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Watch the video: “How to Make Custom Embroidered Patches: A Step-by-Step Guide” by Liberty Graphic Designs
If you’ve ever held a stiff, cleanly edged patch and wondered how to get from floppy cloth to that professional finish, this tutorial shows the whole journey. You’ll see the materials, the embroidery, the adhesive, and the edge-finishing technique that makes patches look ready for hats, beanies, koozies, and shirts.
What you’ll learn
- Why fusible stabilizer is the backbone of a sturdy patch
- How to embroider borders and simple text on hooped fabric
- How to fuse heat-activated adhesive for iron-on application
- How to precision-cut and seal polyester patches with a soldering iron
Introduction to Custom Embroidered Patches When you start with plain fabric, it’s limp and floppy—nothing like the crisp patch you might buy off the rack. The secret is structure: a fusible stabilizer bonded to the back so the patch holds its shape.
Understanding Patch Components
- The fabric: shown in the video in red and black options, including a textured fabric that looks almost like twill.
- The stabilizer: a fusible backing with glue on one side that heat-presses to the fabric, making it nice and sturdy.
- The embroidery: borders (and in one example, the word “Liberty”) stitched on a Tajima machine.
- The adhesive: a heat-activated layer added later so your patch can be pressed onto a garment.
Pro tip If you love that “already-embroidered” look, consider fabrics with a visible weave or fiber direction. Even with a simple border, the texture can make the center feel finished.
Why Make Your Own Patches? Even if you usually buy patches, making your own gives you flexibility—borders, text, and fabric choices tailored to your project. The video demos several variants so you can see different looks before the trim and finish stage. tajima hoops
Essential Materials for Patch Making Fabric Choices & Stabilizers The host starts by contrasting flimsy red cloth with a finished, rigid patch. That stiffness comes from fusible stabilizer (also called backing or fuse). It’s pressed to the fabric with heat so the patch isn’t floppy when you hoop and stitch.
Quick check Do you see the adhesive side on your stabilizer sheet? It should face the fabric before heat pressing. If you’re unsure, test a corner on scrap fabric first.
Watch out Regular (non-fusible) backing will not bond to your fabric and won’t supply the structure you see in finished patches. You need the type that fuses with heat.
Heat-Activated Adhesives Later in the process, the video adds an iron-on adhesive layer to the patch backs. The host references Heat n Bond (available at fabric stores or large retailers) and notes that heavier-duty adhesive on rolls is available from specialty suppliers. If you’re following the workflow shown, the adhesive is fused with a heat press after embroidery. Note that the exact press temperature and time are not specified in the video.
Machine Embroidery: Bringing Your Designs to Life Hooping and Setup Once the fusible stabilizer is attached, hoop the fabric firmly. A secure hoop means cleaner borders and fewer distortions. In the video, the red fabric fused with backing is hooped and mounted for stitching.
Stitching Your Custom Artwork
- First pass: a simple rectangular border on the red fabric—clean lines, crisp corners—nothing inside the center.
- Second pass: the host loads a new design from a USB drive and stitches an oval/rectangle with the word “Liberty” on black textured fabric.
- Another sample shows a two-color look (silver and black).
The video uses a Tajima embroidery machine to sew the borders and text. While specific settings like stitch density or tension aren’t provided, you can still observe the clean results: straight borders, legible lettering, and no obvious puckering.
From the comments A viewer asked if there’s a separate digitizing tutorial. The creator replied they don’t recall a dedicated video, though a live stream included some digitizing. That means you’ll need to bring your own digitized border/text files—or practice digitizing in your preferred software—before you start stitching.
Fusing and Rough Cutting Your Patches Applying Adhesive with a Heat Press After embroidery, the patches are removed from the hoop and roughly cut apart. Next comes the heat-activated adhesive. The video mentions Heat n Bond as an accessible option, and that heavier-duty adhesive on rolls can be purchased from embroidery suppliers. The host places patches and adhesive in the heat press to fuse everything into a single, stable piece. Exact temperature/time aren’t given; test on scrap and follow the adhesive’s directions.
Initial Trim with Scissors Before that final, ultra-clean cut, you’ll do a rough trim with scissors to remove bulk. Don’t cut too close to your border yet—that clean edge comes later with the soldering iron. For one design, the host trims the stabilizer to sit just inside the border, creating a slightly different visual effect once finished.
Watch out Cutting too close with scissors can nick your border stitches. Leave comfortable margins; the soldering iron will handle precision work.
The Art of Precision Cutting: Soldering Iron Technique Why Polyester is Key To get that professional, sealed edge, you’ll finish the patch with a soldering iron. This works properly only on 100% polyester fabric. The video is explicit: cotton and blends won’t cut or seal cleanly with this method.
Alternative: Sublimation Patches The host briefly shows sublimation sheets with a fabric-like feel, available in letter-size sheets. In that case, you cut them fully with scissors to apply. The video cites Sign Warehouse as a source.
Cutting and Sealing for Durability Here’s the method demonstrated in the video:
- Place the fused polyester patch on a piece of glass (heat-resistant, won’t scorch).
- Heat a soldering iron. Keep a tissue nearby to wipe the tip as residue builds.
- Run the tip right along the edge of your embroidered border. The heat cuts the polyester and simultaneously seals the edge so it won’t fray.
- If an edge feels a little rough, the host smooths it by gliding the side of the hot tip lightly along the cut edge.
- Lift away the excess fabric. You’re left with a crisp patch and a sealed perimeter.
Pro tip Work in a well-ventilated area. Melting polyester can produce fumes. Also, steady, consistent movement is key to smooth edges; practice on scrap first. embroidery machine for beginners
Quick check
- Fabric: 100% polyester? If not, don’t use the soldering-iron method.
- Surface: glass in place? Avoid wood or mats that can scorch.
- Tip: clean? Wipe residue on tissue to keep cuts smooth.
From the comments Viewers asked about heat press settings; the video does not specify exact temperature or time. If your fabric scorches, lower your heat, shorten press time, and test on scraps. Another viewer asked whether a soldering iron will melt polyester thread at the edge—the video doesn’t specify thread behavior. The demonstrated technique runs along the border to cut and seal the polyester fabric edge.
Safety first
- Heat tools: Use care with the soldering iron and heat press; both can burn skin and surfaces.
- Ventilation: Work with adequate airflow when cutting and sealing polyester.
- Surface: Always cut on glass to protect your table and ensure a cleaner seal.
Conclusion: Your Custom Patches Are Ready! After cutting and sealing, you’ve got stiff, professional-looking patches with iron-on adhesive on the back—ready for a shirt, hat, beanie, koozie, or any compatible surface. The host shows several finished examples at the end of the video.
Tips for Application and Care
- Application: With adhesive on the back, a heat press can apply the patch to your item. The video does not provide specific press settings—verify with the adhesive instructions and test on an inconspicuous area first.
- Finishing touch: If an edge feels sharp or rough, lightly smooth it with the side of your hot soldering-iron tip.
From the comments: business notes One viewer asked whether the shop still sells custom iron-on patches. The creator replied they stopped about two months prior to the comment. If you’re considering selling your own, document your materials (fabric type, stabilizer, adhesive) and process so customers know exactly what they’re receiving.
Troubleshooting recap
- My patch is flimsy: Ensure you used fusible stabilizer and heat-pressed it to the fabric before embroidery.
- My adhesive didn’t stick: Re-press with appropriate heat and pressure; the video doesn’t specify time/temperature, so follow the adhesive label and test on scraps.
- My edges are fraying: Confirm your fabric is 100% polyester and that you cut on glass with a clean soldering-iron tip.
- My fabric burned: Lower your press temperature, reduce dwell time, or use a protective sheet—test until you get a clean bond.
Resource notes (as cited in the video)
- Fusible adhesive: Heat n Bond (commonly found at fabric stores and large retailers).
- Heavier-duty adhesive rolls: embroidery supply shops.
- Sublimation sheets: Sign Warehouse (example cited by the host).
Gear context The stitching shown is on a Tajima embroidery machine. The tutorial does not list stitch density, tensions, needle sizes, or exact machine settings—so plan to run your own tests to dial in quality on your equipment. embroidery machine hoops
Reader-request corner (not covered in the video) We occasionally hear questions about alternative hoop systems and frames across different brands. The video does not cover these, and no specific recommendations are provided. If you use them, consult the manufacturer’s instructions and test your setup on scrap before production:
- Some readers use high-clamp or magnetic options; the tutorial itself demonstrates standard hooping only. magnetic embroidery hoops
- Brand-specific accessories vary widely; this guide focuses on the demonstrated workflow, not hardware comparisons. embroidery magnetic hoop
- Frame choices won’t replace the polyester requirement for the soldering-iron edge finish. magnetic embroidery frames
Notes on fabric and thread
- Fabric: The soldering-iron technique requires 100% polyester to cut and seal properly. Cotton or blends don’t respond the same way.
- Thread: The video doesn’t specify thread composition. If you’re unsure how your thread reacts to heat, test on a spare sample and apply the iron along the border with care.
Why this method works The fusible stabilizer creates a stable base that resists distortion during stitching, while the heat-activated adhesive adds utility—allowing you to press the finished patch onto a garment. The soldering iron is the closer, giving you a clean edge by melting and sealing polyester all at once for a tidy, durable finish. mighty hoop
Adaptations you can try (within the video’s constraints)
- Border-only patches: Clean borders on textured fabric can simulate filled embroidery without stitching the center.
- Stabilizer reveal: Trim stabilizer to sit just inside the border for a subtle visual effect.
- Two-tone looks: Swap thread colors for simple contrast, as shown in the silver/black sample.
Final checklist
- Fusible stabilizer pressed to the fabric
- Hooped firmly for consistent stitching
- Border and any text embroidered cleanly
- Adhesive fused on the back
- Polyester-only patches cut/sealed on glass with a soldering iron
You’re ready to make patches that look and feel professional—start with a simple border, add clean text, then fuse and finish. Repeat the process for different fabrics and textures to build your own custom set. magnetic embroidery hoops for brother uk