Floriani FTCU Build 3670, Variable Bean Stitch, and a “Fancy Fill” Mask Panel That Actually Stitches Clean

If you’ve ever opened embroidery software, stared at a new feature, and thought, “If I touch one wrong setting, I’ll waste an hour and a yard of fabric,” you’re in the right place. That paralyzing feeling is normal—embroidery is high-stakes because it involves physical materials, not just pixels.

Jeff’s May 2020 Floriani Software Club session is a solid intermediate lesson: update Floriani, then digitize a “fancy fill” mask panel using the new Variable Bean Stitch in Build 3670. But watching a video is different from running a machine. I’m going to rebuild this lesson into a production-grade workflow you can repeat—clean steps, sensory checkpoints, and the little “shop-floor” details that keep your stitch-out from turning into a puckered, heavy, uncomfortable mess.

Get Current on Floriani Build 3670 Before You Blame Your Design (RNK Software Club Updates Tab)

Jeff starts where experienced stitchers always start: confirm you’re on the right build before troubleshooting anything else. Software mismatches are the silent killers of productivity.

1. Log into the Floriani Software Club pop-up.
2. Go to the Updates tab.
3. Choose Floriani Embroidery Software (this is where FTCU and Fusion updates live).
4. Visual Check: Look continuously for the version number. Check whether you’re already on Build 3670. If not, download the latest version and follow the on-screen instructions.

This matters because the Variable Bean tool he demonstrates is tied to that specific build—if you’re behind, you’ll waste precious time hunting for menus that simply won’t exist.

Pro tip from the “I’ve been burned before” department: Jeff points out that Trevor Conquergood’s update videos on the same page are short (often just a few minutes). When you’re returning to software after a break, those quick clips save more time than any forum thread.

Stop Fighting the Grid: Switch FTCU Rulers to Inches So 9" x 7.5" Is Truly 9" x 7.5"

Once you’re in FTCU with a blank workspace, Jeff builds the mask panel around a specific finished size: 9" wide x 7.5" high.

If you work in the U.S. and you’re drafting mask panels, inches reduce cognitive load. You don't want to be doing mental division by 25.4 while trying to design.

• Right-click the top ruler bar.
• Select Inches.

You’ll see the ruler scale change (Jeff notes it becomes easier to read the 0–9 span across the top).

Checkpoint (Expected outcome): Your ruler now reads in inches. When you look at the top bar, the numbers should be small integers (1, 2, 3...), not large hundreds. This visual confirmation ensures your scale is correct before you lay down a single stitch.

The 9" x 7.5" Rectangle: One Transform Setting That Quietly Ruins Mask Sizing

Jeff draws a rectangle “any size” first, then uses Transform to make it exact. This is safer than trying to drag-and-drop to perfect dimensions.

1. Choose Shapes → Rectangle and draw a rough rectangle.
2. Switch back to the Select tool (the red arrow) so the rectangle is active.
3. Open Transform (the icon with arrows pointing in multiple directions).
4. Make sure you’re working in inches.
5. Critical Step: Uncheck “Maintain aspect ratio.” If you skip this, changing the width will automatically warp your height to a random number.
6. Enter:
   • Width = 9.00
   • Height = 7.50
7. Click Apply.

Watch out (common screen-layout trap): Jeff calls out that the Apply button can be hidden under the Sequence View panel on smaller screens. If you can’t find Apply, drag the Sequence View down until the buttons are visible.

Checkpoint (Expected outcome): Your rectangle snaps to a true 9" x 7.5" footprint. Visually verify this against the ruler one last time. It should not look "close enough"—it must be exact.

Warning: Keep fingers clear of moving needles and never reach into the stitch area while the machine is running. When you test a dense fill like the one we are creating, slow your machine speed down (500-600 SPM). Needle breaks from density can send metal fragments flying—always wear eye protection.

Auto Applique Motif Border (Pattern 211, 7 mm, Inset 100%): The Clean Edge Trick That Keeps You Inside the Hoop

Jeff’s next move is smart: he turns the outer rectangle into an Auto Applique so the file includes a placement stitch, tack-down, and a finished border.

1. With the 9" x 7.5" rectangle selected, click the Applique icon (Jeff describes it as a green “bush” tool).
2. In Properties, change the applique type from Satin to Motif.
3. Choose Motif pattern 211.
4. Set motif width to 7.0 mm (Jeff notes this is close to 1/4").
5. Set Inset = 100%.

Why the 100% Inset matters: This is one of those “quiet” settings that saves a project. Jeff explains that if you used 50/50 inset, part of the border would sit outside your 9" x 7.5" boundary. By setting it to 100%, you force the stitches inward.

If you’re planning to stitch in a standard hoop size (like a 200x300mm), or you’re trying to maximize how many panels you can run per hooping, staying inside the boundary is everything.

One more optional visual step Jeff shows: you can assign a fabric look to the inside by clicking the three dots next to Fabric and selecting a fabric chip (he also mentions importing a JPEG fabric chip into your library).

Checkpoint (Expected outcome): You now have an applique workflow: placement line, tack-down, and a decorative motif border. Visually confirm that the entire motif sits inside the selection box handles.

Variable Bean Stitch Fill in FTCU (Motif Fill 242, Size 20 mm, Stitch Length 3.5 mm, Bean Repeats 9)

Here’s the core of the tutorial—and the danger zone. Jeff adds a second, inner rectangle so he can apply a Motif Fill.

1. Draw a new rectangle inside the border (Jeff drags from the upper-left corner to the lower-right corner of the inside area).
2. Switch back to Select (red arrow) so the inner rectangle is active.
3. Apply Motif Fill.
4. Choose Pattern 242.
5. Set Pattern Size = 20 mm.
6. Set Stitch Length = 3.5 mm.
7. Click Apply.
8. Now enable the new bean option:
   • Under Bean style/type, change from None to Bean
   • Set Repeats = 9
   • Click Apply

Jeff also gives a critical limitation: the bean fill works on Motif and Mesh fills, but not on standard fills or fancy fills.

The "Sensory" Reality of 9 Repeats: I’ve been in production rooms for two decades, and "9 repeats" is heavy. Listen closely when you test this. A standard running stitch sounds like a hum; a 9-pass bean stitch sounds like a rhythmic thump-thump-thump. It puts significant drag on the thread and stress on the fabric.

A practical note: if you can’t see the design well in the workspace, Jeff’s favorite “fit to screen” move is to double left-click the magnifying glass.

The “Why” Behind the Bean Look (So You Don’t Overbuild It)

A Variable Bean Stitch thickens each motif line by repeating it nine times. That’s what creates the bold, textured look—but it also increases:

• Actual stitch count (dramatically).
• Needle penetrations (risk of cutting fabric).
• Friction and heat on the thread.
• The chance of "push/pull" distortion on soft cotton.

Treat “Repeats = 9” as a deliberate style choice, not a default. It can be gorgeous, but it demands better stabilization and cleaner hooping than a light running stitch.

If you are using a magnetic embroidery hoop, the even clamping pressure across the entire perimeter can help keep a flat panel stable during a heavy decorative fill like this. Unlike traditional hoops that only pull from the edges, magnetic systems sandwich the material firmly, reducing the "flagging" (bouncing) of fabric that causes skipped stitches in dense fills.

The “Hidden” Prep Jeff Implies: Stabilizer, Fabric Margin, and a Sample-First Mindset

Jeff’s stitch-out plan is simple and realistic for mask panels: Loop Polymesh, stitch placement, tack down fabric, trim margins, finish.

That’s the video method. Here’s the "Shop Floor" checklist experienced operators add before they ever press Start to ensure safety and quality.

Checkbox 1: The Pre-Flight Prep

• Software Version: Confirm you are on Floriani Build 3670 (Variable Bean won't work otherwise).
• Consumables Check: Ensure you have Temporary Spray Adhesive (like 505) if floating fabric, and a fresh Topstitch needle (size 90/14 recommended) to handle the thick bean thread pass.
• Margin Safety: Pre-cut fabric with at least 1.5" margin beyond the placement line. Beginners often cut too close; fabric attracts shrinkage, and a 1" margin can vanish under a dense fill.
• The Book: Keep a small notebook. Write down: Pattern 242, 20mm, 3.5mm len, 9 repeats. When you stitch this again in six months, you won't remember these numbers.

Stabilizer Decision Tree for a Dense Mask Fill (Polymesh vs Cutaway vs Ultra Dream Weave + Wash-Away)

Jeff gives three finishing paths. Don't guess. Use this logic flow to make the right choice for your specific project.

Decision Tree (fabric feel + stitch density → stabilizer plan):

1. Do you want the back of the mask to feel soft against the skin (Comfort Priority)?
   • YES: Go to Step 2.
   • NO (Display piece / structured fit): Go to Step 3.
2. Are you okay with adding an iron-on layer?
   • YES: Iron on Ultra Dream Weave to the back of your fabric. Then hoop Wash-Away Stabilizer. After stitching, the wash-away vanishes, leaving only the soft Dream Weave. (This is Jeff’s comfort option).
   • NO: Use Polymesh (Nylon Mesh). It is soft but permanent. Trim carefully close to the stitching.
3. Is the fabric unstable/stretchy, or do you want maximum durability?
   • YES: Use a Standard Cutaway Stabilizer (2.5 - 3.0 oz). This provides the "construction foundation" needed for a 9-repeat bean stitch but will be stiffer on the face.
   • NO: If the fabric is canvas or denim, you might get away with Tear-away, but for a bean stitch, I strongly recommend sticking to Cutaway or Polymesh.

If you’re building a small production workflow, using magnetic embroidery hoops can reduce hooping time and help you keep consistent tension from panel to panel—consistency is what makes “batch sewing” profitable.

Warning: Magnetic hoops are powerful industrial tools. Keep them away from pacemakers and implanted medical devices. Do not let your fingers get pinched between the top and bottom rings—the snap is instantaneous and forceful. Store magnets away from phones, credit cards, and small tools.

Hooping and Tension Reality: Why Dense Motif Beans Pucker Cotton (and How to Prevent It)

Jeff doesn’t do a deep hooping lecture in this video, but the design he builds makes hooping physics unavoidable.

Generally, puckering comes from a mismatch between stitch density (High), fabric stability (Medium/Low), and hoop tension.

The Tactile Test: When you hoop your stabilizer, tap it. It should sound like a drum skin—tight and resonant. However, do not stretch the fabric itself like a drum. Fabric needs to be neutral. If you stretch the fabric when hooping, it will snap back (rebound) after you unhoop, creating wrinkles around your beautiful bean stitches.

Practical solutions for flat panels:

1. Hoop the stabilizer "drum tight."
2. Use a light mist of temporary spray adhesive on the stabilizer.
3. Float the pre-cut fabric on top. Smooth it gently with your hands—do not pull it.
4. Let the placement line and tack-down stitch do the holding.

If you’re currently fighting hoop burn marks (ring marks that won't iron out) or struggling with wrist pain from manual hooping, a magnetic hoop is often the first upgrade I recommend. Because it holds vertically rather than relying on friction/stretching, it minimizes "hoop burn" on delicate cottons and speeds up the loading process significantly.

Assembly Numbers That Save You a Second Measuring Session (Pleats, Elastic, Nose Wire Pocket)

Jeff finishes with practical assembly dimensions so you don't have to guess during sewing:

• Pleating: Fold the stitched panel down from 7.5" height to a finished height of about 3"–3.5".
• Elastic: Use ear loops about 6.5"–7" on each side.
• The "Secret" Margin: Leave an extra 1/2" to 3/4" fabric margin at the top edge specifically to roll backward and stitch a channel for a nose wire.

The "Hidden" Time Cost: One viewer asked: “How long did it take from start to finish?” Jeff doesn’t give a specific number, but in real shops, the "time" isn't the stitching—it's the prep. If you are doing this as a one-off, expect 45 minutes of testing and tweaking. If you are batching, the bottleneck is hooping.

If you’re setting up for repeat runs, a hooping station for machine embroidery can be the difference between “I made two masks” and “I can make twenty without hating my life.” These stations hold the hoop while you align the fabric, ensuring every mask is straight without measuring each one individually.

Checklist 2: The Setup (Verification before Stitching)

• Design Boundary: Confirm the total design size is 9" x 7.5".
• Border Containment: Verify the border Motif (Pattern 211) is set to Inset 100%.
• Fill Specs: Check Fill settings: Motif 242, 20 mm, 3.5 mm, Bean repeats 9.
• Bobbin Check: Ensure you have a full bobbin. A dense bean fill eats bobbin thread faster than standard satin stitches.
• Needle Check: Is the needle sharp? A burred needle combined with 9 passes will shred your thread instantly.

When Something Looks “Off,” Don’t Panic—Use These Fast Fixes (Apply Button, Aspect Ratio, Fit to Screen)

Jeff includes three simple troubleshooting concepts worth bookmarking.

Symptom 1: You can’t find the Apply button.

• Likely cause: Sequence View is covering the bottom of the panel.

Symptom 2: Changing width also changes height weirdly.

• Likely cause: "Maintain aspect ratio" is checked.

Symptom 3: The design looks cut off or tiny.

• Likely cause: Zoom level is off.

Checklist 3: Operation (The "Sample Sew")

• The Audio Check: Start the machine. Listen for a sharp click-click sound (good penetration) versus a thud-thud (dull needle/too dense).
• The Border Inspection: Watch the border stitch out. It should sit cleanly inside your fabric edge.
• The Texture Check: Inspect the bean fill. It should look bold and raised, not "ropey" or loose.
• The Flatness Test: Unhoop the sample. Does it lay flat on the table? If it curls like a potato chip, your stabilizer was too light or your hooping was too tight.
• Only after the sample passes: Cut your expensive fashion fabric and run production.

The Upgrade Path: When a Mask Panel Becomes a Repeatable Product (and What Tools Actually Move the Needle)

Once you’ve proven the file, the challenge shifts from "designing" to "manufacturing." The bottleneck becomes handling: hooping, alignment, and consistency.

• Level 1 (Hobbyist): A standard hoop is fine for occasional gifts. Focus on technique.
• Level 2 (Small Biz/Etsy): If you’re doing repeated flat panels (masks, patches, small blanks), magnetic hoops for embroidery machines speed up loading and reduce the physical strain on your wrists. They also reduce the "rejection rate" caused by hoop burn.
• Level 3 (Volume Production): If your hands are cramping from repetitive alignment, hooping stations improve ergonomics and guarantee placement accuracy.

And finally, if you find yourself turning away orders because your single-needle machine is too slow (changing threads manually for every color or waiting on a single head), that is the trigger for a hardware upgrade. A reliable multi-needle platform (like our SEWTECH multi-needle embroidery machines) creates the scale necessary for profit—because the real money is in consistent, unattended output, not in hovering over a single needle machine.

Share what fabric you’re using and your stabilizer choice in the comments—I’d love to help you refine your stack before you burn through your test material

FAQ

• Q: Why is the Variable Bean Stitch option missing in Floriani Embroidery Software Build 3670 (Floriani Software Club → Updates tab)?
  A: The Variable Bean Stitch feature is tied to Floriani Build 3670, so update the software first before troubleshooting the design.
  • Open the Floriani Software Club pop-up and go to the Updates tab.
  • Select Floriani Embroidery Software and verify the build number shows 3670.
  • Download and install the latest build if you are not on 3670.
  • Success check: The Bean option appears when editing a Motif Fill or Mesh Fill (not a standard fill).
  • If it still fails: Confirm the fill type is Motif/Mesh and re-open the design after the update.
• Q: How do I set FTCU rulers to inches so a 9" x 7.5" mask panel is truly 9" x 7.5" in Floriani FTCU?
  A: Switch the FTCU ruler unit to inches before entering any dimensions.
  • Right-click the top ruler bar and select Inches.
  • Re-check the workspace scale before drawing or transforming shapes.
  • Success check: The top ruler shows small integers (1, 2, 3…) instead of large metric numbers.
  • If it still fails: Re-open the file/workspace and confirm the unit setting did not revert.
• Q: Why does the Floriani FTCU rectangle height change when I enter Width 9.00 and Height 7.50 in Transform (Maintain aspect ratio issue)?
  A: Uncheck Maintain aspect ratio in Transform so width and height can be set independently.
  • Select the rectangle with the red arrow (Select tool).
  • Open Transform and uncheck Maintain aspect ratio.
  • Enter Width = 9.00 and Height = 7.50, then click Apply.
  • Success check: The rectangle snaps to an exact 9" x 7.5" footprint when compared to the ruler.
  • If it still fails: Make sure you are working in inches and the correct object is selected (selection handles visible).
• Q: Where is the Apply button in Floriani FTCU Transform/Properties when the Sequence View panel hides it?
  A: Move the Sequence View panel so the bottom buttons (including Apply) become visible.
  • Drag the Sequence View panel downward to uncover the hidden area.
  • Resize the software window if needed to create more vertical space.
  • Click Apply after entering settings (dimensions, motif parameters, bean repeats).
  • Success check: After clicking Apply, the object visibly updates (size, border, or fill changes immediately).
  • If it still fails: Collapse or reposition panels and try again—this is a common small-screen layout trap.
• Q: How do I keep Floriani Auto Applique Motif Border Pattern 211 (7 mm) inside a 9" x 7.5" boundary for a 200x300mm hoop?
  A: Set Inset = 100% so the motif border stitches inward instead of straddling the boundary.
  • Select the 9" x 7.5" rectangle and click the Applique tool.
  • Change applique type from Satin to Motif, choose Motif pattern 211, set 7.0 mm width.
  • Set Inset = 100% and apply the change.
  • Success check: The entire motif border sits inside the selection box handles (nothing crosses outside the rectangle boundary).
  • If it still fails: Re-check that the correct outer rectangle is selected (not the inner fill rectangle).
• Q: What stabilizer stack should I use for a dense Floriani Motif Fill Pattern 242 with Variable Bean Stitch (Size 20 mm, Stitch Length 3.5 mm, Bean Repeats 9) on cotton mask panels?
  A: Match stabilizer to comfort and durability—Bean Repeats 9 is heavy, so don’t guess.
  • Choose Ultra Dream Weave (iron-on) + Wash-Away if comfort against skin is the priority and you accept an iron-on layer.
  • Choose Polymesh (nylon mesh) if you want soft feel with a permanent stabilizer you can trim close.
  • Choose Standard Cutaway (2.5–3.0 oz) if fabric is unstable/stretchy or you want maximum durability for the dense bean fill.
  • Success check: After unhooping the sample, the panel lays flat on the table instead of curling.
  • If it still fails: Run a sample first and upgrade stabilization (often moving from lighter support to Polymesh/Cutaway fixes curling and puckering).
• Q: What safety steps should I follow when test-stitching dense Variable Bean Stitch fills at 9 repeats (needle-break risk at 500–600 SPM)?
  A: Treat dense bean fills as a higher-risk test: slow down and protect yourself from needle-break fragments.
  • Reduce machine speed to 500–600 SPM for the test run.
  • Keep hands out of the stitch area and never reach in while the machine is running.
  • Wear eye protection during dense-fill testing.
  • Success check: The machine runs without sharp impact events, and you do not see repeated needle strikes or sudden thread shredding.
  • If it still fails: Stop immediately, check for a dull/burred needle and confirm you are not over-stressing fabric with insufficient stabilization.