From Hoop to Home: Make a Custom ITH Pillow Cover and Inner—Start to Finish

Video reference: “GoCustom ITH Pillow Case + Inner Tutorial” by Stitch Delight

If you love the crisp, professional look of store-bought pillows but want your own art front-and-center, this In-The-Hoop (ITH) project delivers. You’ll build a decorative pillow cover and a fully zippered inner form on your embroidery machine—clean edges, sharp corners, and a custom front design you choose.

What you’ll learn

• How to hoop stabilizer and stitch a precise placement line for a clean, square pillow front.

• The cleanest way to secure and embroider the front panel—without fabric shifting.

• How to build an overlapped envelope back for the cover, plus a zippered inner pillow form.

• Crucial zipper steps that make turning and stuffing easy.

• Trimming, turning, and stuffing for a polished, professional finish.

Primer: What This ITH Pillow Project Delivers

An ITH pillow means most construction happens while the fabric stays hooped on your embroidery machine. You’ll make two parts: 1) A decorative cover with a custom-embroidered front and a tidy overlap back opening. 2) A separate inner form that zips open for easy stuffing and shaping.

When to choose this approach

• When you want precise, repeatable results with minimal traditional sewing.

• When you need a fast, giftable project that showcases embroidery.

• When custom sizing matters—commenters highlight the flexibility and convenience of making your own inner.

Machine and hoop compatibility

• This method works on both single- and multi-needle embroidery machines. A community reply confirms that a 12×16 inch hoop on a single-needle machine can accommodate compatible files. If your hooping area matches a listed size, you’re set. brother embroidery machine

Design freedom

• You can stitch any design that fits the placement area. The process below ensures the front panel stays flat and stable while you embroider.

Quick check

• Confirm you have a suitable hoop size for the pillow you plan to make.

• Have your embroidery design file ready to load.

Prep: Tools, Materials, and Files

You’ll need

• Embroidery machine and appropriate hoop.

• Stabilizer: a standard stabilizer for the cover; water-soluble stabilizer for the inner form (soft finish after removal).

• Fabrics: a front panel (cut at least 1 inch larger all around) and two back panels; additional fabric for the inner.

• Temporary adhesive: light 505 spray.

• Zipper: plastic type recommended for sewing over; length matched to your file.

• Scissors or tailor’s shears.

• Stuffing (or beans for warmers; see safety note).

• Your digitized design file for the pillow front.

Environment

• Clear, flat surface for smooth hooping and cutting.

Safety and use notes (from the tutorial)

• Choose a suitable zipper to avoid project issues.

• Move the zipper slider to the middle before enclosing seams—critical for turning.

• For bean warmers, use heat-safe fabric and heat only a few seconds at a time.

From the comments: single-needle users

• A reply confirms this project works on single-needle machines when you have a compatible hoop size (e.g., 12×16 inch).

Pro tip

• Cut your front panel at least 1 inch larger than the placement; you’ll trim for tidy edges later. embroidery magnetic hoops

Prep checklist

• Design file loaded and sized for your hoop.

• Stabilizers ready (standard for cover, water-soluble for inner).

• Fabrics cut: front (oversized) and two backs with extra width for overlap; inner pieces.

• Zipper on hand (plastic recommended).

• 505 spray and sharp trimming tools at the ready.

Setup: Hoops, Placement, and Why Order Matters

The sequence below minimizes fabric movement and ensures a crisp, square cover and a smoothly functioning inner zipper.

1) Hooping the cover stabilizer and placement stitch

• Hoop your preferred stabilizer.

• Stitch the first step—a placement outline—so the fabric panel aligns perfectly.

2) Positioning and securing the front panel

• Place the front fabric over the placement area, smooth and flat.

• Lightly mist 505 spray to stop shifting.

• Stitch along the placement to tack the fabric down; then embroider your custom design.

3) Back panel overlap planning

• Cut two back panels the same size as the front panel, adding 2 inches on one side for overlap.

• Fold each in half and plan for about a 1-inch overlap centered on the back—this creates the opening for inserting the inner later.

Watch out

• Over-spraying adhesive can gum up needles or make repositioning messy. Use a light touch. magnetic hoops for embroidery machines

Quick check

• After tacking the front, run a finger over the surface—no bubbles or ripples.

• Back panels overlapped by about 1 inch? Confirm before stitching.

Setup checklist

• Stabilizer hooped square.

• Placement line stitched.

• Front panel secured, design centered and stitched.

• Back panels cut, folded, and overlap planned.

Operation: Step-by-Step Build

Part A — Craft the decorative pillow cover

Step A1: Hoop and place (Cover) - Hoop stabilizer and stitch the placement line. Expected result: a clean outline for aligning your front panel.

Step A2: Add and secure the front panel

• Place the fabric over the placement line and lightly spray 505.

- Stitch to secure, then run your custom embroidery. Expected result: front panel neatly secured; design stitched cleanly without fabric creep.

Step A3: Build the overlapped back and stitch

• Place the first folded back panel with raw edges aligned to one side.

• Place the second folded panel overlapping the first by about 1 inch at center.

- Stitch around to secure back to front. Expected result: a finished cover with a tidy envelope opening.

Step A4: Trim and turn

• Trim excess fabric around the perimeter, leaving a small seam allowance.

- Turn right side out through the back opening; push out corners. Expected result: cover is crisp with squared edges.

Part B — Construct the inner pillow with zipper

Step B1: Hoop water-soluble stabilizer and place zipper

• Hoop water-soluble stabilizer and stitch the placement for the inner.

- Position the zipper along the line. Tape both ends and the slider tab so nothing shifts. Expected result: zipper aligned, centered, and immobilized.

From the comments: zipper confidence

• A helpful reply suggests using plastic zippers that are made to be sewn over. Keep the slider out of the stitch path and the step becomes easy and repeatable. dime snap hoop

Step B2: Crucial slider step—move to center - Before enclosing, move the slider to the middle. If you forget, opening the inner later becomes difficult. Expected result: slider centered and taped if needed.

Watch out

• Forgetting to center the slider will make turning the inner right side out a struggle.

Step B3: Attach the fabric halves over the zipper

• Apply a touch of 505 on the stitched zipper area for neat folds.

• Place the top fabric half wrong side up, covering the zipper by about 1/2 inch; fold and press into the adhesive. Stitch down.

- Repeat for the bottom half, again covering the zipper by about 1/2 inch; stitch down. Expected result: both halves cleanly cover the zipper with neat, parallel stitch lines.

Step B4: Final outline stitch, trim, and turn

• Stitch the final perimeter to enclose the inner.

• Remove hoop; trim excess fabric and stabilizer close to the seam, but not through it.

- Carefully remove stabilizer directly under the zipper so it can open fully; open zipper. Turn from a corner to right side out. Expected result: a clean inner with a fully functioning zipper.

Step B5: Stuff the inner - Fill with fiberfill to your preferred firmness. For small bags used as warmers, beans are an option; use heat-safe fabric and heat only a few seconds at a time. Expected result: smooth, evenly filled inner that maintains shape.

Decision points

• If you want a softer inner: use more water-soluble stabilizer removal and slightly lighter stuffing.

• If you’ll heat as a bean bag: use only heat-safe fabric and short heating intervals.

Operation checklist

• Cover front and overlap back stitched and turned.

• Inner zipper placed, slider centered, halves stitched.

• Under-zipper stabilizer removed; inner turned and filled.

Quality Checks: Catch Issues Before They Snowball

Cover alignment

• The front stitch line should run parallel on all sides; the design sits centered within the placement. Quick check: measure from design edges to seam—consistency means you’re square.

Back overlap

• The folded edges should overlap about 1 inch. Tug gently—no gaping.

Zipper placement and function

• Zipper should be straight, centered, and fully operable after you remove stabilizer under it.

• Slider should be positioned at center before fabric halves are stitched.

Trim accuracy

• Seam allowance intact all around; no clipped stitches.

From the comments: confidence boost for zippers

• A reply emphasizes that plastic zippers are sew-friendly and prevent damage when stitched across. Keep the slider out of the needle path and it’s smooth sailing. magnetic hoop embroidery

Results & Handoff: Turning, Stuffing, and Final Assembly

Turn the inner and fill - Open the zipper fully, turn from a corner, and fill to preference. If you’re making a hot bean bag, remember the heat-safe fabric rule and brief heating only.

Insert the inner into the cover - Slide the stuffed inner into the cover through the overlap opening; adjust corners for a full, square look.

Why make your own inner?

• A community reply highlights the freedom to choose exact sizes and avoid variable store quality—plus the convenience of making one on the spot when you need it.

Pro tip

• After stuffing, “knead” the inner to distribute filling, then add small amounts to firm up corners.

Quick check

• With the inner in the cover, corners look filled and the cover sits square, not saggy.

Troubleshooting & Recovery

Symptom: Fabric shifted during cover embroidery

• Likely cause: Not enough adhesive or smoothing.

• Fix: Use a light, even mist of 505 and smooth from center out before stitching. hoop master embroidery hooping station

Symptom: Cover corners look rounded or limp

• Likely cause: Inadequate trimming or under-stuffed inner.

• Fix: Trim a touch closer (without cutting stitches); add small amounts of stuffing and push firmly into corners.

Symptom: Zipper won’t open after stitching

• Likely cause: Stabilizer remains under the zipper or slider not centered earlier.

• Fix: Trim out stabilizer directly beneath the zipper; if slider is trapped, unpick a small section to free it, then restitch.

Symptom: Wavy zipper seam

• Likely cause: Fabric not covering zipper evenly or insufficient adhesion before stitching.

• Fix: Re-apply a light 505 mist, re-position fabric to cover by about 1/2 inch, and restitch.

Symptom: Hooping feels cramped or misaligned

• Likely cause: Fabric not cut oversize; hooping not square.

• Fix: Cut the front at least 1 inch larger all around; re-hoop carefully with stabilizer taut and square. magnetic hoops for embroidery

Symptom: Inner feels lumpy

• Likely cause: Uneven stuffing.

• Fix: Redistribute by massaging; add small amounts until even. For bean warmers, test increments of fill for drape.

From the comments

• “Is it cost-effective to make your own forms?” The standout benefit shared is freedom of size and better control of quality; many find it more convenient than hunting for a matching store-bought insert.

• “Single-needle with 12×16 hoop?” A reply confirms compatible options exist for that hoop size in the file set.

• “Zipper fear?” A reply recommends plastic zippers designed to be sewn over and keeping the slider out of the stitch path—this makes the step much less intimidating. tajima hoop

Reference sizes and files

• The tutorial notes that if a design fits the area, you can stitch it. Check your design set for size diagrams to match your hoop.

Pro tip

• A tiny line of 505 on the stitched area before topstitching the inner halves helps create a neat, repeatable fold every time. magnetic hoops

Watch out

• Over-trimming can nick the seam and cause fraying. Leave a small, consistent allowance.

Quick check

• Before committing to the final seam on the inner, confirm the slider is centered one last time.

Final note on accessories

• Keep your hooping stable and square. If you use accessories in your own setup, choose options that help you hoop consistently and align placements repeatably. hoopmaster