Wavenet Spark Lesson 6, Demystified: Edit Entry/Exit Points, Fix Density & Angle, and Manually Digitize a Clean Bird Block

If you have ever opened a design in Wavenet Spark, tapped into Advanced Editing, and immediately thought, “One wrong move and I’ll ruin the whole stitch-out,” you are not being dramatic—you are being realistic.

In the world of professional embroidery, "Advanced Editing" is the threshold where you stop being a passive user and become a Stitch Architect. You are no longer just picking colors; you are dictating the structural logic: where the needle enters, where it exits, how the fill lays, and whether the fabric stays flat or turns into a puckered, distorted mess.

This guide rebuilds the exact workflow shown in Wavenet Spark Tutorials – Lesson 6, but it adds the missing layer of 20 years of shop-floor context. We will translate screen clicks into fabric reality, define safety margins for density, and show you how to avoid the "rookie traps" that waste expensive thread and stabilizer.

Calm the Panic First: Advanced Editing Mode in Wavenet Spark Won’t “Break” Your Design—If You Control the Block

The video starts by opening the “Summer time” design file and switching into Advanced Editing Mode using the upper-right button. Once you are in, the key mindset shift is simple: Spark edits happen per block, and the block is your unit of control. Think of it like Lego bricks—adjusting one brick doesn't shatter the rest of the castle unless you tell it to.

When you select a block (the tutorial uses the frame/border block), Spark exposes edit handles and the logic that drives stitch generation.

Two quick realities from production work:

1. Vector Blocks: If your design is built from clean vector blocks, Spark gives you granular control over density, underlay, and compensation.
2. Stitch Blocks: If a section is already in a "stitch format" (like a raw DST file), you may not see embroidery settings. In these cases, Spark allows stitch-by-stitch editing or auto-block creation.

This isn't a limitation; it is a diagnostic clue. If you can't edit the density of a block easily, it usually means it wasn't digitized natively in Spark.

The “Hidden” Prep Before You Touch Density: What to Check in Spark (and in Real Life) So Your Edits Stitch Clean

Before you change a single density value or angle, you must perform the "boring" checks. In professional shops, 90% of failures happen because of what wasn't checked before the machine started running.

Prep Checklist (The "Pre-Flight" Safety Protocol):

• Block Identification: Confirm you have selected the correct block (frame vs. sun vs. bird) so you don't inadvertently "fix" the wrong element.
• Pathing Inspection: Zoom in to 400%. Locate the entry/exit markers. Are there internal holes that will force the machine to trim and jump?
• Stitch Type Intent: Decide now: Is this a fill, a satin outline, or an applique? Each behaves differently under tension.
• Fabric Reality Check: If you plan to stitch this on a specific fabric (the tutorial uses Light Canvas), visualize the texture. Is it rough? Is it slippery?
• Safety Zone Check: If your design is close to the hoop boundary (as the video notes later), flag it now. Striking a hoop with a needle running at 800 SPM is a violent, expensive mistake.
• Hidden Consumables: Do you have a fresh 75/11 needle? Is your bobbin full? Do you have temporary spray adhesive? These are invisible in software but vital for physics.

Warning: Digitizing decisions create physical risk. A too-dense fill combined with a sharp angle change can deflect the needle, causing it to strike the needle plate. Start with conservative edits. Safety Rule: If you hear a sharp "click-click" sound while stitching, stop immediately—your needle is deflecting.

Move Entry/Exit Points in Wavenet Spark Without Creating Ugly Travel Stitches or Bad Sequencing

In the tutorial, Spark shows a yellow trajectory line with circular endpoints—these are the Entry Point (start) and the Exit Point (end). You can drag both.

What to do (exactly as shown)

1. Enter Advanced Editing Mode.
2. Select the block you want to edit (the frame/border block).
3. Find the yellow line with circular endpoints.
4. Drag the entry and/or exit point markers to new positions.

Checkpoints (Sensory & Visual)

• Visual: The yellow path updates as you drag.
• Logic: The stitch preview changes. Spark is calculating the shortest path to fill the shape based on your new coordinates.

Expected outcome

You are controlling the "flow" of the embroidery.

Pro Tip from the Shop Floor: Novices just move points to get them out of the way. Experts minimize "Travel Stitches."

• The Goal: Hide starts and stops. Place the Exit Point of Block A as close as possible to the Entry Point of Block B.
• The Sensation: When efficiently digitized, your machine should sound rhythmic and continuous. If it constantly stops to trim and jump (the "chunk-whirrr-chunk" sound), your entry/exit points are inefficient.

Dialing in Density 6.00 and Stitch Angle 15.18 in Spark: Make the Preview Look Better *and* Stitch Better

The video demonstrates manually entering numeric values: Density 6.00 and Stitch Angle 15.18.

Note on Data: In Wavenet Spark, a higher density number (6.00) implies a thicker fill (more stitches). Caution: In other software platforms like Wilcom or Hatch, density is often measured in spacing (mm), where a LOWER number means higher density. Know your tool's metric!

What to do (as demonstrated)

1. Select the block.
2. Open the settings panel.
3. Tap Density and enter 6.00 (Thicker coverage).
4. Tap Stitch Angle and enter 15.18 (Diagonal lay).

The “Why” (Physics of Embroidery)

• Density: Controls the thread packing. Sweet Spot: For standard 40wt thread on cotton, a standard density is safe. Going to 6.00 provides solid coverage but increases "push/pull." If you go too high, the design will feel like a bulletproof vest—stiff and uncomfortable.
• Stitch Angle: This controls the direction of the "pull."
  • Sensory Anchor: Run your finger over a finished satin stitch. It should feel smooth, like a ribbon. If it feels rough or grainy, your angle might be fighting the weave of the fabric.
  • Distortion Control: Never run a long stitch angle parallel to the stretch of a t-shirt; it will distort the fabric. An angle of 15-45 degrees is usually safer for stability.

Use the Light Canvas Fabric Preset in Wavenet Spark the Right Way (Block-Only), and Let Underlay Do Its Job

In the tutorial, Spark applies Preset Fabrics → Light Canvas. This automatically changes the Density to 4.50 and adjusts the underlay.

What to do (as shown)

1. With the block selected, go to Preset Fabrics.
2. Scroll and choose Light Canvas.
3. Confirm the preset applies.

The critical detail the video states clearly

This preset applies to this block only, not the entire design. This is a common trap: if you apply a preset to one part of a design but not the rest, you will get inconsistent coverage.

Why experienced digitizers focus on Underlay

The preset likely adds "Underlay"—the foundation stitches that happen before the visible top stitches.

• Visual Check: Look for a grid or lattice pattern stitching first.
• Function: Underlay staples the fabric to the stabilizer. Without it, your top density of 4.50 will sink into the canvas and look messy. It is the "primer" before the "paint."

Motif 1019, Step Pattern 031, and Basic Step G79: How to Experiment with Spark Stitch Types Without Wasting Hours

The tutorial explores changing standard fills to texture patterns: Motif 1019, Step Pattern 031, and Basic Step G79.

What to do (as demonstrated)

1. Select the target block.
2. Open Stitch Type.
3. Browse the visual catalog (grid of blue patterns).
4. Select a motif and look at the preview.

Watch out: “Looks good on screen” vs. “Stitches clean”

The video shows a moment of judgment: “No, it’s too sparse… Much better!” This is the most important skill to learn.

The "Sparsity" Trap: A motif that looks open and airy on screen often result in "gapping" on fabric. If the fabric is dark and the thread is light, the fabric will show through gaps. Use motifs for:

• Large back-jacket designs (to save stitch count).
• Decorative borders.
• Avoid motifs on small text or tiny details; they will just look like messy thread nests.

The “Ugly Hole” Feature in Spark: When to Remove a Hole in a Block (and When It’s Actually Useful)

Spark allows you to poke a hole in a fill block. The tutorial attempts this, decides it looks ugly, and removes it.

Symptom → Cause → Fix (from the tutorial)

• Symptom: The hole exposes raw fabric in a way that disrupts the visual flow.
• Cause: The shape of the hole clashed with the "Sun" element.

When to keep the hole: In professional production (like thick sportswear), we use holes to reduce "Bulletproof Embroidery." If you layer a bird on top of a sun, remove the sun stitches behind the bird. This reduces thickness and prevents needle breaks.

“Frame Is Too Close to the Hoop”: Resize the Border Block So You Don’t Stitch Into the Hoop Area

The tutorial explicitly notes the frame is too close to the hoop edge. This is a critical safety intervention.

Why this matters beyond the software

If your design touches the grey safety line on the screen, you are playing a dangerous game. Physical embroidery hoops have thick walls; if the needle bar hits the plastic hoop, you can knock the machine out of timing or shatter a needle.

The Upgrade Calculation: If you find yourself constantly resizing borders or shrinking designs because you can't get the hooping perfectly centered, the issue isn't the software—it's your mechanical process.

• Level 1 Fix: Resize in Spark (as shown).
• Level 2 Fix: Improve manual hooping skills (practice tactile alignment).
• Level 3 Fix (Tooling): Many professionals utilize hooping stations to mechanically guarantee the garment is centered in the hoop every single time. This eliminates the "fear factor" of border placement.

Applique in Wavenet Spark: Toggle Hold-Down Lines, Set Width 30.00, and Keep Density Under Control

The tutorial switches to Applique stitching, adjusting: Hold-down lines, Guide line length (25.00), Width (30.00), and Density (4.00).

What to do (as shown)

1. Select the block -> Choose Applique.
2. Toggle First/Second Hold down lines (These tack the fabric in place).
3. Set Width to 30.00 (This is your satin edge thickness).
4. Set Density to 4.00.

Practical Applique Advice

Applique saves stitch count but requires manual intervention (stopping the machine to trim fabric).

• The Frustration: Trimming extra fabric while the hoop is attached to the machine is awkward. Un-hooping causing the fabric to shift.
• The Modern Solution: This is the primary reason shops upgrade to a magnetic embroidery hoop. Magnetic frames allow you to make adjustments or access the fabric edge more easily, and because they hold fabric with clamping force rather than friction, there is less "Hoop Burn" or distortion when doing multi-step applique work.

Warning: Magnetic Hoop Safety. These are industrial tools, not fridge magnets. They carry a severe pinch hazard. Keep fingers clear of the snapping zone, and strictly keep them away from customers or operators with pacemakers.

Manual Digitizing the Bird in Spark: Delete the Old Block, Place Nodes, Close the Shape, Then Refine Curves

The tutorial concludes by deleting an auto-block and manually tracing the bird silhouette.

The Sensations of Manual Digitizing

• Click = Anchor: Think of every click as placing a thumb tack.
• Curve Logic: Fewer nodes = smoother curves. Beginners click 50 times for a circle; Pros click 4 times and adjust the handles.
• Closing the Shape: You must connect the last dot to the first to create a "fillable" container.

Stabilizer and Fabric Decision Tree: Choose Backing Like a Pro Before You Blame the File

You can edit density in Spark all day, but if your stabilizer is wrong, the design will fail. Use this decision tree before exporting.

The "Backing" Decision Tree:

1. Is the fabric stretchy (T-shirt/Polo)?
   • Yes: MUST use Cutaway stabilizer. (Tearaway will eventually tear, and the shirt will distort).
   • No: Proceed to step 2.
2. Is the fabric unstable/loose (Sweater/Towel)?
   • Yes: Use Cutaway (for base) + Water Soluble Topping (to keep stitches from sinking).
3. Is the fabric stable woven (Canvas/Denim)?
   • Yes: Tearaway is usually fine.
4. Is the item impossible to hoop (Bag/Cap)?
   • Yes: This is a mechanical issue. Use a "Fast Frame" or a magnetic hoop to clamp the difficult area rather than forcing it into a ring.

Setup Checklist: The Fastest Way to Avoid the Three Most Common Spark Editing Mistakes

Setup Checklist (Do this right before Export):

• Preset Consistency: Did I apply "Light Canvas" to only one block? If so, apply it to the others or match settings manually.
• Entry/Exit Check: Zoom out. Do I have cross-country travel lines that will leave ugly thread trails?
• Density Safety: Did I accidentally leave any large fill at a density higher than 6.00? (Risk of stiffness).
• Hooping Strategy: Do I need a template or a hoop master embroidery hooping station type workflow to ensure this border lands exactly where I digitized it?

Operation Checklist: Test Stitch Like a Production Shop (Even If You’re Just Learning)

Operation Checklist (Running the machine):

• The Scrap Test: Run the design on scrap fabric first. Never run a new file on final garment.
• First 100 Stitches: Watch the start. Does the thread catch immediately? If not, check your tail length.
• Sound Check: Listen for the rhythmic "thump-thump." A harsh "slap" usually means loose hoop tension.
• Pucker Check: If the fabric waves around the stitches, your density is likely too high for your stabilizer choice.

The Upgrade Path That Actually Makes Sense: When Better Hooping Beats More Editing

Software editing in Wavenet Spark gives you immense control, but it cannot fix physics.

• If your design is perfect in Spark but crooked on the shirt, the solution isn't software—it's hooping technique.
• If your design looks great but your wrists hurt from wrestling retail garments into standard hoops, the solution is tooling.

The Logic of Upgrading: If you are doing occasional hobby projects, standard hoops and careful editing are sufficient. However, if you are moving into production runs (50+ shirts), terms like magnetic embroidery hoop and hooping for embroidery machine become vital searches. These tools provide the mechanical consistency that software alone cannot achieve.

Furthermore, for those hitting the "Single Needle Limit" (too many color changes, too much downtime), this is the Criteria for upgrading to a multi-needle platform like a SEWTECH machine: when your time spent changing threads costs more than the monthly payment of a professional machine, it's time to switch.

Master the software blocks first, but respect the hardware reality. Happy stitching!

FAQ

• Q: In Wavenet Spark Advanced Editing Mode, how can a user edit one block without accidentally damaging the entire embroidery design?
  A: Edit in Wavenet Spark block-by-block and confirm the correct block is selected before changing any settings—this is common and very controllable.
  • Select: Click the exact target block (for example, the frame/border, not the sun or bird) before opening settings.
  • Verify: Zoom in and identify the block boundaries and handles so edits apply only to that element.
  • Change: Adjust one parameter at a time (entry/exit, density, angle), then re-check the preview.
  • Success check: Only the selected block updates in the preview; other design areas remain unchanged.
  • If it still fails: The section may be a stitch-format block (for example, imported stitch data), so expect limited density/underlay controls and use stitch-by-stitch editing or auto-block creation.
• Q: In Wavenet Spark, what is the safest way to move Entry Point and Exit Point markers to reduce travel stitches without creating ugly thread trails?
  A: Move the Entry Point and Exit Point markers so the exit of Block A sits close to the entry of Block B, minimizing trims and long jumps.
  • Enter: Switch to Advanced Editing Mode, then select the exact block to edit.
  • Drag: Grab the yellow path endpoints (circular markers) and reposition start/end to shorter routes.
  • Compare: Zoom out and look for “cross-country” travel lines that would leave visible trails.
  • Success check: The machine path looks tighter in preview and stitch flow would sound more continuous (fewer stop-trim-jump cycles).
  • If it still fails: Re-check block order/sequence and confirm internal holes are not forcing trims and jumps.
• Q: In Wavenet Spark, how should a user approach Density 6.00 and Stitch Angle 15.18 adjustments to avoid puckering or “bulletproof” embroidery?
  A: Treat Density 6.00 as a heavier fill and change conservatively—density and angle can quickly increase push/pull and stiffness.
  • Start: Change density and angle in small steps, especially on large fill areas.
  • Match: Consider the real fabric (the blog example uses light canvas) before pushing density higher.
  • Observe: Watch for sharp angle changes combined with heavy density, which can increase distortion risk.
  • Success check: The stitched area stays flat (no waves/puckers) and feels firm but not overly stiff.
  • If it still fails: Reduce density and rely more on proper underlay and correct stabilizer choice rather than forcing coverage with extra stitches.
• Q: In Wavenet Spark, why does the Preset Fabrics “Light Canvas” change settings for only one block, and how can a user avoid inconsistent coverage across the design?
  A: The “Light Canvas” preset applies to the selected block only, so apply it consistently (or manually match settings) across all relevant blocks.
  • Apply: Select each block one-by-one and apply the Light Canvas preset where needed.
  • Check: Compare density/underlay between blocks so one area doesn’t look thinner or thicker than the rest.
  • Inspect: Look for underlay behavior (foundation stitches) before the top stitches.
  • Success check: Coverage looks uniform across blocks, and the stitch-out does not show sudden differences in texture or opacity.
  • If it still fails: Audit any blocks that were not digitized natively (limited settings) and consider re-blocking or manual adjustments.
• Q: In Wavenet Spark, how can a user prevent “Frame is too close to the hoop” problems and avoid a needle strike on the embroidery hoop?
  A: Resize or reposition the border/frame block so the design stays safely inside the hoop boundary—never stitch into the hoop area.
  • Flag: Treat any design element near the on-screen boundary as a real-world collision risk.
  • Resize: Reduce the border/frame block size (as shown in the tutorial) before exporting.
  • Plan: Decide hooping strategy early so the border lands where it was digitized, not “almost” centered.
  • Success check: The border sits clearly inside the safe area on screen and stitches without violent contact or sudden stops.
  • If it still fails: Stop the run immediately if impact is suspected and re-check hoop placement and design size before restarting.
• Q: During embroidery machine operation, what does a sharp “click-click” sound indicate, and what should a user do immediately to prevent needle or needle plate damage?
  A: A sharp “click-click” often indicates needle deflection—stop immediately because continuing can cause a needle strike and expensive damage.
  • Stop: Pause the machine the moment the sound appears.
  • Inspect: Check needle condition and verify the design is not overly dense or forcing aggressive direction changes.
  • Confirm: Ensure basic consumables are right before restarting (fresh 75/11 needle, full bobbin, needed temporary spray adhesive).
  • Success check: After correction, stitching sounds rhythmic and smooth instead of sharp clicking.
  • If it still fails: Back off density/angle edits and run a scrap test before returning to the final garment.
• Q: What are the key safety rules for using a magnetic embroidery hoop during applique work to reduce hoop burn and distortion?
  A: Use magnetic embroidery hoops carefully to improve access and reduce distortion, but treat them as pinch-hazard tools and keep them away from pacemakers.
  • Keep clear: Keep fingers out of the snap/clamp zone when closing the magnetic frame.
  • Control access: Do not allow customers or untrained operators to handle the magnetic hoop.
  • Plan applique: Use magnetic holding force to simplify multi-step applique handling and reduce friction-related hoop burn.
  • Success check: Fabric stays clamped without excessive ring marks, and applique steps are easier to access without shifting.
  • If it still fails: Re-check hooping technique and stabilizer choice, because magnetic clamping improves consistency but cannot override incorrect backing or extreme density choices.
• Q: When Wavenet Spark editing looks correct but the stitch-out is still crooked, puckered, or inconsistent, what is the practical upgrade path from technique to tooling to production capacity?
  A: Diagnose in layers: optimize settings first, then fix hooping consistency with better hooping tools, then consider multi-needle production only when downtime becomes the real cost driver.
  • Level 1 (Technique): Re-check preset consistency, entry/exit travel lines, and density safety limits before export.
  • Level 2 (Tooling): Improve hooping repeatability with better hooping methods/tools (especially if borders keep landing off-center).
  • Level 3 (Capacity): Move to a multi-needle workflow when thread-change time and stoppages cost more than upgrading equipment.
  • Success check: Scrap tests stitch straight and stable with fewer trims/jumps, less pucker, and repeatable placement.
  • If it still fails: Stop blaming the file—re-run the stabilizer decision tree (cutaway vs tearaway vs topping) and confirm fabric behavior matches the design’s density and stitch direction.