Sarasota Embroidery Event with Trevor Conquergood: What You’ll Learn About Needles, Thread, Hooping, Stabilizers, and Software (and How to Prep Like a Pro)

If you have ever signed up for an embroidery class and left thinking, “That was fun… but I still don’t know what to do when my fabric shifts, my stitches pucker, or my hoop leaves permanent 'burn' marks on my favorite shirt,” this Sarasota event announcement should catch your attention.

The reality of machine embroidery is that it is a variable-heavy craft. You are taking a flexible material (fabric), stabilizing it with a non-woven backing, and subjecting it to thousands of needle penetrations per minute at high tension. It is chaotic by nature.

Tops Vacuum and Sewing (Greg Bank) is hosting an in-person embroidery education event in the Sarasota / Lakewood Ranch area with Trevor Conquergood—one of the most renowned software and education experts in the United States—partnering with Floriani. The promise is broad (needles, thread, hooping, stabilizers, designs, and software), which is exactly why preparation matters. Broad classes can be gold, but only if you show up ready to ask the right questions and test the right variables against your specific struggles.

Lock in the Sarasota / Lakewood Ranch embroidery event details before it sells out (Hyatt Place, Dec 10–11)

Greg Bank announces the event will be held at the Hyatt Place in Lakewood Ranch (Sarasota area) on December 10th and 11th, with a strict limit of 40 people per day. In the video, they explicitly encourage signing up immediately because they expect enthusiasts to drive in from all over the region.

Here’s the practical takeaway from a shop-owner and educator perspective: when a class caps at 40 seats, the value isn’t just the lecture—it’s the access. Smaller groups mean you can get eyes on your specific problems (hooping marks, shifting knits, thread breaks, design distortion) and leave with answers that match your machine and your workflow.

However, access is wasted without preparation. If you walk in blank, you will walk out with generic advice.

What to do right now (so you don’t waste the opportunity):

• Audit your failures: Write down your top 3 recurring failures. Be specific. Instead of "it looks bad," write "the outline doesn't line up with the fill on stretchy t-shirts" or "I get birdnesting (clumps of thread) on the bottom only when I use metallic thread."
• Build a "Problem Kit": (Detailed in the later section). You need to bring physical evidence of your struggles.
• Define your "End Game": Decide whether you are attending as a hobbyist (one-off projects for family) or as a production-minded embroiderer (making 50 shirts for a local business). That mindset changes the questions you should ask regarding speed, hoop types, and machine reliability.
  

“Beginner to expert” sounds nice—here’s how each skill level should show up to get real value

In the video, Greg and Trevor both stress the event is for everyone: beginner, intermediate, and expert. While true, a "one-size-fits-all" approach can be dangerous if you don't manage your own expectations.

Here is how I calibrate success for different experience levels:

• The Beginner (The "Fear" Stage): Your goal is Safety and Baseline. You want to leave knowing exactly which needle (e.g., 75/11 Ballpoint for knits) and which stabilizer (e.g., Cutaway for wearables) prevents disaster. You aren't looking for speed; you are looking for a finished product that doesn't ruin the garment.
• The Intermediate (The "Frustration" Stage): Your goal is Consistency. You likely know the basics but suffer from random failures. You want to reduce re-hooping attempts, eliminate "hoop burn" (those shiny crush marks left by standard plastic hoops), and understand why your tension varies. You are ready to move from "Checking settings" to "Feeling the machine."
• The Expert / Shop Owner (The "Scale" Stage): Your goal is Throughput and Profit. You need to know how to setup faster, reject fewer garments, and scale from 1 piece to 40 pieces without quality drift. You are looking for tool upgrades that buy you time.

If you are in that intermediate-to-production zone, pay special attention to your hooping workflow. A lot of "mystery" embroidery problems are actually physics problems: uneven tension, fabric stretched off-grain, or the stabilizer drifting away from the fabric.

One sentence that frames the whole day: If you can control Fabric + Stabilizer + Hoop Tension, you can control 90% of your outcomes.

The curriculum Trevor lists—needles, thread, hooping, stabilizers, designs, and software—maps to one core system

Trevor outlines the topics they’ll cover: needles, thread, hooping, stabilizers, designs, and embroidery software. Beginners often view these as separate checklist items. In reality, they are an interconnected ecosystem of tension and friction.

Here is the "Why" behind the curriculum that experts know:

• Needle (The Penetrator): It’s not just about size. A #75/11 needle is standard, but the point matters. A ballpoint slides between knit fibers (preventing holes), while a sharp point cuts through denim. Rule of thumb: Change your needle every 8 hours of stitching or immediately if you hear a "popping" sound as it penetrates fabric.
• Thread (The Variable): Thread has weight and drag. Rayon is soft but weaker; Polyester is strong but stiffer. Thread tension isn't a setting on a screen; it's a physical feeling. When you pull thread through the needle eye (presser foot down), you should feel resistance similar to flossing your teeth.
• Hooping (The Anchor): This is the #1 failure point. The hoop determines if the fabric is neutral or distorted.
• Stabilizer (The Foundation): Its job is to support the stitch count, not just the fabric. High density (lots of stitches) requires heavier or multiple layers of stabilizer.
• Design + Software (The Instruction): Digitizing tells the machine where to go, but if the "path" (underlay) doesn't account for the "terrain" (fabric nappiness), you will get poor coverage.

When one part is wrong, the others get blamed. People say "my machine hates this thread," when the real issue is the fabric was stretched in the hoop (trampoline effect) and the needle deflection caused the shredding.

If you are currently trying to build a business or a serious hobby, this is where a proper hooping setup pays off. Many embroiderers move from manual, struggle-filled hooping to a specialized workflow involving tools like a hoop master embroidery hooping station because it forces consistency. It aligns the chest placement identically every time, removing human error from the equation.

The “Hidden” Prep: what experienced embroiderers bring to a class like this

Even though this is an announcement, preparing like a pro allows you to test what you learn immediately. Don't just bring a notebook; bring data.

The "Problem Kit" to bring:

• Fabric Swatches: 2–3 scraps of the actual material you use (e.g., slimy performance interlock, thick hoodie fleece).
• Your Stabilizer: The exact cutaway or tearaway you currently use.
• Your Thread: One spool of your reliable thread and one spool of the "problem child" thread.
• Video Evidence: A 10-second video on your phone of your machine making the "bad noise" or failing.

Warning: Mechanical Safety:
If you plan to perform maintenance or test needles during a hands-on session, always power down the machine before reaching into the needle bar area. Embroidery machines have high-torque servo motors; a needle driven through a finger is a common and devastating injury for distracted operators.

Prep Checklist (Verify these before you leave home):

• Problem Portfolio: Photos of your 3 worst failures (front & back).
• Consumables: A labeled bag of your current stabilizer scraps.
• Thread: Your specific "problem" spool.
• The "Hidden" Tools: A fresh pack of 75/11 needles and a water-soluble marking pen.
• Questions: 3 specific questions written down (e.g., "Why does my outline gap on the bottom right of a circle?").

Hooping and stabilizers: the two topics that quietly decide whether your embroidery looks professional

The video explicitly calls out hooping and stabilizers. This is critical. In my 20 years of experience, bad hooping causes 80% of design registration errors.

Here is the "Golden Rule" of hooping: Your hoop is not there to stretch the fabric; it is there to hold the fabric in a neutral state while the stabilizer bears the weight of the stitches.

A quick decision tree: fabric type → stabilizer direction

Stop guessing. Use this logic flow to determine your starting point.

Decision Tree (Fabric → Stabilizer Strategy):

1. Is the fabric stretchy (T-shirts, dry-fit, spandex, beanies)?
   • YES: You MUST use Cutaway Stabilizer. Tearaway will eventually disintegrate under the movement of the fabric, leading to gaps. Only Cutaway provides permanent stability. Use a temporary spray adhesive to bond the fabric to the stabilizer.
   • NO: Go to step 2.
2. Is the fabric unstable/sheer but non-stretchy (Silk, thin Rayon)?
   • YES: Use a No-Show Mesh (PolyMesh). It provides the support of a cutaway without the bulk showing through the light fabric.
   • NO: Go to step 3.
3. Is the fabric heavy and stable (Denim, Canvas, Twill caps)?
   • YES: Tearaway Stabilizer is usually sufficient. Since the fabric supports itself, the stabilizer just needs to ensure clean edge definition.

Hooping physics in plain English (Sensory Check)

When you use a traditional two-piece plastic hoop, you are relying on friction and a screw to hold the fabric.

• The Error: Many users pull the fabric after the hoop is tightened to remove wrinkles. This pre-stretches the fibers. When you un-hoop later, the fabric snaps back to its original shape, and your perfect circle becomes an oval (puckering).
• The Fix: The fabric should be "taut, not tight." Tap it. It should make a dull, flat thud—not a high-pitched ring like a snare drum.

If hooping is physically difficult for you (thick seams, wrist pain) or you are getting "hoop burn" (crushed velvet/pique), this is a trigger moment to look at your tools.

The upgrade path: Solving the Hoop Burn problem

If you regularly fight with thick items (Carhartt jackets) or delicate items (performance polos), standard hoops are often the enemy.

The industry solution here is the magnetic frame. Many professionals and serious hobbyists switch to magnetic embroidery hoops.

• Why? They don't force the fabric into a ring. They clamp it flat from the top and bottom using powerful magnets.
• The Result: Zero hoop burn, no need to wrestle the inner ring, and the ability to hoop thick seams without popping the hoop open.

Warning: Magnet Safety:
Magnetic hoops use industrial-grade magnets. They are incredibly strong.
1. Pinch Hazard: They can snap together instantly, crushing fingers. Handle by the edges.
2. Medical Danger: Keep them at least 6 inches away from pacemakers or insulin pumps.
3. Electronics: Keep away from credit cards and older hard drives.

Setup Checklist (The "Pre-Flight" Check):

• Stabilizer Check: Is the stabilizer bonded/pinned to the fabric (no floating gaps)?
• Grain Check: Is the fabric grain running straight up and down in the hoop?
• Hoop Check: Is the movement restricted? Ensure the hoop arms aren't hitting the machine bed.
• Needle Check: Is the needle straight? Roll it on a flat table; if the tip wobbles, bin it.
• Bobbin Check: Is your bobbin thread creating a visible "H" pattern on the back (1/3 white in the center)?

“From sketch to stitch”: Trevor’s thread sketches on paper—and what that teaches you about digitizing

Trevor holds up hand-drawn sketches: the Railway Museum, the Toronto skyline. He explains he makes "thread sketches."

Even if you aren't a digitizer, this visualization technique is powerful. When you look at a design on a screen, don't just see a picture; try to see the path.

• Line Weight: In a sketch, a thick line is heavy. In embroidery, a thick line is a Satin Column. If that column is too wide (7mm+), it will snag and loop.
• Shading: In a sketch, shading is light pencil. In embroidery, this is a light density fill or a "Tatami" stitch. If you put a heavy solid fill on top of another heavy solid fill, you create a "bulletproof vest" patch that creates needle breaks.

Ask this at the event: "How do I know if a design is too dense for my specific fabric?" This is the million-dollar question that saves you from ruining shirts.

Embroidering on paper: what to watch for so it doesn’t turn into shredded confetti

Trevor mentions embroidering on paper. This is a fantastic, low-cost way to practice, but it is unforgiving. Paper has zero elasticity. Once the needle punches a hole, that hole is permanent.

Quick Rules for Paper Embroidery:

1. Needle: Use a sharp needle, size 75/11 or even 70/10. Do not use a ballpoint (it will tear the paper rather than pierce it).
2. Density: You must reduce the stitch density. If the needle hits the same spot 3 times, it acts like a perforation stamp, and your design will fall out.
3. Speed: Slow down. Paper generates friction and heat differently than fabric.

The hooping workflow question you should ask at the event (Speed vs. Quality)

Most people ask, “What stabilizer should I use?” The better question for anyone wanting to do this seriously is:

“What is the most repeatable hooping method for my volume?”

If you are hand-hooping one item an hour, your technique matters most. If you are doing 20 items, your tools matter most. The bottleneck in production is never the stitching speed (SPM); it is always the "down time" between hoops.

If you are exploring a station workflow to increase speed, ask to see how a hooping station for embroidery machine allows you to pre-measure placement. This ensures that every Left Chest logo is exactly 7 inches down from the shoulder seam, every single time.

Furthermore, if you are struggling with clamping thick items, ask specifically about the compatibility of a magnetic embroidery hoop with your specific machine model. Not all hoops fit all arms, and knowing the compatibility (e.g., specific brackets for Brother vs. Janome vs. commercial machines) is vital data to gather at the event.

Registration and sign-up: treat this like a limited-seat production class

In the video, they recommend calling the store to reserve seats. Do not treat this like a casual drop-in.

The Professional Mindset:

• Arrive Early: Get a seat near the front to see the screen clearly.
• Network: Talk to the person next to you. "Do you use magnetic hoops? Which stabilizer works for you?" The herd often has the answer.
• Documentation: Take photos of settings screens if permitted. A photo of a density setting is worth 1000 words of notes.

The “Upgrade” moment: when better tools stop being optional and start paying you back

As you learn from Trevor and the Floriani team, you will reach a tipping point. You will realize that your frustration isn't caused by a lack of talent, but by the limits of basic tools.

If you find yourself spending 15 minutes fighting to hoop a tote bag, or refusing orders for thick jackets, that is the trigger for an upgrade.

The Logic of Upgrading:

1. Level 1 (Technique): Use the right needle and stabilizer (Cutaway for knits!).
2. Level 2 (Workflow Tools): Implement standardized hooping. Learning how to use magnetic embroidery hoop systems can cut your loading time by 50% and eliminate hoop burn, making your work look retail-ready instantly.
3. Level 3 (Capacity): If you are consistently running orders of 20+ pieces, or if you are tired of stopping to change thread colors manually on a single-needle machine, it is time to look at multi-needle solutions like SEWTECH machines. This isn't just about speed; it's about walking away while the machine does the work.

Embroidery is a journey from "hoping it works" to "knowing it will work." Events like this provide the knowledge, but upgrading your toolkit provides the consistency.

Operation Checklist (The Run Sequence):

• Placement: Did you mark the center point on the fabric with a water-soluble pen/chalk?
• Trace: Did you run the "Trace" function to ensure the needle won't hit the hoop?
• The "First 100 Stitches": Start the machine at a slower speed (e.g., 400-600 SPM). Watch the first few color stops closely. If the fabric ripples now, stop immediately. It won't fix itself.
• Listen: A happy machine hums. A rhythmic "thump-thump" means the needle is dull or hitting a seam. A grinding noise means a birdnest is forming in the bobbin area. Stop immediately.
  

FAQ

• Q: How should a traditional two-piece plastic embroidery hoop hold fabric to prevent hoop burn and puckering on knit T-shirts?
  A: Keep the fabric neutral—taut, not stretched—because the hoop holds position while the stabilizer carries stitch stress.
  • Hoop: Tighten the hoop first, then stop; do not pull fabric after tightening (avoids the “trampoline effect”).
  • Tap-test: Tap the hooped area and aim for a dull, flat thud—not a high-pitched drum ring.
  • Stabilize: Use cutaway stabilizer for knits and bond fabric to stabilizer with temporary spray adhesive so the fabric cannot float.
  • Success check: After unhooping, circles stay round (not oval) and the garment surface is not shiny or crushed.
  • If it still fails: Reduce hoop pressure, re-check fabric grain direction in the hoop, and consider switching to a magnetic embroidery hoop for delicate or crush-prone fabrics.
• Q: What stabilizer should machine embroiderers choose for stretchy fabrics like T-shirts, dry-fit interlock, spandex, or beanies to prevent registration errors?
  A: Use cutaway stabilizer for stretchy fabrics because tearaway often breaks down with garment movement.
  • Select: Start with cutaway as the default for wearables and stretch materials.
  • Bond: Use temporary spray adhesive to attach fabric to the cutaway so the layers move as one.
  • Avoid: Do not rely on tearaway for knits when the goal is long-term shape and outline alignment.
  • Success check: Outlines line up with fills without shifting, and the design does not ripple during the first minutes of stitching.
  • If it still fails: Verify the fabric was not stretched during hooping and check that stabilizer is not “floating” with gaps.
• Q: How can machine embroiderers confirm bobbin tension is acceptable by checking the “H pattern” on the back of an embroidery design?
  A: Look for a balanced back showing roughly one-third bobbin thread in the center of satin/fill areas (the “H” look).
  • Stitch: Run a small test on the same fabric + stabilizer combo you plan to use.
  • Inspect: Flip the sample and look for a consistent center showing bobbin thread rather than bobbin dominating the whole area or disappearing.
  • Adjust: If the back is messy, re-thread carefully and ensure the bobbin is seated correctly before changing settings.
  • Success check: The back looks consistent and controlled (not loopy, not all bobbin, not all top thread).
  • If it still fails: Swap to a fresh needle and re-check hooping neutrality, because bad hooping can mimic “tension problems.”
• Q: What “first 100 stitches” procedure should machine embroiderers use to catch puckering, rippling, and birdnesting before a garment is ruined?
  A: Start slower and watch the first stitches closely, because early ripples and noises rarely “fix themselves.”
  • Slow down: Begin around 400–600 SPM for the initial section.
  • Observe: Watch the fabric surface—if rippling starts, stop immediately and re-hoop rather than continuing.
  • Listen: Treat grinding as a birdnest warning and stop right away to clear the bobbin area.
  • Success check: The fabric stays flat with no early ripples, and the machine sound is a steady hum (not rhythmic thumping or grinding).
  • If it still fails: Check for a dull/bent needle, confirm the hoop is not being struck (run a trace), and verify stabilizer is firmly bonded to the fabric.
• Q: What needle choice and replacement rule should machine embroiderers follow to reduce fabric damage and prevent “popping” penetration sounds on knits?
  A: Use an appropriate point style (ballpoint for knits) and replace needles regularly—often every 8 hours of stitching or immediately if a popping sound appears.
  • Choose: Use a 75/11 ballpoint needle for knit garments to slip between fibers rather than cutting them.
  • Replace: Change the needle on schedule and any time penetration sounds change suddenly.
  • Inspect: Roll the needle on a flat table; if the tip wobbles, discard it.
  • Success check: The machine sounds smooth and the knit shows no new holes or runs near stitch lines.
  • If it still fails: Re-check hooping (over-stretching knits is common) and confirm stabilizer choice is cutaway for stretch fabrics.
• Q: What safety steps should machine embroiderers follow before reaching into the needle bar area during troubleshooting or needle changes?
  A: Power down the embroidery machine before hands go near the needle bar area to avoid high-torque servo movement injuries.
  • Stop: Turn the machine off before touching needles, needle bar, or nearby moving assemblies.
  • Remove risk: Keep focus—avoid “quick fixes” while distracted during a class or demo setting.
  • Resume carefully: After restarting, run a trace/check path before stitching to prevent hoop strikes.
  • Success check: Hands stay clear during any powered motion and the machine only moves when intentionally commanded.
  • If it still fails: Pause the session and ask an instructor/tech to observe the machine behavior before further adjustments.
• Q: What magnetic embroidery hoop safety rules should operators follow to prevent finger pinch injuries and medical-device risks?
  A: Handle magnetic hoops by the edges and keep strong magnets away from pacemakers/insulin pumps and sensitive items.
  • Grip: Separate and bring magnets together slowly; never let magnets “snap” shut near fingers.
  • Distance: Keep magnetic hoops at least 6 inches away from pacemakers or insulin pumps.
  • Protect: Keep magnets away from credit cards and older hard drives.
  • Success check: The hoop closes without sudden snapping and fingers never enter the clamping zone.
  • If it still fails: Use a safer handling routine (one hand per side, edge grip only) and consider asking for a handling demo before repeated use.