Table of Contents
- Primer: What This Workflow Achieves (and When to Use It)
- Prep: Tools, Files, and Fast Housekeeping
- Setup: Hoops, View, and Safe Resizing Rules
- Operation: Edit Your Design Step by Step
- Quality Checks: What “Good” Looks Like at Each Milestone
- Results & Handoff: Saving, Color Lists, and Next Steps
- Troubleshooting & Recovery: Quick Fixes for Common Snags
- From the comments: Helpful clarifications and pro tips
Video reference: “Basic SewWhat-Pro Embroidery Editing Tutorial” by Dani's Daily Deals
If you’ve ever opened an embroidery design and wished you could size it precisely, tame the color list, or add a polished name beneath—this is your roadmap. We’ll walk through a clean SewWhat-Pro workflow that mirrors a real project: a rainbow applique with clouds and a personalized name.
What you’ll learn
- How to open a PES design and place it on the grid with confidence
- Exactly how to resize without distortion (and quickly undo mistakes)
- How to recolor applique outlines/tack-downs and satin arcs for clarity
- How to merge letter files to build a name and connect cursive smoothly
- How to increase satin stitch density for rich, forgiving coverage
Primer: What This Workflow Achieves (and When to Use It) SewWhat-Pro is purpose-built for editing stitch files before you ever hoop fabric. This workflow focuses on beginner-friendly actions: opening a PES, resizing by percentage, normalizing applique colors for visibility, building a name from individual letter files, and thickening satin stitches so your text pops. It’s ideal when you want creative control beyond your machine’s on-screen editing.
- When to use it: Anytime you need to adjust design size to a hoop, unify thread colors for a clearer stitch plan, or add personalized text.
- What you’ll produce: A refined project file with aligned color steps, correct hoop orientation, and text sized/densified for a professional finish. embroidery machine for beginners
Quick check
- Can you open your design and see it on the grid? If yes, you’re ready to proceed.
From the comments
- Embrilliance is available for Windows as well, not only for Mac (clarified by a community member). Use the editor you’re most comfortable with for your OS.
Prep: Tools, Files, and Fast Housekeeping You’ll need:
- Computer with SewWhat-Pro installed
- A PES embroidery design (example: rainbow with clouds)
- Optional: Individual letter PES files for the name you’ll add
- A basic understanding of your embroidery machine’s flow (hooping, applique placement, tack-down, trimming)
Housekeeping that speeds you up:
- Organize design and letter files into clearly named folders (the tutorial’s letter files lived under a custom “True Fonts” folder). hooping station for embroidery
- Consider disabling SewWhat-Pro’s startup tips if they distract you; you can always re-enable later.
Watch out
- Make sure you’re opening stitch files compatible with your machine (e.g., PES for many Brother models). If you pick the wrong format, the file won’t load as expected.
Prep checklist
- SewWhat-Pro launches without errors
- Your PES design and letter files are easy to find
- Startup tips preference set how you like (on or off)
Setup: Hoops, View, and Safe Resizing Rules Set the stage before editing:
- Open your base design: File > Open and choose your PES.
- Drag the design near the top-middle of the grid so you can visualize space for text underneath.
Safe resizing (the golden rule):
- Don’t drag the design’s corner boxes to resize; that risks distortion.
- Instead, use Tools > Resize Pattern and enter matching percentages for width and height (e.g., 50% to shrink, 150% to enlarge). Undo if the result doesn’t fit your plan.
Why this matters: Percentage-based resizing preserves aspect ratio and stitch relationships better than manual stretching.
Quick check
- The design is visible, positioned on the grid, and you understand where your text will go.
Setup checklist
- Hoop size and orientation in mind for later
- You know where to place text in relation to the design
- You know to resize via Tools > Resize Pattern, not drag handles
Operation: Edit Your Design Step by Step Step 1 — Load and position the base design
- Open your PES. Place the design near the top-middle to reserve space below for a name. This makes alignment easier later.
Expected result: The rainbow-and-clouds design sits on the grid with room underneath for text.
Step 2 — Resize with precision
- Use Tools > Resize Pattern.
- Example: Shrink to 50% (width and height) to see how it behaves. Undo. Then try 150% for a big view. Undo again to restore.
Watch out
- Typing different percentages for width vs. height will stretch the artwork—keep them identical unless you intend to skew.
Step 3 — Normalize applique colors for clarity Many applique sets ship with a designer’s default color logic (the rainbow example used red for placement and black for tack-down).
- Change placement/outline to a high-contrast color (the tutorial used Prussian Blue).
- Change tack-down to another contrasting neutral (the tutorial used Warm Gray).
- Apply these choices consistently across every applique segment so the color sequence on your machine screen is crystal clear.
Why it matters: High-contrast, consistent colors make it obvious when to place fabric, tack, and trim—especially on machines with color displays. brother embroidery machine
Pro tip
- Use colors that stand out on your machine’s monitor even if they don’t match final thread. Your on-screen plan is a roadmap; accuracy beats aesthetics at this stage.
Step 4 — Choose satin stitch colors for the arcs (and plan clouds)
- For the rainbow arcs, the tutorial demonstrates a simple primary scheme: red, yellow, blue.
- Keep clouds gray in software for visibility, but stitch them in white (the tutorial notes white glitter is a pretty choice in the final).
Decision point
- If you prefer primaries, stick with red/yellow/blue.
- If you want a softer palette, choose cohesive alternates (e.g., pinks/purples). Consistency in software helps you follow along later.
Step 5 — Confirm hoop size and orientation - Open Hoop Properties and confirm the hoop you’ll actually use. The tutorial references a 5x7-class hoop (5.12 x 7.09 in) and its rotated orientation (7.09 x 5.12 in).
Quick check
- Does the placed design (plus planned text) fit within the active hoop? If not, adjust placement or resize the elements.
Watch out
- Forgetting to confirm hoop orientation can cause elements to exceed boundaries. Re-verify fit after changing orientation.
Step 6 — Add a name (merge letters) The tutorial builds a name by merging individual letter PES files.
- File > Merge and navigate to your font folder (e.g., “True Fonts”).
- Insert letters one at a time (start with the uppercase initial if that’s your style). Place the first letter on a grid line to anchor alignment.
- Continue merging the remaining letters, placing them so cursive connections will meet cleanly.
From the comments
- A helpful suggestion: use the Lettering icon tab so the font’s letters appear in a right-side panel; this can reduce repeated file browsing while you add characters.
- On BX fonts: the creator noted their machine doesn’t support BX; if yours doesn’t either, merging letters individually is the practical route.
Pro tip
- Use grid lines and zoom liberally while aligning cursive joins. It’s easier to nudge letters now than to fix gaps after stitching.
Step 7 — Resize the name so letters connect cleanly
- Select all letters of the name.
- Tools > Resize Pattern and enter a modest bump (the example uses 125%).
- Re-check each cursive join and micro-adjust placement if needed.
Quick check
- Are all cursive connections touching without overlap? If anything collides or floats, undo and nudge.
Step 8 — Increase satin density for a richer finish
- Select the name.
- Open the density controls (Stitch Density and Pull Compensation) and raise the density factor slightly (the example uses 1.30) for fuller coverage.
Why it matters: Slightly thicker satin stitches better conceal minor fabric show-through and add polish to letter edges. magnetic embroidery hoop
Watch out
- Too high a density can cause puckering or breakage. Start small, preview, and test on scrap if you’re unsure.
Operation checklist
- Base design placed high enough to leave text room
- Applique steps recolored consistently (e.g., Prussian Blue + Warm Gray)
- Rainbow arcs set to your chosen palette; clouds left gray for visibility
- Hoop size/orientation confirmed and design fits comfortably
- Name merged, aligned, and connected; resized for clean joins
- Satin density increased moderately (e.g., 1.30)
Quality Checks: What “Good” Looks Like at Each Milestone 1) Placement and fit
- The rainbow sits high; the name fits below without crossing hoop boundaries.
2) Applique color logic
- Placement and tack-down colors are consistent across steps so your machine’s screen sequence is easy to follow.
3) Cursive alignment
- Each letter connects without gaps or heavy overlaps. If letters collide, reduce size or shift slightly.
4) Satin density preview
- Letters appear fuller in preview. If it looks jam-packed, reduce the factor a bit.
Quick check
- Do a mental “stitch walk” through the color order: placement > tack > trim > satin. If anything seems out of sequence, re-check the color list.
Results & Handoff: Saving, Color Lists, and Next Steps
- Save your edited PES under a new filename so your original remains intact.
- Keep a simple notes file alongside your PES with three essentials: hoop size/orientation, placement/tack-down color choices, and final density factor.
- If you’re tempted to prepare elements in a non-embroidery app (like a cutting program), note the community reminder: Cricut software doesn’t transfer to embroidery machines as stitching. Use dedicated embroidery editors for stitch files. magnetic hoops for brother
Heading to the machine
- The recolored steps should make applique placement/tack-down obvious.
- Trim carefully after tack-downs; return the hoop and proceed to satin stitches.
- Because the clouds were gray in software for visibility, remember to thread white at the machine if you want white clouds. magnetic hoops for babylock embroidery machines
Pro tip
- If you often stitch on the same hoop size, save a “template” project with hoop properties pre-set and a sample baseline text layer you can swap out quickly. magnetic embroidery hoops
Troubleshooting & Recovery: Quick Fixes for Common Snags Symptom: The design looks stretched after resizing.
- Likely cause: Width and height percentages didn’t match.
- Fix: Undo, then use Tools > Resize Pattern with identical width/height values.
Symptom: Colors on the machine screen are hard to distinguish.
- Likely cause: Low-contrast placement/tack-down colors in your file.
- Fix: Reassign to high-contrast colors (e.g., dark blue for placement, warm gray for tack-down) and keep them consistent throughout.
Symptom: Letters don’t connect cleanly in cursive.
- Likely cause: The text is a bit small or letters are misaligned.
- Fix: Select all letters, resize by a modest amount (e.g., 125%), then micro-nudge. Use grid lines.
Symptom: Satin stitches look too thin.
- Likely cause: Density factor too low for your fabric or thread.
- Fix: Increase density slightly (e.g., 1.30). Test on scrap if uncertain. brother 5x7 magnetic hoop
Symptom: I want to add letters faster than merging files over and over.
- Community tip: Use the Lettering icon tab so the right panel displays the font’s character set and recent files—this can streamline letter selection.
Unanswered but commonly asked
- “Can I enlarge letters to 5 inches? Is the program expensive?” No definitive answer provided in the source materials. Try incremental resizing and verify fit in Hoop Properties; check the publisher’s site for pricing.
- “Can I create full fill areas for patches via Add Border?” The creator didn’t provide an answer in the source thread.
From the comments: Helpful clarifications and pro tips
- Startup tips: Yes, you can turn them off if they get in the way.
- Platform choice: Embrilliance runs on Windows too; pick what fits your workflow best.
- Cricut vs. embroidery: Cutting software doesn’t produce stitch files for embroidery machines—stick with dedicated embroidery editors.
- BX fonts: If your machine or workflow doesn’t support them, merging letters one-by-one is a reliable alternative. magnetic hoops for embroidery
Final thoughts With a few disciplined habits—precise resizing, consistent color logic, careful text alignment, and a modest density boost—you’ll produce cleaner, easier-to-stitch files. This workflow favors clarity and control so you spend less time redoing and more time stitching a finish you’re proud of.
