How to Digitize a Quilt-As-You-Go Block in Embird Studio

Preparing Your Reference Image

Quilt-as-you-go (QAYG) blocks are the "final boss" for many embroiderers. They require precision that standard appliqué does not. If your quilting motif stitches through your center design, the block is ruined. To look "pro," the background stitching must frame the main embroidery cleanly, creating that puffed, dimensional look without pinning the center down.

In this workflow, we are not just "guessing" scale. We are building a pixel-accurate reference image in MS Paint, importing it into Embird Studio at a locked hoop size, and digitizing a background motif with a "Punch a Hole" cutout.

This is the difference between "hoping it fits" and "knowing it fits."

What you’ll learn (and what this solves)

• The Math: How to convert inches to pixels so your software canvas matches your physical hoop reality.
• The Template: How to build a 6x6 hoop template in Paint to control centering.
• The Scaling Fix: How to prevent Embird from resizing your image unpredictably.
• The Cutout: How to use the "Punch a Hole" tool to create a safety zone around your main design.
• The Sequence: How to force the quilting motif to stitch last, ensuring your layers don't shift.

A common pain point I see in my workshops is the background motif "eating" the center design. This isn't a machine error; it is a sequencing error. The background was created as a solid slab of stitches, and the machine is just doing exactly what it was told. We are going to change the instructions.

Calculating Pixels for Loop Accuracy

In the video, Donna starts with a specific anchor: the design size is 4.91 inches wide × 4.15 inches high.

Why do we care about pixels? Because embroidery software loves integers (whole numbers). Inches often result in floating-point rounding errors (like 4.91002), which can cause your background to drift by a millimeter or two. In QAYG, a millimeter is the difference between a clean border and a needle piercing your satin stitch.

Step-by-step: convert inches to pixels (Donna’s method)

1. Find a Calculator: Use an online inch-to-pixel converter (standard DPI is usually 96, but consistency matters more than the specific DPI setting).
2. Convert the Design:
   • 4.91 inches → 471.36 pixels. Action: Round this to 471 pixels.
   • 4.15 inches → 398 pixels.
3. Convert the Hoop:
   • 6 inches → 576 pixels.
   • Result: Your workspace canvas must be 576 × 576 pixels.

Expert Note: Donna’s tip to ignore decimals is crucial. Rounding to the nearest whole pixel gives the software a solid grid to snap to.

Why this works (the practical principle)

Digitizing is full of "almost right" moments. By forcing your reference image to match a specific pixel grid, you eliminate Scale Drift. This is when you import an image, and Embird "helpfully" resizes it to fit the screen, destroying your 1:1 scale ratio. By standardizing your pixel math, you ensure that what you see on the screen is exactly what happens under the needle.

Setting Up the Workspace in Paint

This section is the "mise en place"—preparing your ingredients before cooking. If you skip this, your alignment will be fighting you the whole time.

Step 1: screenshot, paste, and crop tightly

1. Capture: Take a Print Screen of your design file.
2. Paste: Open MS Paint and paste the image.
3. Crop: Use the selection tool to crop tightly to the very edge of the stitches.
   • Visual Check: If you have whitespace around the design, your centering calculations will be off. The crop box should touch the outermost pixels of the design.

Step 2: resize the design image to the calculated pixels

Now we force the image to match our math from the previous section.

1. Open the Resize dialog (Ctrl+W in most Paint versions).
2. Switch the setting from Percentage to Pixels.
3. Uncheck "Maintain aspect ratio." (This is critical—we are forcing dimensions).
4. Enter the values:
   • Horizontal: 471
   • Vertical: 398
5. Save this file as a JPEG.

Step 3: create a 6x6 hoop canvas

1. Open a new instance of Paint (File > New).
2. Resize the canvas to your hoop parameters:
   • 576 × 576 pixels

This white square is your digital hoop. If the design fits in here, it fits in your machine.

Step 4: paste the resized design into the hoop canvas and center it

1. Use Paste From to drop your resized design (the 471x398 image) onto the white 576x576 square.
2. The Visual Check: Drag the design until it looks perfectly centered. Look at the white space on the left vs. right—they should look equal.

The key anti-scaling trick: draw a bounding box

this is the "secret sauce" of the tutorial.

Action: Draw a thin rectangle box right along the very edge of your white 576x576 canvas.

Why? When you import an image into Embird, the software looks for the "edges" of the image. If you have a white background, Embird might ignore the white space and only import the owl, messing up your centering. The black bounding box forces Embird to recognize the entire 6x6 area.

Importing to Embird Studio

Now we move from "Prep" to "Setup." We are telling Embird exactly how to interpret the map we just drew.

Step-by-step: set hoop size and import

1. Open Embird Studio.
2. Go to Preferences > Hoop Size and select 150 × 150 mm (which is approx 6x6 inches).
3. Import: Select Image > Import and choose your prepared file with the bounding box.
4. The Critical Moment: Embird will ask, "Do you want to resize the background image to fit the active hoop?"
5. Action: Click Yes.

Pro tip from real-world digitizing

If you are new to Embird, this workflow is an excellent skill-builder. It teaches you spatial awareness. Many beginners struggle because they rely on the software's "auto-center" features, which often fail when backgrounds are irregular. By building your own template, you are taking control away from the algorithm and keeping it for yourself.

Digitizing the Background with a Cutout

Here is where we create the "Quilt" part of QAYG. We need a background that fills the empty space but respects the main design.

Step-by-step: create the background motif

1. Outline: Use the Closed Shape tool to trace the square border of your hoop (or the desired quilt block size).
2. Fill: Select a Motif Fill. (Donna uses a specific decorative stitch).
3. Generate: Click Generate Stitches (Ctrl+G).

Sensory Check: At this stage, your screen will look like a mess. The quilting motif will be plastered right over the top of your owl/center design. Do not panic—this is normal.

Step-by-step: Punch a Hole around the main design

This tool is your digital scissors.

1. Select the background object you just created.
2. Choose the Punch a Hole tool.
3. Trace: Click points around your main design (the owl).
4. The Buffer Zone: Trace slightly outside the design. I recommend leaving a 3mm to 5mm gap (approx 1/8th inch).
5. Finalize: Right-click to close the shape. The software will regenerate the stitches, leaving a hole in the middle.

Why the margin matters (quality + stitch safety)

Why leave a gap? Why not trace right up to the edge?

1. Physical shift: Fabric moves. As you add stitches, the fabric shrinks slightly (pull compensation). If you digitize with zero margin, the background overlaps your design.
2. Visual Breathing Room: A dense quilting background touching a dense satin stitch looks crowded and messy. The gap creates a "halo" that highlights your main design.
3. Needle Safety: You do not want the needle piercing your existing embroidery, which can cause thread shredding or needle deflection.

Warning: Needle Deflection Hazard. When digitizing thick QAYG blocks, overlapping stitches (hitting a satin stitch with a quilting stitch) can bend the needle, causing it to strike the needle plate. Always leave that safety margin!

Merging and Setting Stitch Order

We have the parts; now we need to assemble the car. We move to Embird Editor.

Step-by-step: merge files in Embird Editor

1. Compile: In Studio, click "Compile and put into Editor."
2. Merge: In Editor, go to File > Merge and select your original embroidery file (the Owl).
3. Align: If your prep work was perfect, the Owl should drop right into the hole. If not, nudge it gently until it is centered in the void.

Step-by-step: set stitch order so quilting runs last

This is the non-negotiable rule of QAYG: The Motif Stitches Last.

1. Look at the object list on the right side of the screen.
2. If the Background Motif is at the top (Step 1), the machine will stitch it first.
3. Action: Drag the Background Motif to the bottom of the list (or right-click and select "Order > Last").

Why? If you stitch the quilting first, you flatten the batting. When you stitch the Owl afterwards, it pushes the fabric against the flattened area, creating puckers. Stitching the Owl first anchors the fabric; the quilting then smooths everything outwards.

Comment-driven “watch out”: stopping to add material and change colors

A viewer asked about stopping the machine to add batting/backing. This is called an Appliqué Stop.

• How to do it: In the Editor, you can insert a "Color Change" command even if you stay with the same thread. Most machines will stop and trim when they see a color change instruction (e.g., C01 to C02). Use this pause to slide your batting under the hoop.

Prep

Hardware preparation is where 80% of failures happen before the start button is pressed.

Hidden consumables & prep checks (don’t skip these)

• Needle: Switch to a Standard 90/14 or a Topstitch 90/14. QAYG involves layers (Fabric + Batting + Backing + Design). A standard 75/11 needle will struggle to penetrate, leading to skipped stitches or thread shredding.
• Adhesion: Use a temporary spray adhesive (like Odif 505) to baste your batting to the stabilizer. Floating layers will shift under the friction of a quilting motif.
• Bobbin: Ensure you have a full bobbin. Running out of bobbin thread in the middle of a complex quilting motif is a nightmare to overlap invisibly.

The "Thick Sandwich" Problem: Standard plastic hoops struggle with QAYG blocks. You have to unscrew them significantly to fit the fabric+batting sandwich, and then tightening them often causes "hoop burn" (permanent rings on the fabric) or pops open mid-stitch. This is a primary scenario where upgrading to magnetic embroidery hoops pays for itself. The magnets snap down over thick layers instantly without adjusting screws, holding the sandwich firm without crushing the fibers.

Prep Checklist (end-of-section)

• Data: Original design size confirmed (e.g., 4.91" × 4.15").
• Image: Screenshot cropped tightly (zero whitespace).
• Math: Inches converted to whole pixels (rounded).
• Template: 576×576 pixel canvas created in Paint.
• Combine: Design pasted and visually centered in template.
• Locking: Bounding box drawn around the 6x6 template edge.
• Blade Check: Rotary cutter and embroidery scissors are sharp.

Setup

Bridging the gap between computer and machine.

Embird setup checkpoints

1. Preferences: Verify hoop is set to 150 × 150 mm.
2. Import Scale: When asked "Resize?" upon import, you clicked YES.
3. Visualization: You see the bounding box touching the edge of the digital hoop.

If you are running a production shop or a serious hobby studio, repeatability is key. Loading the hoop accurately onto the machine is just as important as the software setup. Many professionals use a hooping station for embroidery to ensure every block is hooped at the exact same angle and tension, eliminating the "crooked block" syndrome.

Warning: Magnet Safety. If you upgrade to high-strength magnetic hoops, treat them like loaded weapons. Do not place them on your laptop, near pacemakers, or let them snap onto your fingers. The pinching force of industrial-grade magnets can cause blood blisters or worse.

Setup Checklist (end-of-section)

• Preferences > Hoop Size is correct.
• Bounding box matches the grid limits.
• The "Punch a Hole" gap is visible (3-5mm).
• Machine needle is fresh (Size 90/14 recommended).

Operation

The "Go" phase.

Step-by-step with checkpoints and expected outcomes

1) Create the background shape and motif

• Action: Draw the closed shape and fill with motif.
• Sensory Check: It looks like a solid block of pattern.
• Outcome: A background object covers the entire hoop visually.

2) Punch a hole around the main design

• Action: Trace the "Safety Zone" (3-5mm buffer).
• Outcome: A clean "donut hole" appears in the background motif.

3) Compile to Editor and merge the original embroidery

• Action: Move to Editor -> Merge File.
• Visual Check: Zoom in to 200%. Ensure no background stitches encroach on the main design.

4) Set stitch order to Last for the motif

• Action: Check the object list.
• Outcome: 1. Owl (Design) -> 2. Background (Quilting).

Production Tip: If you are doing 20 of these blocks for a large quilt, speed matters. Standard single-needle machines require frequent thread changes. If your volume warrants it, moving to a multi-needle machine (like the SEWTECH series) allows you to set up all your colors at once, drastically reducing the "baby-sitting" time at the machine.

Operation Checklist (end-of-section)

• Background motif generated.
• "Hole" punched with safety margin.
• Files merged in Editor.
• Stitch Order confirmed: Design First, Background Last.
• Final visual inspection at 100% scale.
• File saved to USB/Machine.

Quality Checks

Before committing a $10 yard of fabric, run a mental simulation.

Visual checks in Embird

• The "Kissing" Check: Zoom in tight on the border between design and background. Do the stitches touch? If yes, re-punch the hole wider.
• The Travel Check: Run the "Simulator" (Shift+S) in Embird. Watch the needle path. Does it jump across the design unnecessarily? (Add trim commands if so).

Practical stitch-out checks (general guidance)

• Sound Check: A quilting motif should sound rhythmic ("hum-hum-hum"). If you hear a loud "thump-thump," your needle is struggling to penetrate dense areas, or your layers are flagging. Check your stabilizer.
• Hooping: If your design looks centered in software but stitches out crooked, the issue is physical. Using a hooping station for machine embroidery helps align the fabric grain with the hoop axis, ensuring square blocks every time.

Decision tree: choose stabilizer/backing for quilt-as-you-go blocks

QAYG is unique because the batting often acts as the stabilizer, but it's not enough on its own.

1. Block Type: Standard Quilt Cotton + Batting
   • Recommendation: No-Show Mesh (Poly Mesh). It provides stability without adding bulk or stiffness to the quilt.
2. Block Type: Stretchy Fabric (T-Shirt Quilt) + Batting
   • Recommendation: Fusible Cut-Away + Spray Baste. You must stop the stretch before hooping.
3. Are you experiencing "Hoop Pop"? (Hoop inner ring popping out during stitching)
   • Diagnosis: Your sandwich is too thick for standard friction hoops.
   • Solution: Do not force the screw. Use Gaffer Tape on the corners for a temp fix, or switch to magnetic embroidery hoops, which clamp vertically rather than relying on hoop friction.

Troubleshooting

Diagnosing the "Why" behind the failure.

Symptom: The motif stitches OVER the center design.

• Likely Cause: You forgot to use "Punch a Hole," or you merged the files but didn't delete the background stitches under the owl.
• Quick Fix: Go back to Embird Studio. Select background -> Punch a Hole -> Re-generate.

Symptom: "Hoop Burn" or crushed batting rings.

• Likely Cause: The hoop screw was tightened too much to accommodate the thick layers, crushing the fibers permanently.
• Quick Fix: Steam may lift the fibers.
• Prevention: Use a scraping technique to hoop, or upgrade to hooping for embroidery machine tools like magnetic frames that don't rely on friction rings.

Symptom: The imported image size is wrong.

• Likely Cause: You skipped the "Bounding Box" step in Paint, or Embird didn't detect the white edges.
• Quick Fix: Add a 1-pixel wide black border to your reference image in Paint and re-import.

Symptom: The design is bulletproof/stiff.

• Likely Cause: The background motif density is too high.
• Quick Fix: In Embird parameters, increase the "Scale" of the motif pattern or decrease density. For QAYG, "lighter is better." Use negative space; you don't need solid coverage.

Results

By following Donna’s workflow, you achieve structural integrity.

1. Preparation ensured the map was accurate.
2. Setup ensured the software read the map correctly.
3. Operation ensured the machine executed the layers in the right order (Anchor first, Quilt second).

The result is a Quilt-as-you-go block that lays flat, joins easily, and has that professional "puffed" look around the embroidery.

If you find yourself spending more time fighting the hoop than digitizing, consider your physical workflow. Simple additions like hooping stations for alignment, or embroidery hooping station setups for consistency, can double your output by removing the "re-do" factor. For those pushing into higher volumes, remember that tools like SEWTECH multi-needle machines are built to handle these complex, color-rich blocks day in and day out. Happy stitching