Table of Contents
Watch the video: “5 Embroidery Stitches for Letters (Express Version)” by the creator (channel not specified).
Two lines, one hoop, five gorgeous lines of texture. This express tutorial condenses five letter-perfect stitches into a breezy walkthrough—great if you want a refresher or a fast start before diving deeper.
What you’ll learn
- How to work stem stitch for smooth, flowing letter outlines.
- How to build and weave a back stitch base for a soft, textured line.
- How to couch a laid thread—including a puffy variation—to add dimension.
- How to form linked cable chain stitches with even wraps and tension.
- How to master the knot-forward Palestrina stitch and control spacing.
Pro tip If you’re completely new, secure your fabric in an embroidery hoop, use a waste knot to start, and focus on consistent tension before speed. magnetic embroidery hoop
Watch out The video is an express run-through; it doesn’t specify thread types or exact measurements. Follow the movements and keep tension gentle so your fabric stays flat.
Quick check
- Are your stitches even in length and spacing?
- Is your loop or wrap consistently placed (right/left) per stitch instructions?
- Does the line read clearly as a letter stroke at arm’s length?
Mastering the Stem Stitch Stem stitch makes a steady, slightly twisted line that hugs curves and letter outlines beautifully. In the video, the maker starts with a waste knot, then two tiny back-to-back anchoring stitches to secure the thread. She begins at the bottom and works upward: take a small forward stitch, keep the working loop to the right, then bring the needle up between the two points of the previous stitch and pull through. The “loop right” rule remains constant throughout when working upwards.
Two things keep stem stitch smooth: consistent stitch length and consistent loop direction. You’ll see the needle rising exactly in the middle of the previous stitch’s entry and exit points. Pull the thread through to the back first to settle tension, then draw the remaining slack snug—firm, not tight. Finish with a slightly shorter stitch and weave the end on the back before trimming.
Quick check
- Loop to the right every time (when working up a line).
- Stitches are similar in length for a continuous twist.
- The fabric remains flat—no puckering from overtight tension.
Watch out If your line kinks, you likely alternated loop side by accident. Pause and re-establish “loop to the right” for the next stitch.
Creating with Woven Back Stitch This textured favorite is built in two passes: a back stitch foundation and a weaving thread (often in a contrasting color for impact). Start with a waste knot and prepare two threads: one works the back stitch line, the other will weave later. Form your foundation by making a short forward stitch, then come back into the end of the previous stitch. Repeat with even lengths for a tidy base.
With the second pass, bring the weaving thread up where the back stitch began. Weave under one back stitch at a time—right to left, then left to right—always under the thread and never piercing the fabric. This keeps the woven line sitting softly on the surface.
Tension is everything here. The video emphasizes a gentle hand: pull too tightly and the beautiful wave disappears; too loose and the weaving looks slack. Adjust as you go—slide the thread with the needle to even the rhythm of the weave. Finish by taking the weaving thread to the back at the end of the foundation line so both threads share the same exit point.
Pro tip Two colors make this stitch sing—use your letter outline as the dark foundation and a lighter or brighter shade to weave for contrast. embroidery sewing machine
Watch out Accidentally piercing the fabric during weaving will lock the thread and flatten texture. If you notice drag, unpick that pass and re-weave under the back stitch thread only.
Exploring the Couching Stitch Couching secures a thicker or decorative thread laid on the surface with small perpendicular stitches. In the video, a red thread is laid along the letter line without securing its ends initially. A second thread (purple) makes short, straight tacking stitches across the red thread at even intervals.
The spacing and angle of those small stitches matter: keep them perpendicular to the laid thread and evenly spaced so the rhythm reads clean, like typeset.
Adding dimension with puffy couching There’s a playful twist shown here: after placing a few securing stitches, gently pull the laid red thread to create puffy sections. The key is subtle, even tension—too much and loops bunch; too little and the effect disappears. The maker leaves the end of the red thread unsecured at first to adjust those loops, then returns to ordinary couching for a flat finish at the end.
Quick check
- Are securing stitches perpendicular and evenly spaced?
- Does the laid thread run straight along the guide line?
- If puffy, are the loops even along the length?
From the comments
- Fabric type: The maker later confirms in a comment that the fabric is linen twill; there’s no thread count specified.
- Laid thread thickness: The red thread used for couching was full-size strands, about 1 mm, per the creator’s reply.
Pro tip Mark light tick marks along your letter guides to pace even couching stitches. Erase marks later based on your preferred marking tool. best embroidery machine for beginners
Watch out Don’t couch too close to the very end of the line; leave a touch of space so the laid thread can sit comfortably without the last tack stitch crowding the tip.
The Intricate Cable Chain Stitch Cable chain is a chain stitch with a distinctive wrap that makes each link read like a tiny connected cable. Start as for a chain: up and down in the same hole to catch a loop, then bring the needle up through the loop to form the first link. Point your working thread in the direction of travel. Wrap the thread once around the needle from left to right, take the needle back down next to the previous link, and come up inside the loop you’ve created—this forms the cable’s “knot” inside each chain link.
Even tension is crucial. Too tight and the loop collapses; too loose and the link sags. Keep link lengths consistent for a tidy letter stroke. When you reach the end, place a small securing stitch over the last link so it holds shape.
Quick check
- Each link shows a clear inner wrap.
- Links are similar in size for a smooth line.
- The wrapped thread seats neatly without twisting over itself.
From the comments A viewer asked about using heavy metallic thread for cable chain; the creator pointed to a separate video on handling metallics. Metallics can behave differently, so practice the wrap-and-tension motion on a test scrap first.
Pro tip Try cable chain for bold initials—it reads beautifully at medium length links. magnetic hoops for embroidery
Unlocking the Palestrina Stitch Palestrina is a charming knotted line with a repeatable movement. The sequence shown in the video is defined and rhythmic: 1) Make a straight stitch at a slight diagonal angle to the right.
2) Bring the needle up to the left of that stitch and slide the needle underneath it.
3) Bring the needle up between the two points of the original straight stitch from left to right—critically, inside the loop formed by the working thread.
4) Pull through to seat the knot. Repeat along the line, varying the initial straight stitch length to adjust spacing.
The inside-the-loop step is essential; miss it and you won’t get the signature knot. Tension should be firm enough to form a clean bump but not so tight that the knot sinks into the fabric. The video shows that you can choose how far apart the knots sit by lengthening or shortening the initial diagonal stitch.
Quick check
- Each knot is fully formed and sits proud of the surface.
- Spacing is even (unless you’re deliberately varying it for style).
- The initial diagonal stitch consistently angles the same way.
Troubleshooting tips for perfect knots
- Misshapen knots: Revisit the loop path—ensure the needle passes under the first straight stitch and up between the two points inside the loop.
- Uneven spacing: Mark light dots to guide your diagonal stitch lengths.
- Tension woes: Pull gradually so the knot forms at the surface before seating it firmly.
From the comments Stitch-ending question? The creator recommended weaving your thread tail under a few stitches on the back before trimming (referenced in a separate “Egg project” video). For extra-thick letter strokes, the creator later suggested trying thicker stitches from a companion video or simply doubling your thread.
Pro tip Because Palestrina reads like a dotted rope, it’s excellent for monogram outlines or to edge a filled letter for texture.
Final Thoughts on Letter Embroidery These five stitches cover a spectrum of textures for lettering—from the sleek twist of stem stitch to the airy woven back stitch, the sculptural couching (flat or puffy), the linked precision of cable chain, and the tactile knots of Palestrina. The express video keeps things moving, but the key habits recur: anchor cleanly, control tension gently, and prioritize even spacing.
What to practice next
- Stem stitch on curves: Practice S and C shapes to keep the twist flowing.
- Woven back stitch in two colors: Contrast base vs. weave for clarity.
- Couching with puffy sections: Alternate flat and puffy segments for emphasis (e.g., capital letter downstrokes).
- Cable chain scale tests: Try short vs. long links to see what reads best at your letter height.
- Palestrina spacing: Map different knot spacing to create rhythm in script letterforms.
From the comments (roundup)
- Fabric: Linen twill was used; no thread count specified.
- Marking: If you plan to draw guidelines, the creator points to a separate video on pens and pencils for embroidery.
- Laid thread thickness (couching): About 1 mm (full-size strands) per the creator.
- Finishing: Weave the tail under a few stitches on the back.
- Heavy metallics: See the dedicated video for handling metallic threads.
Watch out The video does not specify exact thread brands, counts, or needle sizes. If you’re unsure, test on scrap fabric first to find a combination that holds tension without puckering.
Quick check Lay your work down and view from arm’s length. Do your letter strokes appear even, and does the texture enhance legibility rather than overpower it?
From hand to machine: choosing your path This tutorial is entirely hand embroidery. If you ever switch to machine methods for monograms or uniforms, you’ll encounter different tooling. Research before you buy, and test stabilizers and hooping methods to protect fabric and maintain alignment. mighty hoop
Gear sidebar (for machine-curious stitchers) While this guide focuses on hand stitches, machine embroiderers often experiment with various magnetic and snap-style frames to speed setup and reduce fabric distortion. Explore options methodically and match them to your machine brand when you’re ready to try machine lettering. snap hoop monster
If you want to keep exploring
- Rewatch the express video for muscle memory—mirror the needle path slowly, then at full speed.
- Seek the creator’s longer versions and specialty videos (e.g., tools for marking, metallic thread handling) for deeper technique.
- Keep a stitch sampler: dedicate one hoop to test lengths, loop directions, and tensions for each stitch.
Closing stitch checklist
- Start cleanly (waste knot + secure) and finish by weaving tails under back stitches.
- Keep loops and wraps consistent as shown.
- Adjust only one variable at a time: stitch length, spacing, or tension.
- Photograph your progress to spot spacing irregularities you might miss while stitching.
Happy stitching—your letters will only get steadier and more expressive from here. magnetic embroidery frames
Note on tools and materials The video demonstrates needle handling, thread, and fabric in a hoop; it does not specify brands, needle sizes, or thread counts beyond a later comment noting linen twill fabric and, for couching, a laid thread around 1 mm.
Optional next step If you plan to mix hand and machine workflows—for example, hand-outlined letters with a machine-filled background—do a small test first to see how the materials behave under tension. magnetic hoops for embroidery