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Watch the video: SITTING SHELF BUNNY machine embroidery tutorial by (channel not specified)
Meet your new favorite home decor plush: a sitting shelf bunny that’s sturdy on the bottom, soft on top, and irresistibly cute. This project walks you from hoop to huggable, using clean machine embroidery steps and simple hand finishing. If you’ve been itching for an in-the-hoop style make that looks store-bought, this one’s a win.
What you’ll learn
- How to embroider and assemble the arms, ears, and legs cleanly
- How to embroider both sides of the body, align the face, and tack the ears
- How to attach the round base with legs and get the orientation right
- How to weight the bunny with sand and finish with toy filling for shape
- Hand-stitching techniques for neat, durable closures
Introduction to Your Machine Embroidered Shelf Bunny You’ll create a compact plush designed to sit prettily on shelves thanks to a weighted base. The video uses on-screen text and close-ups to guide every step—from fabric placement and stabilizer choices to turning, stuffing, and final stitching.
Materials & Tools Needed
- Fabric (non-stretch woven shown) and matching thread
- Tear-away stabilizer; optional wash-away stabilizer for face details
- Embroidery machine and hoop; scissors or pinking shears
- Tape (including double-adhesive tape), sewing clips, and needle
- Hemostats or a turning tool; optional chopstick
- Toy filling, plastic bag, and sand for weighting
- Craft wire for posable ears (and optional for arms)
Pro tip If you’re working on a domestic setup, a well-fitting hoop and stable support will make your stitches sing. Some makers prefer magnetic embroidery hoop for quick fabric handling—just ensure your stabilizer is properly supported and flat.
Step-by-Step Embroidery: Arms, Ears, and Legs
Crafting the Arms with Precision Start with the arms. Hoop your stabilizer and stitch the arm placement line. Place two fabric layers, pretty sides together, evenly covering the outline. Stitch the closing stitch for the arms. Check that your fabric fully covers the placement line before running the seam to avoid edge misses.
Watch out When trimming arms later, don’t clip into the seam—stay close but safe to preserve strength.
Adding Posable Charm to the Ears Hoop, stitch the ear placement, then cover with two fabric layers, right sides facing. Stitch the closing stitch, remove from the hoop, trim around the seam, and turn right side out. Insert a piece of craft fluffy wire into each ear to make them posable. Hemostats shine here, especially for slim shapes, helping you turn and guide wire without snagging fabric.
Quick check Are both ears turned smoothly, with no puckers at the tip? If turning is tight, nibble tiny relief clips around curves—but never into the seam.
Embroidering and Finishing the Legs Hoop, stitch the leg placement, then place two fabric layers right sides facing in and sew the closing stitch. Remove the piece, trim carefully (pinking shears help resist fray), remove stabilizer, and turn right side out. Use clips to hold openings neatly for later steps. Avoid trimming too close to stitches—small, even margins keep curves smooth after turning.
From the comments There were no public comments available for this video at the time of capture. If you try this tutorial, note anything that tripped you up (like turning tight curves or aligning the base) so others can learn from your experience.
Embroidering the Bunny Body (Two Sides)
Creating the First Body Side with Face Details Hoop stabilizer and stitch the placement line for the body. Place your fabric right side up, stitch the tack-down, and (optionally) add wash-away stabilizer before embroidering the face details. This extra layer helps prevent stitches from sinking on textured or plushy fabrics, keeping the face crisp and clean. Remove from the hoop when done.
Watch out Loose fabric can ripple under dense face stitches. Lightly secure the fabric edges with tape beyond the sew line so it doesn’t catch the needle.
Attaching Ears and Completing the Second Body Side Hoop stabilizer and stitch the placement line for the second body piece. Place fabric overlapping the line and run the tack-down, then remove the top stabilizer. Fold and tape the wired ears to overlap the marking line; stitch the tack-down for the ears to lock them in. Confirm the ear tips sit evenly so they’ll frame the face symmetrically.
Joining the Body Halves and Final Stitching Bring the face side over the second side, aligning the nose embroidery perfectly. A small strip of double-adhesive tape makes this alignment precise. Stitch the nose closing seam, then secure all the layers—front, back, and ears—and run the final closing stitch for the body. For control, slow your machine to minimum speed and raise foot height up to about 4 mm; this combo reduces drag and preserves your seam accuracy through thickness.
Pro tip Use a chopstick to gently guide fabric and hold layers flat as the foot passes—think of it as your third hand to tame bulky zones without getting fingers too close.
The Bunny Base and Final Assembly
Embroidering the Body Base and Attaching Legs Hoop stabilizer and stitch the base placement circle. Respect the fabric texture direction when you place the fabric right side up and run the tack-down. Trim excess around the circle for clean edges. Tape the prepared legs to overlap the marked line and sew the tack-down to secure them. This positions the legs ready for assembly later.
Preparing and Assembling the Body for Stuffing Trim around the main body using pinking shears and remove all tear-away stabilizer. Mark key alignment points to match the body to the base later; this is crucial for getting the legs to face the bunny’s nose. Align the base with the main body, check that your markings correspond, and clip all around. Stitch the bottom circle to unite the base with the body.
Quick check Before you stitch the base on, turn the project so the face is up and confirm: are the legs pointing toward the nose? Realigning now is far easier than unpicking later.
The Art of Turning and Finishing Trim any excess fabric from the bottom seam if needed, then turn the bunny right side out through the opening. Use hemostats for curves and to nudge out gentle contours. Press the nose stitch open so the face sits smoothly—this little detail elevates the finish noticeably.
Stuffing and Final Touches
Stuffing the Arms and Creating Posable Features Clip tiny notches around curved arm edges (without hitting the seam) to help them turn smoothly. Use surgical hemostats to turn the arms right side out, then fill with toy stuffing in small bits for even density. If you’d like posable arms, insert craft wire alongside the filling, making sure ends are smooth or turned to avoid snags.
Watch out Overfilling small parts makes hand stitching harder. Aim for firm but flexible.
Weighting and Filling the Bunny Body Drop a plastic bag into the bunny’s body cavity and add sand until you reach a satisfying weight for shelf sitting. Tie the bag securely and trim extra plastic. Then fill the remaining space with toy filling, working evenly from the base up through the body and head so the shape looks balanced and cohesive.
Pro tip Use hemostats or a chopstick to place small tufts of filling where bulk is hard to reach—like the cheeks or shoulder area under the ears. This prevents lumps and keeps the silhouette clean.
Hand Stitching for a Perfect Finish Evenly fill the lower legs and hand-stitch their openings for a neat, invisible finish—ladder stitch works well. Finally, hand-stitch the arms in place. Keep your stitches small and consistent, tucking raw edges slightly inward before closing so everything reads crisp and tidy.
Troubleshooting and Safety Notes
- Fabric shifting at the nose alignment: Add a tiny piece of double-adhesive tape and reduce speed so the layers don’t slide.
- Thick layers causing needle stress: Lower speed to minimum and set foot height up to about 4 mm for control.
- Turning tight corners cleanly: Trim seam allowances evenly and use hemostats to gently nudge fabric outward.
- Stabilizer residue: Carefully remove wash-away or tear-away per the product’s instructions to keep the face details clear.
Watch out Sand leakage can happen if the bag isn’t tied well. Use a strong plastic bag, double tie, and nestle the knot deep in the belly.
Quick check Before calling it finished, set your bunny on a flat surface. If it leans, shift or add a touch of sand or redistribute stuffing until the posture reads upright and charming.
FAQ Q: What type of fabric is best for this bunny project? A: The video demonstrates a printed cotton; any non-stretch woven like quilting cotton or linen works well.
Q: Is wash-away stabilizer necessary for the face details? A: It’s optional but can yield cleaner, crisper face embroidery by preventing stitches from sinking.
Q: How can I make the bunny’s arms and ears posable? A: Insert craft fluffy wire into each ear. For arms, you can add craft wire alongside stuffing before closing.
Q: What can I use to weight the bunny if I don’t have sand? A: Other granular options like rice or pellets can work if bagged securely; the video shows sand.
Q: What machine settings help with the final body stitching? A: Slow the embroidery machine to minimum and raise foot height up to about 4 mm to manage multiple layers.
Finishing Touches and Display Ideas Perch your bunny on a bookshelf, mantel, or nursery ledge—its weighted base keeps it steady while the posable ears add personality. Try a seasonal rotation of fabrics: spring florals, winter plaids, or bold geometrics. Consider a coordinating bow or mini scarf for festive flair.
From our studio shelves If you’re exploring add-ons, a well-fitting hoop is your secret weapon for consistent placement. Many stitchers experiment with machine embroidery hoops to improve stability, especially when tackling small curved pieces like arms and ears.
Setup tips for smoother stitching
- Pre-check thread tension and hooping snugness before face details.
- Keep scissors, hemostats, and clips within reach for quick handling.
- Test a short seam on scrap to make sure your stabilizer choice matches the fabric.
Gear talk While the video doesn’t specify machines or accessories, makers often compare options like embroidery sewing machine models or even upgrade supports such as magnetic hoops for embroidery machines for easier re-hooping and fabric handling. Choose what fits your budget and project scale.
Beyond the bunny: project variations Swap fabrics to create families of bunnies with different textures: crisp linen, chambray, or quilting cotton. Embroider a simple monogram on the back panel. Adjust the sand amount for more or less stability. Keep the core method—clean alignment, sturdy base, and thoughtful stuffing—consistent for reliable results.
Storage and care Spot clean gently. Because the base is weighted with sand contained in a plastic bag, avoid immersion in water. If it becomes misshapen, redistribute the filling by hand and lightly steam the fabric (when appropriate) without saturating it.
Sourcing essentials Good stabilizer and sharp shears make a difference. If you’re deciding on hooping tools, some crafters like the quick clamp of snap hoop monster. Others prefer classic tension hoops. There’s no single right way—choose what helps you place fabric precisely and stitch stress-free.
Your Adorable Sitting Shelf Bunny is Complete! With clean embroidery, aligned face details, a firm weighted base, and soft, even stuffing, your bunny is built to charm from any shelf. Take a final look at posture and symmetry, then style it in your space. If you’re building a gift set, make a pair with complementary prints. And when you’re ready to refine your setup further, explore accessories like a durable embroidery frame or a strong mighty hoop to match your workflow.
Bonus tip for new stitchers If you’re just getting started and want an approachable project, this tutorial is friendly and visual. Pair it with a well-reviewed embroidery machine for beginners and take your time—accuracy beats speed every time.