Kimberbell “This Is How We Roll” Mug Rug on a Baby Lock Solaris: The No-Panic ITH Workflow That Keeps Layers Flat and Corners Crisp

If you’ve ever started an In-the-Hoop (ITH) mug rug project and felt that little spike of panic—“Did I place that fabric right-side up?”, “Is my batting going to creep?”, “Why does the backing suddenly look crooked?”—you aren’t alone. That anxiety comes from the gap between knowing the steps and feeling the materials.

The good news: this Kimberbell project is genuinely beginner-friendly. On a machine as capable as the Baby Lock Solaris, it can be a smooth, deeply satisfying stitch-out—provided you follow a disciplined layer order and respect the physics of the hoop.

As a veteran embroiderer, I look at Lisa’s “This Is How We Roll” project not just as a pattern, but as a lesson in bulk management and precision layering. Below is a reconstructed, “white paper” style guide to the process. We will optimize Lisa’s method with sensory checkpoints and safety protocols to ensure your first attempt looks like your fiftieth.

Don’t Panic When the Baby Lock Solaris Screen Says “Hoop Attaches on the Right”—Your Stitch-Out Isn’t Ruined

Lisa encounters a specific quirks on the Solaris screen: a notification claiming the hoop attaches on the right, which contradicts the physical setup for larger hoops or specific attachments. This is a common "false positive" in embroidery logic that freezes new users in their tracks.

The Reality: The machine’s sensors are detecting a hoop size, but the software’s visual prompt might generic. What matters is the mechanical lock.

Action Protocol:

1. Slide: Slide the hoop onto the embroidery arm.
2. Listen: Listen for that distinctive, solid clunk-click sound. If it feels mushy, pull it out and check for debris.
3. Engage: Lower the locking lever. It should offer firm resistance—like closing a severe-weather window latch—not stick halfway.
4. Ignore: If the screen note doesn’t match your physical reality, but the machine recognizes the hoop area correctly in the layout screen, proceed.

Expected Outcome: The placement line stitches normally. If there was a true error, the machine would physically refuse to move the arm or throw a "Cannot recognize hoop" alarm.

The “Hidden” Prep That Makes This Kimberbell ITH Mug Rug Feel Easy (Threads, Stabilizer, and a Clean Cutting Zone)

Preparation is where 90% of ITH failures happen.Lisa’s prep is simple, but as your Chief Education Officer, I need to add the "invisible" layers that seasoned pros use to prevent chaos.

The "Invisible" Consumables List (Stuff newbies often forget):

• Fresh Needle: A 75/11 Embroidery Needle is your sweet spot. A dull needle will push lofty batting down into the bobbin case rather than piercing it cleanly.
• Spray Adhesive (Optional but Recommended): A light mist of 505 spray can prevent batting creep better than gravity alone.
• Micro-tip Snips: For cutting jump stitches cleanly.

The "Drum Skin" Sensory Anchor: When you hoop your stabilizer, run your fingernail across it. It should sound like a drum skin—a tight, high-pitched scratch. If it sounds dull or the stabilizer ripples, re-hoop. A loose foundation means your rectangular mug rug will turn out as a parallelogram.

The Workflow Station: ITH projects punish disorder because you cannot easily leave the machine once layers start stacking.

• Left Hand Side: Pre-ironed fabrics stacked in order of use (Base -> Polka Dot -> Leather -> Backing).
• Right Hand Side: Duckbill scissors and paper tape.

If you are building a repeatable workflow for ITH projects, investing in a dedicated hooping station is one of the scientifically proven ways to reduce geometric distortion. It ensures your stabilizer is square to the frame every single time, which is critical when you are making matched sets of gifts.

Prep Checklist (The "Pre-Flight" Safety Check):

• Tactile Check: Tap the stabilizer; is it taut? (Yes/No)
• Visual Check: Bobbin is full? (You do NOT want to change a bobbin under a tacked-down mug rug).
• Tool Check: Duckbill scissors and Paper Tape are within 12 inches of your hand.
• Heat Check: Fabrics are pre-pressed flat (steamed remove creases that cause sizing errors).

Batting Placement on Hooped Stabilizer: The “Don’t Trim Yet” Rule That Prevents Short Edges

Lisa stitches the batting placement line directly onto the hooped stabilizer. This defines your "Target Zone."

The Action Sequence:

1. Stitch: Run the placement line.
2. Cover: Lay the batting down. It must extend at least 0.5 to 1 inch past the stitch rectangle on all sides.
3. The "Float": Lisa does not tape it. Why? Batting has friction (grip). It grabs the stabilizer.
4. Tack: Run the heavy tack-down stitch.
5. The Cardinal Rule: Do not trim yet.

Expert Insight (The Physics of Pull): Why wait to trim? When you stitch the next few layers, the embroidery foot provides downward pressure. This can pull the batting slightly inward (draw-in). If you trim it flush now, you might end up with a hollow edge later. Leaving the excess acts as a "safety buffer" or stabilizer for the batting itself.

Checkpoint: Press down on the batting with your palm to ensure it engaged with the stabilizer fibers before hitting "Start" for the tack-down.

Base Fabric Placement: Yes, You’re Supposed to Be “Outside the Lines” on the Blue Cotton

Next, placing the base fabric requires a mental shift: precise alignment is bad here; generous coverage is good.

The "Canopy" Technique: Place the blue fabric right side up. Ensure it drapes over the batting placement lines by a comfortable margin.

• Sensory Check: Run your hand flat over the fabric. If you feel a "bubble" or a "wave," smooth it outward. Any bubble stitched down now becomes a permanent wrinkle.

The Risk of "Just Enough": Beginners often try to save fabric by cutting pieces to the exact size of the box. Don't. If the fabric shifts 2mm during stitching—which happens—you will have exposed batting. Waste the half-inch of fabric; save the project.

The Flip-and-Fold Seam with Polka Dot Fabric: Finger-Pressing in the Hoop Without Distorting the Block

This is the classic ITH joinery method. It replaces the sewing machine seam allowance with a programmed stitch line.

The Physics of the Flip:

1. Placement: Lay the polka dot fabric right sides together (face down).
2. Seaming: The machine runs a straight stitch.
3. The Flip: You fold the fabric over to reveal the right side.

Critical Technique: The Finger Press Do not just flip it. You must create a "memory" in the fabric fold.

• Action: Run your fingernail or a dedicated scoring tool along the seam line firmly.
• Sensation: You should feel the bulk of the seam flattening out.

Step 14 Quilting Detail on the Solaris: The White Thread Change That Adds Pop Without Adding Bulk

Lisa initiates a thread change for the decorative quilting.

Operational Discipline:

• The Pause: The machine stops.
• The Swap: Switch to white thread.
• The Snip: Ensure the tail of the new thread is short (cut to 1 inch) or hold it to the side for the first few stitches. If a long white tail gets caught under the quilting, you will see a "ghost thread" showing through the fabric forever.

Tool Upgrade Note: If you find that changing thread disturbs your fabric layers (because you are bumping the hoop), this is a scenario where upgrading to a specialized system helps. Many professionals search for magnetic hoops for embroidery machines because they allow you to pop the frame off for a thread change and snap it back with zero alignment loss, though on the Solaris, careful hands usually suffice.

Raw-Edge Kimberbell Leather Applique: Trim Like It’s the Final Finish (Because It Is)

The stakes are high here. Unlike satin-stitch applique where a thick border hides jagged cutting, this is "raw edge" applique. Your scissor work is the final product.

The "Duckbill" Technique:

1. Stitch: Run the placement and tack-down lines for the leather.
2. The Approach: Use Duckbill (paddle-shaped) scissors.
3. The Angle: Place the "bill" (the wide blade) against the fabric/leather you want to keep. The sharp blade should be in the air, cutting the waste.
4. The Motion: Long, smooth glides. Do not "chomp" with the tips of the scissors; that creates jagged "shark teeth."

Warning: Mechanical Safety. Keep your fingers clear of the needle bar. It is tempting to trim "just one little thread" while the machine is paused but still powered. Accidentally hitting the "Start" button while your fingers are inside the hoop is a career-ending injury. Always keep hands out of the "Red Zone" (the hoop interior) unless the machine is locked or emergency stopped.

Checkpoint: Run your finger along the cut edge of the leather. It should feel smooth, not catchy.

Black Thread Text Stitch-Out (“THIS IS HOW WE…ROLL”) and the 8-Minute Reality Check

Lisa switches to black thread for the typography and dice. The screen says 8 minutes.

Patience Protocol:

• Do Not Hover: Do not try to trim jump stitches between letters while the machine is moving.
• Watch the Tension: Text is density-heavy. If you see white bobbin thread puling up to the top (look for white specks in the black text), your top tension might be too tight, or the bobbin path has lint.
• Successful Appearance: The text should sit on top of the fabric texture, not bury into it.

Envelope-Style Backing in the Hoop: The 1-Inch Overlap That Saves You from Hand-Sewing Later

This is the magic trick of ITH projects. You build the back of the rug inside out, so turning it reveals the finish.

The "Envelope" Logic:

1. Placement 1: Piece A face down.
2. Placement 2: Piece B face down, overlapping Piece A by 1 inch.
3. The Risk Zone: That 1-inch overlap creates a "lip" or a "ridge." As the embroidery foot travels over this ridge, it can catch, flip the fabric up, and ruin the project instantly.

The Solution: The Tape Bridge You must tape this folded edge down. Use Kimberbell paper tape (or painter's tape).

• Action: Tape transversely across the fold where the foot will travel.
• Why: You are creating a smooth ramp for the presser foot to glide over.

Warning: Magnetic Safety. For those using upgraded hoops, remember that magnetic embroidery hoops use powerful neodymium magnets. Keep them away from pacemakers, computerized machine screens, and credit cards. They act like a trap door—they pinch hard. Never let two magnets snap together without a separator.

Checkpoint: Visually confirm the tape is flat and the fabric envelope is tight before the final perimeter stitch begins.

The “Magic Moment”: When You’re Finally Allowed to Unhoop (and Why You Should Wait Every Time)

Lisa waits until the absolute end to unhoop.

The "Premature Unhooping" Trap: Never unhoop to trim something "easier" halfway through. You will never, ever get that hoop back in the exact same distinct coordinate.

• Action: Remove hoop from the machine arm.
• Sensory Anchor: When removing the paper tape, pull slowly. Listen for the gentle shhhhk sound. If you hear a rip, you are pulling too fast and might distort the weave of your backing fabric.

Trim to a Clean 1/8" Seam Allowance: The Bulk-Control Move That Makes Turning Look Professional

Lisa trims the project to a tight 1/8 inch.

The Data on Bulk: Standard sewing uses 1/4" or 5/8" seams. In ITH projects, we trim to 1/8" because we cannot "press open" the seams inside the mug rug. A 1/8" allowance prevents a lumpy ridge on the edge of your coaster.

Corner Management: Clip the corners at a 45-degree angle.

• Action: Cut across the corner point, getting within 2mm of the stitching without cutting the stitch.
• Result: This removes the material that would otherwise bunch up and make your corners look round instead of sharp.

Turning and Shaping: Use a Simple Turning Tool and Don’t Overwork the Corners

Turning the project right side out is the birth of the mug rug.

Tool Selection: Lisa uses a pen/eraser. I recommend a "Point Turner" or a simple chopstick.

• The Risk: Metal scissors or sharp pencils can pierce right through your fresh corner stitches.
• The Motion: Push gently from the inside. Massage the corner out rather than stabbing it out.

The Final Finish: While Lisa notes you can press it, I insist you must press it. A final steam press sets the stitches and bonds the batting fibers, giving the project a professional, flat hand.

Stabilizer + Fabric + Batting: A Simple Decision Tree for Flatter ITH Results

Variations in fabric thickness can cause shifting. Use this logic tree to troubleshoot your layer stack.

Decision Tree: "Why is my ITH project distorted?"

1. Check Foundation: Is the stabilizer drum-tight?
   • No: Re-hoop. Nothing else will fix this.
   • Yes: Go to #2.
2. Check Tension: Did you pull the fabric tight during the "Flip and Fold"?
   • Yes: You stretched the bias. Next time, just lay it flat (neutral tension).
   • No: Go to #3.
3. Check Hoop Physics: Are the layers too thick for the inner/outer ring to hold?
   • Yes: The fabric is slipping out of the hoop grip. See option below.
   • No: Check your needle sharpness.

For Baby Lock owners attempting thicker projects (like using fleece instead of cotton), the standard hoop can struggle to grip thick sandwiches. In this scenario, magnetic hoops for babylock embroidery machines become a valuable asset. The magnetic force clamps directly down on the thickness, eliminating the "hoop burn" and "pop-out" issues common with traditional friction hoops.

Troubleshooting the Mug Rug Like a Shop Owner: Symptoms, Causes, Fixes

Here is your cheat sheet for when things go wrong.

The Upgrade Path When You Want to Make 20 of These (and Not Hate Your Life by Mug Rug #7)

Lisa is right—this project is fast. But "fast" for one item becomes "tedious" for twenty. If you plan to sell these or make batch gifts, the bottleneck is not the stitching time—it is the Hooping and Handling time.

Here is the commercial logic for upgrading your setup:

Scene Trigger: You are making 25 mug rugs for a craft fair. By number 6, your wrists hurt from tightening hoop screws, and you have wasted 3 pieces of fabric due to crooked hooping.

Judgment Criteria:

• Are you strictly a hobbyist doing 1-2 items a month? -> Stay with stock tools.
• Are you doing small batches (10-50)? -> Upgrade the Hoop.
• Are you running a home business? -> Upgrade the Machine.

The Solutions (Options):

1. Level 1 (Ergonomics & Speed): For single-needle users fighting hoop screws, embroidery hoops magnetic act as a power steering upgrade. You lay the fabric, snap the magnets, and stitch. No muscle strain, no hoop burn marks to iron out later.
2. Level 2 (Consistency): If exact placement is killing you, a hoopmaster system ensures every logo or block is in the exact same pixel-perfect spot.
3. Level 3 (Scale): If thread changes (Teal -> White -> Black) are eating 50% of your time, a multi-needle machine (like SEWTECH models) automates the color swaps. This lets you prep the next hoop while the machine stitches the current one.

Setup Checklist (Do this BEFORE pressing Start)

• [ ] Stabilizer acts like a drum skin (Tight!).
• [ ] Bobbin has at least 50% thread remaining.
• [ ] Duckbill scissors are on the table (not lost under fabric).
• [ ] Paper tape is pre-torn into 2-inch strips on the table edge.
• [ ] Initial thread color is loaded.

Operation Checklist (Do this DURING the run)

• [ ] Batting floats freely? (Do NOT tape batting; let it float).
• [ ] Flip-and-Fold seams are finger-pressed flat (No stretching).
• [ ] Leather edges are trimmed smooth (This is the final look).
• [ ] Envelope backing overlap is TAPED down (Critical safety step).
• [ ] Unhoop only when the "Finish" flag appears.

By following this vetted protocol, you are moving from "hoping it works" to "knowing it will work." Happy stitching

FAQ

• Q: Why does the Baby Lock Solaris embroidery screen say “Hoop attaches on the right” when the hoop is physically mounted on the embroidery arm normally?
  A: This is often a generic on-screen prompt—proceed if the hoop is mechanically locked and the machine recognizes the hoop area.
  • Slide the hoop onto the embroidery arm fully.
  • Listen for a solid “clunk-click,” then lower the locking lever with firm resistance.
  • Confirm the layout/hoop area displays correctly on the Solaris screen before stitching.
  • Success check: the placement line stitches normally and the arm moves freely without a “Cannot recognize hoop” alarm.
  • If it still fails… remove the hoop, check for debris at the mount point, re-attach, and only stop if the machine throws a true hoop recognition error.
• Q: What is the correct “drum-tight” hooping standard for stabilizer when making a Kimberbell ITH mug rug on a Baby Lock Solaris?
  A: The stabilizer must be hooped extremely taut; loose stabilizer is a primary cause of crooked or distorted ITH blocks.
  • Hoop the stabilizer and run a fingernail across it to test tension.
  • Re-hoop immediately if you see ripples, waves, or slack at the edges.
  • Keep the stabilizer square in the hoop before starting the placement line.
  • Success check: the stabilizer “sounds like a drum skin” (tight, high-pitched scratch) and looks flat with no puckers.
  • If it still fails… revisit the layer thickness—too much bulk can overpower a standard hoop’s grip and allow shifting.
• Q: Which “hidden prep” items prevent common ITH mug rug failures on a Baby Lock Solaris (needle, bobbin, tools, optional adhesive)?
  A: Use a fresh 75/11 embroidery needle, a sufficiently full bobbin, and the right cutting tools; optional light spray adhesive can reduce batting creep.
  • Install a fresh 75/11 embroidery needle before starting (a dull needle can push batting into the machine area rather than piercing cleanly).
  • Verify the bobbin is not near-empty to avoid changing bobbins mid-project.
  • Stage micro-tip snips and duckbill scissors within reach before stitching begins.
  • Success check: you can complete the early placement/tack steps without stopping to hunt tools or replace the bobbin.
  • If it still fails… clean lint from the bobbin area and re-check stitch quality before restarting the ITH sequence.
• Q: When stitching batting onto hooped stabilizer for a Kimberbell ITH mug rug, why should batting not be trimmed after the tack-down line?
  A: Do not trim batting early—leave at least 0.5–1 inch beyond the stitch rectangle to prevent short edges caused by draw-in.
  • Stitch the batting placement line first, then lay batting so it extends 0.5–1 inch past the rectangle on all sides.
  • Tack the batting down with the heavy tack stitch, but leave excess batting untrimmed at this stage.
  • Press the batting with your palm before starting to help it “grab” the stabilizer fibers.
  • Success check: later layers do not reveal hollow/skinny edges where batting pulled inward.
  • If it still fails… check hoop tension and reduce handling bumps during thread changes or fabric flips to minimize layer creep.
• Q: How do I stop Baby Lock Solaris ITH envelope backing fabric from getting snagged by the embroidery foot at the 1-inch overlap ridge?
  A: Tape the folded overlap edge down to create a smooth ramp for the presser foot.
  • Place backing Piece A face down, then place Piece B face down overlapping Piece A by 1 inch.
  • Tape across the folded overlap edge (transversely) where the presser foot will travel.
  • Smooth the tape so there are no lifted corners for the foot to catch.
  • Success check: the foot glides over the overlap without flipping the backing fabric up during the final perimeter stitch.
  • If it still fails… re-tape with a flatter “bridge,” and confirm the overlap is truly 1 inch (a taller ridge increases snag risk).
• Q: What safety rule should be followed when trimming raw-edge Kimberbell leather applique inside a Baby Lock Solaris embroidery hoop?
  A: Keep hands out of the hoop “red zone” unless the machine is locked/stopped—never trim near the needle area while the machine is powered and could start.
  • Pause the machine and make sure the needle bar will not move before bringing fingers near the hoop interior.
  • Use duckbill scissors with the wide blade against the material you are keeping, cutting waste with the raised blade.
  • Trim with long, smooth glides instead of “chomping” with scissor tips to avoid jagged edges.
  • Success check: the leather edge feels smooth to the touch (not catchy) and looks clean because raw-edge cuts are the final finish.
  • If it still fails… stop and reposition the hoop for safer access rather than reaching deeper; rushed trimming causes both injury risk and visible cutting defects.
• Q: When should an ITH mug rug maker upgrade from technique tweaks to magnetic hoops or a multi-needle machine for batch production (10–50+ pieces)?
  A: Upgrade based on the bottleneck: optimize handling first, consider magnetic hoops when hooping/hoop burn/slip become the limiter, and consider a multi-needle machine when thread changes dominate time.
  • Level 1 (Technique): Improve pre-flight setup—drum-tight stabilizer, tools staged, bobbin sufficiently full, and avoid stretching during flip-and-fold.
  • Level 2 (Tool): If thick layer stacks slip, hoop burn is frequent, or hooping fatigue slows production, magnetic hoops may improve clamping and speed.
  • Level 3 (Capacity): If repeated color changes (teal/white/black) consume a large share of runtime, a multi-needle machine can reduce manual interruptions.
  • Success check: production becomes repeatable—fewer mis-hoops, fewer restarts, and less handling time per mug rug.
  • If it still fails… document the exact failure point (hooping, layer shift, thread-change disturbance) and address that single constraint before upgrading anything else.