habit here is also the easiest to ignore:

• Do not click “Save” inside the Color Sort box immediately.
• Click “New View” first.

This opens a temporary tab showing the result. Inspect it. Did the layering logic hold up? Only then do you save.

From a shop-owner perspective, color sorting is one of the fastest ways to reduce "babysitting." Less stopping means:

• Fewer chances for a thread break during a trim/start cycle.
• More time for you to prep the next hoop.

If you’re running multi hooping machine embroidery sessions (multiple hoopings to complete a set), those saved minutes stack up to hours by the end of the week.

Save the stitch file correctly (PES in the video) and load it on the Brother PR1055X via USB

After spacing and sorting, save the file to a USB drive using File > Save Stitch File As.

In the workflow, she confirms the file type matches the machine (PES for Brother) and saves.

On the Brother PR1055X home screen, she taps USB, selects the file. The machine flags an orientation conflict (the hoop is vertical, the design is horizontal) and prompts a 90-degree rotate. She accepts, then taps Set.

Sensory Check: Look at the screen. Does the gap between the blocks look correct? If they are touching, you loaded the wrong version.

Thread assignment on Brother PR1055X: don’t confuse “color change numbers” with “spool numbers”

This is the number one source of confusion for new multi-needle owners.

• Design Steps (1-7): The chronological order of events in the file.
• Needle Bar/Spool (1-10): The physical location of the thread on your machine.

Becky walks through assigning the design steps to the physical spools. Example from video: Spool 1 is Yellow. Spool 9 is Orange. She tells the machine: "For Design Step 1, use Spool 1. For Design Step 5, use Spool 9."

Pro Tip: Determine a "Standard Rack" for your shop (e.g., White is always #1, Black is always #10). This reduces the mental load of re-threading for every project.

The “flip-flop” reserve stop logic on Brother PR1055X (hand icon goes BEFORE the step)

This logic is counter-intuitive for computer users who are used to "End of Paragraph" logic.

On the Brother PR series:

• You utilize the Reserve Stop (Hand Icon).
• You must place the Hand Icon BEFORE the step you want to pause for.

In the video, she places a stop so the machine pauses before Step 2 (to place batting) and before Step 3 (to place fabric).

If you put the stop after Step 2, the machine will stitch Step 2 and immediately start Step 3 without giving you time to place your fabric.

Warning: Keep hands clear. When placing batting or fabric during reserve stops, keep fingers and tools away from the needle path. Multi-needle machines accelerate instantly. A moment of distraction can result in a severe injury.

Mark crosshairs on stabilizer, oil daily, and run at 1000 spm only when the setup is stable

Becky executes three critical "Pre-Flight" checks:

1. Marking: She draws crosshairs on the stabilizer to match the hoop grid. This ensures the fabric lands exactly where the software expects it.
2. Bobbin: A brand new Fil-Tec magnetic bobbin is installed.
3. Lubrication: A drop of oil on the hook race (a mandatory daily habit for rotaries).

The screen displays:

• Speed: 1000 spm
• Stitch count: 18,049
• Time: ~34 minutes
  

The "Speed Trap"

1000 SPM (Stitches Per Minute) is standard for pros, but if you are new, aim for a Sweet Spot of 600-800 SPM. Speed amplifies errors.

Sensory Check: Listen to your machine. At 1000 SPM, it should hum rhythmically. If you hear a sharp, metallic "clack-clack" or a thudding vibration, stop immediately. That is the sound of tension failure or needle deflection.

Setup Checklist (Right before "Start")

• Orientation: Are the blocks spread apart on screen?
• Assignment: Did you map Design Color 1 to the correct Spool Number?
• Stops: Is the Hand Icon visible before the fabric placement steps?
• Marking: Are crosshairs drawn on the stabilizer?
• Oil: Did you oil the hook today?

SF101 is not the hoop stabilizer: fuse it to the fabric to prevent puckering without bulk

Viewer confusion regarding materials was cleared up in the comments. This is a masterful material stack:

1. Preparation: Pellon SF101 (Shape-Flex) is fused to the back of the cotton fabric before it comes to the machine. This effectively turns a flimsy quilting cotton into a stable canvas.
2. Hooping: A No-Show Poly Mesh is hooped. This provides structure without the cardboard stiffness of heavy cutaway.
3. Layering: Cotton batting is added during the sew-out.
   

Decision Tree: Choosing Your Stabilizer Stack

Use this logic to avoid puckering:

• Scenario A: Distortion-Prone Fabric (Quilting Cotton, Knits)
  • Action: Fuse SF101 to fabric. Hoop Poly Mesh or Cutaway.
• Scenario B: Dense Stitch Count (>20k stitches)
  • Action: Use Medium/Heavy Cutaway. Mesh is not enough.
• Scenario C: "Soft Hand" Required (Napkins, Garments)
  • Action: Hoop No-Show Mesh. Use light interfacing on fabric if needed.

“Do Not Stitch” on the Brother PR1055X: make blank blocks without going back to the computer

This feature is a massive time-saver for production runs. Becky needs some blocks to be "Blank" (Crosshatching only, no floral design).

Instead of creating a new file on the PC, she does it on the machine screen:

1. Select steps 5, 6, and 7 (The floral elements).
2. Tap the Do Not Stitch icon (Needle with a "Ghost/Cancel" symbol).
3. The preview turns those steps grey/transparent.
   
   
   

The active stitch count drops, and the machine skips those steps entirely.

Verify your model: A viewer noted this interface varies by generation (PR1000 vs PR1050X vs PR1055X). Check your manual if your icons look different.

If you’re on a single-needle machine, you can still use this workflow (you just stop after step 4)

If you do not have a $12,000 multi-needle machine, don't worry. The Split -> Space -> Sort logic applies to any machine with a 5x7 or larger hoop.

The Single-Needle Workaround:

• Load the file.
• Stitch steps 1-4 (Crosshatch).
• When the machine stops for color 5, simply end the job. Remove hoop.

However, this is usually the moment where hobbyists realize the limitations of single-needle machines. If you are producing team sets or table runners for sale, the constant thread changes become the bottleneck. Scaling to a multi-needle machine (brands like SEWTECH offer cost-effective entry points compared to major dealers) helps you recapture that time.

Hooping speed is the silent bottleneck—fix it before you buy more software

Color sorting reduces thread changes. Reserve stops reduce mistakes. But if hooping takes you 5 minutes per item, you are losing money.

If you fight with alignment, re-hooping, or "hoop burn" (the shiny ring left by pressure), treat this as a hardware problem, not a skill problem.

• Trigger (The Pain): Sore wrists, inconsistent placement, "popping" out of the hoop.
• The Upgrade Path:
  • Level 1: Add a dedicated hooping station for embroidery to ensure your placement is identical every time.
  • Level 2: For difficult items (thick bags, delicate velvets), magnetic hoops for brother pr1055x exploit magnetic force to clamp instantly without "unscrewing and screwing" frames.
  • Level 3: If you are doing volume, systems like the hoopmaster hooping station combined with magnetic frames are the industry standard for repeatability.

Some users compare generic versus branded systems. The goal is simple: fast, pain-free loading. If you are running a shop, improving hooping for embroidery machine efficiency with faster-loading hoop solutions like brother pr1055x hoops alternatives is often the highest ROI investment you can make after the machine itself.

Warning: Magnetic Safety
Magnetic frames use industrial-strength neodymium magnets.
* Pinch Hazard: They snap together with force. Keep fingers clear.
* Medical Risk: Keep away from pacemakers.
* Electronics: Do not place directly on top of USB drives or LCD screens.

Quick troubleshooting: the problems people hit first (and how to get unstuck fast)

The real result: fewer thread changes, fewer babysitting moments, cleaner trimming—and a clear upgrade path

This workflow isn’t about fancy tricks. It is about controlling the three pillars of embroidery success:

1. File Control: Splitting and spacing for "Post-Production" ease (trimming).
2. Machine Control: Flip-flop stops and selective stitching.
3. Physical Control: Using the right stabilizer stack and hooping tools.

Once you master this, you aren't just "stitching a design"—you are running a process.

And when you are ready to go faster, do not just turn up the speed dial. Upgrade the bottlenecks. For many operators, that means fixing the hooping for embroidery machine loading time first, then looking at productivity tools like multi-needle machines (SEWTECH provides excellent options for scaling) to handle the workload.

Operation Checklist (Post-Stitch)

• Quality Check: Inspect the back. Is the bobbin tension balanced (1/3 white strip)?
• Trim Check: Did the 2-inch spacing give you enough room to cut safely?
• Reset: Clean any lint from the hook area before the next run.
• Inventory: If you used "Do Not Stitch," remember to reset those steps to "Active" if your next runner needs the floral pattern!

FAQ

• Q: Why does Embrilliance show two embroidery blocks, but the Object Panel highlights everything as one combined object?
  A: The embroidery file is a single locked object, so splitting stitches is required before independent moving or spacing will work.
  • Open Object Panel and confirm selecting one block highlights both (single object).
  • Use Embrilliance Enthusiast Edit Stitches (triangle-with-dot icon) and box-select one block.
  • Run Cut stitches and separate into a new design, then exit stitch edit mode back to Object Mode.
  • Success check: clicking the top block highlights only the top block, and the bottom block stays unselected.
  • If it still fails: verify the license/module—Stitch Editing is an Embrilliance Enthusiast feature, not Essentials.
• Q: How do I set the correct hoop boundary in Embrilliance for a 360×200mm multi-needle hoop before splitting and spacing a design?
  A: Lock the hoop size first so spacing and trimming allowances stay inside the real stitch field.
  • Go to Preferences > Hoops and select 360 × 200 mm (or your machine’s actual hoop).
  • Treat the hoop outline as a “do not cross” boundary before any stitch edits.
  • Decide the trimming margin upfront (the workflow shown uses 0.5-inch trim allowance).
  • Success check: both blocks (after spacing) sit fully inside the hoop outline with visible margin for trimming.
  • If it still fails: re-check that you are viewing the edited version (use versioned “Save As” so the wrong file is not reopened).
• Q: How far apart should two split embroidery blocks be spaced in Embrilliance to trim each block safely without taping fabric near the needle?
  A: Space the two blocks about 2 inches apart so each block can be trimmed with a 0.5-inch margin and your hands stay away from the stitch zone.
  • Turn off stitch edit mode and return to Object Mode before moving pieces.
  • Drag the “Split” block upward and the original block downward to create the gap.
  • Plan trimming before stitching: each block needs room for scissors/rotary cutting after the sew-out.
  • Success check: the grid shows clear separation, and the on-machine preview shows the blocks not touching after loading.
  • If it still fails: confirm you loaded the correct saved stitch file version, not the original combined file.
• Q: How do I use Embrilliance Utility Color Sort to reduce thread changes (example: 16 stops down to 7) without overwriting the original design?
  A: Use Utility > Color Sort, then inspect in New View before saving so the original file is preserved.
  • Select both objects (Ctrl+A), then run Utility > Color Sort.
  • Click New View first to open the sorted result in a temporary tab for inspection.
  • Save the sorted result only after verifying the layering still looks correct.
  • Success check: the color-change/stops count drops (the shown example reduces 16 stops to 7) and the preview still matches the intended stitch order.
  • If it still fails: close without saving and re-run Color Sort; do not click “Save” inside the Color Sort box until the New View is confirmed.
• Q: How do I assign threads on a Brother PR1055X without confusing design color-change steps with needle bar/spool numbers?
  A: Treat “Design Steps” as the file’s sequence and “Needle Bar/Spool Numbers” as physical thread positions—map steps to the correct spools on the screen.
  • Identify the design’s step order (e.g., Steps 1–7 after color sorting).
  • Assign each step to a physical spool/needle number you have actually threaded (example shown: Yellow on Spool 1, Orange on Spool 9).
  • Consider a consistent rack standard (generally, keeping common colors in fixed positions reduces rethreading mistakes).
  • Success check: the PR1055X preview matches expected colors for each step and does not call for an unthreaded needle.
  • If it still fails: re-check the assignment screen—design step numbers are not the same thing as spool/needle bar numbers.
• Q: How do I set Reserve Stop (hand icon) correctly on a Brother PR1055X so the machine pauses before placing batting or fabric in a flip-flop workflow?
  A: On Brother PR series, place the Reserve Stop BEFORE the step where fabric/batting must be added, not after.
  • Open the step list and decide exactly which step requires an operator action (batting placement, then fabric placement).
  • Insert the hand icon so the machine pauses before Step 2 and before Step 3 (as demonstrated).
  • Keep hands and tools clear of the needle path during the pause—multi-needle machines can start instantly.
  • Success check: the machine stops and waits at the correct point, giving time to add the layer before stitching begins.
  • If it still fails: remove the stop and reinsert it one step earlier—most “stops too late” issues are placement logic errors.
• Q: What is the correct stabilizer stack when using Pellon SF101 (Shape-Flex) with No-Show Poly Mesh to prevent puckering on quilting cotton during a Brother PR1055X sew-out?
  A: SF101 is not the hoop stabilizer—fuse Pellon SF101 to the fabric first, then hoop No-Show Poly Mesh, and add batting during the sew-out when required.
  • Fuse SF101 to the back of the cotton fabric before hooping.
  • Hoop No-Show Poly Mesh (or cutaway when more structure is needed) to support stitching without bulky stiffness.
  • Add cotton batting during the programmed reserve stop if the design calls for it.
  • Success check: the fabric stays flat after stitching with minimal wrinkles/puckers around dense areas.
  • If it still fails: verify hoop tension is firm and the fabric is not shifting inside the “sandwich”; if distortion persists, generally moving to a more supportive cutaway may be needed (follow your material and machine guidance).
• Q: What are the key safety risks when using magnetic embroidery hoops and when placing fabric near the needle during Brother PR1055X reserve stops?
  A: Treat both actions as pinch-and-puncture hazards: magnetic frames snap together hard, and reserve stops still place hands near a live needle zone.
  • Keep fingers clear when closing magnetic frames—industrial magnets can pinch skin quickly.
  • Keep magnetic hoops away from pacemakers and avoid placing magnets directly on sensitive electronics.
  • During PR1055X reserve stops, position fabric/batting with hands outside the needle path and be ready for instant restart.
  • Success check: hands never cross under the needle bar area, and the hoop/frame closes without finger contact at the magnet edges.
  • If it still fails: slow down the workflow and reposition the hoop/frame on a stable surface before closing; if unsure, follow the machine manual and shop safety rules.