In-the-Hoop Placemat: Beginner Machine Embroidery with Pieced Borders

Video reference: “Beginner Friendly Machine Embroidery In The Hoop Placemat Tutorial” by Stitch Delight

A placemat that looks boutique-made, built almost entirely in the hoop? Yes. This guide distills the full process—piecing borders, quilting a center panel, and adding a picture design—into a crisp, beginner-friendly workflow with pro-level alignment.

What you’ll learn

• How to piece patchwork blocks directly in the hoop, then sew them into border strips

• How to mark and hoop a multi-layer center panel for continuous quilting

• How to align and stitch a picture design onto a pre-quilted background

• How to attach, quilt, and finish borders with backing and binding

Primer: What this project makes—and when to use it This project creates a finished placemat with pieced patchwork borders and a quilted center panel topped with your chosen picture design. It’s a great starter for in-the-hoop piecing, precise template alignment, and binding practice. You’ll use an embroidery machine for piecing and quilting steps, and a sewing machine for joining blocks, attaching borders, and binding.

When to choose this method

• You want consistent, repeatable patchwork blocks built inside the hoop.

• You prefer precise placement using printed templates and cross-hair marks.

• You enjoy mixing machine embroidery with simple sewing for a polished finish.

Constraints and assumptions

• You’ll work with 4" fabric pieces for each ITH patchwork block.

• A 1/4" seam allowance is used when joining blocks and attaching borders.

• Binding is cut 2.75" wide and folded in half before stitching.

Pro tip If you like rigid, repeatable placements, a hooping fixture can speed your flow—many stitchers use dedicated stations to set centerlines consistently hoop master embroidery hooping station.

Prep: Tools, materials, and files Tools

• Embroidery machine

• Sewing machine

• Scissors

• Rotary cutter and quilt ruler

• Iron

• Hoop(s) sized to your chosen designs

Materials

• Fabric for patchwork blocks (4" pieces)

• Stabilizer

• Thin quilters batting

• Water-soluble vilene (for quilting borders later)

• Backing fabric (fleece used in the project)

• Binding fabric (cut 2.75"; fold in half)

• Thread

• Temporary adhesive spray (505)

Files you’ll need

• Patchwork design file (for in-the-hoop blocks)

• Quilting design file (for the center panel)

• Picture design file (for the central motif)

From the comments Love the look but want a different animal? Swap freely. The alignment method is the same—print a template for any picture design, then use its cross-hairs to position.

Watch out Use a light touch with adhesive. Overspray can lead to residue that attracts lint or stiffens fabric.

Quick check Before moving on, confirm you have templates printed for the quilting blocks and the picture design—and that your hoop fits the design repeat you plan.

Prep checklist

• All three design files on hand (patchwork, quilting, picture)

• Fabric cut to size; batting and stabilizer ready

• Templates printed with cross-hair marks

• 505 spray, scissors, rotary cutter, and ruler nearby

Setup: Templates, marking, and hooping layers Why templates matter Templates turn guesswork into repeatability. You’ll measure and mark squares and centers on the fabric so each stitched block—but especially the first—anchors in the correct spot and makes the rest line up.

Hooping order for the center panel

• First: stabilizer

• Second: thin quilters batting

• Third: your fabric (the reference uses a stretch knit center; cottons also work)

• Use 505 spray between layers to prevent shifting

Marking for alignment

• Print your quilting design template and measure it.

• On your center fabric, mark the square(s) to match the template, including center marks on all sides and a central cross-hair.

• These marks help you line up the hoop and needle precisely for each block.

Quick check When you place the hooped fabric on the machine, the center marking on fabric should match the hoop’s center lines and the machine’s needle position.

Pro tip If your machine supports a trace/baste function, use it to verify clearance before stitching. If you rely on accessories for stability, many stitchers prefer low-lift frames for easy repositioning dime snap hoop.

Setup checklist

• Templates measured and cut

• Grid and centers marked on fabric

• Stabilizer, batting, fabric hooped and smooth

• Needle aligned to block center

Operation: Piece, quilt, picture, border, finish Part A — In-the-hoop patchwork blocks (for borders) 1) Stitch the block outline Stitch the first step of the patchwork file to create the rectangular outline that doubles as your trim guide.

Outcome: A visible stitched rectangle inside the hoop.

2) Place and stitch the first fabric Lightly spray the wrong side of the first fabric piece, then place it over the top-left square, covering the outline by about 1/4" all around. Stitch and trim the excess on the outer edge.

Outcome: First fabric square secured and neatly trimmed.

3) Add the second piece, right sides together Place the second piece along the first piece’s edge, right sides together, and stitch to create a seam.

Outcome: A clean seam joins piece two to piece one.

4) Fold, tack, and trim Fold the second piece over the seam, smooth, add a light spray if needed, stitch the tack-down step, and trim the excess.

Outcome: Second piece lies flat and secure after tacking.

5) Add the third piece Repeat the place–stitch–fold–tack–trim process to secure the third fabric piece and complete one block. Outcome: One finished patchwork block.

6) Make enough blocks Repeat until you have enough to build your chosen border layout and size.

Watch out Shifting fabric leads to crooked seams. Keep folds crisp and add only the adhesive you need. If your hoop is prone to slip, some users stabilize with framings designed for firmer hold embroidery hoops magnetic.

7) Join blocks into border strips Use a 1/4" seam allowance on your sewing machine to stitch blocks into longer border strips. Rotate blocks for varied layouts, or keep them uniform for a tidy, graphic frame.

Outcome: Even, straight border strips.

Quick check Measure the total length of your border strips against your quilted center panel plan. Adjust by adding/removing blocks now.

Part B — Quilt the center panel 8) Prepare center panel with template marks Print your quilting template. Measure the design, then mark squares and centers on your fabric to match. Outcome: Clearly marked grid and cross-hairs.

9) Hoop and align layers Hoop stabilizer, batting, then fabric. Smooth wrinkles. Align your fabric center to hoop center and position the needle at block center; nudge if needed. Outcome: Taut, aligned hooping ready for the first quilting block.

10) Stitch quilting blocks across the panel Stitch the first block. Reposition and align for the next, using the grid and template. Continue until you’ve created the full quilted background.

Outcome: A continuous quilted background panel.

Pro tip If your machine supports a large embroidery area, leverage it to reduce rehoops. On multi-needle machines, workflows can be even smoother—many users optimize their steps on models like a 6-needle setup brother pr 680w.

Part C — Add the picture design on top 11) Align and stitch the picture design Print the picture design template and align its cross-hairs exactly as you did for the quilting blocks. Stitch the design (the reference uses a French Bulldog). Want another motif? A cat or word art works just as well—use the same alignment steps.

Outcome: Picture design cleanly centered on your quilted background.

Part D — Attach pieced borders 12) Plan your layout Decide whether your border strips frame the panel as single long sides, or as top/bottom rows plus side strips. Rotating blocks changes the look dramatically—audition a few options before sewing.

13) Sew borders to the center Mark a 1/4" from the edge of the quilted center. Place the border strip on that line, right sides together, and stitch with a 1/4" seam allowance. Repeat for remaining sides.

Outcome: Borders attached evenly around the center.

14) Press and prep for border quilting Give the entire top a good press to flatten seams and prep for quilting the border sections on the embroidery machine. Outcome: Smooth top ready for border quilting.

Part E — Quilt the borders, trim, back, and bind 15) Quilt the pieced border sections Hoop water-soluble vilene and mark a straight line across for alignment. Position the border section so it’s straight, then stitch the quilting design block by block (or a whole row if your hoop allows), using templates for placement. Outcome: Even, well-aligned quilting across the borders.

16) Trim, add backing, and bind Trim the entire piece square with a rotary cutter and quilt ruler. Add backing (fleece is used here). Prepare binding at 2.75" wide, folded in half. Attach the binding with a 1/4" seam allowance. Outcome: Fully finished placemat with neat edges and a professional profile.

Pro tip If you often quilt borders in sections, consider frames that make repeated alignments faster. Some stitchers prefer larger, rigid magnetic options for wide spans mighty hoop 11x13.

Decision points

• If your blocks aren’t lining up with the quilting grid → pause and recheck template measurements before stitching the next block.

• If your border strip seems short/long → add or remove a block now, before quilting the borders.

• If your binding looks tight at corners → re-press and clip before stitching the next side.

Quick check Before binding, confirm the placemat is square by measuring diagonals. They should match.

Operation checklist

• Patchwork blocks pieced and trimmed

• Borders assembled at 1/4" seams

• Center panel quilted; picture placed accurately

• Borders attached, pressed, and quilted

• Piece trimmed square; backing and binding attached

Quality checks at each milestone

• ITH block outline visible and accurate: Ensures clean trimming and coverage.

• First fabric covers outline by 1/4": Prevents exposed stabilizer.

• Seams at 1/4" and straight: Essential for borders that fit the center panel.

• Hooped layers are taut: Prevents puckers in quilting.

• Template cross-hairs aligned to hoop center: Guarantees consistent block-to-block spacing.

• Picture design centered: Confirms visual balance.

• Border quilting aligned: Avoids drift between block repeats.

• Final piece square: Key for a flat, professionally bound edge.

Results & handoff What you should have now

• A placemat with a quilted center, a well-centered picture design, and pieced borders that are quilted and neatly bound.

• A repeatable template workflow that scales—upgrade the picture or change fabric colors to create sets.

Care and gifting

• Press lightly on the reverse if needed.

• Package flat or rolled with tissue.

Pro tip If rehooping for borders feels fiddly, some makers prefer broader, low-shift frames for quick realignment—choose what fits your machine platform and stitch style magnetic hoops for brother.

Troubleshooting & recovery Symptom: Fabric shifted during an ITH seam

• Likely cause: Too little adhesion or rushed placement.

• Fix: Lightly respray the fabric’s wrong side and smooth again before stitching the tack-down.

Symptom: Quilting blocks don’t meet neatly

• Likely cause: Template marks off or hoop not centered.

• Fix: Re-measure the template, redraw centers, and use the machine’s trace to verify alignment before the next block.

Symptom: Picture design off-center

• Likely cause: Misaligned cross-hairs.

• Fix: Reprint template at 100%. Check that the hoop’s center lines match the fabric marks before pressing start.

Symptom: Crooked borders

• Likely cause: Inconsistent 1/4" seam.

• Fix: Use a seam guide and press before quilting. Adjust by resewing the worst offender if needed.

Symptom: Wavy edges after quilting borders

• Likely cause: Stretch during hooping.

• Fix: Support the project’s weight during stitching. Re-hoop with firm tension and verify the straight reference line on the vilene.

Symptom: Binding didn’t catch the back

• Likely cause: Binding width or placement off.

• Fix: Clip more densely, stitch slightly inward, and consider hand-finishing stubborn sections.

From the comments Q: I love this, but I have a cat! A: Perfect—swap the motif. Print your cat design’s template, align the cross-hairs just as you did for quilting, then stitch. The method is design-agnostic.

Pro tip If you work across multiple machine brands in your studio, using compatible accessories can streamline setups. Many embroiderers mix and match low-lift frames across ecosystems when available magnetic embroidery hoops for babylock.

Advanced workflow ideas

• Batch block piecing: Run multiple patchwork outlines in one hooping if your hoop allows, to trim and fold in sequence.

• Color play: Make two colorways and alternate block rotations for dynamic borders.

• Mixing text: Add a name or date alongside the picture design using the same template alignment approach.

Sourcing and setup notes

• For frequent rehooping, rigid frame systems can make life easier; explore options that suit your machine’s format embroidery hoops magnetic.

• If you prefer modular fixtures for consistent centering across projects, consider dedicated placement stations hoop master embroidery hooping station.

• Users who like frame-and-forget setups sometimes opt for branded magnetic frames compatible with their machine line magnetic hoops for brother.

Optional gear inspirations

• Some stitchers like broader frames when quilting or border-quilting larger repeats mighty hoop 11x13.

• If your brand supports it, low-deflection snap frames can speed multi-block quilting dime snap hoop.

Machine context

• The flow here translates well across multi-needle and single-needle embroidery machines. If you’re running a 6-needle class machine, you’ll find color changes and hooping particularly efficient brother pr 680w.

Finishing thought Build one, then batch a set: rotate blocks for mix-and-match placemats, change the central picture per recipient, and you have a gift stack that looks custom—because it is.