Melco DesignShop v11 Shop Talk, Rebuilt: Clean Lettering Edits, Diamond Appliqué Borders, and Headwear That Actually Stitches Out

If you’ve ever deleted a tiny part of lettering (like the dot on an “i”), felt proud for five seconds, and then watched it magically come back the moment you resized… you’re not crazy. That’s a normal behavior in DesignShop when you edit stitches on an object that still wants to “regenerate.”

As an embroidery professional, I know that specific feeling of "software betrayal." But embroidery is a dialogue between digital instructions and physical execution. This post rebuilds Samantha Marabal’s Q&A into a clean, repeatable workflow you can use in real production—especially if you’re digitizing for headwear and appliqué where small mistakes turn into expensive rework.

Don’t Panic: Why DesignShop Lettering “Regenerates” and Undoes Your Deletions

When you edit stitches on a lettering object using Expanded Point Editing, you’re essentially making a temporary stitch-level change on something that still behaves like “live lettering.” Think of a lettering object like a rubber band. You can stretch it or cut a notch in it, but the moment you resize it (pull it), it snaps back to its original calculation rules.

That’s not a bug; it’s the software protecting the font's integrity.

The Practical Takeaway:

• The "Band-Aid" Fix: If you need a quick one-off deletion for a single sew-out and you are 100% done editing size/density, Expanded Point Editing works.
• The "Surgery" Fix: If you need the deletion to stay deleted through future edits (like resizing for a toddler hat vs. an adult hat), you must perform a "Wireframe Conversion."

The “Santa Hat on the i” Problem: 3 Reliable Ways to Remove Stitches from Lettering in DesignShop v11

The video’s example is classic: removing the dot on the letter “i” so you can place a graphical element (like a Santa hat) on top. Here is how to handle this safely based on your production needs.

Method 1 — Expanded Point Editing (Fast, but temporary)

Use this only when the design is finalized and authorized for production.

Step-by-Step:

1. Select the lettering object.
2. Toggle on Expanded Point Editing.
3. Use Custom Point Selection to lasso the specific stitch points of the dot.
4. Press Enter, then press Delete.
5. Place your hat artwork over the gap.

Sensory Check: The dot stitches disappear immediately. The screen looks correct. The Risk: If you nudge the size by even 10%, DesignShop recalculates the letter "i" and puts the dot back.

Method 2 — Operations > Convert to Wireframe (Permanent)

This is the "Gold Standard" for production files. It freezes the text into shapes, removing the "live font" logic.

Step-by-Step:

1. Select the lettering object.
2. Navigate to Operations > Convert to Wireframe.
3. Locate the dot stitches and delete them.
4. Resize or adjust the design as needed.

Success Metric: You can resize the name from 3 inches to 5 inches, and the dot will not return. Trade-off: You can no longer fix a typo by typing. If the customer changes "Santa" to "Santy," you start over.

Method 3 — Wireframe Editing (Advanced Creative)

You can reshape the wireframe nodes to turn the dot into the hat brim. This is artistic but time-consuming. For high-volume production shops, we usually avoid this unless the design demands organic flow.

The “Hidden” Prep Before You Edit Anything: Save Yourself from Rework

In a busy shop, "undoing" work kills profit. Before destructive editing, run this mental pre-flight check.

Prep Checklist (The "Save Your Sanity" List):

• Spelling Verification: Has the customer signed off on the spelling in writing?
• File Versioning: Save a master file named ClientName_MASTER_Editable.ofa before converting to wireframe. Save the sew file separately.
• Resizing Plan: If this logo goes on both a chest pocket (3.5") and a hat (2.2"), convert to wireframe after sizing for each, or be prepared to delete the dot twice.
• Stitch ID: Zoom in to 600%. Identify exactly which stitches are the "dot" and which are the "stem." Don't guess.

Build a Decorative Diamond Appliqué Border in DesignShop (Without Ugly Corners)

Appliqué is high-margin work, but it requires covering the "raw edge" of the fabric. If your cover stitch is too narrow, the raw fabric whiskers poke through, looking amateurish.

1) Create base art for the appliqué shape

Samantha uses a large letter “U” from the Ashen font. In DesignShop, you can treat vector shapes and lettering objects similarly for this workflow.

2) Generate the placement stitch (Walk Normal)

This is your "roadmap" on the stabilizer.

• Action: Select shape → Hold SHIFT + Click Walk Stitch.
• Result: A single run stitch lines up exactly where the fabric goes.

3) Create the tackdown stitch (Secure the Fabric)

• Action: Copy placement stitch → Paste → Change Color → Change type to Bead Stitch (or generic Tackdown).
• Why Change Color? The machine must stop here. The color change forces the machine to trim and pause, allowing you to lay down the appliqué fabric (or cut it).

4) Apply the decorative border (The "Money" Stitch)

• Action: Copy outline → Paste → Change Color → Change type to Decorative.
• Select Pattern: Choose Diamond (or Herringbone) from the pattern library.

5) Critical Adjustment: Width and Density

A default decorative stitch might be only 30-40 points (3-4mm) wide. This is risky for hand-cut appliqué.

• Adjustment: Samantha suggests creating a "Safety Zone." Increase the Width/Size to 60 points (approx. 6mm).
• Why 6mm? If your hand-cutting with appliqué scissors is slightly imperfect (and it will be), a 6mm border hides the jagged edges completely.

Corner Distortion Fix: Decorative patterns often "bunch up" or twist at sharp 90-degree corners.

• Logic: This forces the pattern cycle to stop and restart fresh at the corner, creating a clean, professional mitered look rather than a messy knot.

Setup Checklist (Appliqué Quality Control):

• 3-Stop Logic: Verify file has Placement (Stop 1) → Tackdown (Stop 2) → Border (Stop 3).
• Width Safety: Is border width at least 4.5mm-6mm (45-60 points)?
• Corner Check: Are sharp corners split?
• Hoop Check: Appliqué requires cutting fabric inside the hoop. Does your hoop holding strength allow you to pull/cut fabric without the stabilizer slipping? (If not, magnetic hoops are the industry solution here).

Circle Monogram Trims Missing? The Tie In/Tie Out Fix

If your machine drags a long thread tail between the monogram and the ornament, it missed a trim command.

• Diagnosis: Old fonts sometimes lack automatic trim instructions.
• The Fix: Open Object Properties → Set Tie In / Tie Out to Always.

Bucket Hat Embroidery: How to Conquer the "Impossible" Hoop

Bucket hats are notorious for "Hoop Burn" (permanent ring marks) and slippery hooping because they have thick brims and awkward seams.

In the video, the user attempts to hoop a cotton bucket hat with a 4.25" hoop. Samantha advises that sewing over seams is fine, but flatness is king.

The "Flatness" Rule & The Tool Gap

"Flat" doesn't mean stretching the life out of the fabric.

• Visual Check: The fabric should look smooth, not warped.
• Tactile Check: It should feel taut like a bedsheet tucked in tight, but not like a trampoline about to burst.

The Trigger for Tool Upgrade: If you find yourself wrestling the thick brim of a bucket hat into a standard plastic double-ring hoop, you are risking two things:

1. Hoop Burn: The pressure required to hold the thick brim leaves a shiny, crushed circle on the cotton that steam won't fix.
2. Carpal Tunnel: The physical force required is unsustainable for production runs.

This is the specific scenario where professionals switch to magnetic embroidery hoops. A magnetic system (like the SEWTECH Magnetic Hoop series) clamps thick seams instantly without friction-locking the fabric fibers, eliminating hoop burn and saving your wrists.

Warning: Needle Deflection
When stitching over thick seams on bucket hats, the needle can hit the folded fabric and bend (deflect), striking the throat plate.
* Safety Action: Slow your machine straight down (600 SPM or lower) when approaching thick seams.
* Eye Protection: Always keep your face away from the needle path when sewing caps.

The "White on Dark" Cheat: Toppers

If sewing white tatami fill on a black bucket hat, the dark fabric often shows through the tiny gaps.

• Trick: Place a layer of water-soluble or tearaway stabilizer on top of the hat.
• Result: The white thread sits on the topper, not the dark fabric, creating a "snow white" brightness. Tear it away after the fill is done, before the border.

The Primer Stitch for Beanies: Essential for Knitwear

If you embroider satin lettering on a beanie and it looks "wavy" or sinks into the fuzz, you didn't provide a foundation. Knits stretch; satin stitches pull.

Samantha prescribes the Primer Stitch (often called a "structural underlay" or "fill foundation").

The Beanie Formula

1. Primer Type: Open weave fill (Cross-hatch).
2. Density: 50 points (approx. 0.5mm spacing). This is much more open than a standard fill.
3. Border Width: Expand this foundation 20-30 points beyond the lettering edge so the letters sit on the platform, not on the edge of it.

The Visual Trick: Sew the Primer Stitch in the Same Color as the Beanie.

• Why? It acts like a hidden sub-floor. If the beanie is navy, and text is gold, a navy primer stabilizes the knit without being visible.

The Stabilizer Reality Check

Samantha recommends Cutaway stabilizer for beanies.

• Beginner Trap: Beginners use Tearaway because it's easy to clean.
• Expert Reality: Tearaway dissolves the structural support. Once the beanie is worn (stretched), the stitches will pop. You must use Cutaway for knits if you want the embroidery to last longer than one week.

Production Tip: Hooping bulky knits with cutaway is another friction point. Upgrading to a magnetic hoop allows you to "sandwich" the thick knit and stabilizer without stretching the ribbing out of shape.

Decision Tree: Stabilizer & Tooling for Tricky Items

Use this logic flow to make quick decisions on the shop floor.

Q: What is the material behavior?

• A: Structured & Thick (e.g., Carhartt Jackets, Bucket Hats)
  • Risk: Hoop burn, thick seams.
  • Stabilizer: Cutaway (moderate/heavy).
  • Tool Upgrade: melco embroidery hoops (Magnetic style) to prevent crushing the fabric nap.
• B: Stretchy & Lofty (e.g., Beanies, Scarves)
  • Risk: Sinking stitches, distortion.
  • Stabilizer: Cutaway (Mandatory) + Solvy Topper (to keep stitches on top).
  • Digitizing: Add Primer Stitch (Density 50, Color Match).
  • Tool Upgrade: melco mighty hoops or equivalent SEWTECH Magnetic Hoops to hold the knit without over-stretching.
• C: High Pile (e.g., Faux Fur, Towels)
  • Risk: Stitches disappear.
  • Stabilizer: Cutaway (Back) + Water Soluble (Top).
  • Technique: Use a heavy Primer Stitch to mat down the fur before the logo sews.

Manual Digitizing Speed: The 3-Point Rhythm

Digitizing is about muscle memory. Samantha’s core rule for the Input tool is simple:

• Left Click = Straight Line / Sharp Corner.
• Right Click = Curve / Flow.

The "1-2-3" Curve Method

To make a perfect curve without "lumpy" edges:

1. Left Click (Start Anchor).
2. Right Click (Midpoint of curve).
3. Left Click (End Anchor).

Why fewer clicks? Every node (click) is a coordinate the machine must calculate. Hundreds of nodes = jerky machine movement. Fewer nodes = smooth, fluid needle movement (Gliding). It sounds better and sews cleaner.

• Oops Button: If you misplace a point, do not panic. Hit Backspace to step back one node. Do not hit Escape (which kills the whole object).

The Production Quality Ladder

Embroidery is a journey from "making it work" to "making it profitable."

1. Level 1: Technique. (What this guide covered). Learning Primer Stitches, Wireframe conversions, and stabilizer choices.
2. Level 2: Tooling. Moving from plastic rings to magnetic embroidery hoop systems. This isn’t just about ease; it’s about consistency. If your hoop tension varies, your sew-out varies. Magnets deliver consistent tension every time.
3. Level 3: Capacity. When a single-needle machine becomes the bottleneck for your beanie orders, specific multi-needle machines (like those from SEWTECH) provide the color durability and speed needed for bulk hat runs.

Summary: Quick "Watch Out" Notes (Pre-Flight Checks)

• DesignShop: Expanded Point Editing is temporary; Wireframe is forever. Choose wisely.
• Appliqué: Standard stitch widths (3mm) will fail. Bump borders to 6mm (60 pts) to hide hand-cutting errors.
• Geometry: Always split elements at sharp corners on decorative borders.
• Hats: If you are fighting the hoop, you are losing money. Magnetic hoops are the standard for thick headwear.
• Safety: hooping station setups can assist, but always watch your fingers around powerful magnets.

Warning: Magnetic Safety
Magnetic hoops use strong industrial neodymium magnets.
* Pinch Hazard: They can snap together with crushing force. Keep fingers clear of the contact zone.
* Medical: Keep away from pacemakers.
* Tech: Keep away from magnetic stripe cards and phones.

Mastering these manual edits and physical setups is what separates a hobbyist from a production manager. Good luck with those bucket hats!

FAQ

• Q: Why does DesignShop v11 lettering bring back deleted stitches after resizing when using Expanded Point Editing?
  A: This is normal—Expanded Point Editing is a temporary stitch-level change on “live lettering,” so resizing regenerates the font and restores stitches.
  • Convert: Finish sizing first if possible, then decide whether the edit must survive future resizing.
  • Use: Choose Operations > Convert to Wireframe when the deletion must stay deleted.
  • Save: Keep an editable master file before destructive edits (example: ClientName_MASTER_Editable.ofa).
  • Success check: Resize the design (for example, 3" to 5") and confirm the deleted dot does not return.
  • If it still fails… Confirm the object was actually converted to wireframe (not just edited points) before deleting stitches.
• Q: How do I permanently remove the dot on the letter “i” in DesignShop v11 so a graphic (like a Santa hat) can sit on top?
  A: Convert the lettering to wireframe first, then delete the dot stitches so the change survives resizing.
  • Select: Click the lettering object (not individual stitches).
  • Convert: Go to Operations > Convert to Wireframe.
  • Delete: Zoom in and remove only the dot stitches (avoid cutting into the stem).
  • Success check: Resize the lettering and verify the dot stays gone while the rest of the “i” remains intact.
  • If it still fails… Re-check stitch identification at high zoom (around 600%) to ensure the selected stitches were the dot, not nearby underlay or stem stitches.
• Q: How do I stop decorative diamond appliqué borders from bunching or twisting at sharp 90-degree corners in DesignShop?
  A: Split the decorative element exactly at the corner so the pattern cycle restarts cleanly at the turn.
  • Set: Build the appliqué sequence as Placement → Tackdown (color change stop) → Decorative Border.
  • Increase: Widen the decorative border to about 60 points (~6 mm) to hide hand-cut edge variation.
  • Split: Use the Split Element tool right on the corner node before sewing.
  • Success check: Corners sew with a clean, restarted pattern look (not a knotted, overbuilt lump).
  • If it still fails… Re-check that the split is exactly on the corner node (not slightly before/after the turn).
• Q: Why does a circle monogram in DesignShop drag long thread tails instead of trimming between the monogram and ornament, and how do I fix it?
  A: Many older fonts do not include trim instructions, so force tie-offs by setting Tie In / Tie Out to Always.
  • Open: Go to Object Properties for the problem object/segment.
  • Set: Change Tie In / Tie Out to Always.
  • Re-run: Regenerate/preview the stitch sequence to confirm tie behavior between elements.
  • Success check: The sew-out shows controlled tie-offs with no long jump tail dragged between the monogram and the ornament.
  • If it still fails… Verify the correct object is selected (the segment that jumps) and reapply the Tie In / Tie Out setting there.
• Q: What is the correct “flatness” standard to hoop a cotton bucket hat with a 4.25" hoop without hoop burn or slipping?
  A: Aim for smooth and taut like a tightly tucked bedsheet—flat without over-crushing or over-stretching the hat fabric.
  • Inspect: Look for a smooth surface (no warping or pulled distortion around the hoop ring).
  • Feel: Press the hooped area; it should feel firm and even, not “trampoline tight.”
  • Avoid: Do not over-tighten to force thick brim seams flat—this is a common cause of hoop burn on cotton.
  • Success check: The fabric sits smooth with no shiny crushed ring marks after unhooping.
  • If it still fails… Consider switching to a magnetic embroidery hoop for thick headwear to clamp securely with less fiber-crushing force.
• Q: What needle safety steps should be used when embroidering over thick bucket-hat seams to prevent needle deflection and throat-plate strikes?
  A: Slow down before the seam and keep your face out of the needle path—needle deflection is a real risk on thick folds.
  • Slow: Reduce machine speed to 600 SPM or lower when approaching thick seams.
  • Watch: Monitor the needle path closely at the seam transition (do not walk away during that section).
  • Position: Keep eyes and face away from the direct needle line while stitching headwear seams.
  • Success check: The seam area sews without a needle strike sound/contact and stitches remain aligned through the thickness change.
  • If it still fails… Stop immediately and reassess the seam height and hooping flatness before continuing.
• Q: What magnetic hoop safety rules should be followed when using industrial neodymium magnetic embroidery hoops during hooping?
  A: Treat magnetic hoops like pinch tools—keep fingers clear, and keep magnets away from medical devices and magnetic-sensitive items.
  • Keep clear: Hold the hoop pieces by safe edges and keep fingers out of the contact zone as magnets snap together.
  • Separate safely: Control the release—do not let magnets “jump” together uncontrolled.
  • Protect: Keep magnetic hoops away from pacemakers, magnetic stripe cards, and phones.
  • Success check: Hooping can be done repeatedly with no finger pinches and consistent clamping without sudden snaps.
  • If it still fails… Pause and change handling technique or workstation setup before continuing; do not “fight” the magnets.