Threading the Bernette b70 DECO / b79 Without the “Mystery Tension” Drama: The One Tab That Makes or Breaks Your Stitching

If you’ve ever stared at your Bernette b70 DECO or Bernette b79 and thought, “I swear I threaded it… so why does it sew/embroider like it’s possessed?”—you’re not alone. I’ve watched this exact scenario play out for decades: you press start, hear a grinding noise, and look under the fabric to see a bird's nest of thread.

The machine isn't broken. Usually, it's a matter of physics and a single, tiny routing choice up top that quietly disconnects the tension system.

This post rebuilds the full threading sequence, transforming it from a "guess-and-check" struggle into a production-grade standard operating procedure. We will cover the specific sensory checks—what you should feel and hear—that experienced operators use to guarantee success before a single stitch is formed.

The Calm-Down Check: Bernette b70 DECO / b79 Threading Is Usually “User Error,” Not a Broken Machine

The creator says it plainly: it felt hard until someone physically showed the path, and then it became easy. That’s the real story with the Bernette b70 DECO and b79—once the thread is actually seated where the machine expects it, the whole system behaves.

Two things can be true at once:

1. You can follow the general path correctly (visually).
2. You can still miss one small internal latch that keeps the thread from engaging the tension discs.

When this happens, you have zero tension. The machine feeds thread uncontrollably, causing loops on the back and eventually jamming the hook.

So we’re going to thread it the same way every time, using "touch-and-feel" anchors to confirm engagement. We aren't just "putting thread in a slot"; we are mechanically engaging a system.

The “Hidden” Prep Under the Top Lid: Spool Pin, Spool Cap, and Clearing the Storage Area

Open the top lid. In the video, the accessory storage area is used like a mini tool tray (shears, clips, etc.), and the first move is simply clearing it out so nothing interferes with the thread path.

Step 1: The Spool Foundation Place your thread spool onto the horizontal spool pin. Note the direction: the thread should unwind underneath the spool, not over the top, to reduce twisting (check your manual, as some cross-wound spools differ, but consistency is key).

Step 2: The Spool Cap - The "Goldilocks" Fit Secure it with a spool cap so the spool doesn’t wobble while embroidering.

• Too small: The spool rattles and catches on the pin's notch.
• Too big: The thread gets trapped behind the cap.
• Just right: The cap diameter matches the spool base closely.

Why this matters: A wobbling spool creates "micro-jerks" in tension. At 800 stitches per minute, these micro-jerks look like uneven satin stitches on your final product.

If you’re building a smoother workflow for high-volume jobs, organizing your workspace is critical. Many pros use a dedicated hooping station for embroidery machine to keep tools like snips and tweezers off the machine bed, ensuring the thread path remains the only thing in motion.

Prep Checklist (Pre-Flight):

• Clearance: Top lid fully open and accessory storage area cleared.
• Stability: Thread spool seated fully; spool cap installed snugly (no "chatter" when you tap the spool).
• Flow: Thread tail pulled free so it creates a smooth arc.
• Cleanliness: Quick visual wipe-down. (Hidden Consumable: Keep a can of compressed air or a micro-brush nearby—dust bunnies here cause drag).

Warning: Keep shears, seam rippers, and metal tools out of the top storage area while threading. If a loose tool vibrates against the thread during operation, it can nick the fiber (causing fraying) or scratch the plastic guides, creating permanent burrs that snag thread forever.

The One Tiny Tab That Controls Everything: Seating the Thread on the RIGHT Side of the Bernette Top Tension Latch

This is the critical step in the video, and it’s where 90% of “my machine hates me” stories begin.

After you bring the thread under the first top guide/tab, you’ll reach the area with a small internal tab/latch inside the top thread channel. The creator shows a macro close-up and explains the mistake she used to make: she would bring the thread around and down, but it wasn’t catching on that latch.

The Golden Rule of Tension Engagement:

1. Hold the thread with two hands (flossing style). One hand near the spool, one hand guiding the end.
2. Pull the thread taut.
3. Guide it specifically to the RIGHT side of the small internal tension tab/latch.

Sensory Check (The "Floss Test"): Don't just look—feel.

• When you pull the thread down into the tension area, you should feel a distinct mechanical resistance, similar to sliding floss between teeth or tightening a zip-tie.
• Snap Sound: You might hear a faint, dull click or thump as it seats between the tension discs.
• The Fail State: If the thread slides effortlessly like it's floating on top of the plastic, you missed the discs. Stop. Go back.

If it sits on the LEFT side, the thread bypasses the tension spring entirely. You will get zero tension, regardless of what the screen says.

The Vertical Thread Path on the Bernette b70 DECO / b79: Down the Right Channel, U-Turn, Up the Left

Once the thread is correctly on the right side of that top latch and you've felt the resistance, the video routes the thread through the front channels.

The Flow:

1. Maintain Tension: Keep holding the thread slightly taut with your right hand near the spool while your left hand pulls down. This prevents the thread from jumping out of the pretension discs.
2. The Descent: Pull it down the right vertical channel.
3. The U-Turn: Loop it under the U-turn marker at the bottom.
4. The Ascent: Bring it up the left vertical channel.

The creator points out a metal tab in the first channel. Whether the thread goes left or right of this specific lower metal tab matters less than the vertical momentum, but aim for a straight, vertical line.

Pro Habit: If you let the thread go slack here, it can twist. Twisted thread shreds. Keep it "taught like a guitar string" (gently) until you reach the top lever.

If you are new to complex hooping for embroidery machine projects, you might be tempted to rush this part to get to the sewing. Don't. Threading is the "foundation"; hooping is the "framing." Both require valid structure.

Don’t Skip the Take-Up Lever: The Metal Eyelet That Keeps Stitches Even

At the top of the left channel, the video shows the take-up lever. This lever moves up and down rapidly during stitching to pull the knot tight.

The Action: Route the thread from right to left around the metal take-up lever so it falls into the lever’s eyelet/slot.

Visual Check:

• Look closely: Is the thread inside the hole?
• Sometimes, thread can sit on top of the lever without entering the eyelet.
• Consequence: If missed, the thread won't be pulled up after the needle penetrates, leaving massive loops on the fabric surface.
  

The Needle-Area Guides: Behind the Flat Metal Bar, Then Behind the Wire Loop on the Needle Clamp

Gravity takes over now. Bring the thread down to the needle area. There are two specific guides here that minimize needle deflection (wobble).

1. The Upper Guide: Pass the thread behind the flat metal horizontal bar guide located just above the needle screw.
2. The Lower Guide (Critical): Hook it behind the small wire loop guide located directly on the needle clamp assembly.

These guides act like the final "funnel" for the thread.

Why this fails: Users often miss the wire loop because it's tiny.

• The Fix: Use a pair of precise, curved tweezers (a hidden consumable every embroiderer needs). It gives you the dexterity to slip the thread behind that wire without your fingers blocking the view.
  
  
  

The Semi-Automatic Needle Threader on the Bernette b70 DECO / b79: Use the Screen Diagram, Then Trim at the Side Cutter

The video demonstrates the semi-automatic needle threader sequence, which saves your eyesight but requires a specific order of operations.

The Sequence:

1. Lower the Presser Foot: (Safety first—this engages tension discs).
2. Engage: Depress the needle threader lever on the left (pull it down completely). It should lock into place or hold at the bottom.
3. Left Guide: Guide the thread under the left grey plastic prong.
4. Right Hook: Bring it across to the right, under the metal hook that passes through the needle eye.
5. Trim: Pull excess thread up to the side thread cutter on the machine housing to cut it. This ensures the "tail" is the exact right length to be pulled through.
6. Release: Let the lever go.

Pro Tip: Release the lever gently. If you let it snap back, the momentum can whip the delicate loop of thread right out of the needle eye. Watch for the loop to form, then pull it through to the back.

“My Lever Doesn’t Stay Down” and Other Real Beginner Panic Moments (What to Check First)

One commenter describes a common frustration: they pull the lever down, the directions appear on the screen, but their lever/foot doesn’t stay down.

Here is the troubleshooting logic used by technicians:

1. Is the needle height correct? The needle threader relies on the needle being in the highest position. Press the "Needle Up/Down" button once to reset the cycle. If the needle is slightly low, the hook hits the needle bar instead of passing through the eye.

2. Is the needle bent? Even a microscopic bend prevents the hook from aligning. Change your needle.

• Hidden Consumable: Always keep a pack of Titanium Topstitch 75/11 or Universal 80/12 needles. A fresh needle fixes 50% of "broken" threaders.

3. Operation Error: Make sure you are pulling the lever all the way down. There is often a "final millimeter" of travel where it clicks into position.

If these don't work, don't force it. The hook is delicate. Use the manual threading method (tweezers + eye) and have a dealer check it during your next service.

The “Why” Behind the Right-Side Latch: Tension Engagement, Thread Control, and Cleaner Embroidery

Let’s look at the physics.

On machines like the Bernette b70, the tension discs are hidden. When you floss the thread onto the RIGHT side of that tab, you are physically forcing the thread between two metal plates that squeeze it.

• Squeeze = Control. The machine releases thread only when the needle is ready.
• No Squeeze = Chaos. The thread falls off the spool faster than the needle moves, creating slack.

Dust Awareness: The creator was surprised by the dust visible on camera. Thread sheds. Over time, lint builds up between those tension discs, pushing them open.

• Maintenance: Once a month, "floss" the tension discs with a clean piece of un-waxed dental floss or a folded piece of cotton fabric (not the thread itself) to dislodge lint cakes.

Setup Like a Production Operator: A Simple Decision Tree for Fabric + Stabilizer (So Threading Isn’t the Only Thing You Fix)

The video focuses on threading, but many “tension problems” are actually physics problems caused by fabric shifting. If your thread is perfect but your fabric is loose, you will still get puckering.

Use this decision tree to stabilize your base (Standard Industry Practices):

Decision Tree: The "Foundation" Check

1. Is the fabric stretchy (T-shirt, Hoodie, Knit)?
   • Stabilizer: Cut-Away (Must use). The stitches need permanent support.
   • Hooping: Do not stretch the fabric. Lay it flat.
   • Risk: Hoop burn (shiny rings).
2. Is the fabric stable/woven (Canvas, Denim, Cotton)?
   • Stabilizer: Tear-Away is usually fine.
   • Hooping: Drum-tight (taut).
3. Is the fabric textured (Towel, Velvet, Fleece)?
   • Stabilizer: Tear-away (Bottom) + Water Soluble Topper (Top).
   • Reason: The topper prevents stitches from sinking into the pile.

The Upgrade Path: Reducing Hooping Trauma Traditional hoops rely on friction and muscle power. If you are struggling to hoop thick items (like heavy hoodies) or delicate items (like satin) without leaving marks:

• Level 1: Wrap your inner hoop with bias binding for grip.
• Level 2: Upgrade to a magnetic embroidery hoop.

Magnetic hoops use force rather than friction. They clamp down instantly without forcing an inner ring inside a tight garment, virtually eliminating "hoop burn" and saving your wrists from strain. For a machine like the b70/b79, finding a compatible magnetic frame can transform the experience from "fighting the hoop" to "click and go."

The Speed-Run Mindset: How to Thread Fast Without Missing the Critical Points

At the end of the video, the creator does a real-time speed run. Speed isn't about rushing; it's about flow.

The Muscle Memory Loop:

• Spool on.
• Cap tight.
• Right-hand tension.
• Click (Right side latch).
• Down, Up.
• Click (Take-up lever).
• Behind, Behind.
• Thread.

Setup Checklist (The "Green Light" Protocol):

• Thread Path: Confirmed "Click" sound/feel at the top tension latch.
• Take-Up Lever: Visually confirmed thread is inside the eyelet.
• Needle: Thread is behind the wire loop guide (prevents whipping).
• Bobbin: Bobbin is seated correctly with the thread pulled through the tension spring (ensure the bobbin spins counter-clockwise/pigtail shape if specified).
• Presser Foot: Lowered before starting (this engages the final tension).

If you’re setting up a workflow with multiple machine embroidery hoops pre-loaded for a project, perform this checklist every time you change thread colors.

Common Bernette b70 DECO / b79 Threading Symptoms: What You See, What It Usually Means, What to Do

Don't guess. Use this symptom table to diagnose instantly.

The Upgrade Path That Actually Makes Sense: When Better Hooping Tools Beat “Trying Harder”

Threading is a basic skill. Once you master it, you hit the next bottleneck: Production Speed.

If you are just doing one-off gifts, the standard tools are fine. But if you find yourself doing 20, 50, or 100 shirts for a local club, the physical strain of hooping becomes the enemy.

Criteria for Upgrading:

• Pain: Are your wrists hurting from tightening screws?
• Quality: Are you getting "ring marks" on dark fabrics?
• Volume: Are you spending more time hooping than sewing?

If you answer "Yes," consider the SEWTECH Magnetic Hoops.

• For the b70/b79: A magnetic hoop for bernette b79 allows you to float adjustments easily. You don't have to un-hoop to fix a wrinkle; just lift the magnet.
• For the Workflow: Users often search for bernette embroidery machine reviews looking for faster machines, but sometimes upgrading the hoop provides the speed boost you need without buying a new machine.

However, if your volume hits the point where a single-needle machine (threading every color change) is the bottleneck, look toward SEWTECH’s Multi-Needle Machines. They allow you to set up 10-15 colors at once—true "press and walk away" automation.

Warning: Magnetic Safety. Powerful magnetic hoops can pinch fingers severely. Slide the magnets apart; do not pull them apart. Danger: Keep away from pacemakers and implanted medical devices. Keep away from magnetic storage media and credit cards.

A Clean Finish Starts Before the First Stitch: Thread Waste, Consistency, and Shop Habits

The creator jokes about not wasting thread, but in a shop, waste = lost margin.

The "Start-Up" Routine: When you press start, hold the top thread tail for the first 3-4 stitches, then pause and trim it. This prevents the tail from being sucked into the bobbin area and creating a "mini-nest."

Operation Checklist (Go/No-Go):

• Tail held gently.
• First 5 stitches look clean.
• Machine sound is rhythmic (chug-chug-chug), not banging (CLACK-CLACK).

If the sound changes, stop immediately. A change in sound precedes a catastrophic jam.

The Fastest Way to Get Confident: Repeat the Same Threading Sequence Until Your Hands Memorize It

The video ends with a speed demonstration. This is your goal.

Homework: Tonight, without sewing a stitch, un-thread and re-thread your machine 10 times. Say the mantra: “Right side latch. Down right. Up left. Take-up Eye. Behind Bar. Behind Wire.”

Once your hands learn the path, the fear disappears. You stop worrying about the machine and start focusing on your art.

And when you are ready to stop fighting with fabric and start producing seamlessly, upgrading your toolkit with specialized magnetic hoops for embroidery machines is the professional step that protects your materials and your sanity. Happy stitching!

FAQ

• Q: How do I stop bird nesting underneath on a Bernette b70 DECO or Bernette b79 when the machine was “threaded correctly”?
  A: Re-thread the upper path and make sure the thread seats on the RIGHT side of the top tension latch, because missing that latch often creates near-zero upper tension.
  • Hold the thread with two hands (flossing style) and pull it taut before dropping it into the tension area.
  • Guide the thread deliberately to the RIGHT side of the small internal tab/latch at the top channel.
  • Re-run the vertical path: down the right channel, around the U-turn, up the left channel, then into the take-up lever eyelet.
  • Success check: Feel distinct resistance (like floss) and often a soft “click/thump” when the thread seats; if it slides freely, it missed the discs.
  • If it still fails: Confirm the take-up lever is actually threaded (not riding on top) and confirm the bobbin thread is seated in its tension spring path.
• Q: What is the correct spool cap size setup for a Bernette b70 DECO or Bernette b79 to prevent thread snags and uneven stitching?
  A: Use a spool cap that matches the spool base closely so the spool stays stable without trapping thread.
  • Install the spool on the horizontal spool pin and ensure thread unwinds smoothly (consistent direction per the machine manual).
  • Choose a cap that is not too small (prevents rattling/catching) and not too large (prevents thread trapping behind the cap).
  • Clear the top accessory/storage area so tools cannot interfere with the thread path.
  • Success check: Tap the spool lightly—there should be no “chatter” or wobble, and the thread should pull in a smooth arc.
  • If it still fails: Inspect the spool pin and guides for nicks/burrs and re-check the threading path for any place the thread is rubbing.
• Q: How do I confirm the Bernette b70 DECO or Bernette b79 take-up lever is threaded correctly to avoid “Check Upper Thread” problems?
  A: Always verify the thread is inside the take-up lever eyelet/slot, not sitting on top of the lever.
  • Thread up the left channel and route the thread from right to left into the metal take-up lever.
  • Pause and visually inspect the lever area before threading down to the needle.
  • Keep slight tension on the thread while routing so it does not jump out of guides.
  • Success check: You can clearly see the thread captured in the lever’s eyelet/slot; missed threading often shows as big loops or sudden upper-thread errors.
  • If it still fails: Re-thread from the spool and repeat the visual check; consider using a thread net for slippery thread as a control measure.
• Q: Which needle-area thread guides are commonly missed on a Bernette b70 DECO or Bernette b79, causing looping or unstable stitching?
  A: Thread behind both needle-area guides—behind the flat metal bar and behind the small wire loop on the needle clamp—because missing the wire loop is very common.
  • Route the thread down and pass it behind the flat metal horizontal bar above the needle screw.
  • Hook the thread behind the small wire loop guide on the needle clamp assembly (this one is easy to miss).
  • Use precise curved tweezers if fingers block visibility or dexterity.
  • Success check: The thread line runs cleanly down through both guides without popping forward when you gently tug the thread tail.
  • If it still fails: Re-check the take-up lever and the top tension latch seating (RIGHT side) before changing any tension settings.
• Q: What should I check first if the Bernette b70 DECO or Bernette b79 semi-automatic needle threader lever does not stay down?
  A: Do not force the needle threader; first set correct needle height and replace a suspect needle, because alignment is sensitive.
  • Press the Needle Up/Down control to ensure the needle is in the highest position.
  • Replace the needle if there is any chance it is bent (a fresh 75/11 or 80/12 needle often restores threader function).
  • Pull the needle threader lever all the way down—there is often a final millimeter where it engages.
  • Success check: The lever holds down and the hook passes cleanly through the needle eye to form a visible thread loop.
  • If it still fails: Use manual threading (tweezers + needle eye) and have the threader checked at the next service rather than risking damage.
• Q: What is the safe way to prevent needle breaks on a Bernette b70 DECO or Bernette b79 during embroidery?
  A: Keep hands off the hoop while the machine stitches, because pulling or resisting hoop movement can snap needles immediately.
  • Start the design and let the hoop travel freely—do not “help” the fabric feed by hand.
  • Confirm the needle is installed correctly and tightened before stitching.
  • Stop immediately if the machine sound changes from rhythmic to banging/clacking.
  • Success check: The machine runs with a steady, rhythmic sound and the hoop moves without resistance or deflection.
  • If it still fails: Re-check threading (especially the RIGHT-side tension latch) and replace the needle before restarting.
• Q: When should a Bernette b70 DECO or Bernette b79 user upgrade from standard hoops to a magnetic embroidery hoop for fewer hoop marks and faster workflow?
  A: Upgrade when hooping friction is causing hoop burn, wrist strain, or slow setup; start with technique fixes, then consider magnetic clamping for efficiency.
  • Level 1: Wrap the inner hoop with bias binding to improve grip and reduce ring marks.
  • Level 2: Switch to a magnetic embroidery hoop to clamp thick or delicate fabrics without forcing an inner ring (often reduces hoop burn and re-hooping time).
  • Level 3: If frequent color changes on a single-needle workflow become the bottleneck, consider a multi-needle machine for volume production.
  • Success check: The fabric holds securely with less distortion, and you can reposition with minimal effort (lift/replace the clamp rather than re-hooping).
  • If it still fails: Re-evaluate stabilizer choice (cut-away for stretch knits, tear-away for stable wovens, topper for textured fabrics) because “tension issues” may be fabric movement.
• Q: What magnetic hoop safety rules should Bernette b70 DECO or Bernette b79 users follow to avoid finger injuries and device risks?
  A: Treat magnetic hoops as pinch hazards and keep them away from medical implants and sensitive magnetic items.
  • Slide magnets apart to separate them; do not pull magnets straight apart with fingertips in the gap.
  • Keep magnetic hoops away from pacemakers and implanted medical devices.
  • Keep magnetic hoops away from magnetic storage media and credit cards.
  • Success check: Magnets separate and re-seat with controlled movement, and fingers never enter the pinch zone during placement.
  • If it still fails: Slow down the hooping step and reposition hands for leverage—magnetic force is strong and rushing is what causes injuries.