Fall 2025 at Westside Sewing: The Classes That Actually Make Your Sewing & Embroidery Machines Feel “Easy” Again

If you have ever walked out of a class schedule announcement thinking, “Okay… but which of these will actually fix my specific problems?”, you are not alone.

As someone who has spent two years teaching machine embroidery, I see the same pattern every season: enthusiasm followed by "cognitive overload." Shelley at Westside Sewing introduces the Fall 2025 lineup by doing what good shop owners do: she shows real samples and points you toward classes that remove fear—especially around stabilizers, thread, and software.

However, to turn a class schedule into actual results, you need more than a list of dates. You need an Execution Strategy.

This post transforms that overview into a "White Paper" style guide for embroidery success. I will keep every fact faithful to Shelley’s presentation, but I will overlay the "Chief Education Officer" perspective: Physics, Prep, and Prevention. We will cover how to prep like a pro, how to avoid the "hooping" traps that ruin garments, and when it is time to stop blaming your skills and start upgrading your tools.

The Strategic Roadmap: Stop Treating Classes Like a To-Do List

Shelley opens by noting that not every sample is finished yet (the BQ2 is coming). This is a vital lesson in Iterative Progress. You do not need a perfect setup to start; you need a logical sequence.

Novices often jump straight to "Software" because it feels like magic. That is a mistake. Software magnifies bad physics. Here is the Skill Acquisition Sequence I recommend for owners of a sewing and embroidery machine to minimize material waste and maximize confidence:

1. Physics & Positioning (The Foundation): If you can't hoop it straight, the best design in the world won't save you.
2. Forgiving Projects (Embroidery 101): High-margin for error projects like simple applique on stable cotton.
3. The "System" (Stabilizer + Thread): Understanding that "puckering" is usually a stabilizer failure, not a machine failure.
4. Software & Digitizing: Only enter this phase once you understand how stitches pull and push fabric in the real world.
   

The Park Sling Bag: Material Stacking & The "Not Both" Rule

Shelley introduces the Park Sling Bag, noting there is a Large version (two zipper pockets, ample storage) and a Small version. The critical constraint? You can make either one, but not both in class.

This "Not Both" rule is where beginners stumble. They suffer from decision fatigue.

The Engineering Reality of Bag Making

Bags are what we call a "Stacked Material Challenge." You are not just sewing cotton; you are sewing a sandwich of:

• Outer Fabric (Fashion layer)
• Fusible Fleece or Foam (Structure layer)
• Lining (Inner layer)
• Zipper Tape (Rigid layer)

When you embroider on a bag panel, this stack changes the tension physics.

Pre-Flight Check: The Hidden Prep

Before you arrive, optimize for your lifestyle:

• Production/Travel: Choose Large.
• Speed/Confidence: Choose Small.

Warning: The "Red Zone" Safety Protocol
When working with zippers and thick bag stacks, slow your machine down.
* Visual Check: Watch the needle deflection. If the needle bends even slightly when hitting a thick seam, stop immediately.
* Physical Risk: Hitting a zipper foot with a needle at 800 SPM (Stitches Per Minute) can shatter the needle, sending metal shards toward your eyes. Always wear glasses and hand-crank over zipper teeth.

Prep Checklist: The "Zero Friction" Bag Kit

• Pattern Pre-Cut: All pieces labeled with painter's tape (e.g., "Front Panel," "Strap").
• Embroidery Zone Marked: Use a water-soluble pen or chalk to mark the center of where the design goes.
• Zipper Prep: Iron the zipper tape flat (low heat!) so it doesn't ripple under the foot.
• Hardware Check: Ensure D-rings and sliders match the strap width exactly (e.g., 1-inch hardware for 1-inch webbing).
  

Positioning & Stitch-Outs: The Cure for "Hoop Burn" and crooked Logos

Shelley highlights free classes on Design Positioning and Embroidery Stitch Out. If you are a machine owner, skipping these is leaving money on the table.

The "Hoop Burn" Pain Point: We have all been there. You wrestle a delicate velvet or performance knit into a standard plastic hoop. You screw it tight (like a drum). You stitch it perfectly. You unhoop it... and there is a permanent "ring" crushed into the fabric fibers. This is called Hoop Burn.

• The Traditional Fix: Steam and pray.
• The Systematic Fix: Learn "Floating" (hooping the stabilizer only and spraying adhesive) or upgrade your toolset.

Terms like magnetic embroidery hoop are your gateway to understanding how to hold fabric without crushing it. Magnetic frames clamp down with vertical force rather than friction, eliminating the "tug of war" that causes burn marks.

What "Design Positioning" Actually Solves

It fixes the Visual Center vs. Mathematical Center problem.

• Scenario: You center a logo on a shirt pocket.
• The Fail: Gravity pulls the shirt down when worn, making the logo look too low.
• The Fix: Positioning classes teach you to place designs slightly higher than center to account for body drape.

If you are using a brother embroidery machine, utilizing the built-in camera or projector features during these classes is non-negotiable.

Operation Checklist: The "Stitch-Out" Safety Protocol

• The 1/3 Rule: Check your bobbin case. The white bobbin thread should show about 1/3 width in the center of a satin column on the back of the design.
• The Sound Check: Listen for a rhythmic "thump-thump." A sharp "clack" usually means the needle is hitting the plate or the thread has jumped out of the take-up lever.
• The "Hoop Check": Before hitting start, ensure the hoop is fully clicked in. Give it a gentle wiggle. If it moves, it's not locked.
• Vector Clearance: Use the "Trace" button to ensure the needle won't hit the plastic hoop frame.
  

The Poinsettia Table Runner: The Science of Stabilization

Shelley mentions the Poinsettia Table Runner, noting its "movement and color." In the world of embroidery physics, "movement" without "distortion" is the holy grail.

If a design has 20,000+ stitches, it will generate immense pull compensation forces. It literally tries to shrink the fabric. If your stabilizer is too weak, the fabric puckers (the "bacon effect").

Decision Tree: The "Fabric-First" Stabilizer Logic

Stop guessing. Use this logic flow to choose the right backing.

• Scenario A: The fabric stretches (T-shirts, Knits, Spandex)
  • Physics: The fabric cannot support the stitch weight.
  • Symptom: Tunneling or holes around the edges.
  • Rx: Cut-away Stabilizer (Mesh or Heavy). Never use tear-away on knits.
  • Pro Tip: Use a fusible mesh to "lock" the knit fibers before hooping.
• Scenario B: The fabric is textured (Terry Cloth, Fleece, Velvet)
  • Physics: Stitches sink into the pile (the "disappearing stitch").
  • Symptom: Ragged edges or invisible text.
  • Rx: solvy Topper (Water Soluble) on top + Tear-away/Cut-away on bottom. The topper acts as a platform for the thread.
• Scenario C: The fabric is stable (Quilting Cotton, Denim, Canvas)
  • Physics: The fabric is stronger than the stitch force.
  • Rx: Tear-away Stabilizer is usually sufficient.

If you are shopping for the best embroidery machine for beginners, realize that even a $10,000 machine will produce puckered garbage if you use Tear-away on a T-shirt. Stabilizer knowledge is the real upgrade.

Embroidery 101: Lace & Felting (Tactile Learning)

Shelley points to a lace bookmark and embroidery felting. These are masterclasses in Tension Control.

Freestanding Lace (FSL) Sensory Anchors

• Touch: The stabilizer should feel like "crisp plastic" or "stiff paper" (heavy water-soluble). It must not drape.
• Sound: When stitching lace, the machine sounds different—more "hollow"—because it is punching through film, not fabric. This is normal.
• Visual: Look for the "skeleton." The first stitches lay down a grid. If this grid breaks or pulls loose, stop immediately. Your tension is too high (tight), snapping the fragile underlay.

The Beginner Trap: "Small = Easy"

False. Small items often require more precision because you have less material to grip.

• The Trap: Hooping a tiny piece of felt and tightening the screw until your fingers hurt.
• The Better Way: Hoop the stabilizer drum-tight, then stick the felt down with temporary spray adhesive (like 505 Spray) or use a basting box stitch.
  

The Sew Together Bag: Bulk Management & Sequence

Shelley demonstrates the Sew Together Bag with its three internal zippers.

The "Hidden" Skill: Bulk Management When sewing multiple zippers and pockets, layers accumulate.

• The Problem: The presser foot climbs a "cliff" of fabric, angles up, and skips stitches or breaks the needle.
• The Tool Upgrade: A "Hump Jumper" or clearance plate. Put this plastic shim behind the foot to level it out.
• Needle Choice: Upgrade to a Topstitch 90/14 needle. The larger eye protects the thread from shredding as it punches through 4+ layers of interface and cotton.

Setup Checklist: The "Assembly Line" Mindset

• Zipper Orientation: Lay out all 3 zippers. Mark the "Stop" and "Start" points with chalk so they align perfectly.
• Needle Freshness: Install a brand new needle. A dull needle makes a "popping" sound as it forces through layers; a sharp needle whispers.
• Bobbin Check: Wind 2-3 bobbins before starting. Running out of bobbin thread inside a lined tube is a nightmare to fix.
  

Applique & The Workflow Bottleneck

Shelley discusses Applique Pizzazz and the fun of decorative stitches. But let’s talk about the pain of applique: The Shift.

You place your fabric, the machine does a tack-down stitch, and the fabric slips 2mm to the right. The satin stitch cover-up misses the edge, leaving raw fabric exposed.

The "Pro" Fix: Hooping Stability

Decorative stitches are dense. They pummel the fabric.

• Level 1 Fix: Use a "fusible web" (like Steam-A-Seam) on the back of your applique fabric so it irons down before stitching.
• Level 2 Fix (Tooling): If you are doing volume applique, standard hoops are slow and slippery. This is where researching a machine embroidery hooping station pays off. It creates a standardized "jig" so every shirt or block is hooped in the exact same spot, with consistent tension.
  

Stitch Portfolio: Calibrating Your Machine

Shelley suggests the Stitch Out Portfolio. This is your Reference Data Set.

Don't just stitch them on scrap. Stitch them on:

1. Cotton with Tear-away.
2. Fleece with Cut-away.
3. Canvas with no stabilizer.

Why? You will see that Stitch #45 looks beautiful on Cotton but disappears on Fleece. When you understand your machine's personality, you stop blindly trusting the screen.

Twin Needle Physics: Avoiding "The Tunnel"

The requests for Twin Needle classes are high. Twin needles create professional hems, but they introduce a physics problem called Tunneling.

Because the bobbin thread zig-zags between two top threads, it naturally pulls them together, creating a distinct ridge (tunnel).

The Fix: Tension & Stabilization

• Sensory Adjustment: Lower your top tension. If your standard is 4.0, drop it to 2.8 or 3.0. You need "slack" to bridge the gap between needles.
• Stabilizer: You must use starch or a lightweight tear-away underneath, even for hems.
• Hoop Size: If you are doing decorative twin needle work in the hoop, careful selection of brother embroidery hoops sizes matters. Too large a hoop allows too much fabric bounce; too small restricts movement. Pick the smallest hoop that fits the design.
  

The Upgrade Path: Sergers, Software, and When to Scale

Shelley concludes with Sergers and Software. This is the transition from "Hobbyist" to "Producer."

Diagnostic: When Have You Outgrown Your Single-Needle Machine?

If you are strictly a hobbyist, a single-needle machine is fine. But if you find yourself hitting these pain points, it is time to look at the commercial ecosystem.

Pain Point 1: "It takes me longer to hoop the shirt than to embroider it."

• The Diagnosis: Workflow bottleneck.
• The Solution: Magnetic Hoops.
  • Why: They snap shut instantly. No screwing, no tugging. They hold thick items (towels, Carhartt jackets) that standard hoops cannot grip.
  • Pro Tip: Many professionals search for how to use magnetic embroidery hoop specifically to solve the "hoop burn" issue on delicate uniforms.

Warning: Magnetic Hoop Safety
Magnetic hoops use industrial-strength magnets (often N52 Neodymium).
* Pinch Hazard: They snap together with enough force to bruise fingers or blood blisters. Keep fingers clear of the edge.
* Medical Device Safety: Keep these magnets at least 6 inches away from pacemakers or insulin pumps.
* Electronic Safety: Do not place standard laptop hard drives or credit cards directly on the magnets.

Pain Point 2: "I spend half my time changing thread colors."

• The Diagnosis: Capacity bottleneck.
• The Solution: Multi-Needle Machines.
  • Why: A 15-needle machine (like the SEWTECH lineup) holds all your colors. You press start, and it runs for 40 minutes without you.
  • The ROI: If you are selling items, your labor cost drops to near zero during the stitch-out.

Pain Point 3: "My alignment is always slightly crooked."

• The Diagnosis: Human error in placement.
• The Solution: A dedicated hoopmaster or similar hooping stations. These use a physical grid to force alignment. If you can dress a mannequin, you can hoop perfectly.

The Realistic Hooping Hierarchy

1. Manual Table Hooping: Fine for one-offs.
2. Station + Standard Hoops: Better accuracy.
3. Station + Magnetic Hoops: Speed + Accuracy + Fabric Safety.
4. Multi-Needle + Production Hooping: The standard for business.

Final Pre-Class "Go-Bag" for the Smart Student

Use Shelley’s schedule, but go in armed with preparation.

The "Hidden Consumables" Checklist

Do not rely on the shop for these specific ease-of-use items:

• Temporary Spray Adhesive (e.g., 505 / Odif): Crucial for "floating" applique.
• Titanium Needles (Size 75/11 and 90/14): They stay sharp 5x longer and resist heating up effectively.
• Curved Embroidery Scissors: For snipping jump stitches without cutting the fabric.
• Tweezers: For grabbing that tiny thread tail that refuses to be caught.

By approaching these classes with this "Physics First" mindset, you stop hoping for a good result and start engineering one. Whether you are using a domestic single-needle or eyeing a SEWTECH production beast, the fundamentals of stabilization and hooping never change. Decide your goal, prep your stack, and let the machine do the work.

FAQ

• Q: How do I prevent permanent hoop burn marks when hooping velvet or performance knits with a standard plastic embroidery hoop?
  A: Use a “floating” method or switch to a magnetic embroidery hoop to hold fabric without crushing fibers—this is common, not user failure.
  • Hoop only the stabilizer drum-tight, then secure the fabric on top with temporary spray adhesive.
  • Reduce friction handling: avoid over-tightening the hoop screw “like a drum” on delicate pile/knit fabrics.
  • Success check: after unhooping, the fabric shows no hard ring impression and the nap/pile is not permanently flattened.
  • If it still fails… test a magnetic hoop for the same garment type, because clamping force can prevent the tug-of-war that causes hoop burn.
• Q: What is the stitch-out success standard for top/bobbin tension when satin columns look bad on a domestic embroidery machine?
  A: Use the “1/3 rule” on the back of satin stitching as the pass/fail check before changing other settings.
  • Stitch a small test area first, then flip the sample over and inspect the satin columns.
  • Aim for bobbin thread showing about 1/3 of the column width centered on the back (not pulling to one side).
  • Success check: the back shows a clean, centered bobbin line and the front satin edge looks smooth without looping.
  • If it still fails… stop and recheck threading path and take-up lever engagement before chasing tension numbers.
• Q: What should a stitch-out sound like on a Brother embroidery machine, and what does a sharp “clack” usually mean?
  A: A steady rhythmic “thump-thump” is normal; a sharp “clack” often signals a needle strike or mis-thread—don’t worry, it happens.
  • Pause immediately when the sound changes sharply, then hand-turn the wheel to confirm free movement.
  • Recheck that thread is seated correctly (especially if thread jumped out of the take-up lever path).
  • Inspect needle and plate area for contact marks before restarting.
  • Success check: sound returns to consistent rhythm with no repeated impact noise during tracing or stitching.
  • If it still fails… replace the needle and verify the hoop is fully locked in and not shifting.
• Q: How do I keep the embroidery hoop from moving on a domestic embroidery machine before pressing Start?
  A: Do a physical “hoop lock” check and a trace clearance check every time—these two steps prevent many crooked starts.
  • Click the hoop fully into the arm mount, then gently wiggle the hoop to confirm it is locked (no play).
  • Run the machine’s “Trace” function to ensure the needle path clears the hoop frame.
  • Mark the design center on the fabric before hooping so alignment is intentional, not guessed.
  • Success check: the hoop does not shift under light pressure and the trace path stays safely inside the frame.
  • If it still fails… move to a smaller hoop that fits the design (less fabric bounce) or consider a hooping station for repeatable placement.
• Q: How do I choose cut-away vs tear-away stabilizer to stop puckering on T-shirts and knits during machine embroidery?
  A: Use cut-away stabilizer on stretchy knits; tear-away on T-shirts often leads to puckering and tunneling.
  • Identify stretch: pull the fabric lightly—if it stretches, treat it as knit behavior.
  • Use cut-away (mesh or heavy) as the backing; optionally fuse mesh first to “lock” knit fibers before hooping.
  • Avoid tear-away as the primary backing on knits when stitch count and pull forces are high.
  • Success check: after stitching, the knit lays flat with no “bacon” ripples or edge tunneling around dense areas.
  • If it still fails… increase stabilization strategy (stronger cut-away or better fabric control) before blaming the machine.
• Q: What needle and setup changes prevent skipped stitches and needle breaks when sewing thick bag stacks and zippers (Sew Together Bag / Park Sling Bag style projects)?
  A: Slow down and manage bulk on purpose—thick seams can deflect needles and create real safety risks.
  • Slow the machine speed and hand-crank over zipper teeth and thick seam transitions.
  • Use a Hump Jumper (clearance plate) to level the presser foot when climbing layered “cliffs.”
  • Install a fresh Topstitch 90/14 needle for multi-layer work to reduce thread shredding and penetration stress.
  • Success check: needle stays visually straight (no deflection), stitches remain even through seam intersections, and no popping/clacking occurs.
  • If it still fails… stop and re-sequence the stack (reduce bulk at intersections) and replace any needle that contacted hardware.
• Q: What safety rules should users follow when handling N52-style magnetic embroidery hoops near fingers, pacemakers, or electronics?
  A: Treat magnetic hoops like a pinch tool and a medical/electronics hazard—use deliberate handling every time.
  • Keep fingers away from the closing edge; let the frame snap shut only when hands are clear to avoid bruising/blood blisters.
  • Keep magnetic hoops at least 6 inches away from pacemakers or insulin pumps.
  • Do not place credit cards or laptop hard drives directly on or against the magnets.
  • Success check: the hoop closes without finger contact and is stored away from sensitive devices when not in use.
  • If it still fails… switch to a handling routine that separates the halves on a table (not mid-air) to control the snap force.
• Q: If hooping shirts takes longer than stitching on a single-needle embroidery machine, what is the best upgrade path: technique, magnetic hoops, hooping station, or a multi-needle machine?
  A: Diagnose the bottleneck first, then upgrade in levels: optimize technique, then tooling, then production capacity (this is a very common growth path).
  • Level 1 (Technique): float fabric when appropriate, mark centers clearly, and standardize a pre-flight checklist (needle, bobbins, trace).
  • Level 2 (Tooling): add magnetic hoops for faster clamping and less fabric damage; add a hooping station to reduce placement drift.
  • Level 3 (Capacity): move to a multi-needle machine when thread color changes dominate labor time and you need unattended stitch-outs.
  • Success check: hooping time drops noticeably and placement becomes repeatable without re-hooping multiple times per item.
  • If it still fails… track which step consumes the minutes (hooping, color changes, alignment fixes) and upgrade the specific constraint instead of buying randomly.