Bobbin Work on a Bernette b35: The “Upside-Down” Free-Motion Trick for Bold, Raised Texture (Without Wrecking Your Tension)

Bobbin work is a paradox. It creates the most organic, hand-crafted textures—resembling tree bark, animal fur, or thick moss—yet it is produced on the very machine you use for hemming pants. It looks like magic when you flip the fabric over, but the process involves breaking one of the cardinal rules of sewing: messing with the bobbin case tension.

As someone who has spent two decades teaching embroidery, I know this technique often induces "fear of the machine." You are worried about ruining your tension, jamming the hook assembly, or snapping threads. I understand that hesitation.

However, if you follow the "Guardrails" I’ve established in this guide—specifically regarding the spare bobbin case and speed control—this is the safest entry point into dimensional embroidery. This walkthrough follows Rebecca’s experiment on a Bernette b35, using thick Perle cotton in the bobbin and standard thread in the needle. I will guide you through the tactile sensations you need to feel and the sounds you need to hear to ensure you aren’t just hoping for the best, but stitching with certainty.

Bobbin Work (Reverse Machine Embroidery) Is the Fastest Way to Get Real Texture—If You Accept One Weird Rule

The "Weird Rule" is a mental flip: You are working blind to the texture.

In bobbin work, the "pretty" thread (the thick Perle cotton) lives in the bobbin, meaning it stitches onto the underside of the fabric. Consequently, you must mark your design and stitch on the back of the fabric. When you look down at the needle, you will see flat, boring straight stitches. The magic is happening underneath, against the feed dogs (or the throat plate cover).

The Physics of It: Think of your top thread as a "anchor" or "tack." Its only job is to plunge through the fabric, grab that thick heavy rope from the bobbin, and pull tight enough to secure it, but loose enough to let it "bloom" and sit on the surface.

If you are coming from the world of digitized embroidery sizes and perfect satin stitches, this is freeing. There is no digitizing software here. Your hands regulate the stitch length, and your speed regulates the density. It is the bridge between rigid machine precision and the fluidity of hand art.

The Non-Negotiable Tool List: Perle Cotton + a Spare Bobbin Case (This Is Where People Ruin Their Machine)

I cannot stress this enough: Do not use your primary bobbin case for this.

Adjusting the tension screw on a bobbin case is a delicate operation. If you alter your daily-use case for thick thread, you might spend hours trying to recalibrate it for regular 60wt sewing thread later. Professional workshops always have a "Green Case" (Standard) and a "Red Case" (Bobbin Work).

The Essential Kit:

• The Machine: Bernette b35 (or any machine with a front-load or top-load bobbin that allows tension adjustment).
• The "Sacrificial" Bobbin Case: A spare case dedicated solely to thick threads.
• The Thread: Perle Cotton No. 5 or No. 8. (Warning: Do not use stranded embroidery floss that separates ply; it will snag).
• Top Thread: Standard, strong sewing polyester or cotton (40wt or 50wt).
• The Foot: Darning / Free-motion / Embroidery foot.
• Hoop: A sturdy wooden hoop or a high-tension specialized hoop.
• Hidden Consumables: A small screwdriver (usually comes with the machine), new Topstitch needles (size 90/14 or 100/16 preferred to punch through the bulk), and adhesive stabilizer.

One keyword that matters for searchers: if you’re specifically researching a bernette embroidery machine, understand that this technique bridges the gap. While a computerized Bernette performs programmed tasks, learning bobbin work on a manual machine teaches you the feel of thread tension that will make you a better operator of computerized systems later.

The “Hand-Wind It or Regret It” Habit: Winding Thick Perle Cotton Without Jams

Rebecca winds the Perle cotton onto the bobbin by hand. In my shop, this isn't just a suggestion; it is a requirement.

Why Hand-Winding is Critical: Perle cotton is heavy. If you use the machine's automatic winder, the high speed stretches the cotton, causing it to "relax" and expand later inside the bobbin case. This expansion can lock the bobbin in place, stopping your machine dead with a thud.

The Sensory Check: Wind it slowly and evenly.

• Visual: The surface should be flat, not hilly.
• Tactile: It should feel firm but not rock-hard. Do not overfill it; leave about 2mm of rim visible. If it bulges effectively, it will drag against the case walls.

Warning: Keep fingers well clear of the needle area during free-motion work, and never reach under the presser foot while the machine is running. A darning foot leaves the needle exposed, and a distraction can lead to a serious needle-through-finger injury.

Prep Checklist (Do this before you touch the tension screw)

• Spare Bobbin Case obtained and marked (put a dot of nail polish on it if needed so you don't mix them up).
• Hand-Wound Bobbin is ready; no loops or loose ends hanging out.
• Needle Freshness check: Install a new Universal or Topstitch 90/14 needle. Old needles will deflect and break with thick bobbin thread.
• Lint Check: Blow out the bobbin area. Bobbin work creates more lint than usual; starting clean prevents jams.
• Screwdriver Ready: Locate the tiny screw on the side of the bobbin case.

The Safe Way to Loosen Bobbin Case Tension for Thick Thread (And Why a Spare Case Saves Your Sanity)

This is the step that scares beginners. We are going to intentionally "break" the tension settings on the spare case.

In the video, Rebecca loosens the screw "significantly." Here is the data-driven way to execute this safely:

The "Yo-Yo" Test Procedure:

1. Baseline: Put the thick bobbin in the case. Hold the thread tail and let the case hang. It likely won't move.
2. Adjust: Turn the small screw on the case counter-clockwise. Think of a clock face: turn it 15 minutes (quarter turn) at a time.
3. Test: Hold the thread again. You want the bobbin case to slide down the thread with zero shaking (like a yoyo dropping fast).
4. The "Dental Floss" Feel: When you pull the thread through the tension spring with your hand, there should be almost no resistance. It should feel loose, unlike the "dental floss between tight teeth" feeling of normal sewing.

Note: For incredibly thick threads, Rebecca notes the tension spring can be removed entirely. I advise against this for beginners as re-assembling that tiny spring is difficult. Usually, loosening the screw 1 to 2 full rotations is sufficient.

Replacing a bobbin case costs $15-$30. Repairing a machine timing issue costs $100+. Buying the spare case is simply cheap insurance that allows you to experiment without consequences.

The “Upside-Down” Marking Trick: Draw on the Back, Because the Bobbin Thread Becomes the Front

Because the bobbin thread is the star of the show, it appears on the bottom. Therefore, you must draw your tree, text, or design on the back side (wrong side) of the fabric.

Crucial Hooping Advice: Rebecca uses a wooden hoop. If you use one, you must tighten the screw with a screwdriver, not just your fingers.

• The Sound Check: Tap on the fabric. It should sound like a drum (Thum-Thum). If it sounds like paper fluttering, it is too loose. Loose fabric equals puckering.

Many of my students struggle with hand fatigue when trying to get fabric drum-tight in wooden hoops. If you find yourself in this category—or if you simply hate the "ring marks" left beautifully hooped fabric—you might eventually look at alternatives like repositionable embroidery hoop concepts. However, the true game-changer for people with wrist pain or high-volume needs is the magnetic hoop. For domestic machines, these snap the fabric tight instantly without the "unscrew-tighten-pull" struggle.

Bernette b35 Free-Motion Setup That Actually Works for Bobbin Work (Feed Dogs, Foot, Stitch, Tension)

We need to set the machine to "Manual Mode." Here is the configuration profile:

• Feed Dogs: DROPPED. (If your machine cannot drop them, use a darning plate to cover them). You are now the feed dog; you control the movement.
• The Foot: Darning / Embroidery Foot.
• Stitch: Straight Stitch (Center position).
• Stitch Length: Set to 0 (since you are moving the fabric, the machine setting doesn't matter, but 0 prevents the feed mechanism from trying to engage).

Top Tension Strategy (The Sweet Spot): Rebecca suggests starting slightly higher than normal.

• Standard Sewing: Usually 4 or 5.
• Bobbin Work Start: Try 5 or 6.
• Why? You need the top thread to be tighter than the bottom thread to pull the heavy cord slightly into the fabric, securing it. If top tension is too loose, the heavy bobbin thread will just lay on the surface and fall off.

Expert Habit: Create a "sandwich" scrap (Fabric + Stabilizer). Stitch a line. Flip it over.

• If the thick thread is straight and loose: Tighten Top Tension.
• If the thick thread is pulled so tight it disappears into the fabric: Loosen Top Tension.

Stitching the Tree Trunk: How to Move the Hoop So the Texture Looks Like Bark (Not Like Scribbles)

Rebecca stitches the trunk first, with no backing for that textured section.

The Hand Movement Technique:

1. Speed Sync: Run the machine at a medium-high speed (foot pedal), but move your hands slowly.
2. The Ratio: High Needle Speed + Slow Hand Speed = High Density (Short Stitches). This creates the "Bark" texture.
3. Low Speed: If you move your hands fast, you get long, loose stitches. This looks messy.

Sensory Checkpoints:

• Auditory: Listen for a rhythmic machine hum. A struggling, thumping sound usually means the bobbin is catching. Stop immediately.
• Tactile: The hoop should glide. If it feels like you are pushing it through mud, check if your fabric is sagging and dragging on the feed dogs.

Expected Outcome: When you flip the hoop, you should see the Perle cotton sitting proudly on the surface, looking almost like a rope laid out in patterns. It should not be flat.

The Sticky Stabilizer Experiment: Self-Adhesive Tear-Away as a “Hoopless” Solution (When Your Fabric Is Too Small)

In the video, Rebecca encounters a common issue: handling a small piece of fabric. She pivots to using self-adhesive tear-away stabilizer.

She peels the paper backing off the stabilizer and sticks the fabric down. This technique is often called "Floating." It is a legitimate workaround when you can’t hoop odd shapes, near collars, or small scraps. Many people search for a floating embroidery hoop approach, and sticky stabilizer is the most accessible manual version of this.

The Risk Factor: Adhesive stabilizer introduces friction.

• The "Brake" Effect: The sticky backing can drag on the metal throat plate of your machine.
• Counter-measure: You may need to help feed the fabric slightly more than usual. Do not force it, or you will deflect the needle (bend it), causing it to strike the throat plate.

Hoopless Leaf Stitching: Why Top Tension 3.5 Can Save Your Texture When the Fabric Isn’t Drum-Tight

For the leaves, Rebecca goes "Hoopless." She guides the fabric/stabilizer sandwich directly under the needle.

Because the fabric is no longer stretched tight in a hoop, it has more "give." To compensate, she lowers the top tension to 3.5.

Why the Physics Changed: Without the hoop keeping the fabric taut, a high top tension (like 5 or 6) would pucker the fabric instantly (the "scrunched up" effect). adjusting down to 3.5 allows the stitch to form without crushing the fabric.

Workflow Upgrade: If you find yourself doing this often—stitching small patches or items that don't fit well in a frame—holding them by hand is tiring and inaccurate. A proper embroidery hooping station can reduce handling time and keep placement consistent, even if you are just tacking things down. For hobby work, you can get away with careful marking; for repeatable results, stabilizing the setup is key.

Color Changes in the Bobbin: Swapping to Green Perle Cotton Without Losing Your Place

Rebecca changes bobbin thread to a green Perle cotton for the foliage.

The "Pull Up" Technique: When you start a new color in bobbin work:

1. Hold the top thread tail.
2. Drop the needle down and up once.
3. Pull the top thread to bring the thick bobbin tail to the top (your working side).
4. Hold both tails as you start stitching so they don't get sucked into the machine.

Batching for Sanity: If you are doing a forest of 10 trees, wind 10 green bobbins and 10 brown bobbins first. Do all the brown trunks on all pieces, then switch setup. Constantly re-threading thick Perle cotton is a rhythm killer.

Tension Dial Reality Check: When 3.5 vs 4 Changes the “Lift” of Your Texture

Rebecca experiments with the top dial, moving between 3.5 and 4 to see the effect on the green foliage.

The Standard for "Good" Texture:

• Too Tight (Top Tension 5+ on loose fabric): The Perle cotton is strangulated. It looks thin and flat.
• Too Loose (Top Tension <2): The bobbin thread creates loops that can snag on zippers or buttons later.
• Just Right (Sweet Spot 3-4): The thread looks round, full, and dimensional, but feels secure to the touch.

If you are the kind of embroiderer who wants repeatable, production-grade consistency without constantly fiddling with dials, this is where tool upgrades start to matter. For example, using magnetic embroidery hoops can reduce hooping variability. If the fabric tension is consistent every time (thanks to the magnets), your machine tension settings stay valid every time. Variable hooping causes variable results.

Adhesive Stabilizer Side Effect: Needle Gumminess (What to Do Before It Becomes Skipped Stitches)

Rebecca notes a slight "gumminess." This is the friction from the needle passing through the glue layer of the stabilizer thousands of times.

The Diagnosis: If you hear a distinct TICK-TICK-TICK sound, or if you see skipped stitches:

1. Stop.
2. Inspect: Look at the needle shaft. Is there a glob of goop?
3. Remedy: Wipe the needle with a little rubbing alcohol or sewing machine oil. If it's bad, replace the needle.

This is why many reliable studios keep adhesive stabilizer as a situational tool, not the default for every job.

The Tear-Away Moment: Removing Self-Adhesive Tear-Away Without Distorting Your Stitches

Rebecca removes the stabilizer.

Technique: Place your thumb directly over the stitching to support it, and tear the stabilizer away against your thumb. Do not rip it like a band-aid, or you will distort your beautiful, loose bobbin stitches.

Iron-On Note: Rebecca mentions not using iron-on tear-away yet. Be cautious with iron-ons for bobbin work; the heat required to fuse them might flatten your textured Perle cotton if you aren't careful.

Final Texture Reveal: What “Good” Bobbin Work Looks Like (So You Don’t Settle for Mediocre)

Rebecca’s finished tree is a perfect example of successful bobbin work:

• The Trunk: Looks like raised rope or bark.
• The Leaves: Look like moss.
• The Front: Clean, dimensional.
• The Back: Messy (that's okay, nobody sees it).

If your result looks flat, the usual culprits are: bobbin thread caught in the tension spring (not loose enough), or you moved your hands too fast, stretching the "rope" tight.

Stabilizer Decision Tree: Choose Backing Based on Fabric

Use this logic flow to prevent puckering disasters.

Start Here → What fabric are you using?

A) Sturdy Woven (Denim, Canvas, Heavy Cotton)

• Are you hooping it tight?
  • YES: You likely do not need stabilizer. The fabric can support the thread.
  • NO: Use Tear-Away underneath to prevent distortion.

B) Light Woven (Calico, Quilting Cotton)

• Are you hooping it?
  • YES: Use Tear-Away. Without it, heavy bobbin thread will pucker the fabric.
  • NO (Floating): Use Adhesive Tear-Away.

C) Knits / Stretchy Fabric (T-Shirts)

• Rule: Bobbin work is heavy. Knits are weak.
• Recommendation: Use Cut-Away Mesh. Tear-away will likely result in a hole or massive distortion.

Troubleshooting Bobbin Work: Symptom → Cause → Fix (The Stuff That Stops You Mid-Project)

Setup Checklist (Right before you start stitching)

• Feed Dogs: Lowered (or covered).
• Foot: Darning/Embroidery foot secured.
• Needle Thread: Standard thread threaded correctly.
• Bobbin: Perle cotton in the SPARE case (tension loosened).
• Fabric: Design marked on the BACK.
• Tension: Top tension set between 3.5 - 5.0 (depending on test).

Operation Checklist (While you stitch)

• Sound Check: Machine is humming rhythmic, not thumping.
• Feel Check: Fabric is gliding, not dragging.
• Visual Check: Check the underside every 5 minutes to ensure texture is building.
• Refill Check: Do not run the bobbin completely empty; the tension changes at the very end of the spool. Stop when low.

The Upgrade Path: When You Love the Technique but Hate the Setup Time

If you finish this project and think, "I love the result, but my wrists hurt from hooping," or "I want to sell these, but I can't make them fast enough," that is a valid signal to upgrade your tools.

Diagnose Your Pain Point:

1. "Hooping is painful / leaves marks on delicate fabric."
   • Solution Level 1: Use better stabilizer.
   • Solution Level 2 (Tool Upgrade): Switch to Magnetic Hoops. They use magnets to hold fabric instantly without the friction-burn of traditional rings. Terms like magnetic embroidery hoop are your gateway to understanding how to save your wrists and your fabric.
   • > Warning: Magnetic hoops are powerful industrial tools. Keep them away from pacemakers/implanted medical devices. Never let the magnets snap together on your fingers—pinch injuries are real.
2. "I can't get the placement straight on the back."
   • Solution: A hooping station for embroidery ensures your design lands in the exact same spot on every shirt, removing the guesswork of "eyeballing it."
3. "I have an order for 50 textured trees."
   • Solution: You have outgrown the domestic machine method. A hoopmaster system combined with a multi-needle machine (like SEWTECH) allows you to produce these textures using specialized digitized files (like "faux fur" digitizing) much faster than free-motion work.

Bobbin work is an art form. Start with the spare case, respect the physics of the thick thread, and enjoy the magic of drawing with texture. Happy stitching

FAQ

• Q: How can a Bernette b35 sew bobbin work with Perle cotton without permanently messing up Bernette b35 bobbin case tension?
  A: Use a dedicated spare Bernette b35 bobbin case and loosen only that case for thick Perle cotton.
  • Label a spare bobbin case (paint dot/tape) so it never gets mixed with the regular case.
  • Loosen the bobbin-case tension screw counter-clockwise in small steps (about a quarter turn at a time) and re-test each time.
  • Perform the “yo-yo test”: hang the bobbin case by the Perle cotton tail and aim for a smooth, fast slide with minimal resistance.
  • Success check: pulling Perle cotton through the tension spring should feel almost resistance-free (not “dental floss tight”).
  • If it still fails, rewind the bobbin by hand and re-check for overfilling or bulging that can cause drag.
• Q: Why does Perle cotton jam or make a “Thunk-Thunk” sound in a Bernette b35 during bobbin work?
  A: The Perle cotton bobbin is often wound too tight/fast and expands, causing the bobbin to bind in the bobbin area.
  • Stop immediately and remove the bobbin to prevent a hard jam.
  • Rewind the Perle cotton bobbin by hand, slowly and evenly (do not use the machine winder for this technique).
  • Leave about 2 mm of the bobbin rim visible and avoid a bulging “hilly” wind.
  • Success check: the machine returns to a steady, rhythmic hum and the fabric moves smoothly without thudding.
  • If it still fails, clean lint from the bobbin area and re-check that the bobbin is not overfilled or dragging on the case walls.
• Q: What Bernette b35 settings should be used for free-motion bobbin work (feed dogs, foot, stitch, stitch length, top tension)?
  A: Set the Bernette b35 for free-motion: feed dogs down, darning/embroidery foot on, straight stitch centered, stitch length 0, then tune top tension by test stitching.
  • Drop the feed dogs (or use a darning plate if needed) and install a darning/free-motion/embroidery foot.
  • Select straight stitch (center needle) and set stitch length to 0.
  • Start top tension around 5–6 for hooped work, then test on a fabric+stabilizer scrap “sandwich” and adjust.
  • Success check: when flipped over, the Perle cotton looks rounded and raised, and it feels secure—not buried and not loopy.
  • If it still fails, adjust top tension in small steps (about 0.5–1.0) and re-test before changing anything else.
• Q: How can Bernette b35 bobbin work avoid puckering when using hoopless “floating” with self-adhesive tear-away stabilizer?
  A: Reduce top tension and manage drag when the fabric is not drum-tight in a hoop.
  • Stick fabric to self-adhesive tear-away and guide the sandwich steadily; expect more friction on the throat plate.
  • Lower Bernette b35 top tension (the example setting used was 3.5) to reduce immediate puckering on unhooped fabric.
  • Help the fabric glide—do not force it, since forcing can bend the needle and cause needle plate strikes.
  • Success check: the fabric stays flat (no scrunched “gathering” around stitches) while the Perle cotton still sits proud on the surface.
  • If it still fails, switch back to hooping drum-tight or change stabilizer choice (tear-away vs adhesive tear-away vs cut-away mesh by fabric type).
• Q: How can a Bernette b35 user prevent skipped stitches caused by adhesive stabilizer “needle gumminess” during bobbin work?
  A: Stop at the first signs and clean or replace the needle before stitch quality collapses.
  • Listen for a distinct tick-tick-tick and watch for skipped stitches as early warning signs.
  • Inspect the needle shaft for adhesive buildup and wipe with rubbing alcohol (or replace the needle if buildup is heavy).
  • Install a fresh Topstitch needle (90/14 or 100/16 was recommended for punching through bulk).
  • Success check: stitches become consistent again and the machine sound returns to smooth, even punching without ticking.
  • If it still fails, reduce adhesive use for routine work and reserve sticky stabilizer for “can’t-hoop” situations.
• Q: What safety steps should be followed when doing Bernette b35 free-motion bobbin work with an exposed-needle darning foot?
  A: Keep hands away from the needle path and never reach under the presser foot while the Bernette b35 is running.
  • Position hands on the hoop/fabric edges, not near the needle opening, because the darning foot leaves the needle exposed.
  • Stop the machine completely before adjusting fabric, checking the underside, or clearing thread tails.
  • Control speed: use a manageable pedal speed so the needle is never “surprising” your fingers.
  • Success check: hands stay outside the stitch zone at all times and fabric movement remains controlled without sudden grabs.
  • If it still fails, slow down further and use a hoop to create a safer hand distance compared with small hoopless pieces.
• Q: When should an embroiderer move from wooden hoops to magnetic embroidery hoops or a multi-needle machine after struggling with bobbin work setup time?
  A: Use a staged upgrade based on the bottleneck: stabilize first, then reduce hooping pain/variability, then scale production if orders demand it.
  • Level 1 (Technique): Improve hoop tension (“drum-tight” sound test) and match stabilizer to fabric to reduce puckering and rework.
  • Level 2 (Tool): If hooping causes wrist pain, inconsistent tension, or hoop marks, magnetic embroidery hoops may reduce setup struggle by clamping fabric quickly and consistently.
  • Level 3 (Capacity): If repeat orders (e.g., dozens of textured pieces) exceed domestic-machine throughput, consider production upgrades such as a multi-needle embroidery machine for repeatable output.
  • Success check: setup time drops and tension results become repeatable from piece to piece with fewer dial changes.
  • If it still fails, track the exact failure point (hooping fatigue vs placement accuracy vs volume) and upgrade only the component that removes that constraint.