emCAD Tutorial: Digitizing White Satin Stitch, Underlay, and Saving to DHP/DST

Video reference: “emCAD Digitizing Tutorial: Creating White Color and Saving Design” by GINA W

Crisp white satin stitches can make or break a design. This hands-on guide shows you exactly how to set density and underlay, trace straights and curves cleanly, and cut down on jump stitches—then save cleanly to DHP and DST so your machine runs smoothly.

What you’ll learn

• When to choose Input Symmetry and how to work it efficiently

• The exact satin stitch parameters used: stitch distance, max/min stitch length, forward/back counts, and split

• Underlay pairing (center run + zigzag) and edge spacing for stable coverage

• How to use Shortening at angles and the Shape tool to reposition start/end points and fine-tune gaps

• How to save edits in DHP and export a machine-ready DST

Mastering White Satin Stitch in emCAD

Understanding Satin Stitch and Its Importance Satin stitch is the go-to for clean, opaque white areas, especially when you want smooth edges and a slight sheen. In emCAD, you’ll create each section of white using a satin object with precise density, stitch length, and underlay so it runs cleanly on the machine and sits flat on the surface. If you’re hooping bulky items later, pairing good digitizing with a stable hoop can help maintain alignment across sections, especially when using magnetic hoops for embroidery machines.

Choosing the Right Input Tool: Symmetry vs. Parallel Use Input Symmetry to digitize segments one by one with control over straights and curves. Input Parallel is for identical-width, side-by-side fills; for this design’s white segments, Input Symmetry is favored because it gives you flexible, point-by-point control.

Quick check

• Input Symmetry is highlighted in the toolbar.

• The canvas shows the start cursor ready for your first click.

Watch out

• Selecting Input Parallel will constrain your options. If you clicked the wrong icon, reselect Input Symmetry before placing points.

Prep checklist

• emCAD running and design on screen

• White sections identified for satin

• Input Symmetry selected

Optimizing Stitch Properties for Flawless Embroidery

Setting Stitch Density and Length for Quality Open Object Property (right-click) and select Satin as the Fill Stitch. Set Stitch Distance to 0.4 mm for a solid fill that avoids gaps. For stitch length control, set the maximum stitch length to 12 mm and the minimum stitch to 0.5 mm. Keep Auto Split at Times = 1 so long spans self-manage without excessive fragmentation.

Why these values matter: Stitch Distance controls coverage—smaller values are denser; larger values loosen coverage. A 0.4 mm spacing balances coverage and thread usage. The 12 mm max stitch length helps avoid huge long stitches across wide areas; the 0.5 mm minimum keeps short details from turning into dense thread knots.

Forward Count and Backward Count at 1/1 provide clean, efficient passes without redundant retracing. This keeps stitch build-up in check, which is especially important on bright white satin where excess thickness is more visible.

Setup checklist

• Fill Stitch: Satin

• Stitch Distance: 0.4 mm

• Forward Count: 1; Backward Count: 1

• Auto Split: Times = 1

• Max Stitch Length: 12 mm; Minimum Stitch: 0.5 mm

Pro tip

• You can test alternate densities (e.g., 0.6–0.9 mm) on scrap fabric when you need lighter coverage. For heavy, high-contrast garments, stay closer to 0.4 mm.

The Art of Underlay: Enhancing Design Stability

First Underlay: Center Run Explained Enable First Underlay and choose Center Run with a stitch length around 2.5 mm. This single line stabilizes the path, reduces fabric lift, and gives the satin a consistent foundation.

Second Underlay: Zigzag for Added Dimension Enable Second Underlay as Zigzag with 1.5 mm spacing, length 12 mm, and angle 90°. This adds loft and evens out the surface so the satin on top covers more consistently—especially helpful for pure white areas where show-through is obvious.

Adjusting Edge Space for Underlay Precision Set edge spacing so the underlay sits slightly inside the satin boundary: 0.3 mm for top/bottom and 0.2 mm for the sides. This helps prevent underlay from peeking beyond the satin edges.

Quick check

• Center Run underlay ON at ≈2.5 mm

• Zigzag underlay ON at 1.5 mm spacing, length 12, angle 90°

• Edge spacing: 0.3 mm (top/bottom), 0.2 mm (sides)

Watch out

• Forgetting underlay can lead to puckering, uneven loft, or visible fabric between satin rails—especially noticeable with white thread.

Digitizing Techniques for Complex Shapes

Creating Straight Lines with Control Key With Input Symmetry selected, press Enter to confirm your saved specs (you’ll hear a beep). Left-click to place points. Hold Control (Ctrl) while left-clicking to lock perfectly straight segments—ideal for zig-zagging elements and rectangular strokes. Press Enter to complete the object when the segment is done.

Outcome expectation: The section renders as blue satin stitches following your straight points exactly. If a line looks off, undo and re-click using Ctrl to constrain the path.

Pro tip

• Use fewer, well-placed points on straights. More points often create micro-angles that show on satin.

Achieving Smooth Curves with Right-Clicks For curves and circles, right-click to generate smooth arcs. Combine left-clicks (straights) and right-clicks (curves) in the same object as needed. Keep your point count sensible: too many points can create bumps; too few can flatten the curve.

Outcome expectation: A smooth, consistent curve with uniform density along the path. If you see jaggedness, reshape points for incremental curvature rather than sharp turns.

Using Shortening for Sharp Angles and Varying Widths Enable Shortening before or after the first section—ensure the icon is active. Shortening alternates stitch endpoints at corners and varying widths to prevent bulky thread stacks. This is particularly helpful in tight internal corners, acute angles, and where the satin width changes rapidly.

Watch out

• Forgetting Shortening can leave thick ridges at corners. If you notice bulky build-up, activate Shortening and re-evaluate those sections.

Operation checklist

• Input Symmetry active (beep confirms saved specs)

• Ctrl for straight lines; right-click for curves

• Shortening enabled for angles

• Press Enter to finalize each section

Refining Your Design: Shape Tool and Jump Stitch Optimization

Adjusting Start and End Points for Seamless Transitions Open Shape. The green square marks the start; the red cross marks the end. Drag the end of one section toward where the next will begin to shorten travel—then press Enter to confirm. Likewise, move the start of the next section to meet the prior end when possible. This reduces visible jump stitches and thread trims.

Outcome expectation: Shorter travel lines and fewer jumps between consecutive elements. Your run order becomes more efficient as you reposition starts/ends.

Fine-Tuning Design Gaps and Overlaps If you see gaps or tight overlaps when comparing to the artwork, select the satin object and use Shape to nudge edge nodes slightly inward or outward, then Enter to confirm. Make conservative micro-moves to avoid distortion.

Pro tip

• Long sequences with many segments benefit from a consistent hooping workflow. A placement aid such as a hoop master embroidery hooping station can help keep fabric alignment reliable from piece to piece.

Pro tip

• For thick items or multi-layer garments, reducing jumps with careful start/end planning helps prevent snags and stray threads that are harder to trim after stitching, especially when you later use a magnetic embroidery hoops setup.

Saving Your Masterpiece for Machine Embroidery

Saving in DHP for Future Edits Go to File > Save As and save an editable DHP version with a clear name/numbering system. DHP preserves all object properties (stitch distance, underlay types, edge spacing), so you can reopen and adjust later without redigitizing.

Exporting to DST for Machine Compatibility Save As again, choose Tajima DST, and use the same base name. DST is machine-ready and widely accepted by commercial and home embroidery machines. Keep both the editable DHP and the run-ready DST together in your project folder for easy handoff.

Quick check

• DHP saved in your designated folder

• DST exported with matching name

• If needed, copy DST to USB for transfer to the embroidery machine

Pro tip

• If you plan to stitch on multi-needle gear later, having DST on a labeled USB makes test-runs simple—especially if you’re coordinating accessories like magnetic hoops or a dime snap hoop for repeatable placement.

Quality Checks

• Density: At 0.4 mm, fills should look opaque with no show-through. If you see gaps, verify Stitch Distance.

• Underlay: Toggle outline view to confirm Center Run and Zigzag are present and tucked 0.3/0.2 mm inside the satin edge.

• Corners/Angles: Inspect tight turns; Shortening should prevent thick ridges.

• Curves: No faceting or lumps—right-click points should read smoothly.

• Start/End Logic: Jumps between sections should be minimized through Shape adjustments.

• File Outputs: Confirm both DHP and DST exist and open cleanly.

Quick check

• Open the last section with Shape and confirm green (start) and red (end) are placed to minimize travel to the next element.

Troubleshooting & Recovery Symptom: Gaps in white fill

• Likely cause: Stitch Distance too large; underlay not stabilizing.

• Fix: Reduce Stitch Distance toward 0.4 mm; ensure Center Run and Zigzag are enabled.

Symptom: Bulky corners or thick thread at angles

• Likely cause: Shortening not enabled.

• Fix: Activate Shortening and re-evaluate sections with acute angles.

Symptom: Jagged or bumpy curves

• Likely cause: Too many/too few points; using left-clicks on curves.

• Fix: Re-digitize curves with right-clicks and balanced spacing; refine nodes in Shape.

Symptom: Excessive jump stitches between elements

• Likely cause: Start/end points not optimized.

• Fix: Move red end closer to the next start; move green start to meet the previous end when possible.

Symptom: DST won’t open on machine

• Likely cause: Wrong file saved or placed in the wrong location.

• Fix: Re-export as DST; confirm it’s copied to the correct folder/USB root expected by your machine.

Pro tip

• If your production flow uses different hoop accessories, test run order and jumps on your machine configuration. That includes when switching to systems like mighty hoops magnetic embroidery hoops or a magnetic hoop embroidery frame, so travel trims align with your physical setup.

Results & Handoff By following these steps, you’ll have:

• Clean, opaque white satin areas with 0.4 mm density and controlled max/min stitch lengths

• Stable underlay foundation (Center Run + Zigzag) with edge spacing set inside the satin perimeter

• Straight runs and smooth curves using the correct click technique

• Optimized start/end points that reduce jumps and trims

• A paired save: an editable DHP and a machine-ready DST—ready to copy to USB and stitch

If you standardize this workflow across designs, you’ll speed up your digitizing and reduce rework on test sew-outs. When you’re ready to scale production or swap hoop systems, retain your DHP master so adjustments remain painless—especially helpful if moving between accessories like magnetic hoops for tajima embroidery machines.

Operation checklist (one glance)

• Input Symmetry selected; specs saved (beep)

• Satin: 0.4 mm distance; 12 mm max; 0.5 mm min; Split x1; Fwd/Back 1/1

• Underlay: Center Run (~2.5 mm) + Zigzag (1.5 mm space, length 12, angle 90°)

• Shortening ON

• Straights (Ctrl + left-click); Curves (right-click)

• Shape: reposition starts/ends; tune gaps; Enter to confirm

• Save DHP; export DST

From the comments

• No community Q&A was available for this tutorial at the time of writing. If you’ve tested variations (e.g., alternative densities or underlay edge spacing) share your findings with your team to build a house standard.