Kimberbell Candy Corn Quilt Shop Flying Geese (Block 11): The “Quilt-Last” Embrilliance Hack That Keeps Your Spiderwebs Visible

When a Kimberbell block instruction tells you to quilt first and then piece on top, it technically works—but it buries the detailed quilting you paid for under layers of fabric. Block 11 (Flying Geese) in the Kimberbell Candy Corn Quilt Shop series is a rare exception where the background quilting is engineered to happen after the block is built. That small change in stitch order is the secret to why this block looks professional rather than homemade.

If you’ve ever felt that familiar tightening in your chest—the specific panic of being one color change away from ruining a project—take a breath. We are going to turn this anxiety into a controlled engineering process. You will not just "sew"; you will stitch a template, place fabrics with intent, manage bulk like a structural engineer, and run the spiderweb quilting as a final victory lap.

A note on "Intermediate": In embroidery, "intermediate" doesn't mean "hard." It means unforgiving of sloppy prep. This block demands accuracy in centering and trimming. Once you understand the physics of the layers, it becomes a repeatable, stress-free process.

Make Embrilliance Do the Heavy Lifting: Deleting Batting/Fabric Tackdowns So Background Quilting Stitches Last

The "quilt-last" strategy isn't magic; it's file management. We start in Embrilliance (or your preferred editor) to manipulate the stitch order.

1. Open the Flying Geese file.
2. Merge the background quilting design (the specific Halloween motif for this block).
3. Surgical Deletion: In the object list, highlight and delete the standard preparatory steps:
   • Batting placement
   • Batting tackdown
   • Fabric placement
   • Fabric tackdown
4. The Result: You should be left with only the background quilting, which you will run after the piecing is complete.
5. Save: Label this file clearly (e.g., "FlyingGeese_BKG_ONLY").

No Software? No Problem. You can replicate this at the machine console. Load the design using your machine’s "Add/Merge" function. Then, manually skip the first four color stops to jump straight to the quilting stitches.

Expert Insight: If you plan to do ITH (In-The-Hoop) quilting regularly, learning basic file editing is the highest ROI skill you can acquire. It gives you control over the final texture of your quilt.

The “Hidden” Hooping Prep for a 5x7 Hoop: Crosshairs on Poly Mesh + Batting Centered With Only 1/4" to Spare

This block lives in a 5x7 hoop, and the margins are razor-thin. This is where most beginners fail before taking the first stitch.

• Stabilizer: Use Poly Mesh (No Show Mesh). It provides stability without adding bulk to the seams.
• Marking: Draw crosshairs directly on the stabilizer using a ruler and a water-soluble pen.
• Batting: Center a 5x7 piece of batting exactly on those crosshairs.

The Physics of Failure: You are trimming the finished unit to 4.5" x 6.5". With a 7" piece of batting, you have a safety margin of only 0.25 inches on the top and bottom. If you hoop crookedly by just a few degrees, your block will not square up later.

The Tool Upgrade Logic: If you struggle with "Hoop Burn" (those shiny rings left on fabric) or find your batting shifts while you try to tighten the screw, this is the moment where a magnetic embroidery hoop transforms your workflow. By clamping the sandwich magnetically rather than friction-locking it, you eliminate distortion instantly.

Prep Checklist (Verify OR Fail):

• Hoop Check: Are you using the 5x7 hoop? Is the inner ring seated fully?
• Tactile Check: The poly mesh should be taut but not warped. It should sound like a dull drum when tapped.
• Visual Check: Crosshairs are drawn and visibly centered in the plastic hoop template.
• Batting: Cut exactly to 5x7 and centered.
• Tools: Ruler, Frixion marker, and sharp appliqué scissors are within arm's reach.
  

Stitch Page 39, Stitch #1: Why the Black Template Lines Matter More Than You Think

The first operation is the piecing template—the roadmap of triangle outlines stitched directly onto the batting.

Becky uses black thread here. This isn't aesthetic; it's functional. When you are placing fabric face-down later, you need high contrast to see the line through the batting texture.

Sensory Diagnostics: When stitching on lofty batting, listen to your machine.

• Normal: A rhythmic, soft thump-thump.
• Warning: A loud slap or aggressive grinding sound. This indicates the presser foot is too low and dragging on the batting. Raise your presser foot height (if your machine allows) or check that the batting isn't flagging (bouncing) up to hit the needle bar.
  

Place Fabric A (Right Side Up) Without Guessing: Cover the Entire “Geese A” Zone

After the template outlines are stitched:

1. Place Fabric A (purple in the video) right side up.
2. Ensure it fully covers the section marked "Geese A."

The Goal: Zero gaps. The next placement line must land on fabric, not bare batting.

Expert Note on Stability: If you find that your fabric "creeps" or shifts as the machine moves, it usually means your hoop tension is loose. Revisit your hooping for embroidery machine fundamentals: the stabilizer determines 80% of the stitch quality. If the foundation moves, the house falls down.

The Flip-and-Crease Move for Fabric B: Face Down, Stitch, Then Fold Up Flat Against the Seam Line

Now we execute the standard ITH maneuver for Fabric B (Spiderweb print).

The Sequence:

1. Place: Fabric B face down over the placement line.
2. Stitch: Run the seam stitch.
3. Fold: Flip the fabric up to reveal the right side.
4. The Critical Action: Finger crease firmly.

Sensory Check: Run your fingernail along the seam. You should feel a sharp, defined ridge, not a bubbly roll. A "bubbly" fold creates a false edge that will get caught in the presser foot later.

Bulk Control Inside the Hoop: Mark 1/4" From the Seam, Then Trim the Under-Layer So the Block Stays Flat

This step separates "homemade" from "professional." Unchecked bulk causes needle deflection and distorted quilt blocks.

The Procedure:

1. Remove the hoop from the machine (do not unhoop the fabric!).
2. Use a ruler and Frixion marker to draw a line 1/4" away from the seam.
3. Fold back the top fabric and trim away the excess under-layer close to that line.

Why This Matters (Physics): Every layer of fabric adds thickness. Thickness increases friction against the presser foot. Increased friction causes the fabric to drag, leading to misaligned triangles.

Warning: Mechanical Safety
When trimming inside the hoop, keep your scissor blades parallel to the stabilizer. One accidental snipping of the Poly Mesh ruins the entire block. Use "Duckbill" or double-curved scissors to lift the fabric away from the danger zone.

Batting in the Seam Allowance? Ideally, you trim the batting after the tackdown to keep the seam flat. If you forget (like Becky admits to doing), don't panic. Just ensure you square up perfectly later. However, for a truly flat quilt, trimming batting out of the seam allowance is the gold standard.

The Tape Trick That Prevents Presser-Foot Snags: Secure Folded Fabric Only for the Next Placement Stitch

Folded fabric has "memory"—it wants to curl back up. If a corner lifts, the embroidery foot will catch it, potentially ruining the project or breaking a needle.

The Fix: Use a small strip of embroidery tape (like Kimberbell paper tape) to hold the fold flat. Stitch the next placement line, then remove the tape immediately.

Workflow Optimization: If you are doing this trimming and taping dance repeatedly, the constant clipping and unclipping of a standard hoop is exhausting. A brother luminaire magnetic hoop or similar magnetic frame system allows you to pop the hoop off, trim on a flat surface, and snap it back on in seconds without disturbing the fabric tension.

Warning: Magnetic Hoop Safety
Pinch Hazard: Magnetic hoops use powerful N52 neodymium magnets. Keep fingers clear of the snapping zone to avoid painful blood blisters.
Medical Device Safety: Keep these magnets at least 6 inches away from pacemakers and insulin pumps.

Repeat the “Place, Stitch, Fold, Crease” Rhythm for the Remaining Geese Sections (And Trim Bulk Before It Snowballs)

Continue the process for the remaining sections.

The Law of Cumulative Error: "Snowballing" happens when tiny amounts of excess bulk in step 1 and step 2 compound to create a 3mm error by step 5.

• Casual Hobbyist: Trims bulk "mostly."
• Production Standard: Trims bulk every single time the hoop feels thick or the fold fights back.

If the hoop feels noticeably thicker under the foot, stop and trim. Your needle will thank you.

The Metallic Moment: Running Kingstar Silver for Spiderweb Background Quilting Without Constant Breaks

Becky switches to Kingstar Silver Metallic for the final 4-minute quilting pass. Metallic thread is beautiful but notoriously temperamental.

Empirical Settings for Metallic Success: If you encounter breaking or shredding, adjust your variables to this "Safe Zone":

1. Needle: Switch to a Topstitch 90/14 or a dedicated Metallic Needle. The larger eye reduces friction.
2. Speed (SPM): Slow down. If your machine runs at 1000 stitches per minute (SPM), drop it to 600-700 SPM. Metallic thread heats up and snaps at high speeds.
3. Tension: Metallic thread is stiffer. Lower your top tension slightly until you see a balanced stitch.
4. Path: Use a thread stand to allow the thread to unwind vertically, preventing twisting.

Design Note: As comments noted, ensure there is contrast. Silver on light grey disappears. For commercial viability, choose threads that pop (like glowing orange or black) so the customer sees the value of the quilting.

The “Backside Squaring” Save: Use the Stabilizer Crosshairs When the Batting Lines Disappear

After the final stitch, unhoop the block. You now need to trim it to 4.5" x 6.5", but your batting reference lines are covered by fabric.

The Professional Workaround: Flip the block over. The crosshairs you drew on the poly mesh stabilizer in Step 1 are still visible. Use these lines to center your clear ruler for the final trim. This ensures your flying geese are mathematically centered, even if the fabric edges look slightly organic.

Setup Checklist (Final Quilting Pass):

• Tape Removal: All holding tape is removed from the stitch path.
• Thread Path: Metallic thread is feeding smoothly (no tangles).
• Needle Check: Needle is not bent or burred from hitting thick seams earlier.
• Hoop Check: Hoop is securely locked into the embroidery arm.
  

The Finished Flying Geese Block: What “Good” Looks Like (Points Not Tipped, Quilting Visible)

Inspect your final output against these quality metrics:

1. Sharp Points: The triangles should form sharp points, not "tipped" (flattened) tops.
2. Flatness: The block should lie flat on the table, not domed like a turtle shell (indicates excess batting/bulk).
3. Quilting: The spiderweb lines are continuous, with no skipped stitches in the metallic thread.

Health & ROI Note: If you plan to scale this up—making 20 blocks for a full quilt—assess your physical fatigue. The repetitive motion of hooping thick layers is a leading cause of wrist strain in embroiderers. Upgrading to a brother 5x7 magnetic hoop isn't just about speed; it's about ergonomics. Reducing the force needed to hoop preserves your hands for the sewing that counts.

Fabric + Stabilizer Decision Tree for ITH Quilting Blocks: Stop Guessing, Start Matching Materials to the Job

Don't guess. Follow this logic path to prevent puckering and shifting.

1. Is your fabric Standard Quilting Cotton (stable)?
   • YES: Use Poly Mesh + Batting. (Standard Method).
   • NO: Go to Step 2.
2. Is your fabric thin/slippery (e.g., Liberty Lawn) or loosely woven?
   • Action: Pre-fuse Shape-Flex (SF101) to the back of the fabric before starting. This makes it behave like quilting cotton. Then use Poly Mesh.
3. Are you experiencing "Hoop Burn" or finding it impossible to hoop thick layers?
   • Action: Stop fighting a standard hoop. Use a magnetic embroidery hoops for brother style frame. The magnets hold thick layers without crushing the fabric fibers.
4. Is the block doming despite trimming?
   • Action: Switch to a thinner batting (like aggressive cotton scrim) or trim the batting out of every seam allowance religiously.
     

Troubleshooting the Three Scariest Moments: Foot Catches, Bulky Seams, and “Where Did My Lines Go?”

Use this table when things go wrong mid-stitch.

The Upgrade Path That Actually Makes Sense: When to Stick With a Standard Hoop vs Move to Magnetic Hoops or Multi-Needle Production

If you are a hobbyist making one pillow, standard tools act fine. If you are starting a business or making a King-sized quilt, your time is the most expensive consumable.

The Criteria for Upgrading:

• Level 1: The Frustrated Hobbyist.
  • Trigger: Wrists hurt from hooping, or fabric has hoop burn marks.
  • Solution: embroidery hoops magnetic upgrade. It saves your hands and your fabric.
• Level 2: The Batch Producer.
  • Trigger: You spend more time measuring and aligning batting than sewing.
  • Solution: hoop master embroidery hooping station. Standardize your placement so every block is identical.
• Level 3: The Business Owner.
  • Trigger: You are waiting for single-needle color changes and can't leave the machine.
  • Solution: Multi-Needle Machine (SEWTECH ecosystem). 10+ needles mean you press "Start" and walk away while the machine handles the color swaps and metallic threads automatically.

Final Operation Checklist:

• Block creates a perfect 4.5" x 6.5" rectangle.
• No tactile "bumps" in the seams.
• Metallic thread is knotted and trimmed on the back.
• Stabilizer is trimmed flush with the block edges.

By quilting last, you protect the integrity of the design. By managing your bulk and tools, you protect your sanity.

FAQ

• Q: How do I stitch Kimberbell Flying Geese Block 11 so the background quilting runs last instead of being buried under fabric layers?
  A: Run the piecing first and stitch a separate “background quilting only” file after the block is built.
  • Edit: In Embrilliance, merge the background quilting, then delete batting placement, batting tackdown, fabric placement, and fabric tackdown so only quilting stitches remain; save as a clearly labeled file.
  • Alternative: At the embroidery machine console, use Add/Merge, then skip the first four color stops to jump straight to quilting.
  • Success check: The spiderweb quilting is visibly on top of the finished piecing, not hidden under it.
  • If it still fails: Re-open the file/object list and confirm the prep steps were removed (or confirm the correct color stops were skipped).
• Q: How do I hoop a Kimberbell Flying Geese 5x7 ITH quilting block with Poly Mesh and batting without ending up with a block that will not square to 4.5" x 6.5"?
  A: Hoop with crosshairs on the Poly Mesh and center a true 5x7 batting piece with no drifting—this design has very tight margins.
  • Mark: Draw crosshairs directly on the Poly Mesh stabilizer before hooping.
  • Center: Align the crosshairs in the hoop template, then place a 5x7 batting piece centered on those lines.
  • Verify: Confirm the inner ring is fully seated and the correct 5x7 hoop is used.
  • Success check: The hooped Poly Mesh feels taut (a dull “drum” when tapped) and the crosshairs sit visually centered in the hoop.
  • If it still fails: If fabric shows hoop burn or layers shift while tightening a screw hoop, switch to a magnetic hoop to clamp layers without distortion.
• Q: What does correct stabilizer tension feel like when hooping Poly Mesh (No Show Mesh) for an ITH quilting block, and what causes fabric creep during stitching?
  A: Poly Mesh should be taut but not warped; fabric creep usually means the foundation is moving because hoop tension is too loose.
  • Tap-test: Aim for a dull drum sound, not a loose “flap” and not a stretched, distorted mesh.
  • Re-seat: Press the inner ring fully into the outer ring and re-check that the hoop is locked securely on the machine arm.
  • Re-check: Confirm the fabric fully covers the intended placement zone before running the next placement line.
  • Success check: Fabric stays registered to placement lines from start to finish with no shifting at corners.
  • If it still fails: Revisit hooping basics and stabilizer choice—movement in the foundation will show up as misalignment in the piecing.
• Q: What should I do if the embroidery foot catches the folded fabric during Kimberbell Flying Geese ITH piecing (fold lifts and snags mid-stitch)?
  A: Stop immediately and secure the fold flat for the next placement stitch, then remove the tape right after.
  • Stop: Pause the machine right away to prevent a bigger snag or needle hit.
  • Secure: Finger-crease hard along the seam, then tape the folded fabric down with a small strip of embroidery tape.
  • Continue: Stitch the next placement line, then remove the tape immediately.
  • Success check: The presser foot passes over the fold without grabbing, and the fold edge stays flat instead of curling.
  • If it still fails: Crease more firmly and use fresh tape; persistent lifting often means the fold was not sharply set.
• Q: How do I prevent needle breaks on bulky seams when trimming layers inside the hoop for Kimberbell Flying Geese ITH blocks?
  A: Control bulk every time by trimming the under-layer to a true 1/4" seam allowance before thickness snowballs.
  • Mark: Remove the hoop from the machine (do not unhoop) and draw a line 1/4" from the seam with a ruler and marking pen.
  • Trim: Fold back the top fabric and trim the excess under-layer close to the line before continuing.
  • Slow: If the hoop feels thicker under the foot, stop and trim again before stitching over the hump.
  • Success check: The block remains flat (not domed) and the machine stitches over seams without a “hard thump” or sudden needle strike.
  • If it still fails: Replace the needle and re-check for batting left in seam allowances; reduce speed over thick areas.
• Q: What scissor safety steps prevent cutting Poly Mesh stabilizer when trimming fabric inside the hoop for ITH quilting blocks?
  A: Keep scissor blades parallel to the stabilizer and use the right style of scissors so the stabilizer cannot get nicked.
  • Position: Hold scissors parallel to the Poly Mesh and trim only fabric layers—never “poke” downward.
  • Tool: Use duckbill or double-curved appliqué scissors to lift fabric away from the stabilizer.
  • Control: Trim with short, deliberate snips while the hoop is stable on a flat surface.
  • Success check: The Poly Mesh remains uncut with no slits or weak spots after trimming.
  • If it still fails: Stop trimming in-hoop and switch to a safer scissor style or technique before continuing the block.
• Q: How do I run Kingstar Silver metallic thread for Kimberbell spiderweb quilting without constant breaking or shredding?
  A: Use a larger-eye needle, slow the machine down, and slightly lower top tension so metallic thread runs cooler and smoother.
  • Change needle: Install a Topstitch 90/14 or a dedicated metallic needle.
  • Reduce speed: Drop from high-speed stitching to about 600–700 SPM for the metallic quilting pass.
  • Adjust tension: Lower top tension slightly until stitches balance cleanly.
  • Improve feed: Use a thread stand so the metallic unwinds vertically without twisting.
  • Success check: The metallic quilting line runs continuously with no shredding at the needle and no repeated breaks.
  • If it still fails: Re-thread the entire path and confirm the needle is not bent or burred from earlier thick seams.
• Q: What are the safety risks of magnetic embroidery hoops during ITH trimming and frequent hoop removal, and how can users avoid injuries and medical-device interference?
  A: Treat magnetic hoops as pinch-hazard tools and keep strong magnets away from implanted medical devices.
  • Protect fingers: Keep fingertips out of the “snap zone” when closing magnetic frames to prevent blood blisters.
  • Control closure: Align the frame carefully and let magnets close deliberately—do not let them slam shut.
  • Medical safety: Keep magnets at least 6 inches away from pacemakers and insulin pumps.
  • Success check: The hoop closes without finger pinches and the fabric sandwich stays clamped evenly without distortion.
  • If it still fails: Stop using the hoop until a safer handling routine is established, especially if multiple users share the workspace.