3 Couture-Ready Embroidery Looks on the Husqvarna Viking Designer Epic 2: mySewnet Search, On-Screen Color Swaps, and Endless Hoop Borders That Actually Line Up

If you’ve ever stared at a sheer fabric like tulle and thought, “One wrong move and this will pucker, shift, or shred,” you’re not alone. In my twenty years of studio experience, I’ve seen seasoned pros hesitate before stitching on delicate substrates. The fear is valid: tulle has no weave memory, and satin bruises if you look at it wrong.

The good news: the Husqvarna Viking Designer Epic 2 and the mySewnet ecosystem make the design selection and color planning feel effortless—so you can spend your brainpower where it really matters: stabilization, hooping, and clean finishing.

In this post, I’m rebuilding three projects shown in the video—exactly as demonstrated—then adding the “old pro” details that keep you from wasting tulle, snapping needles, or re-hooping a border five times. We are moving from "hoping it works" to "knowing it will work."

The Calm-Down Moment: What the Designer Epic 2 + mySewnet Workflow Gets Right (and Where People Still Mess Up)

The video is a great reminder that the fastest embroidery workflow is the one that reduces decision fatigue: designs are searchable right on the machine, previews update instantly, and color edits are visual.

But here’s the part that trips up even experienced stitchers: the machine makes design access easy, which can tempt you to rush the physical setup. With delicate substrates (tulle) and slippery ones (satin), the hooping and stabilization choices decide whether your result looks couture—or looks like it fought a lawnmower.

One viewer asked the two questions I hear constantly in studios:

• Do you need a subscription to access these designs?
• If you embroider on tulle, do you also need water-soluble stabilizer?

The creator answered clearly: you need a subscription for mySewnet embroideries (but not for designs already built into the machine), and she highly recommends water-soluble stabilization for one layer of tulle; she used two layers of tulle for the pink heart circles with no stabilizer and it was fine.

The “Hidden” Prep Before You Touch the Screen: Tulle, Satin, Thread Choices, and Why They Behave So Differently

Before we talk searches and palettes, set yourself up for success—especially if you’re planning to stitch multiple repeats (30 hearts, or a long waistband border).

Fabric + stabilizer reality check (what’s happening physically)

• Tulle creates a "Spiderweb Effect": It is an open hexagonal structure. Needle penetrations push the threads aside rather than piercing them, which can distort your design grid. This is why a stabilizing layer (or a second layer of tulle) acts as a "net" to catch the stitches.
• Satin creates "Slide & Bruise" risks: Satin is slippery (low friction) and creates "hoop burn" (crushed pile) if clamped too aggressively. A standard hoop relies on friction, which requires tight clamping.

If you’re building a workflow around hooping for embroidery machine, treat hooping as a controlled tension system: you want the fabric supported, not stretched like a drum skin until it screams. You should be able to tap the fabric and hear a dull thud, not a high-pitched ping.

Prep Checklist (do this once, save hours later)

• Confirm access: If the design is in mySewnet Library, plan on needing an active subscription; if it’s already on the machine, you don’t.
• Choose your base plan for tulle:
  • One layer of tulle → Use water-soluble stabilizer (WSS) in the hoop.
  • Two layers of tulle (as shown for the heart circles) → May be stable enough without stabilizer, provided the stitch density is low (under 4000 stitches/design).
• Thread plan: If you’re mixing metallic with regular embroidery thread (as shown on the medallion), slow your machine speed down.
  • Sweet Spot: Drop speed to 600-700 SPM (Stitches Per Minute) for metallics to reduce friction heat.
• Needle safety: Start with a fresh embroidery needle (Size 75/11 is the sweet spot for tulle). Dull needles snag tulle and shred metallic thread.

Warning: Needles and small scissors are not “minor” risks—especially when trimming jump stitches near sheer fabric. Power off before changing needles, keep fingers clear of the needle path, and never reach under the presser foot while the machine is active.

Project 1 Payoff: Turning Freestanding Lace Hearts into a Wearable Bodice (Without a Flimsy Result)

In the video, Anastasia takes a freestanding lace heart design (originally intended like an ornament) and uses it as a building block for a bodice. She mentions she’s embroidering about 30 hearts and stitching them together to form the garment.

The key creative decision she makes is important: freestanding lace can be stitched on water-soluble stabilizer alone so it becomes “just thread,” but she adds tulle behind it to give the final bodice more strength.

Find the design on the Designer Epic 2 (as demonstrated)

1. Open the mySewnet Library on the front screen.
2. In the search menu, type “LACE HEART”.
3. Scroll the results and select Design #31 (the freestanding lace heart).
4. Load it to the workspace; the design uses 80mm x 80mm hoop size.
   

Hooping and stabilization for the heart circles (what the video shows + what keeps it consistent)

What’s shown:

• She stitches the heart circles on two layers of tulle and says it was fine with no stabilizer.

What I’d add from experience:

• If your tulle is softer, stretchier, or more open than hers, you may see distortion. In that case, add water-soluble stabilizer anyway—especially if you’re producing 30 repeats and want them to match.
• Consistency is King: Keep your hoop tension consistent across all repeats. If the first 5 hearts are hooped “tight” and the next 5 are hooped “loose,” they won’t join cleanly later.

If you’re using a hooping station for embroidery machine, this is where it shines: it standardizes your hooping pressure and keeps your layers aligned while your hands do the clamping, ensuring Heart #1 matches Heart #30 exactly.

Setup Checklist (repeatable setup for batch hearts)

• Hooping: Hoop the layers the same way every time (same grain direction, same tulle orientation).
• Test Stitch: If skipping stabilizer with two layers of tulle, test-stitch one heart first and inspect for "cupping" or distortion before committing to 30.
• Organization: Keep a labeled tray or envelope system for finished hearts so you don’t crush delicate lace edges while stacking.
• Consumables: Ensure you have enough bobbin thread (pre-wound bobbins save time) and a fresh water-soluble marker for alignment if needed.
  

mySewnet Library on the Epic 2: Search Like a Pro So You’re Not Scrolling Forever

The video demonstrates three searches that are worth copying because they’re “category searches,” not random browsing:

• LACE HEART for freestanding lace hearts
• VINTAGE for the medallion
• ENDLESS for border designs intended for re-hooping

That’s the mindset: search by design family first, then pick the specific number.

If you’re building a studio workflow around machine embroidery hoops, keep a notebook (or phone note) of “search terms that reliably return usable sets.” It’s faster than trying to remember design numbers later.

Project 2 Magic: Embroidering the “Vintage Medallion” on One Layer of Tulle So It Looks Like It’s Floating

This is the project that sells the whole concept: a vintage floral medallion stitched on sheer tulle so it looks suspended.

What’s shown:

• She uses water-soluble interfacing/stabilizer with the tulle.
• She searches “VINTAGE” and selects Design #15, called the Vintage Medallion.
• She mixes metallic thread with regular embroidery thread.

Find the medallion design (as demonstrated)

1. In mySewnet Library search, type “VINTAGE”.
2. Select Design #15 (Vintage Medallion).
3. Load it to the screen; it appears in the default purple/pink palette.
   

Stabilizer decision tree (tulle-focused, production-friendly)

Use this when you’re deciding how to hoop sheer fabrics without distortion:

1. Is the base fabric One Layer of Tulle?
   • YES: You MUST use Water-Soluble Stabilizer (WSS). The tulle cannot support the stitch pull alone.
   • NO: Proceed to step 2.
2. Is the base fabric Two Layers of Tulle?
   • Light/Open Design: (e.g., Lace motifs) → You might get away with No Stabilizer (Test first!).
   • Dense Design: (e.g., Fills, Satin columns) → Add WSS. Density creates pull; pull creates puckers.
3. Is the base fabric Satin (Border/Waistband)?
   • Use a Fusable Poly-Mesh or Tear-away depending on the specific satin weight.
   • Crucial: Avoid over-tight hooping that leaves "hoop burn" (shiny crushed rings).

This is also where tool upgrades become practical, not “nice-to-have.” If you routinely fight hoop marks or shifting on delicate fashion fabrics, a magnetic hoop for husqvarna viking can reduce clamp pressure while still holding securely—especially helpful when you’re re-hooping long borders or working with slippery satin. The magnetic force holds without the "friction grind" of traditional inner/outer rings.

The On-Screen Color Swap Ritual: Artist Palette → Thread Block → Rainbow Wheel → Checkmark

Anastasia demonstrates color editing directly on the Designer Epic 2 screen, and she’s right: it’s fast once you know the exact icon path.

Here’s the workflow exactly as shown:

1. Tap the Artist Palette icon to reveal the color layers.
2. Select the specific thread block you want to change (example shown: Burgundy).
3. The machine highlights where that color appears in the design.
4. Tap the Rainbow Wheel icon.
5. Choose the new hue (example shown: Gold).
6. Confirm with the checkmark.
7. Repeat for other colors (she also demonstrates changing another color to a green tone).
   

Why this matters beyond “pretty colors”

Machine colorways are suggestions, but color changes also affect how forgiving a design is:

• Metallic Thread Physics: Metallic thread often benefits from simpler paths. If your design has tiny, dense satin stitches, metallic thread may shred.
• Contrast Reality: High-contrast thread on tulle makes any distortion more visible—so stabilization becomes even more important.

If you’re selecting embroidery hoops for husqvarna viking for fashion work, prioritize options that keep the fabric stable without crushing it; clean colorwork looks amateur fast if the base fabric ripples.

Project 3 That Makes You Money: Endless Hoop II Bow Borders on Satin That Don’t Drift Off-Track

Endless borders are where people either fall in love with embroidery—or swear it off forever. The frustration usually stems from alignment errors during re-hooping.

What’s shown:

• She uses hot pink satin and stitches purple bows.
• She explains “endless designs” are border designs where you stitch a section, stop, re-hoop and line it up, then continue.
• She says you can do hems, skirts, blouses, sleeves, and in her case a waistband.
• She uses the Endless Hoop II.
• On screen, she searches “ENDLESS” and selects Design #2 (Bows).
  

Find the bow border design (as demonstrated)

1. In mySewnet Library search, type “ENDLESS”.
2. Browse the results; select Design #2, the bows.
3. Load it to the screen; you’ll see the repeating vertical bow pattern.

If you’re specifically working with a husqvarna endless embroidery hoop, the big win is controlled re-hooping: the hoop is designed to make repeated placements practical.

The alignment discipline that prevents “border creep”

The video correctly emphasizes the process: stitch → stop → re-hoop → line up → stitch again.

From a production standpoint, here’s what keeps the border from drifting:

• Mark the Baseline: Use a ruler and chalk/water-soluble pen to draw a continuous line down the length of your fabric. This is your "North Star."
• Freeze Hoop Tension: Don't loosen or tighten the screw between hoopings. Satin will show every inconsistency.
• Support the Weight: Gravity is your enemy. If the dangling fabric weighs down the hoop, it will pull the design off-center. Rest the excess fabric on a table.

This is also where endless embroidery hoop workflows benefit from magnetic options: when you’re re-hooping repeatedly, a magnetic system can reduce hand strain and speed up the clamp/unclamp cycle.

Warning: Magnetic hoops are powerful. Pinch Hazard: Keep fingers away from the clamping zone—the magnets snap together instantly. Medical Safety: Keep them away from pacemakers and medical implants. Store them away from computerized machine screens, credit cards, and sensitive electronics.

Operation Checklist (for endless borders on satin)

• Test: Stitch one repeat on scrap satin first to check tension.
• Mark: Ensure your reference line extends the full length of the waistband.
• Float: Use temporary spray adhesive (lightly!) on the stabilizer to help grip the satin during re-hooping.
• Monitor: Watch for satin shifting: if you see the fabric “walking” (bubbling up ahead of the foot), stop imediately. Rethread or re-hoop.

Quick Troubleshooting: What to Do When Tulle Warps, Satin Shifts, or Your Endless Border Won’t Match

Even though the video doesn’t include a troubleshooting segment, these are the predictable failure modes for the exact projects shown.

Symptom: Tulle puckers or the design looks wavy

• Likely Cause: Not enough support for one layer of tulle.
• Quick Fix: Add water-soluble stabilizer (WSS) under the hoop (float it) if you've already started. For the next one, hoop the WSS with the tulle.
• Prevention: Use the "drum skin" test—taut, but not distorted.

Symptom: Freestanding lace hearts don’t match size from one to the next

• Likely Cause: Inconsistent hoop tension or fabric grain.
• Quick Fix: Steam blocking can sometimes reshape lace.
• Prevention: Use a Hooping Station or Magnetic Hoop to standardize pressure every single time.

Symptom: Endless border “creeps” and the bows stop lining up

• Likely Cause: Re-hooping without a fixed reference line, or fabric drag.
• Quick Fix: Use the machine's "Precise Positioning" feature to realign the specific stitch point.
• Prevention: Mark your fabric centerline with chalk before you start.

Symptom: Satin shows hoop marks ("burn") after stitching

• Likely Cause: Excess clamp pressure crushing the fibers.
• Quick Fix: Use a "Magic Wand" or steam (hovering, not touching) to lift the fibers.
• Prevention: Switch to a Magnetic Hoop which holds via flat vertical pressure rather than friction wedging.

The Upgrade Path I’d Recommend After You Nail These 3 Projects (Speed, Consistency, and Less Hand Fatigue)

Once you’ve proven you can search and load designs quickly, edit colors confidently, and re-hoop borders without losing alignment, you are essentially running a micro-factory.

If you find yourself doing repeated re-hooping (endless borders) or working with delicate fashion fabrics where hoop marks are unacceptable, upgrading your hooping workflow is usually the first place you feel real Return on Investment (ROI).

Here’s the “Scene → Criterion → Option” logic to help you decide:

1. The Scene: You are stitching the Endless Bows on a satin sash, and you have to re-hoop 8 times. Your wrists hurt, and you're terrified of misalignment.
   • The Criterion: If you re-hoop more than 5 times per project, manual screw-hoops are a bottleneck.
   • The Option (Level 2): Magnetic Hoops (SEWTECH compatible). They snap on instantly, hold satin firmly without "burn," and allow for micro-adjustments without unscrewing the whole frame.
2. The Scene: You need to make 50 of those Lace Hearts for a bridal party.
   • The Criterion: If you are running production batches (50+ units), a single-needle machine changeover time becomes your enemy.
   • The Option (Level 3): Commercial capacity. Moving to a SEWTECH Multi-Needle Machine allows you to set up all colors at once and let the machine run uninterrupted, drastically increasing your profit-per-hour.

If you’re comparing accessories, look for compatibility and repeatability—especially if you’re investing in an embroidery hooping system that you’ll use every day.

Final Notes: What to Copy Exactly from the Video (and What to Personalize)

Copy these exactly first:

• Search terms: LACE HEART, VINTAGE, ENDLESS.
• Design numbers shown: #31 (freestanding lace heart) and #15 (vintage medallion) and #2 (bows).
• Color editing path: Artist Palette → select thread block → Rainbow Wheel → checkmark.
• Stabilizer logic shown: one layer of tulle = use water-soluble stabilizer; two layers of tulle for the hearts worked without stabilizer.

Personalize these with confidence:

• Thread colors: (the machine’s palette is a suggestion).
• Consumables: Use higher quality backing/stabilizer than generic brands for better results.
• Workflow Tools: Once you start doing borders and batches, the right hoops (Magnetic), stabilizers, and thread quality stop being “extras” and start being your profit margin.

FAQ

• Q: Do Husqvarna Viking Designer Epic 2 projects on one layer of tulle require Water-Soluble Stabilizer (WSS)?
  A: Yes—one layer of tulle should be hooped with water-soluble stabilizer to prevent puckers and waviness.
  • Hoop WSS together with the tulle (rather than relying on tulle alone).
  • Keep hooping tension supportive, not overstretched.
  • Stitch a small test first if the design is new to the fabric.
  • Success check: the stitched medallion or motif stays flat and the tulle remains smooth with no rippling around stitch lines.
  • If it still fails: add an additional support layer (another layer of tulle) and reduce stitch density by choosing a lighter design.
• Q: Can Husqvarna Viking Designer Epic 2 heart-circle embroidery on two layers of tulle be stitched without stabilizer?
  A: Sometimes—two layers of tulle may work without stabilizer for light designs, but testing is critical for consistency across repeats.
  • Test-stitch one heart circle before committing to a batch (especially if making ~30 repeats).
  • Keep the same tulle orientation and hooping method every time to avoid size variation.
  • Add WSS if the tulle is softer, stretchier, or more open than expected.
  • Success check: Heart #1 and Heart #10 measure and match visually (no cupping, no distortion).
  • If it still fails: hoop WSS with the tulle for every repeat to standardize results.
• Q: What is the correct hooping tension standard for Husqvarna Viking Designer Epic 2 embroidery on tulle or satin to prevent distortion and hoop burn?
  A: Aim for “supported, not stretched”—the fabric should feel taut with a dull thud when tapped, not a tight drum ping.
  • Tighten only until the fabric is stable and doesn’t shift under gentle finger pressure.
  • Avoid over-clamping satin, which can leave shiny crushed hoop rings (hoop burn).
  • Keep hoop tension consistent from piece to piece, especially for batch work.
  • Success check: tulle designs do not wave/pucker, and satin shows no shiny hoop marks after unhooping.
  • If it still fails: switch stabilization strategy (WSS for tulle; poly-mesh/tear-away for satin) and re-evaluate clamping pressure.
• Q: What machine speed and needle setup is a safe starting point on Husqvarna Viking Designer Epic 2 when using metallic thread on tulle (Vintage Medallion style)?
  A: Slow down and start fresh—600–700 SPM and a new 75/11 embroidery needle is a safe starting point for metallics on tulle.
  • Reduce speed to 600–700 SPM to lower friction heat and shredding risk.
  • Install a fresh size 75/11 embroidery needle (dull needles snag tulle and stress metallic thread).
  • Stitch a small section first to confirm smooth feeding before running the full design.
  • Success check: metallic thread runs without repeated fraying/breaks and the tulle shows no needle snags.
  • If it still fails: rethread carefully and consider simplifying thread choices (use regular embroidery thread for dense areas).
• Q: What should Husqvarna Viking Designer Epic 2 users do when tulle puckers or the embroidery design looks wavy after stitching starts?
  A: Add support immediately—tulle puckering usually means the setup needs water-soluble stabilizer support.
  • Float WSS under the hoop as a quick rescue if stitching already began.
  • For the next attempt, hoop the WSS together with the tulle for stronger control.
  • Re-check hooping tension using the “dull thud” standard (taut, not distorted).
  • Success check: the next test stitch sits flat with even edges and no rippling around the motif.
  • If it still fails: choose a lighter design (lower density) or add a second layer of tulle.
• Q: How do Husqvarna Viking Designer Epic 2 users stop Endless Hoop II satin borders (ENDLESS Design #2 bows) from creeping and not lining up after re-hooping?
  A: Control alignment and fabric drag—border creep is usually caused by missing reference lines or fabric weight pulling during re-hooping.
  • Draw a continuous baseline/centerline the full length of the satin before stitching.
  • Keep hoop screw tension the same between hoopings (do not loosen/tighten each cycle).
  • Support the dangling fabric on a table so gravity doesn’t pull the hooped area off-center.
  • Success check: the next repeat stitches so the bow pattern meets cleanly with no visible step or drift at the join.
  • If it still fails: use the machine’s Precise Positioning feature to realign to a specific stitch point before continuing.
• Q: What safety steps should be followed when changing needles or trimming jump stitches near sheer tulle on a Husqvarna Viking Designer Epic 2 embroidery machine?
  A: Treat it as a real hazard—power off before needle changes and keep fingers out of the needle path during trimming.
  • Turn off the machine before changing the needle.
  • Keep fingers clear of the needle path and never reach under the presser foot while the machine is active.
  • Use small scissors carefully when trimming near tulle to avoid snags and accidental cuts.
  • Success check: needle changes happen with no accidental starts, and trimming is controlled without catching or tearing the tulle.
  • If it still fails: pause more often and reposition the work so trimming is done with full visibility and stable hand support.
• Q: When repeated re-hooping for Husqvarna Viking Endless Hoop II borders causes wrist strain or hoop burn on satin, what is a practical upgrade path?
  A: Use a tiered fix—first optimize technique, then consider magnetic hoops for less clamp pressure, and only then consider a multi-needle machine for production volume.
  • Level 1 (technique): mark a baseline, keep screw tension unchanged, and support fabric weight during re-hooping.
  • Level 2 (tool): consider a magnetic hoop to reduce friction clamping and speed up clamp/unclamp during many re-hoops.
  • Level 3 (capacity): if running large batches (often 50+ repeats), consider moving to a multi-needle machine to reduce changeover time.
  • Success check: re-hooping cycles become repeatable (alignment holds) and satin shows fewer or no hoop marks.
  • If it still fails: reduce the number of re-hoops by re-planning border length per hooping cycle and re-check stabilization for satin.