ITH Golf Ball Holder with Tee Loops (Vinyl + Felt): A Two-Hooping, Rivet-Finished Workflow That Stays Crisp

Here is the comprehensive, empirically calibrated guide, restructured to professional industry standards.

Materials and Hardware Needed

If you make gifts for golfers, this project is a sweet spot: it looks “store-bought,” it’s genuinely useful (holding 3 golf balls + 4 tees), and it serves as a masterclass in Vinyl Management 101. You will learn vinyl control, loop sizing, clean trimming, and hardware finishing.

In the video, the holder is built in two hoopings:

1. Hooping 1: Creates the front pocket and the integrated tee loops.
2. Hooping 2: Builds the main body and the back attachment (tab/handle for a D-ring or belt loop).

The final shape is formed off the machine using rivets and a snap.

What you’ll learn (and what usually goes wrong)

You’ll learn how to:

• Run placement stitches directly on tearaway to position vinyl accurately.
• Tack vinyl cleanly without shifting (a common issue with slippery backings).
• Form tee loops with consistent slack using a real golf tee as a sizing gauge.
• Prevent presser-foot drag on sticky vinyl surfaces.
• Trim loop straps safely using a "cardboard shield" technique.
• Punch and set rivets so the 3D box shape stands rigidly.

Common failure points (we’ll prevent them):

• Loop creep: Vinyl shifts during tack-down, resulting in crooked or uneven loops.
• Tension issues: Loops are too tight (tees won’t slide in) or too loose (tees fall out on the course).
• Friction drag: The presser foot sticks to the vinyl, causing distorted stitch paths or skipped stitches.
• Weak structure: Cutting the loop strip too short destroys the holder's integrity.
• Hardware failure: Rivet posts are too short for the stacked layers, causing them to pop open.

Tools and consumables shown in the video

Machine & hoop

• Husqvarna Viking embroidery machine (or any machine with a 5x7+ field).
• Standard 5x7 embroidery hoop.

Cutting & assembly tools

• Appliqué scissors (duckbill) or sharp precision snips.
• Exacto knife (new blade is non-negotiable).
• Leather hole punch (rotary or drive punch).
• Rivet press (green hand press or tabletop version).

Materials & hardware

• Vinyl: Marine vinyl or high-quality faux leather (approx. 0.8mm - 1.0mm thickness).
• Lining: Stiff felt or craft felt.
• Stabilizer: Medium-weight Tearaway (1.8 oz to 2.5 oz recommended).
• Adhesive: 505 spray adhesive or embroidery-safe tape.
• Friction Control: Painter's tape or Scotch tape (used as a glide layer).
• Rivets: Double cap rivets.
  • Cap: 9 mm.
  • Post Length: 9–12 mm (Critical: See assembly section for calculation).
• Snaps: Line 20 or 24 metal button snaps (S-spring version preferred).
• Hardware: 1" D-ring or Swivel Clasp.

Prep: hidden consumables & prep checks (don’t skip)

Even though this is an "In-The-Hoop" (ITH) project, the quality is determined before you press start. Vinyl is unforgiving—once needle holes are perforated, they are permanent scars.

Hidden-but-critical items to have ready:

• Needle: Size 75/11 Sharp or Topstitch. Do not use a ballpoint needle on vinyl; it tears rather than pierces.
• Bobbin: Pre-wound bobbins (60wt or 90wt) to ensure the design lies flat.
• Cardboard Scrap: A small piece of cereal box cardboard to act as a trimming guard.
• Real Golf Tee: Required for sizing the loops.

If you are new to the physics of hooping for embroidery machine setups, treat vinyl as a "Memory Material." It retains hoop marks deeper than cotton. Do not leave vinyl hooped overnight.

Prep Checklist (end this section with everything staged):

• Stabilizer: Hooped drum-tight. When you flick it, it should sound like a crisp drum (thump-thump), not a dull thud.
• Vinyl: Cut to size. Ensure the grain runs vertically for the main body for better structure.
• Adhesion: 505 spray can is shaken and ready (use in a ventilated box).
• Needle Check: Run the tip of your needle over a sheer stocking or your fingernail. If it catches at all, replace it. Vinyl requires a pristine point.
• Machine Config: Slow your machine down. For vinyl, the "Sweet Spot" is 600-700 SPM. High speeds generate heat, which melts the vinyl coating onto the needle.

First Hooping: Creating the Front Pocket and Tee Loops

This stage builds the functional component: the pocket face and the loop mechanism.

Step 1 — Run the placement stitch on tearaway

Load the design file. Run the first color stop directly onto the stabilizer. This is your "architectural blueprint."

Checkpoint:

• The placement line must be continuous. If your tension is too loose (loops on top), tighten top tension slightly before placing vinyl.

Expected outcome:

• A visible, clean outline on the stabilizer indicating exactly where the vinyl pocket piece must go.

Step 2 — Add vinyl for the pocket and run the tack-down/finish stitch

Spray the back of your vinyl piece lightly with adhesive. Tip: Spray from 8-10 inches away. You want a "tacky mist," not a "wet glue." Place it over the guidelines.

Checkpoint:

• Rub the vinyl down firmly from the center out to remove air bubbles.
• Ensure the vinyl covers the stitch line by at least 5mm on all sides.

Expected outcome:

• The machine stitches a rectangular box or decorative outline, securing the vinyl to the stabilizer permanently.

Step 3 — Run tee-loop placement stitches

The machine will now stitch a series of vertical ladder lines. These indicate where the loop strip will be attached.

Checkpoint:

• Visually confirm the placement. If using a multi-needle machine, ensure you haven't assigned a color that blends into the vinyl (e.g., black thread on black vinyl), or you won't see the lines for the next step.

Expected outcome:

• Clear "Target Lines" for the loop strip.

Step 4 — Align the tee-loop strip using the center mark

Take your narrow vinyl strip. Fold it in half to find the center and mark it with a chalk pen or small crease. Align this center mark with the center guideline stitched on the hoop.

Why this matters: If this strip is off-center by even 3mm, your final tee loop on one side will be too short to hold a tee securely.

Step 5 — Tape for control (and for foot glide)

Tape the ends of the strip down. Crucial Friction Hack: If your vinyl is "sticky" or rubbery (common with marine vinyl), place a piece of satin tape or clear tape over the sew zone. The metal presser foot will glide over the tape rather than gripping and dragging the vinyl.

Trouble Prevention: Vinyl drag is mechanical friction, not user error. If you hear a "thump-thump" sound or see the hoop jerking, the foot is sticking. Apply tape immediately.

Step 6 — Stitch the first vertical line, then size the loop with a real tee

This is the manual calibration step.

1. Stitch the first vertical lock-down line.
2. Stop the machine.
3. Insert a real golf tee under the vinyl strip, right next to the stitch line.
4. Pull the vinyl strip tight over the tee to form a hump.
5. Tape the vinyl down tightly to maintain that tension.
6. Run the next stitch line.
7. Repeat.

Checkpoint (Sensory Calibrator):

• Slide the tee in and out. It should feel like putting a cap on a pen—distinct resistance, but smooth movement. If it simply falls out, unpick and re-do tighter.

Expected outcome:

• A row of 4 evenly sized loops.

Pro tips pulled from the comments (and what they mean in practice)

• font Density Warning: Viewers asked about adding names. Expert Advice: Yes, but avoid dense serif fonts (like Times New Roman) under 1 inch. The needle penetrations are so close they act like a perforation blade, literally cutting a hole in your vinyl. Use open, sans-serif fonts or "Bean Stitch" fonts.
• Speed Control: Playback speed on the video is fast. In reality, slow your machine speed down. 600 SPM gives the vinyl time to cool between needle penetrations.

Hooping stability upgrade path (when vinyl gets thick)

We are using a standard hoop here. However, standard hoops require you to shove layers between an inner and outer ring. With thick vinyl, this often causes "Hoop Burn"—a permanent crushed ring on your material.

If you plan to sell these or make them in bulk, upgrading to magnetic embroidery hoops dissolves this problem. Magnetic frames permit you to clamp the vinyl from the top without forcing it inside a ring, preserving the grain and allowing for thicker assemblies without forcing the screw.

Warning: Needle Safety. Keep fingers strictly away from the needle bar when holding the vinyl strip. Do not use your fingers to hold the tee in place while the machine is moving. Use a pencil eraser or tape to hold it down.

Second Hooping: Constructing the Main Body

This hooping assembles the chassis. It is simpler but requires precise alignment.

Step 1 — Run the placement stitch for the main body

Hoop a fresh piece of tearaway stabilizer. Run Color Stop 1.

Checkpoint:

• Ensure your bobbin is sufficiently full. Running out of bobbin thread on the final outline stitch of thick vinyl is a nightmare to fix.

Expected outcome:

• A clear outline of the entire holder shape.

Step 2 — Place the main body vinyl and handle/tab pieces

Spray and place your main back vinyl piece face up. Then, place your D-Ring tab or Belt Loop piece according to the guides. Tape these down securely. Double-check orientation: The "loop" part should face into the design, so it isn't stitched shut.

Step 3 — Add the felt lining on the underside (floating method)

Remove the hoop from the machine (do not un-hoop the material). Flip the hoop over. Spray your felt piece and attach it to the underside of the tearaway stabilizer, covering the design area.

This is a classic floating embroidery hoop technique, essential for ITH projects to hide the back of the embroidery stitches and provide a clean interior finish.

Checkpoint:

• Secure the corners of the felt with tape to the underside of the outer hoop ring. This prevents the felt from peeling back as the hoop arm moves.

Expected outcome:

• A "sandwich": Felt on bottom, Stabilizer in middle, Vinyl on top.

Step 4 — Run the outline stitch (and the guide holes)

Return the hoop to the machine. Run the final Outline Stitch. This stitch will also create the small circles that act as drill guides for your rivets.

Checkpoint:

• Listen to your machine. A rhythmic "crunch" is normal as it penetrates 3 layers. A "grinding" noise means your needle is dull or the layers are too thick for your foot height.

Expected outcome:

• A completely enclosed shape with visible tiny circles for hole punching.

Why the pocket doesn’t collapse (a detail many people miss)

The video shows visible stitching/stabilizer left on the inside. This is not laziness; it is structural engineering. Vinyl is pliable. By leaving a unified layer of stabilizer and stitch architecture, you create an internal "skeleton" that prevents the pocket from collapsing when the golf balls are removed.

Cutting and Trimming Tips for Vinyl

Clean trimming is the differentiator between "Craft Project" and "Product."

Step 1 — Trim the tee-loop strip with a cardboard guard

This is the most dangerous step for your project. You must trim the excess vinyl from the loop strip without slicing the pocket layer underneath.

1. Fold a piece of cereal box cardboard.
2. Slide this shield under the loose vinyl flap.
3. Use a fresh Exacto blade to slice the vinyl against the cardboard.

Checkpoint:

• Leave at least 3-4mm of vinyl extending beyond the stitch line. If you trim too close, the vinyl will eventually tear from the stress of inserting tees.

Expected outcome:

• A clean, straight edge. The cardboard protects the base layer from accidental cuts.

Step 2 — Cut the embroidered pieces out cleanly

Remove the project from the stabilizer. Use sharp scissors to cut around the perimeter.

Checkpoint:

• The 1/8th Inch Rule: Aim for a consistent 3mm (1/8") border of vinyl outside the stitch line.
• Angle your scissors slightly to the right to undercut the lining if you want the top vinyl to roll over slightly (advanced).

What a viewer asked: “What were you rubbing along the sides?”

A viewer noted edge finishing. While not explicitly detailed, professionals often use Edge Paint (like Giardini) or a burnishing tool (bone folder) to seal the raw edges of the vinyl/felt sandwich. This prevents the felt from fuzzing over time.

Decision tree: stabilizer + structure choices for vinyl ITH

Use this logic flow to configure your setup:

Decision Tree (Vinyl ITH Structure):

1. Is your vinyl thin/stretchy (e.g., upholstery vinyl)?
   • Yes: Use Cutaway stabilizer instead of Tearaway for the first layer to prevent stretch-distortion.
   • No (Standard Marine Vinyl): Tearaway is sufficient.
2. Are you struggling to hoop the thick stack?
   • Yes: Stop fighting the screw. Switch to a magnetic embroidery frame. It uses magnetic force to clamp straight down, accommodating thickness without distortion.
   • No: Proceed with standard hoop, but double-check your inner ring tension screw.
3. Are you producing >10 units?
   • Yes: Batch your steps. Do all hooping, then all stitching, then all cutting. Consider a designated hoopmaster hooping station or similar alignment jig if you are using standard hoops to ensure every logo lands in the same spot.

Assembly: Adding Rivets and Snaps

Turning a flat object into a 3D box requires mechanical fasteners.

Step 1 — Punch holes on the stitched guide marks

Use your rotary punch. Select the 2.5mm or 3mm tube. Punch directly through the center of the stitched guide circles.

Checkpoint:

• Ensure the "slug" (the waste material) is fully removed from the hole.

Step 2 — Install the snap(s)

Install the snap Button (Cap + Socket) on the top flap and the Stud (Stud + Post/Back) on the body.

Expected outcome:

• The snap should close with a firm "Click." If it feels mushy, the post was likely bent during setting.

Step 3 — Add the back attachment (D-ring / swivel clasp option)

Thread your D-ring or Swivel Clasp onto the back tab. Fold the tab over.

Checkpoint:

• Mental Check: Did you put the hardware on? Once you rivet this shut, there is no going back without drilling out the rivet.

Step 4 — Fold and align side holes to form the 3D shape

Fold the vinyl up to meet the sides. The holes should align perfectly if your stabilizer didn't shift during stitching.

Step 5 — Set double cap rivets with a press

Thread the rivet post from the inside out. Place the cap on the outside.

Sizing Formula: Thickness of Material Stack + 2mm = Ideal Post Length. In the video, a 9 mm cap / 10 mm post is used. If your stack feels loose, use a shorter post (8mm). If the cap won't snap on, use a longer post (12mm).

Checkpoint:

• Press handle down smoothly. You should feel a solid "Stop" at the bottom.
• Visually inspect the cap. It should sit flush with the vinyl surface, not tilted.

Tool ROI note (when you start making multiples)

For a hobbyist, a hand-held hole punch is fine. For a business, a Tabletop Press is mandatory. It saves your wrists and ensures every rivet is set vertically, reducing waste.

Completing this assembly efficiently is key to profit. If you scale up to a setup involving commercial equipment like SEWTECH multi-needle machines, you will likely move to batch-riveting off-machine while the next batch stitches.

Warning: Magnet Safety. If you upgrade to magnetic hoops, be aware they use Neodymium magnets. These are incredibly powerful. They can pinch skin severely and must be kept away from pacemakers.

Setup Checklist (end this section before you stitch the next one):

• Rivet Dry Fit: Squeeze the folded stack. Does the rivet post stick out 1-2mm? If yes, it's good. If less, it's too short. If >3mm, it will bend sideways.
• Punch Waste: Clear the punch tubes. Clogged tubes tear vinyl.
• Orientation: D-Ring is ON the tab before riveting.
• Snap Test: Snap is tested for closure strength before final assembly.

Primer

This project is a beginner-friendly Introduction to Vinyl structural embroidery. By combining Placement Stitches, Tack Downs, and hardware integration, you create a retail-ready golf ball holder.

Compatibility Note: The creator mentions the design fits a 6x10 hoop. If you are a Brother user shopping for embroidery hoops for brother machines, verify your machine's max field. A 5x7 machine usually cannot run a 6x10 file, even if you split it.

Prep

Success lies in preparation.

• Physics: Slow the machine (600 SPM) to reduce heat and friction.
• Chemistry: Use spray adhesive sparingly to avoid gumming the needle.
• Mechanics: Use a sharp, fresh needle (75/11) to pierce cleanly.

If you are setting up for production, consider a hooping stations setup to standardize your placement, though for ITH projects, the placement stitch inside the hoop handles most alignment duties.

Setup

Organize your workspace into "Clean" and "Dirty" zones.

• Clean Zone (Machine): For stitching, tape, and vinyl placement. Keep this free of oil or metal shavings.
• Dirty Zone (Bench): For punching holes, trimming fuzz, and pressing rivets. Keep the hammer and heavy tools here.

Operation

The Repeatable sequence:

1. Hoop 1: Stitch placement -> Adhere Pocket -> Stitch Loop Guides -> Attach Strip -> Size Loops using Tee -> Trim Strip.
2. Hoop 2: Stitch Placement -> Adhere Body & Tab -> Float Felt on Back -> Stitch Outline/Perimeter.
3. Finish: Cut -> Punch -> Snap -> Rivet.

Operation Checklist (end this section before calling it “done”):

• Tee Test: Tees slide with resistance but do not fall out when shaken.
• Stitch Quality: No "bird nesting" on the back (indicates tension good).
• Trimming: No jagged edges on the perimeter cut.
• Structure: Box stands up on its own; does not flop over.
• Hardware: Rivets are tight (cannot rotate them with fingers).
• Snap: Audibly clicks shut.

Quality Checks

Before gifting or shipping:

1. The Shake Test: Load with balls and tees. Shake upside down over a sofa. Tees should stay; strap should hold balls.
2. The Scratch Test: Run a finger over the rivets. Any sharp edges? If so, the rivet was set crooked—discard or drill out and replace.
3. The Liner Check: Inspect the felt inside. Is it caught securely in the stitching everywhere?

Troubleshooting

Symptom: Presser foot sticks or drags on vinyl

• Likely Cause: Friction / Heat buildup.
• Quick Fix: Apply satin tape or clear scotch tape over the vinyl path.
• Prevention: Use a Teflon (non-stick) foot if your machine supports it.

Symptom: Tee loops are inconsistent (some tight, some loose)

• Likely Cause: "Eyeballing" the slack instead of using a physical gauge.
• Quick Fix: None (unpick).
• Prevention: Always use the same golf tee for every single loop.

Symptom: Loop strip edge looks ragged

• Likely Cause: Trimming freehand with dull scissors.
• Quick Fix: Carefully sand the edge with high-grit sandpaper (400 grit).
• Prevention: Use the cardboard guard + new Exacto blade method.

Symptom: Rivet cap pops off

• Likely Cause: Post was too short for the vinyl thickness.
• Quick Fix: None.
• Prevention: Sizing Check: Material Thickness + 2mm = Post Length.

Symptom: Machine jams/Thread shreds

• Likely Cause: Adhesive buildup on needle.
• Quick Fix: Clean needle with alcohol wipe or replace.
• Prevention: Use less spray; spray away from the hoop.

Results

When mastered, this project yields a rugged, professional accessory that rivals pro-shop gear. It demonstrates that with the right consumable choices (needle, tape, stabilizer) and mechanical aids (rivet press, tee gauge), embroidery machines can build 3D structural objects, not just surface decoration.

If you find yourself battling the hoop screw constanty, remember that tools exist to solve physical limitations. Transitioning to magnetic hoops or production-grade machines like SEWTECH setups isn't just about spending money—it's about buying back your time and consistency.