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Watch the video: “How to Finish an Embroidery Hoop” by an embroidery creator
A neat back is the difference between “cute craft” and “finished piece.” This tutorial shows two clean, beginner-friendly ways to secure the back of an embroidery hoop—no special gadgets required. We’ll follow the exact steps demonstrated: a classic running stitch gather and a quick, durable hot glue method the teacher prefers.
What you’ll learn
- How to center your design before any irreversible trimming
- The running stitch method: trim, stitch, pull, and tie off
- The hot glue method: separate layers, trim only the backing, and fold the main fabric in with glue
- Safety and neatness tips for glue strings and stitch sizing
- Simple display options when you don’t want the metal clasp showing
Introduction to Finishing Embroidery Hoops Why a Clean Finish Matters If you’ve ever turned a hoop over and winced at the frayed edges, this process is for you. Finishing the back protects threads from catching and makes your work look polished whether it’s gifted, sold, or hung at home. A tidy back also keeps the front taut, which helps it present crisply on the wall.
Two Methods Explored This tutorial demonstrates two approaches:
- Method 1: A running stitch around both layers of fabric on the back. Pull to gather and tie off.
- Method 2: A hot glue method that secures the main fabric to the inner hoop. The teacher prefers this for long-term hold.
Both begin the same way: center the design before trimming anything. Once fabric is cut, you have very little room to adjust.
Method 1: The Running Stitch Technique Preparing Your Fabric Layers Start with your finished embroidery in the hoop. Place a backing fabric behind the embroidery, then re-insert both layers into the hoop. Tighten to secure. Before trimming, flip to the front and verify the design is centered exactly how you want it—this is the moment to adjust.
Pro tip If the hoop feels “way too tight” while you’re adjusting, loosen it slightly so the fabric can shift. Once it’s centered, retighten.
With the backing fabric positioned and the hoop secure, the layers are sandwiched and ready. Carefully fit the outer ring over both layers to lock them in.
Quick check Hold the hoop up and view your design straight-on. If the design isn’t centered now, fix it before trimming.
Trimming and Stitching the Back Using scissors, trim both layers around the hoop, leaving roughly half an inch. The creator calls out this allowance explicitly, and shows cutting both layers for this method.
Watch out Once trimmed, you have limited fabric to work with. Keep that half-inch margin consistent and be careful not to cut into the stitched design.
Thread a needle with embroidery thread, knot the end, and sew a running stitch through both fabric layers around the entire circumference. The teacher notes that very tiny stitches make it hard to gather, so use modest, evenly spaced stitches that pull smoothly.
As you continue, keep the stitch path a steady distance from the edge so the gather tightens evenly. This step doesn’t have to look pretty—it’s functional—but a consistent rhythm helps.
Once you’ve stitched all the way around, pull the thread to gather the fabric snugly toward the center. Tie the two thread tails securely. The teacher mentions this method can loosen over time compared to hot glue, but it’s a great option if you don’t have glue on hand.
From the comments Some makers prefer simple tools over adhesives for finishing backs. Others like the faster hold of glue. If you’re undecided, try this method once—you’ll get a feel for how tightly it gathers and how tidy it looks on your materials.
Method 2: The Hot Glue Method (Preferred) Separating and Trimming Backing Fabric For the glue method, there’s a key difference: separate the inner backing fabric from the outer (embroidered) fabric. Trim only the inner backing layer down to the hoop edge. The teacher clarifies this while demonstrating—avoid cutting the main embroidered fabric at this stage.
Watch out If your scissors are extremely sharp, it’s easier to accidentally catch the outer fabric. Keep layers clearly separated as you trim the backing close to the wooden ring.
Securing Fabric with Hot Glue Apply a line of hot glue to the inner portion of the hoop’s wooden ring, then fold the main fabric allowance down onto the glue. Work in sections around the hoop, pressing each fold into place for a smooth inner edge.
Pro tip Press the fabric firmly as you go so it fully adheres. If a small section looks loose or pops up, add a touch more glue and fold it onto itself for a secure hold.
Safety note Hot glue can cause burns. Consider using a silicone tool or protective covers to press the fabric in place instead of bare fingers.
Quick check When you’re done, pull away any stringy glue webs and scan for areas that need a tiny reinforcement. If the outer ring looks crooked relative to the design, the instructor notes you can remove and reposition that outer ring without affecting the glued fabric on the inner hoop.
Tips for a Perfect Finish Centering is Key
- Always center first, trim second. The teacher repeats this because once you trim, there’s little room to fix a skewed design.
- Look at the front of the hoop under good light. Rotate the hoop if needed so the design is upright and balanced before you cut.
- Keep the hoop snug but not so tight you can’t shift the fabric. Tighten fully only when you’re sure it’s centered.
Dealing with Excess Glue/Strings
- If you see fine glue threads after the adhesive cools, gently pull them away. A cool, dry fingertip works well.
- Small, neat sections are easier to manage than one long ring of glue. Apply and fold in a few inches at a time.
- If a fold looks bulky, lift it gently while the glue is still slightly warm, smooth it, and re-press.
From the comments
- Fabric choices: One commenter noted the blue backing is cotton and the front beige fabric is cotton canvas in the demonstration piece.
- Heat caution: Another commenter recommended silicone fingertip covers when using hot glue to prevent burns.
Troubleshooting
- Running stitch won’t gather: If stitches are too tiny, they can bind. Restitch with slightly larger increments so the thread slides and gathers easily.
- Accidentally trimmed too short: There’s not a simple fix. If there’s insufficient allowance to gather or fold, you may need to reinforce with a new backing or restart the finish.
- Loose glue spots: Add a small dab and press firmly. Work in small arcs to keep control.
Small-Tools Corner If you also do machine embroidery, you might finish hooped projects differently. Some makers prefer hardware that speeds hooping and re-hooping, but that’s outside the scope of this hand-finish tutorial. Still, it’s helpful to know what’s out there if you switch between hand and machine work. For instance, some crafters talk about magnetic embroidery hoop systems that hold fabric securely while stitching.
Materials and Tools Recap
- Tools shown: needle, scissors, hot glue gun, embroidery hoop
- Materials shown: embroidery thread, fabric, hot glue stick
- Safety notes: Don’t cut into your stitched area; hot glue is hot—use care
Displaying Your Finished Embroidery Framing Options You have choices beyond the standard hoop clasp at the top. The instructor mentions that after gluing the fabric to the inner ring, you can remove the outer ring for a cleaner look. Commenters also point to specialty frames made for embroidery available online if you’d rather not display the metal clasp.
Care and Maintenance
- Dust lightly with a soft brush. Avoid moisture on the back, especially near glue.
- If a glued fold loosens months later, add a tiny bit of hot glue and re-press.
- For running-stitch finishes that slacken over time, re-tie or add a few reinforcing stitches if necessary.
Method-by-Method Snapshot Running Stitch
- Best for: No-glue households and those who prefer stitch-only finishes
- Steps: Trim both layers to about a half-inch, sew a running stitch around, pull, and tie off
- Look: Slightly gathered back with a soft, hand-finished feel
Hot Glue (Preferred)
- Best for: Quick, firm, and tidy finishes
- Steps: Trim only the backing layer close to the hoop; glue and fold the main fabric to the inner hoop
- Look: Crisp inner edge; easy outer-ring adjustment after gluing
Expert Notes on Layer Trimming The teacher clarifies a point mid-tutorial: for the running-stitch method, both layers are trimmed to the allowance. For the hot glue method, only the inner backing fabric is cut close to the hoop first; the main embroidered fabric remains as the fold-over allowance.
Safety First
- Cutting: Keep scissors angled away from the stitched motif and fingers.
- Gluing: Work in small sections and consider a pressing tool or protective fingertip covers.
- Workspace: Use a clean, flat surface with good light. Let glue cool fully before removing strings.
From the comments: Display Solutions A viewer asked how to display hoops without the clasp showing. The creator replied: once the fabric is secured to the inner ring, you can remove the outer ring entirely to display it. Alternatively, look for purpose-made embroidery frames online.
Beyond Hand-Finishing: Machine Embroidery Side Notes If you mix hand and machine embroidery, you might be familiar with accessories discussed in maker communities. Some love the fast setup of snap hoop monster, while others rely on mighty hoop fixtures or various magnetic embroidery hoops to stabilize fabric during stitching. These tools are for machine stitching rather than finishing the back by hand, but they can influence how your project is hooped from the start.
Similarly, advanced setups for machine work include magnetic frames for embroidery machine solutions and station-style positioning aids sometimes called a hoop master by sewists. If you’re in the UK, you may see discussions about availability of magnetic embroidery hoops uk in local shops. Again, these are side paths; our article stays focused on the clean hand-finish shown in the video.
Conclusion A beautiful finish is straightforward when you follow the video’s core sequence: center first, then trim, then secure. Choose the running stitch if you want a stitch-only solution, or the hot glue method if you prefer a quick, durable fold-and-press finish. Double-check alignment, take your time with edges, and remember that small, careful steps add up to a professional back and a picture-perfect front.
With these two methods in your toolkit, your hoop backs will look as polished as your stitches on the front.