Table of Contents
Video reference: “How to Make Multi-Hooped Reversible Baby Bibs (5x7 Hoop)” by Stitch Delight
A soft, reversible baby bib that looks “factory made” — created entirely in a 5x7 hoop. This project shows how to build the bib as three embroidered panels, join them seamlessly, and finish with cam snaps for an instantly wearable result.
What you’ll learn
- The exact layering order for stabilizer, thin batting, and fabric so panels stitch flat
- How to appliqué and quilt within the hoop, then trim for clean edges
- The seamless-join method for left, right, and center panels
- How pressing improves stitch quality and finish
- How to add cam snaps securely, plus placement tips
Mastering Multi-Hooping for Baby Bibs
Multi-hooping lets you build a larger project from smaller hoopings — perfect for a bib that exceeds a single 5x7. You’ll embroider left and right side panels, then the center, and join them with a satin stitch that hides raw edges for a continuous look.
If you’re coming from other small-hoop projects, this flow will feel familiar: hoop stabilizer, add batting, add top fabric, stitch, trim, and repeat. The difference is how you prepare panel edges before joining: folding raw edges inward is the secret to a seamless result.
Quick check: Your hoop size should be 5x7. Any machine that supports a 5x7 field will work. This tutorial references a Brother model in use, but the sequence is the same across brands. brother 5x7 hoop
From the comments: A reader asked about digitizing for terry cloth. The channel notes that stitch spacing and compensation vary by software. Designs made for terry often work on cotton or lycra, but can be dense for very thin fabrics. Apply that principle if you digitize your own bib motifs.
Understanding the Multi-Hooping Concept
- You’ll stitch three front panels: left, right, and center.
- Each panel includes: initial placement stitch on stabilizer, batting tack-down, top fabric, quilting/appliqué, then a satin edge.
- The panels are joined by stitching them together in the hoop on the center panel, using careful alignment and folded raw edges for a seamless line.
Why fold edges before joining? Folding removes visible raw edges and prevents fraying where panels meet. This matters because the satin stitch that joins pieces is slightly raised and will frame any raw edge that peeks out.
Choosing the Right Stabilizer and Materials
- Stabilizer: Tear-away is recommended for easy cleanup at the end. Cut-away also works, but will need careful trimming next to stitches.
- Batting: Thin quilter’s batting only. Thick batting adds bulk and fights your satin edges.
- Fabrics: Any cotton for the bib, and either a printed satin or plain white/solid for appliqué panels (plain helps picture designs stand out).
- Thread: Polyester or rayon embroidery thread stitches cleanly; pressing later helps it contract slightly for crisper outlines.
Watch out: Keep fabric grain consistent across left, right, and center panels so the final bib reads as one continuous piece.
Prep
Gather tools and materials
- Embroidery machine and 5x7 hoop
- Tear-away stabilizer (pre-cut five pieces)
- Thin quilter’s batting (one piece per front panel)
- Fabrics for five panels plus one large back piece
- 505 spray (optional), sticky tape
- Scissors and pinking shears
- Iron and a wooden dowel (for turning/pushing seams)
- Cam snaps and cam snap press, sharp dowel/punch
Workspace: Use a clean, flat surface for cutting and pressing. Ensure fabrics are pre-cut to fit your hoop.
Pro tip: Use a plain, non-printed appliqué fabric for picture panels so motifs pop crisply against the background.
Checklist — Prep
- Five tear-away sheets cut to hoop size
- Thin batting for each front panel
- Five fabric pieces for the front; one large fabric piece for the back
- 505 spray, tape, and sharp scissors at hand
- Cam snaps press and parts ready for later
Step-by-Step Embroidery Process
Creating Individual Bib Panels
1) Hoop stabilizer and stitch first placement Hoop a single layer of tear-away stabilizer. Stitch the first step directly onto stabilizer — this outlines where batting will go. Ensure stabilizer is taut.
Quick check: You should see a clean outline on stabilizer only. machine embroidery hoops
2) Add and trim batting Lay thin batting over the outline and stitch the tack-down. You’ll see a slight offset; that’s intentional to keep batting out of the seam allowance. Trim the batting close to the stitch without nicking it.
Watch out: Cutting too close can weaken the tack-down. Use small, sharp scissors and trim with the tips angled slightly up.
3) Add top fabric and quilt the bottom section Place your main top fabric over the batting. Use 505 spray if you prefer extra hold. Stitch the bottom quilting that will show on the bib’s front. Smooth fabric to avoid puckers.
Pro tip: If your fabric has a visible grain or directional print, align it consistently across panels for that “one-piece” look at the end. hooping for embroidery machine
4) Add appliqué fabric and trim Stitch the placement for the appliqué, lay your appliqué fabric (plain for picture panels or printed satin for decorative ones), then run the thin zigzag tack-down. Trim away only the appliqué layer; don’t cut the base.
Quick check: The tack-down should be even, and only the top appliqué layer should be trimmed.
5) Finish the first two side panels Complete any quilting or picture stitching, then the final satin stitch for those panels. Remove the panels, trim stabilizer close along straight edges, and repeat for the second side. Keep curved edges untrimmed for now; you’ll clean up later. This prepares the left and right pieces for joining.
Pro tip: Keep both side panels in separate labeled piles to avoid mixing left/right.
Checklist — Embroidery Process
- Stabilizer hooped flat and stitched placement visible
- Batting tacked down with offset; excess trimmed cleanly
- Top fabric smooth; quilting lines even
- Appliqué tacked and top-only trimmed
- Left and right panels complete, straight edges neatly trimmed
The Art of Appliqué and Quilting
- Appliqué fabric choice: Plain for clarity when stitching picture designs; printed satin for decorative blocks.
- Quilt lines: These add texture to the base fabric and help the bib feel padded without bulk.
- Skip option: If you prefer a smooth look, you can skip the quilting step on your machine.
Pro tip: A commenter loved the “fussy cutting” of satin to center scenic elements. Position prints intentionally—center a motif so it frames the bib area you want to highlight.
Seamless Assembly: Bringing Your Bib Together
Joining Panels for a Polished Look
Prepare the top pieces (left and right) The top pieces begin like the earlier panels: hoop stabilizer, stitch placement, add thin batting and trim, add top fabric, and quilt. Leave the small flap at the inner edge unstitched so you can fold it under for a clean midline join later.
Before you place these on the center panel, trim stabilizer from the back where the raw edge will meet another panel. Fold that raw edge inward to remove fraying risk, secure with a little 505 spray, and hold with a small piece of tape if needed.
Create the center panel Hoop stabilizer, run the placement, add batting and trim, and place the base fabric (match the grain to the sides for a unified look). Quilt and add any appliqué as you did before. You may skip the quilting if you prefer a plain front.
Assemble the front Lightly spray the underside of the folded side panels and position them precisely on the center panel. Tuck all raw edges. Secure with tape. Run the final satin stitch that joins the three pieces. Pause just after the underlay runs to trim any stray threads that might peek from beneath the satin.
Outcome: The join line should appear continuous, with no raw edges visible.
Pro tip: Before the satin begins, quickly inspect the seam line. Trimming tiny wisps now yields that “wasn’t done in a small hoop” finish.
Finishing Touches: Trimming, Pressing, and Sewing
Clean up the back and press Remove the embroidered front from the hoop and tear away stabilizer. If you used cut-away, trim carefully right next to the stitches. On the back, trim excess fabric that adds bulk around the satin edges.
Press thoroughly with an iron. Heat slightly shrinks polyester or rayon thread and flattens seams, tightening outlines and smoothing the surface.
Add the back fabric and stitch Place your large back fabric right sides together with the embroidered front. Stitch all around with a quarter-inch seam allowance, leaving an opening at the bottom for turning. Trim the seam with pinking shears so it turns smoothly and resists fraying, leaving a small “tail” at the opening to fold in neatly later.
Turn and shape Turn the bib right side out through the opening. Use a wooden dowel to gently push out curves for crisp edges. Press again to set the shape. Fold the opening edges inward and close with a small machine stitch along the embroidery line, or hand stitch if you prefer an invisible finish.
Checklist — Assembly & Finish
- Stabilizer removed and back trimmed clean
- Pressed flat before sewing the back
- Quarter-inch seam sewn with opening left at bottom
- Edges pinked; bib turned without distortion
- Opening closed neatly after final press
Adding Functional Fasteners: Cam Snaps
Selecting and Attaching Your Snaps Gather two caps (pointy posts), one male part, and one female part. Use a sharp dowel to pierce the hole where you want the snaps on the top tabs. Place one cap post through from the front, seat the matching male or female part, and compress with the cam snap press using the correct dies. Repeat on the other tab with the opposite part so the bib closes properly.
Quick check: Snaps should sit flat and click cleanly. If they twist or feel loose, check die alignment and press again.
Tips for a Durable and Professional Finish
- Placement: Put snaps at the tab corners for a simple, reliable close.
- Tools: Switch dies when changing from male to female components.
- Feel: A firm squeeze on the press should lock the parts securely.
Why Multi-Hooping is a Game-Changer for Small Hoops
With careful sequencing and a folded-edge join, you can produce a bib that reads as one continuous piece — even in a modest 5x7 hoop. Aligning the grain across panels and trimming stray fibers before the satin stitch are small steps that elevate the result.
This project is a clear example of multi hooping machine embroidery — building a larger, polished item by uniting multiple, precisely aligned hoopings.
Care and Maintenance of Your Embroidered Bibs
- Washing: Tear-away remnants should already be removed; any lingering bits soften with laundering. A gentle wash preserves stitching.
- Pressing after wash: A light press refreshes the crispness of the satin edges.
- Snap check: Before gifting or reuse, ensure snaps still hold firmly.
Pro tip: Because pressing tightens thread slightly, a quick re-press after the first wash restores that “new” look.
Troubleshooting & Recovery
Symptom: Puffy seams at joins
- Likely cause: Batting or fabric caught in the seam allowance.
- Fix: Ensure you trim the batting to the offset tack-down edge and fold raw edges inward before joining.
Symptom: Raw threads show at the midline
- Likely cause: Edges weren’t fully folded or trimmed before the satin stitch.
- Fix: Pause after the underlay, lift the hoop, and trim stray fibers, then continue.
Symptom: Bulky bib back
- Likely cause: Excess fabric not trimmed after embroidery.
- Fix: Trim the back closely around satin areas before adding the backing; use pinking shears on the final seam.
Symptom: Snaps loosen over time
- Likely cause: Incorrect die or insufficient pressure during pressing.
- Fix: Confirm die match to your snap part and re-press. Replace if damaged.
Quick isolation tests
- Run a scrap test of satin coverage on a small fabric-batting sandwich to verify your trim and fold technique.
- Snap test on a fabric offcut before attaching to the bib.
From the comments
Q: What stitch spacing and pull comp should I use when digitizing for terry cloth? Will those settings work on other fabrics? A: It varies by software. A spacing shown as 0.40 mm in one might be 0.32 mm in another due to different default compensation. Designs for terry usually work on cotton or lycra, but may be dense for very thin fabrics.
Community notes
- Appliqué fabric choice matters: A viewer praised fussy cutting printed satin to showcase a scenic element—intentional placement goes a long way.
- Compliments flowed for the neat, seamless join; the folded-edge method is what makes it look “big-hoop” professional.
Appendix: Setup rationale and micro-choices
- Tear-away vs. cut-away: Tear-away simplifies cleanup; cut-away demands closer trimming. If you prefer extra stability, cut-away is viable but plan time to trim.
- Thin batting: The tack-down offset is designed for a slim layer. Thin batting gives loft without fighting your turn.
- Quilting optionality: You can skip quilting for a smoother front; the design still stitches and assembles as intended.
- Pressing: Heat helps polyester/rayon thread contract slightly, tightening outlines and improving finish — especially along the satin edges.
Equipment context
- Any capable embroidery model with a 5x7 hoop works. The flow shown uses a Brother unit as an example, but steps are universal. brother embroidery machine
Terminology touchpoints
- Panels: left, right, and center
- Tack-down: Stitches that secure batting/appliqué before trimming
- Underlay: Foundation that runs before the satin stitch; pause after it to tidy edges
Additional technique tie-ins
- This project uses the standard hooping sequence — stabilizer, batting, main fabric, quilting/appliqué — a pattern you’ll reuse often. embroidery machine hoops
Tooling language refresher
- The 5x7 field is a common small-hoop workspace; if your frame supports that area, you can reproduce the entire build precisely. hoop embroidery machine
Planning ahead
- Cut five stabilizer sheets and five fabric pieces to hoop size at the start. Pre-label left and right pieces to maintain orientation.
Final confidence check
- After the satin join, your front should look continuous; after the last press, edges should be smooth, and the bib should lie flat. At the snaps, each side should click securely without twisting.
Resources for terminology
- If you’re new to sequential hooping, think of this as a repeatable blueprint you can adapt for other multi-panel builds. machine embroidery hoops
Project scope reminder
- This guide addresses the blank panel style and fully covers the flow for quilting, appliqué, and finishing. Use plain appliqué fabric when adding picture designs so they remain crisp and legible.
Field fit reminder
- Any machine that can accept a 5x7 field is compatible with this process. The hoop size is the only hard requirement. embroidery hoop brother