Hoffman Mulberry Panel: Machine Embroidery & Canvas Mounting Guide

Primer: What this project is and when to choose it

The Hoffman Mulberry (Leaf) Panel is a richly printed fabric featuring layered leaves. In this project, you’ll quilt those leaves with machine embroidery for dimensional texture and a polished finish, then mount the quilted panel to a canvas for wall display.

Where this shines

• When you want the drama of a panel plus the texture of dense stitching

• If you prefer machine embroidery to free-motion quilting for uniformity and precision

• When you plan to display the finished textile as wall art

Constraints and pace

• There are 79 individual leaf templates and each is unique—don’t swap or reuse a similar one in a different position.

• Alignment is everything. Plan to work methodically: mark, hoop, align, stitch, press—then repeat.

Pro tip

• Keep your panel pressed flat throughout. Press before marking each new area; press again before re-hooping.

Quick check

• Bottom orientation = the selvedge where the Hoffman panel name is printed. This keeps the numbering and stitching sequence consistent.

Watch out

• Skipping template reinforcement or rushing the layout draws misalignment forward into every subsequent leaf.

If you love a clean, repeatable setup using magnets to secure your layers, this project is an excellent showcase for magnetic hoops.

Prep: Templates, fabric extensions, batting, and tools

You’ll prepare three essentials before your first stitch: durable templates, grip-friendly panel edges, and stable layering.

1) Templates that last and stay true

• Print all 79 unique templates. Even if shapes look identical, they are not interchangeable.

- Laminate each template (or print on thicker plastic/board or transparencies). This prevents tearing and subtle stretch that throws off registration.

- Keep a large master placement print on hand; it shows where each numbered leaf belongs.

2) Temporary edge fabric for hooping

• Sew wide strips around all four sides of the panel. The width isn’t fussy (10–14 inches works); the goal is enough grip surface for your magnets and clearance for your hoop.

3) Layer batting - Cut batting larger than the quilt front (about 4–6 inches extra on each side). Lay it smoothly under the top and pin generously with safety pins.

Tools and materials

• Panel: Hoffman Leaf panel

• Templates: 79 printed, reinforced (laminated or thick stock/transparency)

• Temporary edge fabric strips

• Batting, safety pins

• Marking: fine clutch pencil and/or powdered chalk wheel in contrasting colors

• Ruler; Scotch Magic Tape; pins

• Magnetic hoop + magnets

• Iron and pressing surface

From the comments

• About the magnets: one viewer asked where to buy them; the presenter used magnets that came with her Galaxy multi-needle machine and did not name an external source.

Quick check

• Are all 79 templates present and laminated? Are edges extended? Is batting flat and pinned?

Checklist—Prep complete

• 79 unique, reinforced templates ready

- Temporary edge strips sewn all around

• Batting cut larger than panel, pinned smoothly

• Marking tools, ruler, Scotch tape at hand

• Iron heated and nearby

For readers building up their tool kit, you may encounter products labeled as embroidery hoops magnetic; for this project, choose what’s compatible with your machine and use the alignment process shown here.

Setup: Orientation, color choices, and hoop references

Orientation

• Identify the panel’s bottom by the printed selvedge (panel name). Keep this orientation consistent for every leaf.

Color selection - This panel is visually busy. A restrained palette enhances the print: think one yellow for the center row, a soft orange next, pinkish tones for select leaves, and purple for the outer layer. Limiting to about four main colors keeps the texture prominent without overwhelming the print.

Hoop references

• If your magnetic hoop lacks center marks, measure the inner opening and mark centers on all four sides. You’ll align fabric cross-hairs to these marks every time.

Pro tip

• Before you mark any cross-hairs on the panel, tape the corresponding template in place and align it to the printed leaf edges. The print-to-template match is your most reliable reference.

Decision point—Machine variations

• If you use a Brother Stellaire with a Snap-style positioning workflow, follow the same fabric-first method: match the template to the print, mark cross-hairs, and align to the hoop centers. That process is machine-agnostic and stabilizes results before any software overlay. If you’re sourcing accessories, seek a compatible magnetic hoop for brother stellaire and confirm orientation on-screen matches your hooping direction.

Quick check

• Confirm the panel’s bottom is toward you and the master template numbering makes sense in that orientation.

Checklist—Setup complete

• Orientation verified (bottom = selvedge with printed name)

• Thread colors limited and mapped to areas

• Hoop centers marked on the frame

Operation: Mark, hoop, align, and stitch—leaf by leaf

Your repeatable cycle is mark → hoop → align → stitch → press.

1) Rough center and hooping - Place the magnetic hoop on the machine. Rest the quilt top over the hoop and roughly align the area under the needle. Use a thin pin to find the hoop frame below at your intended center; insert the pin so it touches the hoop, lift the fabric, and align the pin with the hoop’s center marking. Hold with a magnet, then repeat for opposite sides and corners to keep the area taut.

Quick check

• Fabric should be smooth and gently tensioned—no waves or sag.

2) Fine-tune needle alignment - With the corresponding leaf template still in place, use the machine’s controls to nudge the needle exactly to the template’s center point. Confirm visually. Remove the template, then begin stitching.

Outcome - A perfectly placed outline and fill establish the baseline for the entire panel. If the outline looks off, stop early and correct now.

Watch out

• Don’t stitch over a pinned or taped template. Remove it before starting the needle.

3) Marking subsequent leaves - Tape the next numbered template so it kisses the previous stitch-out and aligns with the printed leaf. Use chalk or a fine pencil to draw clean cross-hairs from the template onto the fabric. Press the area flat before re-hooping to keep batting compressed and stitches flat.

Pro tip

• Alternate marking tools by fabric value: use a white powder wheel for dark areas; switch to a pencil where you need a darker line. Keep lines thin so they’re precise yet visible.

4) Hooping subsequent sections - Slide the magnetic hoop under the quilt sandwich. Align cross-hairs on fabric to the hoop’s top/bottom/side center marks. Use the pin-through-center trick to confirm your cross-hair meets the hoop mark under the fabric; place magnets and smooth tension. Ensure the hoop orientation matches the orientation shown on your machine before loading the design.

5) Final alignment and stitch - Load the specific leaf design. Your needle may move to “hoop center,” which is not necessarily your leaf center. Move the needle until it sits exactly over the template center. Some embroiderers lightly pierce the template at center with the needle to confirm, then remove the template and stitch. If the outline doesn’t track perfectly, unpick immediately, re-align, and restitch.

Outcome - Consistent registration across neighboring leaves, and a dimensional, layered texture that mirrors the print.

From the comments—single-stitch locator

• A reader asked how to make a single stitch to locate center and bring up the bobbin thread; a suggestion was to manually lower the needle via a side knob. Another reader noted their knobs didn’t lower the needle on their specific model—so consult your machine’s manual for the approved method on your unit.

Checklist—Operation cycle

• Template taped and aligned to the print

• Cross-hairs marked, area pressed flat

• Hoop center marks matched; magnets applied evenly

• Needle aligned to the actual template center; template removed

• Outline check looks correct; continue to full stitching

If you regularly tackle multi-position projects, consider a stable fixture to speed alignment steps; some embroiderers use a hoop master embroidery hooping station to standardize placement across repeats.

Quality Checks: Registration, tension, and finish

At each leaf, verify:

• Registration: Do outlines and fills track the printed leaf edges and neighboring stitch-outs?

• Tension: Is the surface smooth without puckers? Is batting evenly compressed?

• Orientation: Does the hoop orientation match the design orientation on your screen?

• Markings: Are cross-hairs thin, accurate, and erased/dusted after stitching when appropriate?

Quick check

• The very first stitched outline is your reference. If that’s perfect, use it as your benchmark. If not, unpick and realign before adding more leaves.

Pro tip

• If your outline reveals misalignment, it’s faster to correct immediately than to compensate on later leaves.

Watch out

• Under-tension in hooping leads to ripples. Over-tension can distort the print. Smooth + secure is the target.

Some embroiderers prefer framed alternatives that grip fabric differently; one example often discussed is a dime snap hoop. The alignment logic in this guide still applies: keep orientation consistent and validate center before stitching.

Results & Handoff: From quilted panel to wall art

Before mounting, press the entire panel and the backing fabric thoroughly. The mounting steps create crisp edges and even tension for a professional display.

Materials

• Your quilted panel (leave an unstitched fabric border to wrap around the frame)

• Canvas at your target size (example shown: 40-inch canvas for a 44-inch panel)

• Backing fabric (slightly larger than your canvas—about 1 inch extra on all sides)

• Upholstery staple gun and staples

1) Position the backing fabric and canvas

• Lay backing fabric wrong side up on a clean surface. Center the canvas face down on it. Staple from the center of one side outward, pulling fabric taut; rotate and repeat on all sides to distribute tension evenly.

2) Refine corners

• At each corner, trim excess bulk from the backing fabric so folds lie flat and clean. Staple securely.

3) Mount the quilted panel

• Place the quilt wrong side up, centered over the same canvas. Staple from the middle of one side outward, pulling evenly as you go, then rotate. The quilt should overlap slightly along the sides—this is expected for a wrapped, gallery look.

Outcome

• A tight, square textile that’s ready to hang without a frame, with neat corners and a smooth face.

Quick check

• Look across the face in raking light: you should see even tension without ripples.

If you’re building a setup around a compatible machine, you’ll find many references to magnetic embroidery hoops for brother in the community; for this panel, the keys are even tension, accurate marks, and center alignment—regardless of specific frame brand.

Troubleshooting & Recovery

Symptom → likely cause → fix

• Outline shifted on one side → Hoop orientation didn’t match design orientation → Re-hoop with fabric cross-hairs matched to hoop center marks; verify screen shows the same top/bottom.

• Puckers near dense areas → Fabric not evenly tensioned or batting not flat → Smooth, re-pin the batting; re-hoop with distributed magnets; press before stitching.

• Gaps/overlaps between neighboring leaves → Template misalignment or skipped pressing → Re-tape template, re-mark cross-hairs, press, then re-hoop; unpick outline and restitch.

• Chalk lines vanished mid-setup → Wrong marking color for fabric value → Swap to a contrasting powder/pencil and redraw thin, precise lines.

• Needle not over true center even after “hoop center” → Machine’s automatic center ≠ template center → Manually jog to the template center each time; confirm by lightly touching the needle to the template mark (then remove the template).

From the comments—Stellaire alignment

• A viewer using a Snap-style app found accurate registration by relying first on printed templates/transparencies to match the fabric’s print, then hooping to those marks. This keeps the fabric in charge and the software aligned to solid references.

If your workflow includes modular frames or fixtures, you’ll also see references to hooping stations among embroiderers; these can standardize positioning, but the core checks in this guide remain the same.

From the comments

Q: How do I line up accurately on a Brother Stellaire with a Snap-style app? A: Align the printed template to the panel print first, tape, mark cross-hairs, and hoop to the center marks. Then bring the machine to that physical center and confirm before stitching.

Q: What magnets are those and where do I buy them? A: In this project, the magnets came with the presenter’s Galaxy multi-needle machine. No separate source was named.

Q: How can I make a single stitch to find center and bring up the bobbin thread? A: One suggestion was manual needle lowering via a side knob; a follow-up noted that method didn’t work on their model. Check your machine’s manual for the approved single-stitch or needle-lower function.

Final notes

Work patiently. The panel’s beauty emerges leaf by leaf: mark precisely, hoop smoothly, align thoughtfully, and don’t hesitate to unpick the outline and correct early. When the whole surface reads as one coherent leaf stack, the canvas wrap is quick—and the reveal is worth it.

If you prefer a multi-needle platform for this kind of panel work, some readers operate machines in the same family as brother pr1055x; regardless of brand, the method here is the difference-maker.