How To Embroider Multiple Patches on a 15-Needle Machine

Setting Up for Batch Production

Batching patches is one of the fastest ways to turn “patch making” from a slow, artisanal craft into a predictable, profitable production workflow—especially on a multi-needle platform. In this masterclass tutorial, we analyze how Ryan produces 24 patches in a single hoop run on a BAI 15-needle machine using a professional appliqué-style build: placement stitches first, then rigid pre-cut rectangles placed into each box, followed by a zig-zag tackdown and a final satin border.

If you’re here because you want cleaner edges, fewer re-hoops, and a process you can repeat without the anxiety of a mid-run failure, you are in the right place. This guide keeps the video’s exact steps intact but injects the "Chief Education Officer" perspective—adding the sensory checkpoints, safety margins, and business logic often left out of standard tutorials.

15 needle embroidery machine

Primer: what you’ll learn (and what makes this “Version 2” approach work)

Scaling from 1 patch to 24 isn't just multiplication; it's an engineering challenge. You will learn how to:

• Stabilize the Platform: Support a large sash frame with a tabletop extension so the hoop doesn’t drag or bind (eliminating "flagging").
• Digital Setup: Select the correct hoop size on the machine setup (Ryan uses 500 × 325 mm).
• The "Stability Sandwich": Fuse twill with fusible no-show mesh (bumpy side toward the twill) and hoop it with high-tension sash-frame clips.
• The Appliqué Rhythm: Run placement stitches for all 24 patches, then place appliqué rectangles one-by-one as the machine pauses.
• Professional Finish: Cut close (without snipping stitches), seal edges with a soldering iron (cauterizing the fibers), apply thermal adhesive film, and press onto hats.

Why batching patches stresses your setup more than “normal” embroidery

When you fill a large frame (like a 500x325mm sash) with repeated shapes, you are asking the machine to stitch across a massive surface area for an extended period. This introduces physical forces that don't exist in single-patch runs:

• Hoop Drift (Inertia): A heavy frame moving at 800 SPM (Stitches Per Minute) carries significant momentum. Without perfect support, the weight pulls the pantograph, causing tiny registration shifts that accumulate. By patch #20, your border might be 2mm off.
• The "Drum Effect": Tension must be uniform across a 20-inch span. If the fabric is tight on the left and loose on the right, the needle penetration force will distort the fabric differently, leading to puckering.
• Adhesive Contamination: Spraying 24 spots creates a cloud of adhesive that settles on your needle bar and tension discs.

So the “secret” isn’t just the digitizing—it’s the Stability Stack: Fabric + Fusible Layer + Backing + Hooping Method + Support Table.

Installing the Extended Table Top

Ryan’s first major change for this multi-patch workflow is adding a tabletop extension. This is non-negotiable for large frames.

Video actions (kept exact):

1. Locate the fixed posts on the machine base.
2. Align the holes of the tabletop extension with those posts.
3. Slide the board onto the posts.
4. Secure the tabletop with four screws using an Allen wrench.
5. Confirm the table surface is flat and secure.

Expert Checkpoint (Sensory Check): After tightening the screws, run your hand across the seam where the extension meets the machine bed. It should feel perfectly flush. If you feel a "lip" or "step," your hoop will catch on it during movement, ruining the design. Also, press down on the far edge of the table; it should feel solid, with zero wobble. This stability is what prevents "flagging" (fabric bouncing up and down) at high speeds.

Selecting the Right Hoop Size

Ryan changes the hoop selection on the machine and chooses 500 × 325 mm.

• Setting shown: Hoop Size = 500 × 325 mm (selected on the main screen).

bai embroidery machine hoop sizes

Practical Note: Always match the machine’s hoop selection to the physical frame you mount.

• The Risk: If you tell the machine it has a larger area than physical reality, the needle bar could slam into the metal frame, potentially shattering the needle or knocking the timing out.
• The Safety Habit: Before loading the design, perform a "Trace" or "Contour" check. Watch the needle (specifically needle #1 and needle #15) to ensure it stays well within the physical boundaries of the frame.

Fabric & Stabilizer Prep (the stability stack)

Ryan uses:

• Grey Twill Fabric: A standard for patches due to its durability and texture.
• Fusible No-Show Mesh Stabilizer: This is the secret weapon for preventing distortion.
• Thick Cut-Away Stabilizer: Used later for the appliqué inserts.

Key Video Rule: “Always want the bumpy side on the twill.” He acts this out clearly. The "bumps" correspond to the adhesive dots.

Why this matters (The Science): Twill is a diagonal weave. Under the intense needle penetration of satin borders (thousands of stitches), the weave wants to shift or "bias stretch." Ironing a fusible mesh to the entire back of the base fabric locks the weave geometry in place. It transforms the fabric from a "stretchy textile" into a "stable substrate" similar to cardstock.

The Appliqué Patch Workflow

This is the core production loop: stitch guides first, then place rectangles, then stitch borders. It’s efficient because the machine does the precision work (consistent placement boxes and borders), while you do the fast manual work (placing pre-cut pieces).

bai embroidery machine

Running Placement Stitches (for all 24 patches)

After hooping and mounting the frame, Ryan starts by placing the first placement stitch, then continues until all 24 placement outlines are stitched.

Expected Outcome:

• Visual: You should see 24 clean placement boxes/outlines on the hooped base fabric.
• Tactile: The fabric should remain tight; if you see ripples between the boxes, your hoop tension was too loose.

Comment-based spacing guidance (Important): A viewer asked how much room to leave. Ryan replied that there’s basically no room between the patches themselves, but between the hoop edge and the patch edges there’s a little space—about an inch.

Expert Advice: When digitizing for a full frame, keep your sewing speed moderate (600-700 SPM). You are covering a lot of ground. Racing at 1000 SPM increases vibration and the likelihood of thread breaks, which stops the machine and kills your efficiency. Slow is smooth, smooth is fast.

Adhering Fabric Layers (prep the appliqué rectangles)

Ryan’s workflow includes preparing a second twill layer that will become the individual rectangles you place into each stitched box.

Video actions (kept exact):

1. Prepare a second sheet of twill with fusible mesh.
2. Take a thick cut-away stabilizer sheet.
3. Spray 505 temporary adhesive on the cut-away stabilizer.
4. Adhere the second twill sheet to it.
5. Cut out individual rectangles slightly larger than the patch size.

Why this layered rectangle matters (Expert Explanation): In batch appliqué patches, the inserted rectangle needs to stay flat while you handle it and while the machine stitches the tackdown. By bonding twill to a thick cut-away backing before cutting, you create a rigid "patch blank."

• Without this step: You are placing a floppy piece of fabric that will likely curl up when the zig-zag stitch hits it, poking out of the satin border.
• With this step: The piece acts like a rigid card, sitting perfectly flat in the placement box.

Comment Integration (Time-Saving Idea): One commenter suggested using a long quilter’s ruler and rotary cutter to cut strips along placement lines, then finishing corners with scissors. Another suggested using a cutting machine (Cricut/Silhouette). Verdict: Valid workflow upgrades if you can export the SVG shape at the exact size.

Important limitation: Ryan clarified that filling the whole area must be done during digitizing—it’s not possible to multiply them on the machine beyond a few copies. You need software (Wilcom, Hatch, Chroma, etc.) to create the grid layout.

Final Satin Stitching (place rectangle → tackdown → satin)

Once the placement stitches are done, the machine will pause. This is your "Manual Intervention" phase.

Video actions (kept exact):

1. Spray a small amount of adhesive onto the back of a pre-cut rectangle.
2. Place the rectangle inside the stitched placement box.
3. Resume the machine.
4. The machine stitches a zig-zag (tackdown) to combine layers.
5. Then it stitches the satin border around the zig-zag.
6. Repeat for all patch locations.

Warning: Safety First. Scissors and needles are a bad combination. When placing rectangles, bring your hands completely out of the hoop area before hitting "Start." Do not try to smooth the fabric while the machine is ramping up speed. A needle at 800 SPM moves faster than your reflex.

Expert “Watch Out” (Adhesive Control): Ryan notes a key pitfall—don’t spray adhesive into the machine. He uses a paper towel as a guard.

Warning: Machine Health. Temporary adhesive (like 505) is airborne glue. If you spray it near the machine, it coats the bobbin case, rotary hook, and sensors. Over time, this attracts lint, creating a "cement" that causes bird-nesting and timing issues. Always spray away from the machine, preferably in a box or dedicated station.

Operation Checklist (end-of-section)

• Bobbin Check: Is your bobbin full? A field of 24 patches consumes massive amounts of thread. Changing a bobbin mid-satin stitch leaves a visible seam.
• Placement Completed: All 24 placement outlines stitched first.
• Size Check: Rectangles cut slightly larger (2mm overlap) than the box to ensure the satin catches the edge.
• Safel Spray: Adhesive applied away from the machine (paper towel guard in use).
• Seating: Each rectangle pressed firmly into the placement box (sensory check: no lifting corners).
• Run Order: Confirm machine will sew the Tackdown followed immediately by the Satin for each patch sequentially.

Finishing Professional Patches

Finishing is where patches either look “store-bought” or “homemade.” The difference is in the edge management. Ryan’s sequence is fast and production-friendly.

bai embroidery frame

Cutting & Sealing Edges

After stitching:

1. Remove fabric from the hoop.
2. Cut out each patch close to the satin edge.

Then Ryan uses a soldering tool (Lexivon brand shown) and runs it along edges and corners to seal fraying.

Why the soldering iron trick works (Expert Explanation): Scissors cut fibers; heat melts them. Most patch fabrics (polyester twill) and stabilizers are synthetic. By running a hot tip along the edge, you cauterize the loose fibers, melting them into a smooth, invisible hard bead next to the satin stitch. This prevents the "hairy halo" look after washing.

Practical Control Tip (Sensory):

• Speed: Move the iron like you are underlining text with a highlighter—smooth and steady.
• Smell: You should smell a faint melting plastic scent. If you smell burning/charring, you are moving too slow or the iron is too hot. Start with a low temp and increase until it just melts the fuzz.

Applying Thermal Adhesive Backing

Ryan applies thermal adhesive film (Heat n Bond or similar) to the back of the patch.

Video actions (kept exact):

1. Place thermal adhesive with the shiny side down on the back of the patch.
2. Heat press settings shown for this step: 310°F on top and 300°F on bottom, pressed for 15 seconds.

Expert Finishing Standard: After pressing, check that the film is fully bonded edge-to-edge. Let it cool completely before peeling the paper backing. If the paper sticks or tears, it hasn't cooled enough.

Heat Press Application

This section covers the final transfer to hats, using Ryan’s hat press settings. This is the moment of truth for the end customer.

hat hoop for embroidery machine

Preparing the Hat

Ryan applies the finished patch to Richardson 112 hats.

Video actions (kept exact):

1. Peel the backing.
2. Place the patch on the hat.
3. Use heat tape to hold position.
4. Press on a hat press.

Time, Temp, and Pressure Settings

Ryan’s hat press settings shown:

• Hat press temperature (top): 310°F
• Hat press time: 15 seconds

Expected Outcome:

• Visual: Patch sits flat with clean edges. No "hovering" over the center seam of the hat.
• Tactile: The bond should feel integrated, not like a sticker sitting on top.
• Troubleshooting: If the satin border looks crushed or shiny ("ironed" look), reduce pressure slightly or use a teflon sheet.

Hooping Efficiency

The video uses a traditional sash frame with clips and screws. It works—but it’s also where most shops lose time, consistency, and operator morale.

bai embroidery hoops

Traditional Sash Frames vs Magnetic Options

Traditional Sash Frame Reality:

• Pros: Large sewing field (perfect for batching), included with machine.
• Cons: Requires significant hand strength. Securing the clips on thick fabric impacts the wrists. It is easy to accidentally pull the fabric bias (distorting the grain) while tightening screws.

Tool-Upgrade Path (Business Logic):

• Scenario A: You do one batch a month. Stick with the sash frame.
• Scenario B: You do batches weekly. Upgrade.
• Scenario C: You hire staff. Upgrade immediately.

The Solution: Magnetic Hoops (like those from SEWTECH) are the industry standard upgrade for production runs.

• Speed: Simply lay the fabric and snap the top frame on. Eliminates screw tightening.
• Safety: Reduces "Hoop Burn" (shiny rings left on fabric) because the magnet holds vertically rather than pinching forcefully.
• Ergonomics: Saves your wrists from repetitive strain injury (RSI).

magnetic embroidery hoops

Warning: Magnetic Safety. Industrial magnetic hoops use high-grade Neodymium magnets. They snap together with crushing force.
* Pinch Hazard: Keep fingers clear of the mating surfaces.
* Medical: Maintain a safe distance from pacemakers.
* Tech: Do not place phones or credit cards directly on the magnets.

Reducing Hooping Time (and wrist fatigue)

In a shop environment, time is money. If it takes you 20 minutes to hoop a sash frame correctly, and 5 minutes to hoop with a magnetic frame, you save 15 minutes per run. Over 100 runs, that is 25 hours of labor saved—paying for the hoop multiple times over.

Decision Tree: Stabilizer & Structure for Patch Batches

Use this decision tree to choose a stable, repeatable patch “sandwich.”

1. Is your patch base fabric Twill?
   • Yes: Go to Step 2.
   • No (Felt/Velvet): Test a sample first; felt may not need fusible mesh, but needs tear-away.
2. Do you need to prevent fabric distortion (twisting)?
   • Yes: Fuse No-Show Poly Mesh (bumpy side down) to the entire back of the twill.
   • No: Proceed at your own risk (high chance of misshapen patches).
3. Do you want the appliqué rectangles to be rigid and easy to place?
   • Yes: Bond the second layer of twill to Thick Cut-Away Stabilizer using 505 spray before cutting rectangles.
   • No: Use plain fabric (Harder to handle, tends to curl).
4. Are edges fraying after cutting?
   • Yes: Use the Soldering Iron technique to seal.
   • No: Standard trimming is sufficient.

Prep: Hidden consumables & prep checks (the stuff that ruins batches when forgotten)

Even though the video focuses on the main tools, batch patch runs go smoother when you stage the “small stuff” first.

Hidden Consumables to Stage:

• Fresh Needles: Start a batch of 24 with a fresh needle (Titanium coated 75/11 is a good standard). A burred needle will ruin patch #18.
• Extra Bobbins: Pre-wound magne-glide bobbins are best for consistency.
• Heat Tape: Crucial for hat placement.
• Teflon Sheet/Parchment Paper: Protects your heat press and the patch face.
• Lighter/Snips: For quick cleanup.

Prep Checklist (end-of-section)

• Tabletop extension installed and tightened (Sensory check: No wobble).
• Correct hoop size selected in machine UI: 500 × 325 mm.
• Needle Path Clear: Run a "Trace" to ensure the needle won't hit the frame.
• Twill fused with no-show mesh (bumpy side toward twill).
• Heat press staged and pre-heated (310°F).

Setup Checklist (end-of-section)

• Fabric laid over the sash frame evenly (grain is straight).
• Clips snapped into grooves securely (listen for the snap).
• Fabric Tension Check: Tap the fabric. It should sound like a drum—tight, but not stretched to the point of distorting the weave.
• Frame mounted to machine drive bar. Sensory check: Ensure the bracket is fully seated in the notch before tightening thumb screws.

Troubleshooting (symptom → likely cause → fix)

Results: what a successful run looks like

When you follow the workflow exactly—respecting the stability stack and the sensory checkpoints—you end with:

• A full sheet of 24 patches where Patch #1 looks identical to Patch #24.
• Cleanly cut edges that are sealed against fraying.
• A workflow that turns raw materials into high-margin merchandise in under an hour.

If you find yourself dreading the setup process, remember that production is about removing variables. If the hoop is your variable, look into magnetic frames. If the cutting is your variable, look into automated cutting. If the machine speed is your variable, verify your stability stack.

Master the batch, and you master the profit margin.