Table of Contents
- Primer: What This Bow Embroidery Achieves (and When to Use Each Method)
- Prep: Tools, Materials, Files, and Workspace
- Setup: Smart Software and Machine Choices
- Operation: Method 1 — Non-Appliqué Bow (Sweater Cut-Out)
- Operation: Method 2 — Traditional Appliqué Bow (T-Shirt Insert)
- Quality Checks: What “Good” Looks Like
- Results & Handoff: Finish, Trim, and Wear
- Troubleshooting & Recovery
- From the comments: Quick Q&A
Video reference: “Machine Embroidery: Appliqué Bow on Sweater & Shirt | Ricoma MT-1501” by KAYLA'S MAKINGS.
A side bow that looks boutique-level without boutique stress? Yes, please. This guide teaches you two complete ways to stitch the trending lace-edge bow: a peekaboo cut-out on a sweater and a crisp, layered appliqué on a T-shirt—plus how to streamline the file in Chroma so it stitches exactly the way you want.
What you’ll learn
- How to modify the bow file in Chroma to remove interior lace/crisscross layers while keeping the outer lace effect.
- A stable hoop-and-float approach for side-seam placement on sweaters and T-shirts.
- Clean cutting techniques for both cut-out and fabric-insert methods.
- HeatnBond Light prep, alignment tricks, and edge cleanup (including a lighter for fuzz).
- Troubleshooting: fabric shifting, stitching the shirt to itself, and edge fray control.
Primer: What This Bow Embroidery Achieves (and When to Use Each Method) The bow sits along the side seam of a sweater or tee and features satin and lace-like edge stitches. You can stitch it two ways:
- Non-appliqué (cut-out): You stitch the bow outline on the garment, then carefully cut out interior areas. The garment color becomes the “inside” of the bow, creating a peekaboo effect.
- Traditional appliqué (fabric insert): You place a bonded fabric on top of the garment after a tack-down, trim it, and finish with satin and lace-like edges.
When to choose what
- Choose the cut-out method when you want the garment itself to peek through—ideal on stable sweaters where the color contrast is interesting.
- Choose the appliqué method when you want a bold color block or contrast fabric layer on a T-shirt.
From the comments
- Several embroiderers liked the bow without fabric (cut-out) just as much as the appliqué. If you prefer a minimalist look, go cut-out.
- A viewer asked if the green top was a sweater or a sweatshirt. The creator clarified: the green piece is a sweater; the blue is a shirt.
Decision point
- If your garment is thick or textured and you want a peekaboo effect → go cut-out first.
- If you’re chasing high contrast color or prints → choose appliqué fabric insert.
Prep: Tools, Materials, Files, and Workspace Tools
- Multi-needle embroidery machine (demonstrated on a Ricoma unit)
- Hoop: 8×9 magnetic hoop (used for both projects)
- Iron (with steam or spray bottle if wrinkles persist)
- Curved-tip appliqué scissors; seam ripper (optional)
- Adhesive spray
- Lighter (for final edge cleanup)
Materials
- Cut-away stabilizer (used for both sweater and tee)
- Garments: sweater and T-shirt
- Thread (colors to suit garment)
- For appliqué method: Royal blue fabric and HeatnBond Light
Files
- Bow design in sizes including 5, 5.5, 6, 7, and 8 inches (6-inch used)
- Modified version where interior lace and crisscross are removed
Workspace
- Clear table space for hooping and fabric placement.
Quick check
- Confirm you have the cut-away stabilizer, appliqué scissors, adhesive spray, and HeatnBond Light ready.
Checklist — Prep done when you can say:
- The bow file is on your USB in the size you’ll stitch.
- Stabilizer, fabric (for appliqué), and garments are at hand.
- The iron is warm; scissors and lighter are nearby. embroidery magnetic hoops
Setup: Smart Software and Machine Choices Design editing in Chroma The design ships with interior lace and a crisscross fill. Keep the outer lace effect, but remove interior lace and crisscross for a cleaner inside satin area. In Chroma, import the 6-inch file, identify the interior lace objects, and delete them individually; hide or remove the crisscross layer. This preserves the outer lace edge while simplifying the interior for both methods.
From the comments
- Software level: The creator confirms using Chroma Luxe (advanced tier). If your software cannot delete individual stitch objects, consider opening the design in Chroma if available to you.
Machine setup
- Hoop cut-away stabilizer in your 8×9 magnetic hoop.
- Load the modified bow design.
- For side-seam placement on a sweater, flip the design upside down so the bulk of the garment sits outside the machine throat (easier to manage).
- Set thread colors; enable a stop after each step so you can cut and reposition between sequences.
Quick check
- Trace the design to confirm it won’t hit the hoop edges.
- Verify stop mode is enabled so you can pause for cutting and placement.
Checklist — Setup done when:
- Design is flipped (for sweater) and traced.
- The placement stitch is ready to run on stabilizer.
- You can reach under the hoop easily to feel for stray fabric before every run. mighty hoop 8x9
Operation: Method 1 — Non-Appliqué Bow (Sweater Cut-Out) 1) Stitch a placement on stabilizer
- Mount the hooped stabilizer.
- Run the placement stitch directly on stabilizer. This outlines where the bow will land and gives you a line to align the garment seam.
2) Float the sweater and align perfectly
- Lay the sweater on the hooped stabilizer: align the side seam to the center of the bow; align the hem with the bottom of the bow outline.
- Use adhesive spray to secure the sweater to the stabilizer, smoothing away any ripples.
Watch out
- Before pressing Start, reach under the hoop and make sure no part of the sweater is caught near the bobbin area.
3) Tack-down, then precision cut
- Run the next outline (as if it were an appliqué tack-down). This creates a firm edge to cut against.
- Using curved appliqué scissors, cut out the inner areas of the bow on the sweater—snipping close to the tack-down without nicking stitches.
Pro tip
- Make small, controlled cuts and rotate the hoop, not the scissors. This helps you stay snug to the seam line without cutting threads. ricoma mighty hoop starter kit
4) Finish stitching - Run the interior satin, then the outer lace-like detail. Expect a neat satin around the cut edges and delicate lace along the perimeter.
5) Unhoop and clean up - Remove the hoop, trim excess stabilizer on the back. If tiny fuzz shows on cut edges, a very light pass with a lighter tidies it up.
Expected result
- A clean peekaboo bow where the sweater itself shows as the interior; satin edges are smooth, outer lace is even.
Checklist — Method 1
- Placement on stabilizer aligned to the garment seam.
- Tack-down stitched; inner areas cut cleanly.
- Satin and lace sequences completed; back trimmed. magnetic hoops for embroidery
Operation: Method 2 — Traditional Appliqué Bow (T-Shirt Insert) 1) Prepare appliqué fabric
- Iron the fabric smooth. For stubborn wrinkles, use steam or a light water spray.
- Apply HeatnBond Light to the wrong side; press until the adhesive turns shiny. Remove the paper liner.
From the comments
- A viewer asked why HeatnBond was used. The creator confirms HeatnBond Lite was applied to the blue fabric for the appliqué step.
2) Placement stitch and garment float
- Hoop cut-away stabilizer and run the placement stitch (white thread is helpful for visibility on darker garments).
- Align the T-shirt’s side seam with the bow center and the hem with the bottom of the outline; spray baste to secure.
Quick check
- Ensure the bonded fabric will fully cover the design area before the next tack-down.
3) Tack-down and trim the appliqué
- Run the tack-down for fabric placement.
- Place the HeatnBond-backed fabric to fully cover the outline.
- Stitch the second tack-down. Trim the excess appliqué fabric closely around the seam for crisp edges.
Watch out
- Cut only the appliqué fabric when trimming the outside—avoid cutting the T-shirt itself.
4) Cut the inner T-shirt area
- Carefully cut out the inner area of the T-shirt only (inside the bow) so the bow’s interior opens up while the appliqué fabric remains. This creates the two-layer look.
5) Finish stitching and cleanup - Stitch the interior satin and the outer lace-like edge. Unhoop, trim stabilizer, and touch up any fuzz with a lighter if needed. Expect a bold, color-blocked bow that pops.
Checklist — Method 2
- Fabric bonded, smooth, and fully covering.
- Tack-downs stitched; outside appliqué trimmed neatly.
- Inner T-shirt area cut; final satin and lace complete. embroidery hoops magnetic
Quality Checks: What “Good” Looks Like Alignment
- The bow’s vertical center tracks right along the garment’s side seam.
- The bow’s lower edge sits cleanly at the hem line without gaps or overhang.
Edge quality
- Satin is dense and even with no thread nicks from cutting.
- Lace-like outer details lie flat and continuous with no missed sections.
Back of garment
- Stabilizer trimmed smoothly; no birdnesting; no accidental stitching through to the back layer.
Quick check
- Lightly tug the appliqué fabric edges (Method 2). They should not lift. If they do, revisit bonding and stitch density.
Results & Handoff: Finish, Trim, and Wear
- For both methods, trim away excess cut-away on the back and lightly seal fuzz with a small flame pass if the fabric tolerates it.
- The sweater (cut-out) gives a peekaboo effect—stylish and breathable along the side seam.
- The T-shirt (appliqué) delivers strong contrast where the appliqué fabric shows under the cut interior.
Care notes
- For lace-like edges, gentle laundering helps preserve the delicate look. If you experiment with washaway for freestanding lace sections, rinse per product instructions.
Optional advanced variation (community-inspired)
- Several embroiderers suggested a fabric-like washaway stabilizer for freestanding-style lace areas to avoid visible cut-away inside the bow. Test first to ensure your stitch densities and fabric combo hold up. mighty hoop magnetic embroidery hoops
Troubleshooting & Recovery Symptom: The garment shifts during stitching
- Likely cause: Not enough adhesive or poor smoothing during placement.
- Fix: Spray baste more evenly and press the garment firmly before each run. Consider small pieces of tape near corners.
Symptom: Accidentally stitched the shirt to itself
- Likely cause: Bottom layer crept under the hoop near the bobbin area.
- Fix: Before every run, slide a hand under the hoop to confirm nothing is caught. Stop and free any folds immediately.
Symptom: Frayed cut edges
- Likely cause: Cuts too far from tack-down or fabric type shedding.
- Fix: Re-trim closer to the tack-down. Carefully singe fuzz with a lighter. Work slowly to avoid scorching.
Symptom: Nicked a satin thread while cutting
- Likely cause: Scissors bumped the stitch line.
- Fix: Use curved appliqué scissors with short snips. If needed, carefully restitch that segment or cover with a tidy satin repair pass.
Symptom: Interior lace shows stabilizer
- Community advice: Try a fabric-like washaway (often called Vilene-type) for lace zones so any stabilizer remnants rinse away. Several commenters reported strong support for lace.
Quick isolation tests
- Test a small scrap sandwich with the same stabilizer and fabric to see how the satin edge responds to cutting and heat. magnetic hoops
From the comments: Quick Q&A Q: Which Chroma level handled the stitch deletions? A: Chroma Luxe.
Q: Can this be achieved in other programs? A: The walkthrough relies on deleting specific stitch objects. If your software can’t do that, you may need to open the file in Chroma.
Q: Why use HeatnBond Light on the appliqué fabric? A: It helps the appliqué layer bond smoothly and trim cleanly before final satin and lace stitching.
Q: How are people keeping lace on the inside without visible stabilizer? A: Multiple embroiderers recommend a fabric-like washaway stabilizer for lace sections. Test for stitch support and post-rinse finish.
Q: Where can I buy the exact bow file? A: The creator shared an Etsy listing link in the comment thread for the lace bow appliqué.
Appendix: Step-by-step snapshots - Design edits in Chroma (deleting interior lace/crisscross):
- Hooping stabilizer in an 8×9 magnetic hoop:
- Mounting the hoop and running the placement stitch:
- Aligning and floating the sweater:
- Tack-down and precision cutting for the cut-out:
- Satin/lace finish and result on sweater:
- HeatnBond prep and placement for appliqué:
- Trimming appliqué and final finish on tee:
Pro tip
- Flip the design for side-seam work so the bulk of the garment sits outside the machine throat. It makes management easier and helps avoid collisions. hoopmaster
Gear note
- This project used an 8×9 magnetic hoop and a multi-needle machine, but the workflow (placement on stabilizer, float, tack-down, trim, finish) is transferable to single-needle setups with thoughtful hooping. mighty hoops for ricoma