Simple Sashing for Quilt As You Go Blocks: The Clean, No-Hand-Sew Finish That Stops Gaps, Trenches, and Twisted Rows

Quilt As You Go (QAYG) is supposed to feel freeing—smaller pieces, less wrestling, and finally saying goodbye to shoving a queen-size quilt sandwich through a domestic machine throat. But in my 20 years of teaching, I’ve watched plenty of confident stitchers freeze right at the joining stage. Why? Because the fear of ruining perfectly embroidered blocks with one bad seam is paralyzing.

If you’ve ever thought, "This looks like it would be easier to mess up and take longer," you’re not wrong—until you adopt a joining method that is repeatable, measurable, and mechanically sound.

Martyn Smith’s "Simple Sashing" is the industry standard for a reason: it involves a front sashing strip that joins two pre-quilted blocks cleanly, plus a folded back strip that hides the raw edges and gets secured from the front with a "stitch-in-the-ditch" technique. It isn't magic; it's engineering.

The Calm-Down Truth About QAYG Simple Sashing: It’s Not Hard—It’s Just Unforgiving of Sloppy Measuring

The reason this method triggers anxiety in beginners is that it relies on geometry + consistency. Unlike traditional piecing where you can sometimes steam-press an error into submission, QAYG blocks have stabilizer and batting structure—they are stubborn. When your strips match your block length and your seam allowance stays consistent, the quilt stays square, and the joins look professional.

As your Education Officer, I need you to visualize this: You are not just sewing cloth; you are assembling rigid panels.

The good news: The protocol below gives you a built-in safety net. We will check the front after the first seam to confirm no stitching shows. That one visual confirmation prevents the heartbreak of unpicking hours of work.

Speed comes from "batching": cut accurately, press consistently, and repeat the same seam path using the block’s perimeter line as your guide. Do not rush the machine; let the feed dogs do the work.

The “Hidden” Prep That Makes Simple Sashing Look Expensive (Not Homemade)

Before you sit at the machine, we must set up the environment. Most failures happen at the cutting mat, not under the needle.

What you’re working with (The Physical Components)

• Pre-embroidered / pre-quilted QAYG blocks: These must be squared up.
• Sewing Machine: Fitted with a Walking Foot (Even Feed Foot). Expert Note: A standard foot will push the top layer faster than the bottom, causing ripples. A Walking Foot is non-negotiable for professional results.
• Machine Speed: Set to medium (approx. 400-600 SPM). This is a precision task, not a race.
• Pins: Fine, flat-head pins (like the orange-head ones shown) that don't distort fabric.
• Thread: 60wt polyester or monofilament. White is used for the demo, but invisibility is the goal.
• Hidden Consumables: A water-soluble glue stick or basting tape (1/4") is the secret weapon for holding that back strip in place without pin-pricks.

The measurements people kept asking for (Data Validity)

This is the part that trips up even experienced quilters when they are new to In-The-Hoop (ITH) blocks.

• Block seam allowance: 1/2" (12mm) left around the block after trimming. This creates the structural "lip."
• Front sashing strip cut width: 2 1/4" (finishes at 1").
• Back sashing strip cut width: 3 1/2". Expert Adjustment: Increase to 3 3/4" if using high-loft batting to give yourself a larger "catch zone."
• Back folded edge overlap: Exactly 1/8" (3 mm) past the stitch line. This is your target for the stitch-in-the-ditch.

Why leaving batting in the seam allowance matters (the “loft insurance”)

Martyn leaves the batting in the seam allowance on purpose. That batting thickness supports the join so you don’t get a visible "trench" or structural collapse in the sashing once the quilt is washed.

Sensory Check: Run your finger over a sample join. Does it dip down? If yes, you've removed too much batting. The sashing should feel as lofty and springy as the block itself.

Warning: Mechanical Safety. Keep fingers well clear of the needle when you’re "feeling for the ridge" under the ditch. If you need to check position, take your foot off the pedal entirely. Never chase the ridge while the machine is moving—needle-through-finger injuries are the most common trauma in our industry.

Prep Checklist (Do NOT skip)

• Squaring: Confirm every block is trimmed to the exact same size with 1/2" seam allowance beyond the perimeter stitch line.
• Front Strips: Cut 2 1/4" wide, exactly the length of the block.
• Back Strips: Cut 3 1/2" wide (or 3 3/4" for safety), exactly the length of the block.
• Creasing: Pessing the back strip widthways to create a razor-sharp fold line. This fold is your guide.
• Needle: Install a fresh Topstitch 90/14 or Universal 80/12 needle to penetrate the multiple layers without deflection.
• Loft: Batting remains in the seam allowance.

Needle Position + Perimeter Line: The Brother VQ3000 “Cheat Code” That Hides Your Seam

Martyn flips the work and stitches from the back, using the block’s existing perimeter line as a guide. This is brilliant because it eliminates guessing.

The key setting is mechanical precision:

• Needle position: Adjusted just to the left of the perimeter line (inside the seam allowance).

Why? Thread has volume. If you stitch exactly on the line, the fold of the fabric might reveal the original basting stitches. Moving 1mm to the left buries the evidence.

If you are the type who likes repeatability, this is where a consistent hooping workflow pays off earlier in the project. If your embroidery blocks were hooped crookedly, your perimeter lines will face crookedly, and your sashing will twist. Many industrial studios use hooping stations to standardize alignment before the embroidery machine even starts. If your blocks aren't square to begin with, no amount of sashing skill will fix them.

Attach the Front Sashing Strip to Block #1 (and Prove to Yourself It’s Clean)

This is Step 1, and it is where you earn your confidence.

1. Alignment: Place the front sashing strip on Block #1 right sides together. Align the raw edges perfectly.
2. The Flip: Flip the work over (batting side up). You can now see the perimeter stitching line from your ITH block.
3. The Stitch: Sew along that line, keeping the needle just to the left (towards the block center).
4. The Check: Open the strip and press it away with your fingers.
5. Visual Verification: Look at the front. Do you see the basting stitches?
   • No? Perfect. Proceed.
   • Yes? You stitched too far to the right. Unpick and adjust needle position left.

Expected Outcome: The sashing flips open and lies flat tension, like a page in a new book. The join feels solid, not loose.

Join Block #2 Without Warping: Pin Like You Mean It, Then Back-Tack

Now you attach the second block to the free edge of the front sashing. Gravity is your enemy here; heavy blocks will try to pull apart.

1. Sandwich: Place Block #2 face down on the sashing strip (right sides together). Align raw edges.
2. Pinning: Pin securely at the top, bottom, and center.
   • Tactile Tip: When pinning, ensure the bulk of the blocks are pushing against each other snuggly. There should be no gap.
3. Stitch: Flip and sew from the back, using the perimeter line guide again.
4. Lock: Back-tack securely at the start and end. These seams undergo stress during the final quilt roll.

Expected Outcome: When opened, the two blocks are joined with a crisp white sashing strip. If you pull them gently, the sashing stays taut—no rippling.

Why “exact strip length” is non-negotiable

Martyn highlights that vertical seams (sashing) must be the exact length of the block. If your sashing strip is even 1/2" longer than the block, the feed dogs will create a "wave" or "vertical ripple" in the sashing.

• Rule of Thumb: Feed the block and sashing evenly. If the sashing looks loose, use the Walking Foot to manage the feed.

Back Sashing Strip Setup: The Fold, the Raw Edge, and the 3 mm “Catch Zone”

This is the technical crux of the method. We are setting a trap for the needle to catch later.

1. Placement: On the back of the generic joined blocks, take your pre-folded back strip.
2. Alignment: Align the raw edge of this strip with the raw edge of the seam allowance.
3. Secure: Stitch it into place using the same stitch line you just created.

NOW, fold the strip over the seam allowance to cover everything. Finger press it firmly.

The Critical Metric: The folded edge must extend approx. 1/8" (3 mm) past the stitching line on the block.

• Too short: The stitch-in-the-ditch won't catch it so you have a hole.
• Too long: The stitch will land on top of the fold rather than in the ditch, looking messy.

Warning: Magnet Safety Protocol. Many embroidery users utilize magnetic hoops to speed up the block creation phase. If you are upgrading to magnetic embroidery hoops for brother or similar industrial-grade tools, remember: these are not "fridge magnets." They are powerful neodymium tools. Keep them away from pacemakers, never leave them near the needle plate during sewing (they can disrupt computerized motors), and keep fingers clear of the snap zone. Treat them like power tools.

Setup Checklist (The "Pre-Flight" Check)

• Raw Edges: Back strip stitched with raw edges aligned to the seam allowance.
• The Fold: Strip folded over and finger pressed crisp.
• The Catch Zone: Folded edge extends 3 mm (1/8") past the visible stitch line.
• Security: Pins are placed perpendicular to the flow, OR a dab of glue stick is holding the fold down.
• Orientation: The bulk of the seam allowance is positioned to the left under the machine arm.

Stitch in the Ditch From the Front: The Fingernail “Ridge Test” That Saves Your Backside

This is Step 4. It requires "feeling" more than "seeing."

1. Setup: Return to the front of the quilt.
2. Target: You are aiming for the "ditch"—the precise groove between the white sashing and the colored block.
3. The Tactile Anchor: Before you press the pedal, run your fingernail along the ditch. You should feel a "ridge" or "bump" underneath. That ridge is the folded back strip.
   • If you feel the ridge: Sew. You will catch it.
   • If it feels flat: Stop. The back strip has shifted. Re-pin.
4. Action: Stitch slowly (400 SPM). Gently spread the fabric with your hands to open the ditch as the needle enters.

Expected Outcome: From the front, the stitches vanish into the shadow of the seam. From the back, the stitch line runs perfectly along the edge of the folded strip, sealing the raw edges inside.

Why monofilament thread is the pro choice

While Martyn uses white thread for visibility in the demo, industry pros often switch to Monofilament (invisible) thread for the top spool during this step. It creates a truly invisible join, forgiving slight deviations from the "ditch."

The “Why” Behind Simple Sashing: Loft, Control, and the Twisting Risk

Viewers often ask: "Why not sew the front and back strips at the same time?"

The answer is physics. Sewing four layers simultaneously on a long row introduces massive drag. The top layer feeds at a different rate than the bottom layer, resulting in a twisted sashing strip (helix effect). By stitching the back strip separately in two passes, you maintain tension control at every stage.

A practical scalability note (The "Commercial Upgrade")

If you are making one wall hanging, you can struggle through with pins. But if you are producing quilts for sale or tackling a King Size project, your bottleneck is Process Consistency.

Pain points in embroidery usually stem from the very beginning: the hooping.

• Hoop Burn: Traditional hoops leave marks that ruin delicate sashing.
• Pop-outs: Thick quilt sandwiches pop out of plastic hoops.

This is why serious enthusiasts eventually upgrade their toolkit. A hoop master embroidery hooping station ensures every block is embroidered in the exact same spot, creating perfectly square blocks that make sashing easy.

Furthermore, moving to a dedicated multi-needle machine (like a SEWTECH 15-needle) allows you to embroider blocks faster, while leaving your sewing machine free for the assembly/sashing phase—doubling your productivity.

Troubleshooting QAYG Simple Sashing: Symptoms → Causes → Fixes

If something goes wrong, don't guess. Use this diagnostic table.

Decision Tree: Choose Batting + Backing Strategy

Use this logic flow to determine your cutting widths before you start.

Start Here: Squeeze your quilt block. What does it feel like?

• Scenario A: It feels firm and dense (Low-loft / Soft-and-Stable).
  • Action: Keep batting in seam allowance. Use standard 3 1/2" back strips.
• Scenario B: It feels puffy and thick (High-loft Poly batting).
  • Action: Keep batting in seam allowance but steam press the edges flat. Increase back strip width to 3 3/4" to accommodate the bulk so you don't struggle to catch the fold.
• Scenario C: Edges are floppy or thin.
  
  Warning

  Do NOT remove batting. You rely on that batting for the sashing to stand up straight. Stitch slightly closer to the block center to tighten the join.
• Scenario D: You are doing production runs (50+ blocks).
  • Action: Standardize inputs. Use embroidery hoops for brother machines (specifically magnetic ones) to ensure every block has identical tension and size, minimizing trimming errors later.

The Upgrade Path: When to Buy Tools vs. When to Practice

We often try to buy our way out of frustration, but let's be strategic.

1. Level 1: Skill Gap. If your seams are crooked, you don't need a new machine—you need a Walking Foot and practice with the "Fingernail Ridge Test."
2. Level 2: Efficiency Gap. If you are spending more time hooping blocks than sewing them, or fighting "hoop burn" on velvet/delicate cottons, this is a tool problem. Professionals use magnetic hoop for brother (or your specific brand) to clamp thick quilt sandwiches instantly without hand strain or fabric damage.
3. Level 3: Production Gap. If you have orders waiting and you are bottlenecked by single-thread color changes on the embroidery phase, upgrading to a SEWTECH Multi-Needle ecosystem changes the game from "hobby" to "business."

Operation Checklist (Your Final Quality Control)

Before you declare a row finished, pass this 5-point inspection:

• Front Join: Clean. No basting stitches visible.
• Abutment: Blocks butt together tightly; no gap in the valley.
• The Catch: Check the back—ensure the stitch caught the fold along the entire length.
• Flatness: The join lies smooth with no vertical rippling.
• Feel: The sashing area feels as thick and padded as the blocks (no "empty" spots).

If you pass this check on the first pair, you have green light to finish the quilt. Proceed with confidence.

FAQ

• Q: When Quilt As You Go (QAYG) Simple Sashing shows visible perimeter/basting stitches on the quilt front, how should the sewing machine needle position be adjusted?
  A: Move the needle slightly left of the perimeter line (toward the block center) and re-sew that seam.
  • Flip to the back and stitch using the existing perimeter line as the guide, but keep the needle just inside the seam allowance.
  • Stop after the first seam, open the strip, and check the front immediately.
  • Success check: No perimeter/basting stitches are visible from the front once the sashing is pressed open.
  • If it still fails: Unpick and shift the needle a touch further left; do not stitch directly on the line.
• Q: What cutting measurements are required for QAYG Simple Sashing strips (front strip, back strip, and overlap) to reliably catch the back fold during stitch-in-the-ditch?
  A: Use the blog-proven measurements: front strip 2 1/4" wide, back strip 3 1/2" wide (3 3/4" for high-loft), and fold to a 1/8" (3 mm) overlap past the stitch line.
  • Cut front and back strips to the exact block length (not “close enough”).
  • Press a razor-sharp fold on the back strip before sewing to control placement.
  • Success check: From the back, the stitch line runs right along the folded strip edge with no missed sections.
  • If it still fails: Increase back strip width to 3 3/4" for more “catch zone” and secure the fold with glue stick or basting tape before stitching.
• Q: Why does QAYG Simple Sashing warp or bow when joining two pre-quilted blocks, and what is the fastest fix using a Walking Foot?
  A: Warping usually means the sashing strip length is not exactly the block length; recut to exact length and sew with a Walking Foot at a controlled speed.
  • Measure the trimmed blocks and cut each sashing strip to that exact measurement.
  • Pin top/bottom/center, then stitch from the back along the perimeter line guide.
  • Success check: The opened join lies flat with no “wave” or vertical rippling in the sashing.
  • If it still fails: Slow to a medium speed (about 400–600 SPM) and verify the Walking Foot is installed and feeding evenly.
• Q: In QAYG Simple Sashing, what causes a wide “trench,” dip, or gap in the sashing area after washing, and should batting be removed from the seam allowance?
  A: A trench effect usually comes from uneven strip widths or removing too much batting; keep batting in the seam allowance to preserve loft and structure.
  • Confirm the front strip is cut 2 1/4" wide and the back strip is cut consistently (3 1/2" or 3 3/4").
  • Leave batting in the seam allowance as “loft insurance,” especially at the join.
  • Success check: Run a finger across the join; the sashing should feel springy and not dip below the block surface.
  • If it still fails: Re-check trimming/squaring so every block has the same remaining 1/2" (12 mm) seam allowance around the perimeter line.
• Q: During QAYG stitch-in-the-ditch, how can a quilter prevent “missed back stitch” where the seam fails to catch the folded back strip?
  A: Ensure the folded back strip extends about 1/8" (3 mm) past the stitch line, then use the fingernail “ridge test” before sewing.
  • Re-fold and finger-press the back strip so the fold clearly overlaps the stitch line by ~3 mm.
  • Secure the fold with perpendicular pins or a dab of water-soluble glue stick/basting tape to prevent shifting.
  • Success check: You can feel a ridge under the ditch with a fingernail, and the back shows a continuous caught edge after sewing.
  • If it still fails: Stop and re-pin before stitching—do not try to “chase” the ridge while the machine is moving.
• Q: What needle, thread, and speed settings work best for QAYG Simple Sashing to reduce visible stitches and thread issues during stitch-in-the-ditch?
  A: Use a fresh Topstitch 90/14 or Universal 80/12 needle, sew at medium speed (about 400–600 SPM), and consider monofilament on top for near-invisible ditch stitching.
  • Install a new needle before joining to reduce deflection through multiple layers.
  • Switch the top thread to monofilament for the ditch seam when invisibility matters; white thread is fine for learning/visibility.
  • Success check: From the front, stitches disappear into the ditch shadow without popping onto the block or sashing.
  • If it still fails: Reduce top tension as a safe starting point when using monofilament (always confirm with the machine manual) and slow down further for control.
• Q: What are the key safety rules for preventing needle injuries when doing the QAYG stitch-in-the-ditch “fingernail ridge test” on a domestic sewing machine?
  A: Keep hands away from the needle and remove foot pressure completely before feeling for the ridge—never feel or reposition fabric while the machine is moving.
  • Stop sewing fully (foot off pedal) before checking the ditch/ridge alignment.
  • Spread fabric gently to open the ditch only when the needle area is controlled and your fingers are clear.
  • Success check: Stitching stays in the ditch without any last-second hand “nudges” near the needle.
  • If it still fails: Re-pin or glue-baste the fold so less hand guidance is needed at the needle zone.
• Q: When QAYG block production is slowed by hoop burn, pop-outs, or inconsistent block squareness, what is the practical upgrade path from technique fixes to magnetic hoops to a SEWTECH multi-needle machine?
  A: Use a staged approach: first standardize measuring and walking-foot technique, then upgrade to magnetic hoops for faster, gentler clamping, and consider a SEWTECH multi-needle when embroidery throughput becomes the bottleneck.
  • Level 1 (Technique): Square all blocks identically and verify seams by checking the front after the first sashing seam.
  • Level 2 (Tooling): If hooping causes fabric marks or thick sandwiches won’t stay seated, magnetic hoops often reduce handling time and clamp damage.
  • Level 3 (Capacity): If single-needle color changes are delaying orders, a multi-needle system can keep embroidery moving while the sewing machine stays available for assembly.
  • Success check: Blocks finish consistently square, sashing joins lie flat, and time spent hooping/redoing blocks drops noticeably.
  • If it still fails: Identify the bottleneck (hooping accuracy vs. joining accuracy vs. embroidery time) and upgrade only the step that is limiting output.