Table of Contents
Video reference: “In the Hoop Apple Jar Openers / Pot Holders - Quick Embroidery Tutorial” by Stitch Delight
Tight lids don’t stand a chance. This apple-shaped, in-the-hoop jar opener grips like a pro, looks charming on the fridge, and doubles as a pot holder if you skip the non-slip layer. It’s a fast, beginner-friendly make: appliqué the leaves and core, quilt the apple, add a hanging loop, and finish with a neat re-hooped tack-down.
What you’ll learn
- How to set up stabilizer and fabric for a clean in-the-hoop appliqué build.
- When to use cut-away vs. tear-away—and why a second hooping simplifies finishing.
- Where to place the ribbon loop, non-slip backing, and optional magnet.
- Turning, pressing, and final tack-down so your front and back never shift.
Primer: What & When This project creates an apple-shaped jar opener (with a non-slip back) that subdues stubborn jar lids. Slip the textured side against the lid, twist, and enjoy the grip. Prefer a pot holder? Omit the non-slip layer; you still get the same quilted apple face and hanging loop.
- What it is: A fully in-the-hoop appliqué and quilting project finished with a second hooping.
- Where it shines: Quick gifts, kitchen sets, teacher thank-yous, or seasonal décor.
- Skill level: Beginner—appliqué placement, trimming, and a straightforward re-hoop.
- Constraints: For smaller hoop sizes, skip batting to make turning easy.
Pro tip: If you like a puffier, quilted look, fuse a very thin iron-on batting behind the front fabric. For tiny sizes, leave it out to keep turning smooth. magnetic embroidery hoop
Prep: Tools, Materials, Files You’ll need
- Embroidery machine and hoop
- Stabilizer: cut-away (first hooping); tear-away (second hooping)
- Fabrics: red (front/back), green (leaves), yellow (core)
- Optional: thin iron-on batting for loft
- Non-slip fabric (rubbery/foamy drawer-liner style) for the jar-grip back
- Ribbon or cord for the hanging loop
- Optional: small, strong earth magnet (for fridge storage)
- Threads: red, green, yellow
- Scissors and/or pinking shears; iron; low-tack tape
- Apple jar opener embroidery design file
Why these choices
- Cut-away gives solid support during the appliqué/quilting build.
- Tear-away on the second hooping lets you remove the piece cleanly after the final tack-down.
- Non-slip fabric provides real-world grip; bumps face down when assembled.
- A small but strong magnet tucks under a leaf so it lives on your fridge.
Watch out: Keep the magnet away from the needle path during the final stitch to avoid needle damage. embroidery magnetic hoops
Prep checklist
- Design file loaded
- Threads (red/green/yellow) ready
- Front red fabric fused with thin batting (if using)
- Stabilizer pieces cut: one cut-away, one tear-away
- Ribbon loop cut and ready; magnet at hand if using
Setup: Stabilizer, Fabric Stack, and Why It Matters Stabilizer and layering dictate how cleanly this finishes.
- Hoop cut-away stabilizer for the first build. Place your red front fabric (with fused batting if using) on top to receive the first stitches.
- Keep fabrics larger than the outline by at least 1–2 inches in all directions to ensure full coverage.
- Keep low-tack tape handy to secure the folded ribbon before the final pass of the first hooping.
Quick check: Smooth, centered fabric with no ripples? You’re ready for the outline.
Decision point: Batting or not?
- If your chosen size is small → omit batting for an easier turn.
- If mid/large size → thin iron-on batting adds a soft quilted effect without bulk. hooping station for embroidery
Setup checklist
- Cut-away hooped firmly
- Front red fabric centered; batting fused if using
- Green/yellow fabrics and matching threads nearby
- Ribbon pre-cut and within reach
Operation: Stitch-by-Stitch Steps Follow these steps for a polished, repeatable result.
1) Hoop stabilizer and place main fabric
- Iron thin batting to the wrong side of your front red fabric (optional; skip for small sizes).
- Lay the red fabric onto the hooped cut-away and run the first stitch to capture placement/tack-down.
Expected result: A clean outline on the red fabric; the apple base area is secured.
Quick check: Is the red fabric centered and smooth with the outline stitched? Proceed.
2) Stitch and trim the leaf appliqué
- The machine stitches an outline for the leaves.
- Place green fabric to cover the outlines; switch to green thread.
- Stitch the tack-down; trim the excess close to the seam.
- Stitch the satin edges for the leaves.
Expected result: Smooth satin-edged green leaves, no fraying visible.
Pro tip: Trim slowly with the blade flat to the fabric for a clean edge before the satin pass.
3) Stitch and trim the apple core appliqué
- Switch to yellow thread; stitch the apple-core placement.
- Place yellow fabric, stitch the tack-down, and trim close.
- The machine satin-stitches the core and adds the seeds.
Expected result: Crisp satin outline around the core with clean seed details.
Watch out: Don’t nick the tack-down seam while trimming—cutting into it can create gaps under the satin edge. magnetic hoop embroidery
4) Quilt the apple and add loop, non-slip, and back
- Switch back to red thread for the quilting pass.
- Fold your ribbon into a loop and tape it between the leaves so the loop extends beyond the top.
- Place the non-slip fabric over the design, bumps facing down.
- Place the red backing fabric over the non-slip to close the stack.
- Stitch the final pass of the first hooping to secure all layers (leave the opening indicated by the design for turning).
Expected result: Quilting visible on the apple, loop captured securely, back layers stitched with a clear turning gap.
Operation checklist (first hooping complete)
- Leaves and core finished with satin edges
- Quilting stitched across the apple
- Ribbon loop captured
- Non-slip and backing secured; opening left for turning
5) Remove from hoop, trim, and turn
- Take the project out of the hoop.
- Optionally remove excess stabilizer around the outside edge.
- Trim the perimeter with pinking shears, leaving a small tab at the opening for easier turning.
- Turn right-side out through the opening.
Expected result: A neatly turned apple; curves smoothed with no puckers.
Pro tip: Use a blunt turning tool to push out the curves gently; avoid sharp points that could pierce seams. embroidery hoops magnetic
6) Press and insert magnet
- Press to flatten seams and define the edge.
- Insert a small earth magnet and slide it toward the top, tucking it beneath a leaf.
- If you won’t re-hoop for the final tack-down, hand-stitch or glue the side opening now.
Expected result: Smoothly pressed edges, magnet positioned under the leaf—secure but movable if needed.
Watch out: Magnets can migrate as you handle the piece. Keep it parked at the top under a leaf before the final pass. dime magnetic hoop
7) Final stitching and finishing (second hooping)
- Hoop a fresh piece of tear-away stabilizer.
- Stitch an outline of the apple on this stabilizer.
- Place the turned apple into the stitched outline, aligning edges. Confirm the magnet is still at the top and away from the needle path.
- Stitch the final pass to tack the front and back together, sealing the opening.
- Remove from hoop and tear away the excess stabilizer.
Expected result: A fully closed apple with front and back neatly united; magnet captured at the top under a leaf.
Quick check: Tug gently at the perimeter—no gaps, no lifts. You’re done.
Quality Checks at Key Milestones
- After leaf/core appliqué: Satin outlines should be even, with trimmed fabrics fully caught by stitches.
- After quilting and stack build: Ribbon loop firmly stitched; non-slip layer fully covered by the backing; a clear opening remains.
- After turning/pressing: Edges smooth and symmetrical; no seam rolls or puckers.
- Before final pass: Magnet confirmed at the top under a leaf; apple centered within the outline on the second hooping.
- After final pass: No needle strike on magnet; edges uniformly stitched through.
Results & Handoff What you have: A durable, non-slip apple jar opener that’s fridge-friendly thanks to the magnet, or—without the non-slip—a cute pot holder or coaster. Grip is excellent on tight lids when the non-slip bumps face the lid surface. Care tips
- Spot-clean the non-slip side with a damp cloth.
- Press from the fabric side only; avoid direct heat on the non-slip layer.
- If you added a magnet, keep it away from electronics and cards.
From the comments
- Readers report the process “clicks” once they see the sequence laid out. Keep this guide handy the first time; by your second apple, it’ll feel automatic.
Troubleshooting & Recovery Symptom: Needle hits something hard during final pass
- Likely cause: Magnet crept into the needle path.
- Fix: Stop immediately, re-position the magnet under a leaf at the top, and re-start from the previous color change.
Symptom: Frayed edges around leaves/core
- Likely cause: Trimming too far from tack-down before satin stitch.
- Fix: Trim closer to the tack-down line; keep the blade flat. Re-run satin if needed.
Symptom: Wavy apple edge after turning
- Likely cause: Insufficient pressing or bulky batting on a small size.
- Fix: Steam-press from the fabric side; consider skipping batting on smaller designs.
Symptom: Loop pulls out with use
- Likely cause: Loop wasn’t captured deeply enough.
- Fix: Re-hoop and run a reinforcing stitch at the top, or restitch on a domestic machine following the top curve.
Symptom: Back layers shift during first hooping’s final pass
- Likely cause: Stack not fully covering the outline; fabrics not smoothed.
- Fix: Cut layers larger and tape edges lightly; smooth each layer before stitching.
Quick reference: Why two hoopings?
- The first hooping builds the appliqué and stack and leaves an opening for turning.
- The second hooping crisply tacks front and back together after turning—clean edge, captured magnet, and no visible hand-closing stitches. magnetic frames for embroidery machine