Hatch Embroidery 3 “Donut” Shapes That Actually Sew Clean: Remove Overlays + Manual Pull Compensation That Stops Gaps

When you’re digitizing in Hatch Embroidery 3, a “shape with a hole” (donut, ring, oval cutout, badge opening) looks simple—until you stitch it and see daylight between the fill and the border. That gap isn’t bad luck. It’s physics.

Machine embroidery is a battle against tension. Thread pulls, fabric yields, and hoops slip. As an educator with two decades on the shop floor, I can tell you that the gap between your fill and your border is usually caused by "Push and Pull" mechanics: vertical stitches pull the fabric inward, while horizontal borders push it outward.

In this industry-grade walkthrough, we are moving beyond basic software clicks. You will build the shape cleanly using Remove Overlays and add a Satin border. Then, we will apply the "Secret Sauce"—manual pull compensation—by extending the Tatami fill under the border. We will also cover the physical variables—hooping, stability, and machine limitations—that software alone cannot fix.

The moment Hatch Embroidery 3 designs betray you: a hole + border that looks perfect… until it stitches

A ring shape is basically two problems stacked together:

1. The Cut: You need a reliable way to create the hole without creating bulky, bulletproof overlaps that break needles.
2. The Marriage: You need the fill and border to stay mechanically connected after the fabric is distorted by thousands of needle penetrations.

The video’s key lesson is that vertical Tatami fill pulls the fabric inward along the direction of the stitch. If your design is impeccable on screen but shows a white gap on the fabric, it means the fabric shrank while the design stayed the same size.

If you’ve ever delivered a patch, badge, or applique-style outline and dealt with the "Customer Frown" caused by a visible fabric halo, this is the engineering fix that saves your reputation.

The “hidden” prep before you draw anything in Hatch Digitizer Level (it saves rework later)

Before you start clicking tools, you need to set up your digital and physical workspace to succeed. In my workshops, I call this "Pre-Flight Protocol."

Prep checklist (do this before drawing):

• Software Check: Confirm you are in Hatch Embroidery 3 at Digitizer Level.
• Role Assignment: Decide which object is the Fill (Tatami) and which is the Border (Satin). Mixing these up later is a nightmare.
• Angle Strategy: Plan your stitch angle. If your Tatami runs vertically (90 degrees), the fabric will shorten vertically. You must compensate there.
• Consumables Check: Have you replaced your needle recently? A burred needle drags fabric, increasing distortion. (Beginner tip: Use a 75/11 needle for standard woven fabrics).
• Visual Planning: Name or color-code objects early so the Sequence Viewer stays readable.
  

Draw the base oval in Hatch Embroidery 3 (Circle/Oval Tool + Ctrl) so it stays true

In geometry, close enough is not good enough. The instructor starts with precision:

1. Select the Circle/Oval Tool.
2. Hold Ctrl while dragging.

Why "Ctrl" matters: This compels the software to lock the axis. This ensures a perfect circle or a perfectly straight oval. If you freehand this, your border will have variable width—some parts will be 3mm, others 3.5mm. To the naked eye, this looks "amateur." To the machine, it means inconsistent tension.

Duplicate + resize the inner oval (Shift scaling) so your hole stays centered and clean

Now you create the negative space (the hole) by duplicating and scaling.

1. Right-click the base object and choose Duplicate.
2. Color Switch: Change the duplicate to a high-contrast color (Red vs Blue). This visual anchor helps you distinguish the "cutter" from the "cut."
3. The Concentric scaling: Hold Shift and drag a corner handle to scale inward.
4. Target Size: The video references an inner oval of approx 75.31 mm (W) × 90.61 mm (H).

The Shift key is crucial here. It scales from the center point out. If you drag without Shift, you lose the center alignment, creating a lopsided donut that will look warped when stitched.

Punch the hole the fast way: Edit Objects → Remove Overlays (the clean donut method)

This is the "Digital Scissors" moment.

1. Select the inner object (the one representing the hole).
2. Go to Edit Objects.
3. Click Remove Overlays.

Why not just layer white on top? I see beginners do this often: they put a white object on top of a blue object to "hide" it. Do not do this.

• The Problem: You end up with two layers of thread (Blue + White) making the patch stiff as a board (Bulletproof Embroidery).
• The Fix: "Remove Overlays" actually deletes the underlying stitches. This reduces stitch count, saves thread, and keeps the patch flexible.
  

Build a professional Satin border in Hatch: Duplicate → Outline → Satin (and don’t ignore distortion warnings)

To get the crisp definition shown in the video, we add the Satin finish:

1. Right-click the ring object and Duplicate it.
2. Select the duplicate.
3. Click Outline.
4. Change stitch type to Satin.

The Danger Zone: At this stage, your design looks perfect on the monitor. But the instructor flags the reality: Distortion. A standard Satin border usually needs a width of at least 3.5mm to 4.0mm to cover the raw edges of a patch effectively. If you go too thin (under 2.5mm), the push-pull of the Tatami fill will pull away from the border, leaving gaps.

Sensory Check: When you sew this later, listen to the machine. A wider Satin stitch should verify a rhythmic, smooth "hum." If it sounds angry or punchy, your density is too high.

The gap fix that actually works: manual pull compensation by extending Tatami under the Satin border

This is the "Expert Move." Most software has "Automatic Pull Compensation," but for geometric shapes like rings, Manual Compensation is superior because it gives you absolute control.

You are essentially "tucking the shirt in" before you put the belt on. You want the Tatami fill (the shirt) to extend deep under the Satin border (the belt).

1) Make node editing painless: convert square nodes to curve nodes (Spacebar)

In Reshape mode, square nodes define straight lines and sharp corners. They fight you when you try to move them.

• Select the square nodes causing trouble.
• Press Spacebar.
• The Magic: Nodes convert to circles (curve points). The line becomes fluid.

This reduces the "cognitive load" of fighting the mouse. The curve flows naturally, allowing for precision adjustments.

2) Turn off TrueView so you can see what you’re really editing

To do precise structural engineering, you need to see the beams, not the drywall.

• Use Disable TrueView or press T on your keyboard.

You will now see the wireframe (stitch lines). This allows you to see exactly where the needle penetrations will occur relative to the outline.

3) Extend the fill outward at the top and bottom curves (under the border)

The instructor manually drags the boundary nodes of the fill object outward—specifically at the top and bottom of the oval.

The "Why" (Physics Lesson): Notice the stitch angle of the Tatami. It is vertical (running Top to Bottom).

• Fabric Logic: Stitches pull the fabric together along the length of the stitch.
• Result: The oval shortens in height. The top pulls down; the bottom pulls up.
• The Remedy: You must over-digitize the height. Extend the fill effectively past the border line. When the fabric shrinks during sewing, the fill effectively "retreats" to the perfect visual position.
  
  
  

The measuring rule from the video (use it every time)

Guesswork is expensive. The instructor offers a calibration method I recommend for all production houses:

• Step 1: Sew a test on scrap fabric (same material as final).
• Step 2: Measure the visible gap with a ruler or calipers.
• Step 3: Apply the 1:1 Rule. If the gap is 1 mm, extend the fill by 1 mm in the software.

Beginner Sweet Spot: If you are unsure, aim for an overlap of 0.6mm to 1.0mm. This is generally a safe zone for standard cotton twill or pique fabrics.

Why this works (and why auto settings may still leave gaps): push-pull, stitch direction, and fabric reality

Software algorithms are generalized; your specific job is unique. Be aware of the variables that software cannot see:

• Fabric Stretch: Performance knits shrink more than denim.
• Stabilizer: Is your backing tight? (Drum skin tight).
• Hoop Tension: Is it consistent?

If your stabilization is weak, the manual compensation we just did might not be enough. The fabric will pucker. Conversely, if your hooping is incredibly tight and stable, you might not need as much compensation.

The "Hooping" Variable: Even the best digitizing cannot rescue a loose hoop. If the fabric slips 1mm, your design is off 1mm. This is where basic tools often fail professionals. Consistent tension is the holy grail of embroidery, which is why learning proper techniques for hooping for embroidery machine is a critical skill set that goes hand-in-hand with digitizing.

Troubleshooting the two most common Hatch problems: symptoms → causes → fixes

These are the frustrations that make people quit. Let's fix them before they happen.

Problem 1: The "Smile" Gap (Registration Error)

Symptom: You see fabric peeking through at the very top and bottom of the ring, between the fill and the border. Cause: Vertical Tatami stitches are pulling the fabric inward (shortening the object). Fix: Manual Pull Compensation. Reshape the fill object to extend under the border by at least 0.8mm - 1.0mm in the direction of the stitch angle.

Problem 2: The "Jittery" Mouse (Node Fighting)

Symptom: You try to reshape the curve, but it creates sharp corners or looks faceted. Cause: You are using Square Nodes (Corner points) on a curved surface. Fix: Select nodes and press Spacebar to convert to Curve Nodes.

Warning: Needle/Safety Hazard.
When troubleshooting at the machine, never put your hands near the needle bar while the machine is live or in "Standby." Always engage the Emergency Stop or turn the machine off before changing needles or untangling thread nests. A needle through the finger is a career-changing injury.

The production-minded setup: how to avoid “perfect digitizing, messy sew-out” in the real world

The video focuses on software, but in my shop, 50% of "bad digitizing" is actually "bad hooping." If your hooping technique varies from shirt to shirt, your gaps will appear and disappear randomly.

Here relates the physical workflow to the digital file:

Decision Tree: Fabric Behavior → Stabilizer strategy → Hooping Upgrade

Use this logic to determine how aggressive your compensation needs to be.

The Hidden Bottleneck: If you are doing production runs (50+ shirts), traditional screw-tighten hoops are a pain point. They cause wrist strain (Carpal Tunnel is real in this industry) and leave "Hoop Burn" (shiny rings on the fabric). This is a physical problem that software cannot fix.

If you find yourself constantly re-hooping because the fabric slipped, or if you are fighting thick seams that refuse to stay in standard hoops, it is time to look at hardware solutions. Many shops implement a hooping station for machine embroidery to ensure every logo is placed in the exact same spot on every shirt.

Furthermore, for efficient workflow, professionals often switch to magnetic embroidery hoops. Unlike screw hoops that pinch and drag, magnetic hoops clamp straight down. This reduces fabric distortion before you even press start, meaning your software compensation works more accurately.

Warning: Magnet Safety.
Magnetic frames use high-power neodymium magnets. They can pinch fingers severely (blood blister risk) and cause interference with pacemakers. Keep them at least 6 inches away from medical implants and sensitive electronics.

The “any shape” proof: repeat the same Remove Overlays workflow on custom polygons

At the end of the video, the instructor proves the concept isn't just for ovals.

• Create a filled custom polygon.
• Create an inner shape.
• Remove Overlays.

The Universal Law: Whether it is a star, a shield, or a complex logo, the physics remain the same. Identify the stitch angle, identify the pull direction, and extend the fill under the border in that direction.

The upgrade path when you’re tired of re-hooping and re-stitching (tools that pay back in real jobs)

As you move from "making one for fun" to "making 100 for profit," your tolerance for inefficiency will drop. If you are digitizing clean files but still losing money on the floor, the bottleneck is handling time.

Here is the hierarchy of upgrades designed to match your growth:

1. Level 1: The Consistency Fix (Low Cost)
   For left-chest logos, alignment is everything. Using a dedicated embroidery hooping station ensures that your placement doesn't drift. It acts as a "third hand," holding the hoop while you align the garment.
2. Level 2: The Efficiency Fix (Medium Cost)
   If "Hoop Burn" is ruining delicate garments, or if re-hooping takes longer than the actual sewing, consider using a repositionable embroidery hoop system (often magnetic). These allow you to adjust the fabric without un-hooping the entire garment.
3. Level 3: The Velocity Fix (High Cost)
   If your single-needle machine forces you to stop and re-thread for every color change, you are capping your income. An essential upgrade for volume production is a multi-needle machine (like the SEWTECH line), which allows you to set up 12+ colors at once. When paired with a streamlined system like the hoopmaster hooping station, you transform from a "crafter" to a "manufacturer."

Setup checklist (so your Hatch file edits translate to clean stitching)

• Object Type: Verify Border is Satin (Width > 3.0mm) and Fill is Tatami.
• Cut Check: Verify the hole is truly cut (Sequence Viewer usually shows a 'Ring' icon).
• Node Smoothness: Have you used Spacebar to smooth out the resizing nodes?
• Visual Confirmation: Use Disable TrueView to visually confirm the Fill extends under the Border wireframe.
• Angle Check: Identify stitch angle and apply max compensation to the opposing ends.

Operation checklist (test sew-out like a pro, then lock the recipe)

• Material Match: Sew the test on the exact fabric/stabilizer combo as the final job.
• Bobbin Check: Ensure bobbin tension is correct (Standard: "I" test, or feeling slight resistance like dental floss).
• Inspection: Check the border-to-fill join under bright light. Look for "grinning" (fabric showing through).
• Measure: If a gap exists, measure it in millimeters.
• Correction: Go back to Hatch, extend the fill by that measurement, and save as "V2". Don't guess—measure.

Disclaimer: Proceed with care. Machine embroidery involves fast-moving needles and mechanical parts. Always follow your specific machine manufacturer's safety guidelines.

FAQ

• Q: In Hatch Embroidery 3 Digitizer Level, why does a Tatami fill ring show a visible gap between the Tatami fill and the Satin border after stitching?
  A: This is usually push-pull distortion; fix it by manually extending the Tatami fill under the Satin border in the direction the fabric is being pulled.
  • Disable TrueView (press T) so the wireframe shows the real stitch boundaries.
  • Enter Reshape, then drag the fill object boundary outward at the top/bottom of the oval when the Tatami angle runs vertically.
  • Apply the 1:1 rule: measure the stitched gap in mm, then extend the fill by the same mm in Hatch.
  • Success check: under bright light, the Satin border fully covers the fill edge with no “grinning” (fabric halo) at the top and bottom.
  • If it still fails: verify stabilizer and hoop tension, because loose hooping can exceed any software compensation.
• Q: In Hatch Embroidery 3, what is the cleanest way to create an oval “donut” (shape with a hole) without stitching bulky overlaps?
  A: Use Edit Objects → Remove Overlays to truly cut the hole instead of stacking a “cover” object on top.
  • Draw/duplicate the inner oval that represents the hole, and select that inner object.
  • Click Edit Objects → Remove Overlays to delete underlying stitches where the hole should be.
  • Avoid layering a white fill on top to “hide” stitches, because it increases stitch count and makes the embroidery stiff.
  • Success check: the Sequence/preview shows a real cutout area, and the sew-out feels flexible instead of “bulletproof.”
  • If it still fails: re-check that the correct object (the inner “hole” shape) was selected before Remove Overlays.
• Q: In Hatch Embroidery 3, why does reshaping an oval ring create faceted corners, and how do I smooth the curve quickly?
  A: Faceting usually happens because square (corner) nodes are controlling a curve; convert them to curve nodes before adjusting.
  • Select the problem nodes in Reshape mode.
  • Press Spacebar to convert square nodes to curve nodes (circles).
  • Move fewer nodes with small adjustments to keep the curve stable.
  • Success check: the curve redraws smoothly without sharp “kinks,” and the Satin border width looks even.
  • If it still fails: toggle off TrueView (press T) so you can edit the real outline instead of the rendered stitches.
• Q: In Hatch Embroidery 3, what Satin border width helps prevent a ring outline from showing gaps after sewing?
  A: A Satin border is commonly more reliable at 3.5–4.0 mm for covering edges; very thin Satin (under about 2.5 mm) is more likely to reveal gaps from distortion.
  • Set the border object to Outline → Satin after duplicating the ring.
  • Keep the border wide enough to “cover” expected pull-back from the fill.
  • Listen during sewing; overly dense settings can sound “punchy” instead of a smooth hum.
  • Success check: the border looks crisp and fully covers the fill edge all the way around the ring.
  • If it still fails: increase manual pull compensation (extend the fill under the border) rather than only widening the Satin.
• Q: In production sewing, what stabilizer and process choices reduce ring-shape gaps between Tatami fill and Satin border on pique and performance knit fabrics?
  A: Match stabilizer to fabric stretch and add holding steps (often basting) so the fabric cannot move while the Tatami pulls.
  • Use Cutaway (2.5 oz) as a common starting point for pique (polo).
  • Use Cutaway (mesh or poly) + a basting stitch as a common starting point for performance knit.
  • Hoop firmly and consistently; weak stabilization can make even correct digitizing gap.
  • Success check: after sewing, the ring shows minimal puckering and no repeatable top/bottom “smile gap.”
  • If it still fails: run a test sew-out on the exact fabric/stabilizer combo and apply the measured 1:1 compensation adjustment in Hatch.
• Q: When troubleshooting thread nests or changing needles on a multi-needle embroidery machine, what is the safest needle-area procedure?
  A: Never work near the needle bar while the machine is live; stop the machine and make it safe before touching thread, needles, or nests.
  • Engage the Emergency Stop or power the machine off before placing hands near the needle area.
  • Clear the nest, then replace the needle if it is burred or suspect (a damaged needle can increase distortion).
  • Restart with a controlled test to confirm stitching is stable before full production.
  • Success check: the machine runs without re-nesting, and stitching sounds smooth rather than harsh or “angry.”
  • If it still fails: pause and inspect hooping/stabilization, because fabric movement can trigger repeated nesting and misregistration.
• Q: For high-volume left-chest logos, when should an embroidery shop move from technique fixes to magnetic hoops or a multi-needle SEWTECH embroidery machine?
  A: Upgrade when the main problem is handling-time and repeatability (re-hooping, fabric slipping, hoop burn), not the Hatch file itself.
  • Level 1 (technique): standardize placement and hooping so fabric tension is consistent across garments.
  • Level 2 (tool): consider magnetic hoops when screw hoops cause hoop burn, wrist strain, or frequent re-hooping from slippage.
  • Level 3 (capacity): consider a multi-needle SEWTECH machine when single-needle color changes are the bottleneck and you need higher throughput.
  • Success check: the same file produces consistent join coverage (no random gaps) across multiple garments with less rework time.
  • If it still fails: do a measured test sew-out and tune manual pull compensation, because hardware improves consistency but cannot replace correct compensation.