PE-Design Tutorial: From Line Art to an Elegant ‘JOY’ Wreath (No Jump Stitches)

Video reference: “Convert Line Art to Machine Embroidery: Brother PE Design Software Tutorial” by Gentleman Crafter

Turn one graceful line element into a finished ‘JOY’ wreath that stitches cleanly and looks polished on fabric. This guide distills a full, start-to-finish PE-Design workflow—breaking apart styling, re-branching for efficient stitching, adding a tatami fill with a radial effect, arranging a circle layout, dropping in lettering, and exporting to PES for a smooth stitch-out.

What you’ll learn

• How to extract and reuse a design element without bringing along unwanted styling

• When and why to use Branching to eliminate jump stitches

• How to digitize a closed shape, apply Tatami, and add a Radial Fill effect without a hole

• How to create a balanced circular wreath layout and add centered lettering with an outline

• How to align and export to a PES file for a confident stitch-out

Primer: What this workflow does—and when to use it This workflow shows how to repurpose a single decorative element from one design and transform it into a complete, stitch-ready ‘JOY’ wreath. It’s ideal when you have a motif you love and want to build a fresh layout around it—without redrawing from scratch. You’ll learn to strip away styling, rebuild stitch order, add structured fills, and leverage layout tools so the embroidery machine sews it cleanly and efficiently.

Why this matters: embroidery machines prefer neat, continuous stitch paths. Branching and a clean sequence help you avoid random jump stitches, saves trimming later, and yields a more professional finish. If you export as PES, you’re set for a brother embroidery machine—the file format used in this workflow.

Quick check

• You can isolate a single element from an existing file

• You can identify and remove redwork styling and branched grouping

• You can visualize the motif repeated around a circle

Prep: Files, tools, and a clean workspace You’ll need a computer running Brother PE-Design software and access to a project containing the source motif (e.g., the earlier “Bless This House” design). Gather your hoop and thread for the stitch-out; the sample uses variegated thread for visual interest.

Tools and materials

• Brother PE-Design software

• Existing embroidery design file containing the element to reuse

• Embroidery machine and hoop for final stitch-out

• Fabric and thread (variegated thread adds texture and color shifts)

Constraints to note

• Exact sizes and offsets are chosen visually in this workflow; trust your eye, then validate in Stitch Player.

• Fills introduce pull; we’ll counter that by duplicating an outline as a stabilizing run.

Decision point: hooping approach

• If you use a standard clamp or screw hoop, proceed as usual.

• If you prefer magnetic hooping, ensure compatibility before stitch-out. For example, makers often ask about magnetic embroidery hoops—use only frames that fit your machine and hoop size.

Prep checklist

• PE-Design installed and opening your source design

• Destination document ready to receive the copied element

• Machine and hoop available for a quick test stitch if desired

Setup: Smart settings that save you time later Before you draw new shapes or re-order anything, set a few parameters that influence how the result will stitch.

• Break Apart and Branching are your control handles for stitch order. We’ll use them twice: first to remove unwanted styling and groupings, then again after building the wreath to eliminate jump stitches between repetitions.

• For the fill pass, switch to Tatami (Stitch pattern 1) and plan on adding a Radial Fill effect. You’ll also move the radial “hole” outside the shape so you get directional texture without an actual donut.

Watch out

• Radial Fill defaults to a hole at its center. Don’t forget to reposition that center outside the shape or you’ll get a visible gap.

Setup checklist

• Break Apart and Branching located in the Edit Objects toolbox

• Tatami fill (pattern 1) selected for closed shapes you digitize

• Effects tab open and ready for Radial Fill

Operation: The full build—from element to ‘JOY’ wreath 1) Copy and isolate the element

• In your source design, select the decorative element.

- Copy, create a new document, and paste. You now have the element isolated and ready to edit.

Pro tip - Keep your original file open separately. It’s a handy visual reference while you modify the copy.

2) Break Apart—twice

• Use Edit Objects > Break Apart once to remove redwork styling.

• Use it again to ungroup the branched object into individual pieces.

- Confirm you see multiple sub-elements in the sequence manager.

Quick check

• The element is now composed of individual components you can delete or reshape at will.

3) Remove what you don’t need - Select and delete unwanted pieces, leaving only the motif you plan to fill and repeat. Undo if you remove anything essential.

4) Re-branch for a clean path

• Select the remaining pieces and apply Branching.

• Press Enter twice to set entry/exit points.

- Use Stitch Player to confirm the stitching starts on the spiral, travels cleanly, and minimizes tracking.

Pro tip

• If the path isn’t ideal, adjust entry/exit points and apply Branching again. You’re aiming for the least possible backtracking and no unnecessary jumps.

5) Create a closed fill shape with Tatami

• Lock the branched outline to avoid moving it.

• Digitize Closed Shape; set stitch type to Tatami, pick a contrasting color (helps you see layers), and use left-click for straight points, right-click for curves.

• Keep your clicks roughly centered within the outline path; backspace to remove errant points, then continue.

- Press Enter twice to confirm the closed shape.

Watch out

• Dense fills cause pull. We’ll mitigate shortly by duplicating an outline and sewing it first to “lock” the fabric.

6) Add direction with Radial Fill (without the hole)

• Adjust nodes for a smooth contour.

• In Effects, select Radial Fill.

- Enter Reshape and drag the radial center outside the object boundary. This preserves the directional texture but eliminates the center hole.

Quick check

• Your fill shows a radial stitch pattern, but there’s no open center.

7) Duplicate an outline to stabilize (pull compensation)

• Duplicate the outline (Ctrl+D) and convert it to an outline run that will sew before the fill.

• Move it to the top of the sequence so it stitches first.

• Unlock, select all parts (outline(s) + fill), and group. This makes the element easy to move and rotate as a single unit.

Pro tip

• This “pre-run” outline helps lock the fabric fibers before the Tatami fill packs stitches in, reducing distortion.

8) Arrange a circular wreath with Circle Layout

• Position the grouped element near the hoop edge; rotate approximately 45 degrees to set a pleasant angle.

• Use Create Layouts > Circle Layout. Drag the layout’s starting point to the hoop center; single-click to generate the repetitions.

- Select all and resize to taste if needed.

Decision point: spacing and overlap

• If shapes overlap or look crowded, adjust the circle center or reduce the element size slightly.

• If the ring feels sparse, scale up the element or reduce the circle radius.

9) Optimize the wreath’s stitch order

• Ungroup the wreath.

• Move all fills to the bottom of the sequence so outlines stitch logically.

• Select the outlines and apply Branching; press Enter twice to set the path.

- Review in Stitch Player to confirm jump stitches are gone or minimized.

Quick check

• The software should now run outlines and fills in an efficient sequence without random tag or jump stitches between repeated shapes.

10) Add center lettering with style - Insert lettering; type “JOY.” Apply a lettering art style (arch up) that complements the circular motif.

Watch out

• If the text feels off-center or distorted against the wreath, adjust the lettering art or resize the text so its curve and spacing feel balanced.

11) Align everything perfectly

• Group the lettering with the wreath.

• Align Centers to unify the composition.

- Enable automatic hoop centering so the design lands in the hoop center.

12) Outline the lettering for clarity

• Create Outlines and Offsets for the text with a Triple Run. Choose a color that contrasts well with your fill and outlines.

• Confirm the outline complements the type style without overpowering it.

Operation checklist

• Element isolated, cleaned, and re-branched

• Closed Tatami fill created; Radial Fill applied with center moved outside

• Duplicate outline added to stabilize before fill

• Circle Layout applied; spacing and size refined

• Branching re-applied to the wreath outlines; Stitch Player validated

• “JOY” lettering added, outlined, centered with the wreath

Quality checks: Validate before you stitch

• Stitch sequence: In Stitch Player, confirm that outlines and fills flow without stray jumps.

• Layer order: The stabilizing outline should precede the Tatami fill.

• Registration: Ensure lettering sits cleanly within the wreath and its Triple Run outline doesn’t collide with surrounding shapes.

• Visual density: Look for uniform coverage in the fill; no bald spots or excessive overlap.

Quick check

• If anything looks off—e.g., sudden jumps between flower arms—revisit Branching on the outlines and re-check entry/exit points.

Results & handoff: Export and stitch-out

• Save your working file.

• Export to PES for use on compatible machines.

- Hoop fabric, thread your machine, and stitch out the design. The sample used a variegated thread to add lively transitions in color.

Pro tip

• If you prefer certain hoop formats or accessories, verify compatibility first. Many readers work with a brother magnetic embroidery hoop; others stick with a standard frame. Either way, center the design in-software and in-hoop.

From screen to machine

• This PES export is designed for a clean sew-out with optimized paths. If your machine supports it, you can preview on-screen before committing to fabric. For users working in smaller fields—say a brother 4x4 embroidery hoop—consider scaling the layout or reducing the number of repetitions while preserving spacing.

Troubleshooting & recovery: Fix it fast Symptom: Random jump stitches appear between repeated elements

• Likely cause: Outlines weren’t re-branched after Circle Layout.

• Fix: Ungroup, select outline objects, apply Branching, confirm entry/exit points, and re-test in Stitch Player.

Symptom: The fill pulls and distorts the shape

• Likely cause: No stabilizing run before the Tatami fill.

• Fix: Duplicate the outline as a light run and place it before the fill. Re-stitch the sample.

Symptom: Visible hole in the center of the radial fill

• Likely cause: Radial center wasn’t moved outside the shape.

• Fix: Reshape the fill; drag the radial center out of bounds to retain direction without the donut hole.

Symptom: Lettering looks misaligned or crowded

• Likely cause: Lettering art curvature or size doesn’t complement the wreath diameter.

• Fix: Resize the text or choose a different lettering art; re-align centers.

Symptom: Design stitches off-center in the hoop

• Likely cause: Automatic centering not enabled.

• Fix: Turn on automatic centering in hoop settings and confirm Align Centers on the composition.

Quick isolating test

• Hide fills and play outlines only. If that path is clean, re-enable fills and check transitions again. This narrows the source of any jump.

From the comments

• A viewer praised the design and color choice, calling out the finished result and demonstration as “fabulous.” If you enjoy texture shifts, try a tasteful variegated thread for the wreath or lettering—subtle changes can make the radial fill shimmer.

Extras: Optional gear talk (choose what fits your setup)

• Some embroiderers prefer magnetic frames when hooping; if that’s you, ensure your frame fits your machine model and field size. Examples people often mention include a dime snap hoop or general hooping station for embroidery accessories to speed alignment.

• If you’re exploring machines and wondering about the best embroidery machine for beginners, focus on software compatibility and supported file types first—the PES export used here is widely supported in the Brother ecosystem.

Note

• Use what your machine supports and what keeps fabric stable for fills. Whether standard screw hoops, snap frames, or brother magnetic embroidery hoop styles, your goal is consistent tension and precise centering.