Janome Skyline S9 Couching That Actually Looks Expensive: The PC-1/PC-2 Setup, the “Weird” Yarn Guides, and the Clean Stitch-Out Routine

Couching is one of those techniques that makes people fall in love with embroidery again—right up until the first time the yarn snags, the hoop shifts, or the start tail gets stitched into a lump.

As an educator who has watched hundreds of students struggle with this, I can tell you: Couching is 10% art and 90% physics. It’s about managing the friction of a thick material passing through a machine designed for thin thread.

If you own a Janome Skyline S9, you already have a very capable couching system built around a dedicated accessory kit and built-in designs. The trick is setting it up the Janome way—including a couple of guide points that feel “unexpected” the first time you see them. We are going to move beyond the manual today and look at the sensory cues—how it should feel and sound—so you can get it right the first time.

Couching on the Janome Skyline S9: the calm truth before you start (yes, it’s supposed to look bulky)

Couching on the Janome Skyline S9 is simply embroidery thread “tacking down” a decorative yarn so you get surface texture that standard satin stitches can’t mimic. The video’s spiral sample shows exactly why people love it: the yarn becomes the star, and the thread becomes the quiet workhorse holding it in place.

If you’re new to couching, here’s the reassurance expert operators rely on: Ignore the mess of the first three seconds.

When the machine first starts, the yarn hasn't established tension yet. It might look loose. It might look wiggly. The stitch-out often looks messy at the start tail, and then effectively “snaps” into a clean, dimensional line once the yarn feed stabilizes. Don't panic-stop the machine immediately; give it 5 to 10 stitches to find its rhythm.

The couching accessory kit for Janome Skyline S9: PC-1 vs PC-2, and why “fits through the hole” is the real rule

The S9 couching setup in the video uses a small kit that includes:

• Two couching feet: PC-1 (thinner yarn, approx 1.5mm opening) and PC-2 (thicker yarn, approx 2mm opening).
• A top yarn guide (mounts up high so the yarn feeds smoothly).
• A needle bar set screw yarn guide (a small wire guide that keeps yarn aligned as the needle moves).

The "Dental Floss" Resistance Test

The most important selection rule they give is refreshingly practical: your yarn must be able to pull through the guide holes and the foot opening. There’s no dial to “make it fit.” If it drags, it will fight you the entire design.

Try this sensory check: Thread your yarn through the foot before attaching the foot to the machine. Pull the yarn back and forth.

• Too Tight: If it feels like pulling a shoelace through a tight knot, stop. It will snap your needle.
• Just Right: It should feel like pulling dental floss—smooth, with just a tiny hint of guidance friction.

They also point out you can experiment widely—variegated yarns, metallic-looking decorative yarns, and even using specialty thread choices to make the yarn pop. If you’re planning to use your janome embroidery machine for gifts or products, that “design potential is almost limitless” line is not hype—it’s a real creative multiplier.

Warning: Keep fingers, hair, jewelry, and loose sleeves away from the needle area during couching. Unlike regular thread that snaps easily, yarn is strong. If it tangles on a spool pin or your finger, it can yank your hand toward the needle bar with surprising force. Always monitor the yarn feed path visually while the machine runs.

The “hidden” prep pros do before Janome S9 couching (so the yarn doesn’t drag and the hoop doesn’t creep)

The video jumps quickly into the fun part, but in real life your results are decided before you press Start. Couching adds drag to the fabric. As the machine pulls the yarn, it creates a "side-load" on the hoop that normal thread doesn't.

Prep checklist (do this before you install PC-1/PC-2)

• Inventory Check: Confirm you have the PC-1/PC-2 foot, top yarn guide, and needle bar set screw yarn guide.
• Yarn Flow Test: Perform the "Dental Floss" test described above.
• Base Stability: Pick a stable fabric (the demo uses a cotton snippet).
• Stabilizer Engineering: Add stabilizer appropriate to your fabric (see decision tree below).
• Bobbin Check: Wind a full bobbin. You do not want to run out of bobbin thread mid-couching, as restarting a yarn line is notoriously difficult to hide.
• Hidden Consumable: Have a pair of curved snips (squeeze scissors) ready for trimming the thick yarn tail close to the fabric.
  

Stabilizer decision tree (fabric → backing choice for couching)

Use this as a practical starting point; your machine manual and your own testing should be the final authority. Couching is heavy; it requires a "foundation" like a house.

1) Is your fabric stable woven cotton/canvas (like a tote bag panel)?

• Yes → Use a medium cutaway (recommended) or a firm tearaway (only if the design is light).
• No → go to 2.

2) Is your fabric stretchy/knit or prone to distortion?

• Yes → This is the danger zone. Use cutaway (Mesh or Heavy) to prevent the yarn from puckering the fabric. Avoid Tearaway entirely.
• No → go to 3.

3) Is your fabric thin, soft, or easily marked by hoop pressure (Hoop Burn)?

• Yes → Use a stabilizer that supports without crushing the surface. This is where hardware matters.

A couching design puts significant drag on the fabric. If you routinely fight hoop marks ("hoop burn"), slow hooping processes, or fabric creep where the design outlines don't match, this is a hardware signal. Many studios move to magnetic embroidery hoops for janome compatible systems. Why? Because magnets hold the fabric and stabilizer sandwich firmly across the whole frame without the "crank and crush" damage of traditional rings. It’s not mandatory for couching—but it’s a massive quality-of-life improvement when working with thick, textured techniques.

Installing the Janome S9 top yarn guide and the needle bar set screw yarn guide (the alignment that prevents wandering yarn)

In the demo, Lori installs two guides, and the second one is the “aha” moment for most owners.

1) Top yarn guide: This mounts up high on the bobbin winder thread guide. It acts as a "triage" point to lift the yarn away from the machine body. 2) Needle bar set screw yarn guide: This small wire guide attaches directly at the needle bar set screw area.

Why this matters (The Physics): Couching yarn is heavier and has higher friction than embroidery thread. Gravity wants to pull it down; the machine vibration wants to shake it sideways. If the yarn approaches the foot at a sloppy angle, it will rub against the foot's edge, causing the needle to pierce the yarn (splitting it) rather than laying thread over it. The guides enforce a vertical entry path.

Threading yarn through the Janome Couching Foot PC-1: the side-slit trick that saves your sanity

This is one of the most useful details in the video: the couching foot looks like an embroidery foot, but it has a slit on the left side.

Instead of trying to feed yarn straight down through the top like a thread needle, you:

1. Hold the yarn horizontally.
2. Slide the yarn through the side slit.
3. Listen/Feel for the seating: You should feel it pop into the central channel.
4. Pull a 3-4 inch tail behind the foot.

That side-slit design is there because many decorative yarns are too soft (like mohair) or too bulky (like chenille) to “needle-thread” neatly from above.

Foot choice reminder: The foot must match yarn thickness—PC-1 for thinner yarns, PC-2 for thicker yarns.

Setup checklist (right before you pick a design)

• Hardware: PC-1 or PC-2 installed and tightened securely (finger tight + 1/4 turn with screwdriver).
• Pathing: Top yarn guide installed; yarn feeds smoothly.
• Verticality: Needle bar set screw yarn guide installed; yarn tracks straight down.
• Seating: Yarn seated in the foot via the side slit (check visually that it isn't half-caught on an edge).
• Tension: Fabric + stabilizer hooped firmly using the "drum skin" tap test.

If you’re using a standard hoop and you notice you’re constantly re-hooping to get the same tightness, a hooping station for machine embroidery can help you repeat hoop tension and placement more consistently—especially if you’re doing multiple pieces. Consistency in hooping prevents the fabric from flagging (bouncing) under the weight of the couching foot.

Finding “Couching Designs” on the Janome Skyline S9 screen (and why built-ins stitch cleaner than random files)

The video shows a very specific navigation flow:

• Go into the design menu where designs are organized by category.
• Select the category labeled “Couching Designs”.
• Choose a design (they select a spiral/swirl pattern).

Those built-in couching designs are digitized specifically for the drag coefficient of yarn. The spacing between tack-down stitches is calculated to hold the yarn without chopping it in half. Standard satin stitch designs usually won't work for this—they are too dense and will jam the machine.

Stitching the Janome S9 couching spiral: checkpoints, expected outcomes, and the start-tail decision

Once the design is selected, Lori notes it becomes “basically just doing normal embroidery”: position it, adjust size/placement if needed, and start.

Expert Modification: Speed Control. Before you press start, lower your speed. If your machine can do 1000 SPM (Stitches Per Minute), drop it to the 400-600 SPM range. Yarn needs microseconds longer to feed than thread. Running at max speed is the #1 cause of couching breakage.

Checkpoints (what to watch as it starts)

1) Yarn feed: The yarn should glide through the guides and foot without jerking. 2) Tack-down behavior: The embroidery thread should land consistently over the yarn, trapping it. 3) Hoop stability: The hoop should not “walk” or vibrate excessively.

Expected outcomes (what “good” looks like)

• The yarn stays centered under the tack-down stitches.
• The spiral forms smoothly without gaps caused by yarn lag.
• The yarn tail doesn’t get stitched into a hard knot at the start.

The start tail: trim it, or let the foot push it aside?

In the demo, Lori says you do want to trim the tail, but she intentionally lets the machine push it out of the way for demonstration.

My workshop rule is simple:

• Practice Run: Let the foot push the start tail aside.
• Final Product: Hold the yarn tail gently for the first 3-4 stitches, pause the machine, and trim the tail close to the fabric. Then resume. This prevents a "knobby" start point that looks unprofessional.
  

Warning: If you switch to high-performance magnetic hoops, treat them like industrial tools—not toys. Magnetic Pinch Hazard: Keep fingers away from the meeting point of the magnets. Medical Safety: Keep strong magnets away from pacemakers and implanted medical devices.

Operation checklist (before you walk away from the machine)

• Tail Management: Start tail managed (trimmed for clean work).
• Spool Position: Yarn skein positioned on the table or floor so it unwinds freely (ensure it doesn't catch on the table edge).
• First Layer: Observe the first 20 stitches to confirm tack-down.
• Pause Protocol: If you hear a thumping sound (needle hitting yarn hard), Stop immediately.

If you’re building a workflow around repeatable hooping and faster loading, many owners compare embroidery machine hoops options and eventually add an embroidery magnetic hoop for quicker clamping. The logic is simple: less struggle hooping means more energy left for managing technical creative work like couching.

Why some Janome S9 couching designs look “thin” (and the triple-pass detail you should notice)

A common surprise is that thin yarn can look sparse—especially on open curves.

The video gives a key insight: their spiral design goes around three times to build a thicker, fuller result. They also clarify that this is design-dependent—some designs will, some won’t.

What that means in practice:

• If your couching looks skimpy, it might not be the yarn—it might be the design’s strategy.
• Visual Check: Look at the screen preview. Does it show multiple distinct lines over the same path?
• Testing multiple built-in couching designs with the same yarn is a fast way to learn what your machine “likes.”

This is also where experienced digitizers think differently: couching success is about path planning and consistent tack-down, not just “more stitches.” In general, density and repeat passes can increase fullness, but too much can also increase friction and stress on the hooping system—so balance matters.

The comment-section reality check: which Janome models support this couching kit (and what to do if you can’t find accessories)

Two questions show up repeatedly in the comments, and they confuse almost everyone.

“Can I do this on a Janome Memory Craft 500E / Janome 500E?”

The channel replies that, according to Janome’s website, this couching product is for use by the Memory Craft/Quiltmaker 15000 and Skyline S9.

Pro tip: If you own a different model (like the 500E), don't force it. Machines vary in supported feet height, firmware categories, and how the needle bar area is built.

However, just because you can't use this specific couching kit doesn't mean you can't upgrade your 500E's performance in other ways. If you are researching accessories for that model, keep your ecosystem clean. People often search for janome memory craft 500e hoops or janome 500e hoops specifically because mixing hoop standards is an expensive mistake. Stick to hoops designed for your specific attachment mechanism.

“Where can I buy the needle bar set / accessories in Germany?”

The channel’s reply is practical: Janome handles countries individually, so you should contact your Janome corporate office in Germany for assistance.

Watch out: Third-party listings can be incomplete (missing the needle bar set screw guide) or mislabeled. For couching, that small wire guide is not optional—it’s the steering wheel for your yarn. Without it, you will crash.

The upgrade path that actually makes sense: when to stay domestic, when to go magnetic, and when multi-needle pays you back

Couching is a texture technique, but it can also be a product differentiator—tote bags, textured patches, team gear accents, boutique monograms with raised outlines.

Here’s the “tool upgrade” diagnostic I use with my students to decide if they need to spend money:

1) If your bottleneck is hooping time or hoop marks (Hoop Burn)

• Trigger: You dread hooping, you re-hoop often because of wrinkles, or delicate fabrics (velvet, performance wear) are getting crushed rings.
• Criteria: If hooping takes longer than the stitch-out on small designs, you are losing productivity.
• Solution: Consider magnetic embroidery hoops for janome 500e (or your specific model). Why? Check compatibility first, then upgrade to magnets to eliminate ring-crush and speed up the loading process by 50%.

2) If your bottleneck is repeatability (same placement, same tension)

• Trigger: You do batches of 10+ items, or your wrists hurt after a long session.
• Criteria: If you can’t reproduce the same hoop tightness twice in a row, your stitch quality will drift.
• Solution: A hooping station can standardize loading; magnetic hoops reduce the physical force required to clamp.

3) If your bottleneck is production volume (Color changes & Speed)

• Trigger: You are turning down orders because the machine is tied up all day.
• Criteria: If you are waiting on thread color changes more than you are stitching, or if changing from couching back to regular embroidery is killing your workflow.
• Solution: This is the threshold for a multi-needle platform (like a high-value SEWTECH multi-needle embroidery machine). These machines allow you to keep standard colors threaded while dedicating one needle to special techniques, drastically increasing throughput and profit margins.

Quick troubleshooting: symptoms → likely cause → fix (Janome S9 couching)

Symptom: Yarn tail gets stitched into a hard knot/bump

• Likely cause: Tail left long and caught under early back-and-forth tack-down stitches.
• Fix: Pause after stitch #3 and trim the tail flush with the fabric.

Symptom: Yarn won’t feed smoothly (Jerky motion)

• Likely cause: Yarn is too thick for the chosen foot, or the skein is snagging on the table edge.
• Fix: Switch from PC-1 (1.5mm) to PC-2 (2.0mm), or place the yarn skein on the floor to increase the "loop" slack.

Symptom: Couching line looks thin or sparse

• Likely cause: Yarn is thin and the design is a single-pass style.
• Fix: Choose a built-in couching design that makes multiple passes (the spiral shown goes around three times), or "double up" thin yarn (thread two strands through the foot).

Symptom: Yarn wanders off the stitch line on curves

• Likely cause: The yarn approach angle is sloppy because the guides aren't used.
• Fix: Re-check the needle bar set screw yarn guide. Is the yarn inside the loop? It acts as the "final funnel" before the needle.

The finish that makes couching look professional (even on a simple spiral)

The video ends with a clean, raised spiral that looks intentionally “textured,” not accidental.

To get that same professional read on your projects:

• Manage the Start: Trim tails early.
• Control the Speed: Slow down to let the physics of the yarn catch up to the needle.
• Stabilize the Base: Use the right backing (and potentially magnetic hoops) so the heavy yarn doesn't pull the fabric off-grain.

If you treat couching like a system—guides, foot choice, yarn fit, stabilizer, and hoop stability—you’ll get consistent texture that looks expensive, not experimental.

FAQ

• Q: Why does Janome Skyline S9 couching look messy or loose in the first 5–10 stitches?
  A: This is common—Janome Skyline S9 couching often “settles in” after the yarn establishes a stable feed, so do not panic-stop immediately.
  • Let the machine run 5–10 stitches before judging the line.
  • Watch the yarn path through the top yarn guide and into the couching foot channel for any snagging.
  • Reduce speed before starting if the yarn is slow to catch up.
  • Success check: after a few stitches, the tack-down thread lands consistently over the yarn and the line suddenly looks cleaner and more dimensional.
  • If it still fails, stop and redo the yarn fit check through the foot and guides (draggy yarn will never stabilize).
• Q: How do Janome Skyline S9 owners choose between the Janome Couching Foot PC-1 and PC-2 for different yarn thicknesses?
  A: Choose the Janome Skyline S9 couching foot by “pull-through feel,” not by guesswork—PC-1 is for thinner yarn and PC-2 is for thicker yarn.
  • Perform the “Dental Floss” resistance test by pulling the yarn through the foot opening before installing the foot.
  • Switch to PC-2 if the yarn drags, jerks, or feels forced through PC-1.
  • Do not try to “make it fit” by tension changes; the yarn must physically glide through the openings.
  • Success check: the yarn feels smooth like dental floss—guided but not tight—and feeds without jerky motion once stitching starts.
  • If it still fails, change to a thinner yarn or a different decorative yarn that passes the guides and foot freely.
• Q: What prep checklist should be done before Janome Skyline S9 couching to prevent hoop creep and yarn drag?
  A: Prep decides the result—Janome Skyline S9 couching adds drag, so stabilize and stage supplies before pressing Start.
  • Confirm the full kit parts are present: PC-1/PC-2 foot, top yarn guide, and the needle bar set screw yarn guide.
  • Wind a full bobbin to avoid a mid-design restart (hard to hide with yarn lines).
  • Hoop fabric and stabilizer firmly using the “drum skin” tap test.
  • Keep curved snips/squeeze scissors ready to trim the thick yarn tail close to the fabric.
  • Success check: the hooped fabric sounds/feels taut when tapped and the hoop does not “walk” when the first stitches begin.
  • If it still fails, upgrade stabilizer strength (cutaway is often safer for heavy couching) or reassess fabric choice for more stability.
• Q: How do Janome Skyline S9 owners install and use the needle bar set screw yarn guide to stop couching yarn from wandering on curves?
  A: Use both Janome Skyline S9 yarn guides—the needle bar set screw yarn guide is the “final funnel” that keeps yarn entering vertically.
  • Install the top yarn guide to lift the yarn away from the machine body and smooth the approach.
  • Install the needle bar set screw yarn guide and ensure the yarn is actually inside the small wire loop.
  • Re-route the yarn so it drops straight down into the couching foot channel (avoid side-angle rubbing).
  • Success check: the yarn stays centered under tack-down stitches on curves instead of drifting off the stitch line.
  • If it still fails, stop and inspect the yarn for rubbing at the foot edge (misalignment can cause the needle to pierce/split the yarn).
• Q: How do Janome Skyline S9 users thread yarn into the Janome Couching Foot PC-1 or PC-2 without fighting bulky yarn?
  A: Use the Janome Skyline S9 couching foot side-slit—slide the yarn in from the left instead of forcing it straight down.
  • Hold the yarn horizontally and slide it through the left side slit of the couching foot.
  • Feel/listen for the yarn “pop” into the center channel, then pull a 3–4 inch tail behind the foot.
  • Confirm visually that the yarn is seated in the channel, not half-caught on an edge.
  • Success check: the yarn sits centered in the foot channel and pulls smoothly when you tug it by hand.
  • If it still fails, switch feet (PC-1 ↔ PC-2) because poor seating is often a yarn-too-thick symptom.
• Q: How do Janome Skyline S9 operators prevent the couching yarn start tail from becoming a hard knot or bump?
  A: Manage the start tail early—trim it close after the first few stitches for clean Janome Skyline S9 couching starts.
  • Hold the yarn tail gently for the first 3–4 stitches (final projects).
  • Pause, then trim the tail close to the fabric with curved snips.
  • Resume stitching once the tack-down has captured the yarn securely.
  • Success check: the start point looks flat and intentional, not like a raised “knobby” lump.
  • If it still fails, shorten the starting tail and re-check that the yarn is feeding smoothly (jerky feed increases tail tangling).
• Q: What safety precautions should be followed during Janome Skyline S9 couching when using strong yarn and moving needle areas?
  A: Treat Janome Skyline S9 couching like a high-torque setup—keep hands and anything loose away because yarn can yank unexpectedly.
  • Keep fingers, hair, jewelry, and loose sleeves away from the needle area while stitching.
  • Monitor the yarn feed path visually so it cannot snag on a spool pin, table edge, or your hand.
  • Stop immediately if you hear thumping (needle hitting yarn hard) and correct the setup before continuing.
  • Success check: the machine sound stays smooth and rhythmic, and the yarn never jerks or pulls toward the needle bar.
  • If it still fails, slow the machine further and re-check yarn fit through the foot and guides before restarting.