Table of Contents
Watch the video: “How to Digitize a Patch using Embrilliance Stitch Artist (Applique & Satin Border)” by Stitchback Stories
If you’ve ever stitched an appliqué patch and wished the border looked crisper and more professional, this guide is for you. We break down exactly what happens on-screen in Embrilliance Stitch Artist Level 1 so your placement stitch, tack-down, and satin border all line up like a pro.
We’re following the same steps demonstrated in the video—no guesswork. By the end, you’ll have a clean appliqué base and a satin edge that accounts for pull compensation and stands up to wear.
What you’ll learn
- Set up Embrilliance preferences for hoop, file type, and jump ties
- Import and scale your artwork at 100% for accurate results
- Digitize a position stitch and tack-down for appliqué
- Build a satin border with underlay for strength and coverage
- Make practical adjustments for pull compensation before you stitch
Getting Started with Embrilliance Stitch Artist
Understanding the Interface Embrilliance Stitch Artist is a robust platform, and the Level 1 tools are sufficient for this project. The video uses Stitch Artist Level 2 but deliberately sticks to Level 1 features so everything here is widely accessible. You’ll work in the main canvas (artboard), with the hoop area visible, and panels for Create, Selection, and Stitches.
Pro tip Keep your workspace tidy: collapse panels you aren’t using and keep the Properties panel visible while you adjust stitch types and settings. This helps you see changes immediately as you digitize. magnetic embroidery hoop
Setting Up Your Workspace Before you draw a single stitch, set your preferences. In Preferences > Environment > Hoops, choose the machine file type your machine reads (the video uses PES for Brother). Then select the hoop that matches your physical hoop so your artboard reflects your real stitch area. In Preferences > Jumps & Overlaps, enable “Ensure ties surrounding jumps” so long jumps are properly secured.
Watch out
- Wrong file type can cause compatibility issues at the machine.
- A mismatched hoop size can make your design exceed the embroidery area.
- Forgetting tie stitches may leave loose thread bridges.
Quick check
- Hoop size matches your actual hoop.
- File type is compatible with your machine.
- “Ties surrounding jumps” is checked.
Importing and Sizing Your Design
Cropping for Precision Import a clean, pre-cropped image of your patch design (PNG or JPG). The creator brings in artwork prepared in a graphics app (she mentions Illustrator in the video), but you can use any tool that exports a flat bitmap. The key is to crop to the exact design boundaries before importing.
Scaling to 100% Scale With the image selected, switch units to inches to size precisely. The video sets the patch at 2.5 inches square and digitizes at that exact size. This “digitize at 100%” approach ensures what you see is what you stitch.
Pro tip After sizing, switch units back to millimeters. The millimeter grid provides finer control, especially when placing borders and measuring insets.
Locking Your Image Once your image is placed and scaled, lock it so it doesn’t move as you draw. This single click prevents nudging the art mid-digitize (a common source of alignment issues).
Understanding Zoom and Practical Precision Zoom is a digitizer’s best friend. Use keyboard shortcuts (1, 2, 3) to switch between 100%, 200%, 300%, and so on. Working zoomed in—up to a 6:1 scale as suggested—helps you trace confidently. Keep in mind that a 1 mm deviation is rarely visible in the final stitch, especially on a satin border.
Digitizing the Appliqué Base
Creating Position Stitches Start by drawing a perfect circle (hold Shift while dragging) to match the patch boundary. Center it using the Selection tab. This shape will become your placement stitch, which tells you exactly where to lay fabric on the hoop.
Adding Tack-Down (Material) Stitches With the circle selected, set the stitch type to Appliqué. Remove the default E-stitch border by choosing “None” under Border so you’re left with a run stitch. Next, enable the Material (tack-down) stitch and set an inset. In the video, the inset is 0.4 mm, moving the tack-down slightly inside the fabric edge for a secure hold that won’t fray at the perimeter.
Watch out If the tack-down sits too close to the fabric edge, it may miss threads or fray the edge, especially on fabrics that ravel. Nudge the inset slightly inward until the preview looks reliable.
Using the Stitch Simulator Preview the sequence: the placement stitch runs first, you place your fabric, and then the tack-down secures it. This validation step saves time at the machine and helps you adjust before stitching.
Crafting the Satin Border
Applying the Satin Border Stitch Type To build the border, duplicate the circle (copy/paste). Change the duplicate’s stitch type to Satin Border. This gives you an independent border object you can scale and tune without affecting the appliqué base.
From the comments Some viewers asked why not convert the original appliqué E-stitch directly to satin. The video’s approach uses a duplicate object for the satin layer, keeping appliqué and border logically separate and easier to adjust. The creator didn’t address this specific “convert” suggestion in the thread, but the duplicate-and-convert approach is what she demonstrates on screen. brother embroidery hoops
Understanding Pull Compensation Satin stitches tend to pull inward as they stitch, so your final border can sew narrower than it appears on screen. Toggle off 3D stitches to inspect the underlying vector/needle lines and visualize how the outer and inner rails confine the zigzag. Plan for this by setting the width slightly thicker than your visual target.
Watch out If you ignore pull compensation, a border you intended to be bold might finish too thin. Always test on scrap and adjust.
Configuring Underlay for Stability Open the Satin Border’s underlay properties and enable Edge Run, Parallel, and Zig-Zag underlays. The video selects all three for maximum coverage and stability at the border, preventing shadows from underlying fabric.
Quick check
- Edge Run on? Good—this stabilizes the edges.
- Parallel on? Great—adds a base for your satin.
- Zig-Zag on? Yes—extra coverage where it counts.
Final Touches: Placement and Color
Precise Border Alignment Hold Shift while scaling the satin border inward from the center so it follows the illustration’s edge precisely. Align the border so that its footprint lands where you want the finished edge to live after pull-in.
Selecting Thread Colors Assign a thread brand and color to your satin layer. The creator selects Madeira PolyNeon in a burnt orange. Remember, on-screen swatches aren’t always accurate, so evaluate with your physical spools and adjust as needed.
Troubleshooting and Smart Checks
- Border too thin on stitch-out? Increase the satin width a notch and test again to account for pull.
- Seeing fabric peek through? Confirm all three underlays are on, or increase density modestly.
- Tack-down not visible in preview? Verify the Material toggle is on and that the inset isn’t set to zero.
- Paste-in-place not aligning? Make sure you’re selecting the correct object before copy/paste. The video demonstrates pasting directly on top; if yours shifts, note that app preferences and selection state can influence paste placement.
From the Comments
Where did the artwork come from? Viewers asked how the image was created. The creator mentions designing externally (she references Illustrator in the video) and importing a PNG/JPG. In replies, she confirms you can import a JPG or PNG from many sources—even a photo of a drawing. Stitch Artist Level 1 does not import vectors, so plan on bitmap formats and manual digitizing.
Why not convert E-stitch to satin? One commenter suggested changing the default appliqué border (E-stitch) straight to satin. The video’s method duplicates the circle and converts the copy to Satin Border, keeping the appliqué and border as separate, adjustable elements. While the creator didn’t respond to that exact suggestion in the thread, the duplicate approach is what she shows step by step.
How much is the software and where can I buy it? In the comments, the creator says you can buy Embrilliance directly or on Amazon and mentions paying around $200. Prices may vary; check current listings.
Which embroidery machines does the creator use? In replies, she notes using Brother PE800 and NQ1600E. She adds that the 1600 runs faster, quieter, and can automatically cut stitches.
Keyboard shortcuts grayed out on Mac? A viewer reported this and the creator suggested contacting Embrilliance support. If you see similar behavior, reach out to the publisher for troubleshooting.
Pro tip If you are stitching patches frequently, keep a consistent hoop setup and a repeatable test file for border width and underlay. A single swatch with a few widths (e.g., two or three variations around your usual setting) will quickly tell you which combination looks best on your chosen fabric and stabilizer. mighty hoop
Practical Gear Notes (General)
- If you’re on a Brother machine (as in the video), you’ll be working with PES files and a hoop that matches your model. Use the software hoop that corresponds to your attached frame.
- Many readers ask about alternative frames and accessories. Depending on your machine, you might explore options like brother magnetic hoop or brother embroidery machine. These are general categories people shop for—always verify compatibility with your specific model.
- If you often stitch smaller motifs, a brother 4x4 embroidery hoop can be handy. For flexible clamping solutions, some embroiderers consider dime snap hoop or broader magnetic embroidery frames—again, ensure model fit before you buy.
Workflow Recap (What You Did) 1) Preferences: Chose PES (for Brother), set hoop, and ensured ties for jumps. 2) Image in: Imported a pre-cropped PNG/JPG. Sized to final dimensions at 100%. 3) Zoom and grid: Used keyboard shortcuts and millimeter units for precision. 4) Appliqué base: Drew a circle, centered it, set Appliqué run for placement; enabled Material with a 0.4 mm inset. 5) Satin border: Duplicated the circle, changed to Satin Border, allowed for pull compensation. 6) Underlay: Enabled Edge Run, Parallel, Zig-Zag for a robust border. 7) Placement and color: Scaled from center to align the satin precisely; assigned thread brand/color.
Watch out Do not rely solely on on-screen appearance for color or coverage. Stitch a small test, especially when dialing in the satin width and underlay. Even minor changes in thread, fabric, or stabilizer can alter the final look.
Quick check
- Placement stitch clearly outlines fabric position.
- Tack-down inset sits safely inside the fabric edge.
- Satin border width looks slightly thicker than your target (to offset pull-in).
- Underlays are selected and visible in the preview.
From the comments: Pasting in place One viewer noted that Copy/Paste didn’t land exactly on top of the original shape. The video shows paste-in-place behavior, but if yours shifts, confirm the correct object is selected before copying and that you don’t inadvertently drag the selection. If issues persist, check Embrilliance support for version-specific guidance. brother embroidery machine
Next Steps in Your Digitizing Journey
- Practice different stitch types. The creator notes this video is Part 1 in a five-part series and will cover fills and other elements next (e.g., leaf and sparkle details).
- Build a small library of satin border tests in various widths and underlays. Note the combinations that look best on your favorite patch fabrics.
- Explore thread palettes from your preferred brand and keep physical swatches handy—on-screen color isn’t gospel.
- Keep a personal checklist for new projects so you never skip tie settings, grid units, or the simulator pass.
From the comments: Import sources and formats Another viewer asked about Procreate. The creator confirmed you can export a JPG and import it into Stitch Artist Level 1. There is no reliable “auto-digitize” that produces a clean result—manual digitizing is the professional route.
Closing thought Appliqué patches are all about clean geometry and consistent coverage. With a deliberate setup, a dialed-in satin, and a quick test stitch, your patch edges can look polished every time. If you’re on a Brother machine and exploring accessories, consider compatible frames such as brother embroidery hoops or explore category pages for magnetic hoops if you’re seeking clamp-style convenience—just confirm the fit for your exact model before purchasing.