Ricoma 10S Touchscreen on a 15-Needle Machine: The Fast, No-Panic Workflow for Monogramming Towels (Search, Center, Trace, Rotate)

If you’ve ever hooped a big, plush bath towel, slid it onto a multi-needle machine arm, and felt that sudden spike of panic—“Please tell me nothing is folded under there”—you’re not being dramatic. You are experiencing the rational fear of a machine operator facing one of the most unforgiving substrates in the industry. Towels are bulky, the pile grabs everything, and if the fabric bunches underneath, you don't just lose a towel; you risk bending a needle bar.

This guide rebuilds the workflow Kelly demonstrates on the Ricoma 10S touchscreen, but we are going deeper. We are moving from "how to press buttons" to "how to run production." We will cover loading a design via USB search, centering with parallax correction (Needle 1), tracing boundaries, and the critical "Hoop Out" function.

More importantly, I am adding the "Old Tech's" Safety Layer: the sensory checks your hands must perform, the physics of stabilizer on terry cloth, and where specific tool upgrades—like SEWTECH’s production-grade accessories—can save you from the repetitive stress injuries and quality failures that plague beginners.

The Ricoma 10S Touchscreen Upgrade: Why This Panel Feels Like a Real Production Tool

Kelly’s demonstration highlights a shift in user experience. The Ricoma 10S 10.1-inch touchscreen isn't just about "looking cool"; it is about reducing Cognitive Load. When you are on your 50th shirt of the day, or trying to finish a custom gift at midnight, small frictions—like scrolling through 500 files to find "Smith_Logo"—accumulate into exhaustion.

Here are the specific upgrades that matter for production:

• 10.1-inch High-Def Panel: You can actually see the stitch density on screen before you ruin a garment.
• Massive Storage: Up to 10 million stitches. This means you aren't constantly swapping USB sticks.
• Visual Color Assignment: You see the thread colors on screen where they belong, reducing the "did I put blue on needle 4 or 5?" anxiety.
• Search Function: The killer feature. Type "Wed" and find "Wedding_Towel" instantly.
• Maintenance Logs: The machine tells you when it needs oil. Ignore this at your peril; friction is the enemy of precision.

If you are shopping or comparing, understand this: Interface speed equals profit. The less time you spend pecking at a screen, the more time your needles are moving.

(Note: The video shows this panel on a 15-needle chassis. Always verify specific model component compatibility with your dealer.)

The “Hidden” Towel Prep That Prevents 80% of Placement Disasters on a Tubular Hoop

Towels behave like fluids—they flow, drape, and pool. Unlike a stiff cap or a flat t-shirt, a bath towel wants to slide off your workspace.

Kelly demonstrates the single most critical safety check: after sliding the hooped towel onto the pantograph driver, she reaches underneath.

The Veteran's Why: When you slide a heavy towel onto a tubular arm, the friction often pulls the excess fabric (the part hanging down) into the gap between the rotary hook and the needle plate arm. If you stitch over folded fabric, you will hear a sickening crunch.

1. The Result: You stitch the towel to itself.
2. The Fix: You have to cut the towel loose (ruining it) or, worse, you've knocked the hoop timing out of alignment.

The Tool Upgrade Path: If you find yourself fighting to keep thick towels tight in standard plastic hoops, or if you see "hoop burn" (crushed pile foundation) after unhooping, your equipment is fighting you. This is the Primary Trigger for upgrading. Terms like magnetic embroidery hoops are your gateways to understanding efficient production. Unlike friction hoops that require brute force, magnetic hoops (like the SEWTECH MaggieFrame series) use vertical magnetic force to hold bulky items without crushing the fibers or requiring superhuman wrist strength.

Prep Checklist (Do This Before You Touch the Screen)

Perform these physical checks in this exact order to ensure safety.

• Hoop Security Check: Confirm the towel is taut like a drum skin, but not stretched out of shape. Ensure the inner ring hasn't popped out at the corners.
• The "Under-Sweep": Slide the hoop onto the machine arm. Take your hand and physically sweep underneath the hoop area. Sensory Check: You should feel only the smooth metal arm, no lumps of fabric.
• Bobbin Audit: Check your bobbin level. Visual Check: Do you have enough thread for a 5,000-stitch monogram? If in doubt, change it now.
• Traction Clearance: Ensure the heavy towel hanging off the machine isn't caught on the table legs or your chair. It must hang freely to avoid "drag" that distorts lettering.

Warning: Projectiles & Punctures. Keep fingers, snips, and loose clothing (hoodie strings!) away from the needle bar area. Multi-needle machines do not stop when you touch them. A 1000 RPM needle strike to the finger is a medical emergency.

The Tie-On Thread Change on a Ricoma Multi-Needle: Fast Color Swaps Without Re-Threading Everything

Kelly changes thread using the "Tie-On" method (often called the Weaver's Knot method). This is industry standard for minimizing downtime.

The Procedure:

1. Cut the old thread at the spool (top).
2. Tie the new thread to the old tail using a small, tight knot (square knot preferred).
3. Pull from the Needle: Grab the thread at the needle eye and pull it through the tension discs and guides.

The Sensory Check (Crucial): As you pull the thread through the machine, pay attention to your fingers.

• What you should feel: A consistent, smooth drag—similar to pulling dental floss from a container.
• What you should NOT feel: A sudden "snap" or hard stop. If the knot gets stuck in a tension disc or guide, STOP. Do not force it. Snip the knot and thread that section manually. Forcing a knot through a tension disc can scratch the plates, ruining your tension forever.
  

USB Search on the Ricoma 10S Panel: Load Designs Without Endless Scrolling

Kelly’s favorite feature is the search function, and for good reason. Efficiency isn't just about stitch speed; it's about setup speed.

The Workflow:

1. Insert USB.
2. Tap USB tab -> Search Icon.
3. Type the prefix (e.g., "AS").
4. Select -> Save to Machine.

The file naming discipline: A machine's search is only as good as your labeling.

• Bad Name: monogram_final_2.dst
• Good Name: TOWEL_Smith_ 3in_Satin.dst

By naming files with [Material]_[Client]_[Size], you leverage the search tool to slash setup time by 50%.

Needle 1 as Your “Pointer”: Centering a Monogram on a Towel Using the Ricoma Grid Workflow

Kelly centers her design by selecting Needle 1 and strictly using it as a visual pointer to align with her printed template.

Why this matters (Parallax Error): On a multi-needle machine, if you are looking at Needle 7 (center of the head) but aligning for Needle 1 (far right), your eyes will lie to you.

The Protocol:

1. Mark your towel: Use a crosshair mark (water-soluble pen) or a placement template.
2. Select Needle 1: On the screen, tell the machine to move Needle 1 to the active position.
3. Jog: Move the pantograph until Needle 1 is directly hovering over your mark.
4. Confirm: Lower the needle bar manually (power off or use the manual knob if available) to ensure the tip touches the dead center of your crosshair.

Tip: Do not trust the "Laser" unless you have calibrated it recently. The physical needle tip never lies.

The Trace Button on Ricoma 10S: Your Last Chance to Avoid a Hoop Strike

After centering, Kelly uses Trace → Trace Design. This moves the hoop visually around the outermost borders of the design without stitching.

What you are watching for:

• Hoop Collision: Does the presser foot get dangerously close (within 5mm) of the plastic hoop frame?
• Clip Collision: Will the needle bar hit the metal clips holding the hoop?

The Physics of "Towel Drift": Towels are thick. This thickness pushes the embroidery surface up closer to the needle plate. This reduces your clearance. If a trace looks "tight" on a t-shirt, it might be a collision on a towel. Give yourself extra margin.

The “Hoop Out” Button on Ricoma 10S: The Access Move That Makes Trimming and Appliqué Less Miserable

Kelly demonstrates the Hoop Out function. This pushes the pantograph all the way forward toward the operator.

Ergonomics & Safety: Trying to trim a jump stitch or place a water-soluble topper while the hoop is tucked deep inside the machine cavity is a recipe for error. You risk bumping the needle bar or burning your wrist on the lamps.

• Use Case: Appliqué placement.
• Use Case: Trimming loose threads before the next color.
• Use Case: Placing the "Topper" (Solvy) safely.
  

Color Assignment on the Ricoma 10S: Match Needle 15 to Lilac and See It On-Screen

The machine doesn't "know" what color is on Needle 15 unless you tell it. Kelly assigns "Lilac" to Needle 15 on the screen.

Why do this? It prevents the "Generic Blue" problem. Many machines default all design colors to generic blues or reds on screen. By matching the screen color to reality, you create a Visual Double-Check. If the screen shows Purple, but Needle 15 is holding Green, your brain triggers an alert before you ruin the product.

Rotate 180° on the Ricoma 10S: Fix an Upside-Down Hooped Towel Without Re-Hooping

Kelly hooped the towel "Upside Down" (tag towards the machine). This is actually the preferred method for large towels because the bulk of the towel falls onto the table behind the machine, rather than piling up in your lap.

The Fix: She rotates the design 180° on screen.

• Method: Rotate 45° x 4 clicks.

Critical Check: After rotating, you MUST TRACE AGAIN. Rotating a design changes its outer boundaries relative to the arm. Never assume a rotated design fits just because the upright one did.

Setup Checklist (Right Before You Stitch)

The "Pilot's Pre-Flight" - Do not skip.

• Design Orientation: Is the design rotated 180° if the towel is tag-in?
• Needle Selection: Is the machine set to stitch with the correct needle (e.g., Needle 15)?
• Trace Confirmation: Did you run a trace after all rotations? Did the foot stay 5mm away from the hoop walls?
• Topper Applied: Is your Water Soluble Topper (Solvy) floating on top? (See next section).
• Hidden Consumable: Do you have your angled "Duckbill" scissors ready for trimming later?
  

Water-Soluble Topper on Terry Cloth Towels: The Clean Stitching Move People Skip

Kelly floats a piece of water-soluble stabilizer (topper) on top of the towel.

The Physics of the "Topper": Terry cloth is made of thousands of tiny loops. Without a topper, the embroidery thread sinks between these loops, making the monogram look jagged and sunken. The topper creates a temporary "floor" that holds the stitches up high.

Decision Tree: Towel Type → Stabilizer Plan Getting the "Sandwich" right is 90% of the battle.

• Scenario A: Plush/High-Pile Bath Towel (The Beast)
  • Top: Water Soluble Topper (Heavyweight).
  • Bottom: Tear-Away (2 layers) OR Cut-Away (if the towel has stretch).
  • Action: Use Magnetic Hoops to permit thickness without crushing pile.
• Scenario B: Kitchen Towel / Low Pile (Waffle Weave)
  • Top: Water Soluble Topper (Lightweight) - prevent needle snagging.
  • Bottom: Tear-Away (1 layer).
• Scenario C: Stretchy Microfiber Towel
  • Top: Water Soluble Topper.
  • Bottom: Fusible Cut-Away. (Stretch is the enemy; Cut-Away kills the stretch).

Hidden Consumable: Temporary Spray Adhesive (e.g., 505 Spray). Use a light mist on your backing stabilizer to hold the towel firm so it doesn't "creep" during vigorous stitching.

Start the Monogram and Watch the Speed: 630 SPM With Slower Curves at 570 SPM

Kelly runs the machine. The screen shows 630 SPM (Stitches Per Minute), slowing to 570 SPM on curves.

The "Beginner Sweet Spot" (Actionable Advice): While the machine can go 1000 SPM, physics dictates that faster speeds = more vibration = more chance for the heavy towel to shift.

• Recommendation: Start your first towel at 500-600 SPM.
• Listen: Listen to the machine.
  • Good Sound: A rhythmic "Thump-thump-thump" (like a heartbeat).
  • Bad Sound: A sharp "Clack-clack" or "Grinding."

If it sounds angry, slow down. Quality is better than speed on a custom item.

Operation Checklist (While It’s Stitching)

• The "Bird's Nest" Watch: Watch the first 100 stitches intently. If the thread shreds or gathers, hit Stop immediately.
• Topper Shift: Ensure the water-soluble topper isn't curling up and catching on the foot. Tape it down if necessary.
• Towel Drag: Occasionally check that the rest of the towel isn't caught on a table edge, creating drag that will distort the letters.
• The Finish: When done, tear away the topper gently. Use a wet Q-tip or a spray bottle to dissolve the remaining bits—do not pick at them with tweezers, or you'll pull the loops.

Comment-Driven Pro Tips: Digitizing, “Sticker Centering,” and the Buyer’s Remorse Trap

The video comments reveal the hidden anxieties of real users. Let's address them with professional solutions.

Pro tip: If you outsource digitizing, build a repeatable spec sheet

Kelly uses Apex, but the "Who" matters less than the "What." The Spec: When ordering a file for a towel, you must tell the digitizer: "This is for Terry Cloth. Please increase Underlay density and Pull Compensation." If you don't ask for this, they will digitize for a flat shirt, and your towel monogram will sink and disappear.

Watch out: Don’t assume every brand’s centering system works the same

Brother users are used to the "Snowman Sticker" camera system. Ricoma users (in this specific workflow) use the "needle-point" method. Neither is wrong, but muscle memory from one won't work on the other. Rely on physical geometry: A measured crosshair marked on the topper is the most accurate standard in the world.

Pro tip: If you bought right before an upgrade...

Don't panic. The mechanics of the machine (the pantograph, the hook, the needles) are often identical. The screen is just the interface. You can achieve the exact same quality on an older screen; it just requires a bit more patience with file selection.

The Upgrade Path That Actually Makes Sense: When to Add Magnetic Hoops vs When to Jump to a Multi-Needle

You are likely reading this because you have hit a wall. Maybe your wrists hurt from hoop screws, or maybe you are turning down orders because you can't change colors fast enough.

Here is your diagnostic criteria for spending money wisely:

Phase 1: The "Wrist Pain" & Quality Phase

• Symptom: You dread hooping towels because the clamps won't shut, or you leave "hoop burn" rings that customers complain about.
• The Fix: Upgrade your holding method. hooping for embroidery machine success relies on stability, not crushing force.
• Recommendation: SEWTECH Magnetic Hoops. They snap on automatically, adjust to thick fabrics instantly, and leave zero burn marks. This is the cheapest way to make production feel premium.

Phase 2: The "Capacity" Phase

• Symptom: You are spending more time re-threading your single-needle machine than actually stitching. You have orders for 20+ polos or caps.
• The Fix: Upgrade your capacity.
• Recommendation: A SEWTECH 15-Needle Machine (similar chassis to the video). This allows you to load 15 colors at once. You press "Start" and walk away to pack orders. Terms like embroidery machine 15 needle represent the leap from "Hobbyist" to "Business Owner."

Warning: Magnetic Field Safety. Magnetic hoops use industrial-grade magnets. They are incredibly strong.
1. Pinch Hazard: They handles can snap together instantly—keep fingers clear!
2. Medical Devices: Operators with Pacemakers or ICDs should consult their doctor and maintain safe distances, typically 6-12 inches, though recommendations vary.

A Quick Reality Check on Ricoma Models: EM-1010, MT Series, and What This Video Actually Shows

While Kelly is demonstrating on a 15-needle commercial chassis, the principles (Trace, Hooping Check, Topper) apply to everything from a Brother PE800 to a massive Tajima.

However, the 10S Screen features (like the specific search UI and maintenance logs) are specific to Ricoma's newer mainboards. If you are buying a used machine, check the screen generation. But remember: A fancy screen doesn't make good stitches; tension, stabilization, and hooping make good stitches.

The Results Mindset: A Clean Towel Monogram Is a System, Not a Lucky Run

Kelly’s final result is crisp, centered, and professional. It looks easy, but it is the result of a strict system:

1. Safety: She checked under the hoop.
2. Physics: She used a Topper for the pile.
3. Geometry: She rotated the design to match the efficient hooping orientation.

If you adopt just two habits from this breakdown, make them these: Always feel under the hoop (Safety) and Always use a Topper on terry cloth (Quality).

Once you master the technique, look at your tools. If the tool is fighting you—fighting to close the hoop, floating the designs, or breaking threads—it is time to upgrade the tool, not just your patience.

FAQ

• Q: How do I prevent folded towel fabric from getting trapped under the hoop on a Ricoma 10S tubular arm before starting embroidery?
  A: Do an “under-sweep” every time right after sliding the hooped towel onto the tubular arm—this prevents stitching the towel to itself and avoids hardware damage.
  • Slide the hoop onto the pantograph driver, then immediately reach under the hoop area with your hand.
  • Feel for only smooth metal; remove and re-position the towel if any lump, fold, or drag is felt.
  • Let the heavy towel hang freely so the weight does not pull fabric into the machine gap.
  • Success check: The underside feels flat and uninterrupted, and the towel is not snagged on the table/chair.
  • If it still fails… Re-hoop with more controlled slack management and consider a magnetic hoop if thickness makes standard hoops unstable.
• Q: How do I know a towel is hooped correctly for terry cloth embroidery when using a standard plastic hoop (to avoid hoop burn and shifting)?
  A: Hoop the towel “taut like a drum skin” without crushing the pile—over-tightening causes hoop burn, under-tightening causes drift.
  • Press the fabric evenly into the hoop and confirm the inner ring has not popped out at the corners.
  • Add stabilizer correctly (bottom backing plus topper) so you don’t compensate by over-tightening the hoop.
  • Manage the towel’s weight so it hangs freely and does not tug the hooped area during stitching.
  • Success check: The towel surface is flat and stable, the pile is not visibly crushed in a ring after unhooping, and the design does not wander.
  • If it still fails… Upgrade the holding method; magnetic hoops often reduce hoop burn and improve grip on bulky towels.
• Q: How do I change thread fast on a Ricoma multi-needle machine using the Tie-On method without damaging tension discs?
  A: Tie on, then pull from the needle—but stop immediately if the knot snags to avoid scratching tension components.
  • Cut the old thread at the spool, tie the new thread to the old tail with a small tight knot (often a square knot).
  • Pull the thread through from the needle eye so it travels through guides and tension discs.
  • Stop and manually re-thread that section if the knot hits a hard stop; do not force it.
  • Success check: The thread pulls through with a smooth, consistent drag (similar to pulling dental floss), with no sudden “snap” or jam.
  • If it still fails… Snip the knot and thread the machine normally for that needle path.
• Q: How do I center a towel monogram on a Ricoma 10S to avoid parallax error when using Needle 1 as a pointer?
  A: Always align using the same needle you will reference on-screen—select Needle 1 and position the needle tip over a physical crosshair.
  • Mark the towel with a crosshair (water-soluble pen) or use a placement template.
  • Select Needle 1 on the Ricoma 10S, then jog the pantograph until Needle 1 hovers over the mark.
  • Confirm by lowering the needle tip to touch the exact center of the crosshair (use a safe manual method per the machine’s controls).
  • Success check: The needle tip lands on the crosshair center, not “near it” from an angle.
  • If it still fails… Re-check that the correct needle is selected and do not rely on an uncalibrated laser for final alignment.
• Q: How do I use the Ricoma 10S Trace Design function to prevent presser-foot-to-hoop collisions when embroidering thick towels?
  A: Trace after every placement change (and after any rotation) and watch clearance closely because towel thickness reduces working space.
  • Run Trace → Trace Design to move the hoop around the design boundary without stitching.
  • Watch for the presser foot getting within about 5 mm of the hoop wall and for any clip interference.
  • Give extra margin on towels because the embroidery surface sits higher than on flat garments.
  • Success check: The full trace completes with consistent safe clearance and no point where the foot/needle area looks “tight.”
  • If it still fails… Reduce design size, reposition the design, or switch to a hoop/clamping method that gives safer clearance.
• Q: Why does towel embroidery look sunken or jagged on terry cloth, and what stabilizer “sandwich” should be used with water-soluble topper?
  A: Use a water-soluble topper on top of terry cloth to keep stitches from sinking into loops, then match the bottom stabilizer to the towel type.
  • Float water-soluble topper on top before stitching to create a temporary surface for clean satin/monogram edges.
  • Choose backing based on towel type: plush/high-pile often needs heavier support (two layers tear-away or cut-away if stretch exists); low pile often needs one layer tear-away; stretchy microfiber often needs fusible cut-away.
  • Use a light mist of temporary spray adhesive on the backing if the towel creeps during stitching.
  • Success check: Stitches sit on top of the pile clearly, with crisp edges and minimal loop pull-through.
  • If it still fails… Ask the digitizer to adjust for terry cloth (underlay and pull compensation) and slow the stitch speed to reduce shifting.
• Q: What safety steps should be followed around the needle bar on a Ricoma-style multi-needle embroidery machine, and what is the pinch risk with magnetic embroidery hoops?
  A: Treat the needle area and magnetic hoops as pinch-and-puncture hazards—keep hands clear and plan access moves before reaching in.
  • Keep fingers, snips, and loose clothing away from the needle bar area; multi-needle heads do not stop because a hand is nearby.
  • Use the Hoop Out function to bring the frame forward for trimming or placing topper instead of reaching deep into the machine cavity.
  • Handle magnetic hoops carefully because magnets can snap together suddenly; keep fingertips out of the closing path.
  • Success check: Thread trims and topper placement are done with the hoop in a forward access position, and hands never enter the needle strike zone.
  • If it still fails… Pause and re-position for access; do not “squeeze in” around the needle bar, and consult the machine manual for safe intervention procedures.