Stop Bulky Appliqué: Automate ScanNCut-to-Embrilliance Stitch Artist 2 and Let Overlaps Clean Themselves

If you’ve ever stitched an appliqué block and then felt that sinking “why is this so thick?” moment, you’re not alone. We call it the “Bulletproof Patch Effect.” The bulk almost always comes from one culprit: blanket stitches running under fabric that will never be seen.

In this workflow, Becky from Power Tools with Thread demonstrates a fully automated path—from physical templates to a clean appliqué stitch file—using Brother ScanNCut SDX325, CanvasWorkspace (online), and Embrilliance Stitch Artist 2. The real magic is getting Embrilliance to remove hidden stitches under overlaps, so your quilt block stays flatter, stitches cleaner, and your machine isn’t fighting through four layers of thread density.

Below is the same method, rebuilt into a studio-ready process with sensory checkpoints, expected outcomes, and the empirical “gotchas” that show up in real production environments.

The Tool Stack That Makes This Workflow Fast (Brother ScanNCut SDX325 + Embrilliance Stitch Artist 2)

You’re combining two worlds: Physical accuracy from templates (Sew Simple Shapes style) and Digital control from vectors.

Becky’s setup is straightforward, but let's define the role of each tool:

• Brother ScanNCut SDX325: The "Eye." It digitizes the physical shape into a vector line.
• CanvasWorkspace (Cloud Version): The "Cleaner." It removes the scanner noise so you have clean lines.
• Embrilliance Stitch Artist 2: The "Brain." It converts lines to stitches and calculates overlap removal. (Note: You specifically need Level 2 for the vector import capability).
• Brother Single-Needle Machine + ~5x7 Hoop: The "Muscle."

One operational note: The downloaded CanvasWorkspace often behaves differently than the online version. Stick to the browser-based version to match Becky's workflow (using "My Projects"). If your screen doesn’t match hers pixel-for-pixel, focus on the concept: Clean Vectors in, .FCM file out.

The “Hidden” Prep That Prevents Wasted Hours (Templates, Marker Contrast, and Fabric Reality)

Before you touch software, you’re setting yourself up for a clean scan. 80% of digitizing failures happen here, on the physical paper.

What the video does

Becky traces the needed shapes onto plain printer paper using a thick marker to create high-contrast outlines. She uses Lori Holt’s Bee Vintage strawberry block templates.

Why this prep matters (Expert Insight)

Scanners are dumb. They don't see "shapes"; they see contrast. A thin ballpoint pen line often breaks when scanned, creating “open shapes” that software can’t fill. A thick, dark marker (like a Sharpie or Crayola) creates a closed loop.

Sensory Check: When you look at your traced paper, if you have to squint to see a line, the scanner will miss it. The line should be bold, confident, and pitch black against white paper.

Business Reality: When you eventually hoop this, fabric tension is everything. If you are using standard frames and pulling fabric “drum tight” (a common mistake), your placement lines will distort when you unhoop. If you use magnetic embroidery hoops, the fabric floats naturally, meaning the digital file matches the physical result much more accurately.

Prep Checklist (Do this *before* scanning)

• Contrast Check: Marker line is at least 1-2mm thick and solid black (no "dry marker" streaks).
• Paper Check: Used clean, flat printer paper (wrinkled paper creates shadow artifacts).
• Consumable Check: Have different colored markers if scanning multiple layers on one page (helps visual sorting later).
• Grouping: All shapes for one block are on one sheet to avoid file management chaos.
• Hoop Target: You know your hoop limit (e.g., 5x7 or 130x180mm) so you don't trace a shape that won't fit.
  

Clean the Scan Like a Pro in CanvasWorkspace (25% View Trick + “Move Off the Mat” Cleanup)

A raw scan is full of "digital dust"—tiny specks that will confuse your embroidery machine.

What the video does

In CanvasWorkspace (online):

1. Opens scan from My Projects.
2. Sets View Percentage to 25% (Crucial step: brings the whole mat into view).
3. The "Move Off" Trick: She drags the good vector shapes off the virtual mat area.
4. Selects the entire mat area (which now contains only "noise" and artifacts) and hits Delete.
5. Moves good shapes back, renames the project, and downloads as .FCM.

Expected Outcome: A sterile, clean file with only the specific cut lines you intend to stitch.

Why this works (The "Signal-to-Noise" Ratio)

It is much faster to move the 3 things you want than to delete the 500 tiny specks you don't want. This prevents the dreaded "phantom jump stitch" where your embroidery machine travels across the hoop to stitch a single microscopic dot.

The Two Embrilliance Preferences That Decide Whether Overlaps Actually Work (Jumps and Overlaps)

If you skip this, you can do everything perfectly and still end up with a bulky, needle-breaking mess.

What the video does

In Embrilliance:

• Click Preferences (Gear Icon).
• Select Jumps and Overlaps.
• Check these two boxes:
  1. Remove overlaps when saving Stitch files
  2. Treat objects labeled applique position as filled
• Click Apply/OK.
• CRITICAL: Close Embrilliance and restart it.

Why the restart? Software often loads preferences into memory on startup. Changing them mid-session doesn't always trigger the calculation engine until a reboot.

Warning: Physical Safety
Ignoring overlap settings doesn't just look bad—it breaks needles. Stitching a dense blanket stitch on top of another dense blanket stitch creates a "hard spot" that can deflect the needle, causing it to snap and potentially fly towards your face. Always use safety glasses when testing new densities.

The Overlap-Safe Method: Separate Each Appliqué Piece into Its Own “Design” in Stitch Artist 2

This is the part that confuses beginners. We are not just making objects; we are making separate "containers."

The Logic (Cognitive Chunking)

Think of a "Design" in Embrilliance as a separate bucket. If you put all shapes in one bucket, the software thinks they are one flat image. If you put them in separate buckets (Design 1, Design 2), the software calculates how they interact with each other—including removing the hidden parts.

Step-by-Step Execution

1. Enter Creator Mode: Go to Create > Create Designs.
2. Import: Create > Vector and open your clean strawberry .FCM.
3. Isolate Component A (Stem):
   • In the Objects panel, select the Stem.
   • Right-click and "Move First" (or drag to top).
   • Delete the other objects temporarily (don't worry, we re-import).
   • Now "Design 1" contains ONLY the Stem.
4. Create New Container: Click Create Design > Begin New Design. (You will see "Design 2" appear in the object tree).
5. Re-Import: Import the master .FCM again into Design 2.
6. Isolate Component B (Strawberry): Delete everything in Design 2 except the Strawberry body.
7. Repeat: Do this for every distinct layer (Top, Flower, Center).

Checkpoint: Your Object Panel should look like a staircase:

• Design 1: Stem
• Design 2: Strawberry
• Design 3: Hat
  
  
  
  
  

The Alignment Moment That Saves Your Stitch-Out (Align and Distribute for Flower + Center)

Tiny alignment errors on screen = huge gaps on fabric.

What the video does

Becky selects the flower center and the flower outline, leaves Stitch Artist mode coverage, and uses Align and Distribute to center them perfectly (Vertical and Horizontal centers).

Why this matters (Expert Insight)

Appliqué is unforgiving. A 1mm gap looks like a canyon on a finished quilt block.

This is also where your physical tools matter. If you are digitizing with 0.5mm precision, but your hooping is sloppy, the file quality doesn't matter. A hooping station for embroidery ensures that your physical fabric is square, so when the machine seeks "Center," it is actually the center of your block.

Convert Vectors to Blanket Stitch Appliqué (and Don’t Trust the Preview Yet)

Now we turn lines into thread.

The Process

1. Select all designs in the object tree.
2. Click the Appliqué Button (Little shield/badge icon).
3. In the Properties pane, change the style from "E-Stitch" or "Satin" to Blanket Stitch.
4. Empirical Data: Standard blanket stitch width is typically 3.0mm - 3.5mm. Anything smaller than 2.5mm may not "bite" the fabric enough; anything larger than 4.0mm looks clunky on a quilt block.

The Trap: On your screen, it will look like the stitches are overlapping. This is normal. You are viewing the "Working File (.BE)". The removal happens only when saving the "Stitch File (.PES/.DST)".

The “Save + Reopen” Test That Proves Hidden Stitches Are Gone (Details View)

Never stitch a file you haven't verified visually.

The Verification Loop

1. Save: File > Save Stitch File As (e.g., Strawberry.PES).
2. Re-Open: Open a new page and load that .PES file.
3. Inspect: Zoom in closely on the intersection where the Stem meets the Body.
4. Visual Anchor: You should see the running stitch (placement) continue under the strawberry, but the thick blanket stitch should abruptly stop exactly where the strawberry fabric begins.

If the blanket stitch continues underneath, go back to Troubleshooting.

Stitch-Out Reality Check: Hooping, Stabilizer, and Quilt Physics

Becky’s stitch-out shows the machine layering the green stem, then the pink body.

Becky mentions using No-Show Mesh (Poly Mesh) stabilizer. This is a controversial but correct choice for quilting.

Stability Decision Tree

Use this to determine what to put under your hoop:

• Scenario A: Soft Quilt Block (Lori Holt Style)
  • Choice: No-Show Mesh (1.5 - 2.0 oz) or a very light tear-away.
  • Why: You don't want a "cardboard" square in the middle of a soft quilt.
  • Risk: Steps require excellent hooping to avoid puckering.
• Scenario B: Dense Appliqué / Stretchy Fabric
  • Choice: Cutaway Stabilizer (2.5 oz+).
  • Why: Keeps the block perfectly square.
  • Trade-off: Slightly stiffer feel.

Warning: Magnetic Force Danger
If you upgrade to magnetic embroidery hoops for brother to handle these thick quilt sandwiches, be aware: these magnets are industrial strength. They can pinch fingers severely. Never place them near pacemakers or allow two magnets to snap together without a buffer.

Operation Checklist (During Stitch-Out)

• Needle Check: Use a 75/11 Sharp or Embroidery needle. A dull needle will push the appliqué fabric rather than piercing it.
• The "Drift" Check: Watch the first placement line run. If the fabric shifts, stop immediately.
• Trimming: Use Double-Curved Appliqué Scissors. Keep the blades flat against the stabilizer to avoid snipping your base fabric.
• Sensory Check: Listen to the machine. A rhythmic "thump-thump" is normal. A loud, sharp "CLICK" usually means the needle hit the presser foot (alignment issue) or a knot.

Troubleshooting the Problems People *Actually* Hit

Structured logical path to solve issues without guessing.

The Upgrade Path: Moving from Hobby to Production

Once you master this digital workflow, the bottleneck shifts from your computer to your hands. Hooping repetitive blocks is physically exhausting and prone to "Hoop Burn" (those shiny rings left on fabric).

If you plan to make an entire quilt (12, 20, or 30 blocks):

1. Level 1 (Technique): Use "floating" techniques with spray adhesive to avoid hooping the fabric directly.
2. Level 2 (Tool): Switch to a brother 5x7 magnetic hoop. This eliminates the thumbscrew tightening, prevents hoop burn completely, and makes re-hooping 5x faster.
3. Level 3 (Scale): If you are selling these blocks or kits, a multi-needle machine (like SEWTECH brand) allows you to set up multiple thread colors at once, reducing the start-stop time for color changes significantly.

Setup Checklist (Ready for Next Block?)

• Clean Vectors: No artifacts left on the CanvasWorkspace mat.
• Restarted: Embrilliance was restarted after preference changes.
• Separated: Every appliqué piece is in its own "Design" bucket.
• Verified: You opened the .PES file and visually confirmed the stitch removal.
• Consumables: Fresh needle installed for a fresh project.

The Result

By letting the software handle the overlap, your quilt blocks lie flat, your machine runs smoother, and you save thread. It turns a "struggle stitch" into a professional, studio-quality block.

FAQ

• Q: How do I make Embrilliance Stitch Artist 2 remove blanket stitches under overlapping appliqué fabrics when saving a .PES stitch file?
  A: Enable the two overlap settings in Embrilliance, then restart the software before saving the stitch file.
  • Open Preferences (gear icon) > Jumps and Overlaps, check “Remove overlaps when saving Stitch files” and “Treat objects labeled applique position as filled.”
  • Close Embrilliance completely and reopen it (the overlap engine may not recalculate until restart).
  • Save as a stitch file (.PES/.DST), then reopen that stitch file on a new page to verify removal.
  • Success check: in the reopened .PES, the thick blanket stitch stops exactly at the overlap edge, while the placement/running line may continue underneath.
  • If it still fails: confirm each appliqué layer was built as a separate “Design” container (Design 1, Design 2, etc.), not merged into one bucket.
• Q: In Embrilliance Stitch Artist 2, why do blanket stitches still appear to overlap on screen even after “Remove overlaps when saving Stitch files” is enabled?
  A: The working file preview can look overlapped; overlap removal is proven only after saving and reopening the actual stitch file.
  • Save the design as a stitch file (example: Strawberry.PES) rather than judging the .BE working view.
  • Reopen the saved .PES in a fresh page and zoom into the intersections (stem-to-body, flower-to-center).
  • Success check: the blanket stitch segments are missing under the top fabric area in the reopened stitch file view.
  • If it still fails: restart Embrilliance after changing Preferences and re-check that each appliqué piece is separated into its own “Design.”
• Q: In Embrilliance Stitch Artist 2, why is the “Vector” import button missing when trying to bring in a Brother ScanNCut .FCM file?
  A: Embrilliance Stitch Artist Level 2 (or higher) is required for vector import; Level 1 will not show the Vector option.
  • Confirm the installed Stitch Artist level/license includes vector import capability.
  • Use Create mode and import via the Vector option only after verifying Level 2+ is active.
  • Success check: the Vector import option is visible and the .FCM opens with clean outlines in the Objects panel.
  • If it still fails: re-check the file type is .FCM exported from CanvasWorkspace and not a different format.
• Q: In Brother CanvasWorkspace (online), how do I remove scan “specks” that cause phantom jump stitches in an .FCM cut/outline file?
  A: Use the “move good shapes off the mat, delete the mat noise” cleanup method at 25% view.
  • Set View Percentage to 25% so the full mat is visible.
  • Drag the correct vector shapes off the mat area first.
  • Select the mat area (now mostly noise/artifacts) and delete it, then move the good shapes back.
  • Success check: only the intended cut lines remain; no tiny dots are left that could create long travel/jump stitches.
  • If it still fails: re-scan using thicker, darker marker lines on clean flat paper to reduce scanner noise.
• Q: When scanning appliqué templates with Brother ScanNCut SDX325, how do I prevent “open shapes” that CanvasWorkspace cannot fill cleanly?
  A: Trace templates with a bold, high-contrast marker so the scanner captures a closed loop.
  • Trace with a thick black marker line (the outline should look solid, not faint or broken).
  • Use clean, flat printer paper to avoid wrinkles/shadows that create artifacts.
  • Group all shapes for one block on one sheet to reduce file confusion during cleanup.
  • Success check: on the paper, the outline reads clearly without squinting; in CanvasWorkspace, the outline forms continuous closed shapes.
  • If it still fails: retrace the template with a thicker/darker marker and rescan under even lighting.
• Q: During appliqué stitch-out on a Brother single-needle embroidery machine, how do I know hooping is stable before committing to the full blanket stitch?
  A: Watch the first placement line closely—if fabric drifts, stop and re-hoop before the dense stitches start.
  • Start the design and monitor the first placement/running line for any shifting.
  • Use the stabilizer choice that matches the block (No-Show Mesh for a softer block, cutaway for denser or stretchy materials).
  • Trim with double-curved appliqué scissors, keeping blades flat to avoid snipping base fabric.
  • Success check: the placement line lands cleanly where expected with no visible fabric creep or distortion.
  • If it still fails: improve grip/handling (often a magnetic hoop reduces slip without pulling fabric drum-tight).
• Q: What needle safety risk happens if Embrilliance Stitch Artist 2 does not remove dense blanket stitch overlaps in appliqué designs?
  A: Dense blanket stitch-on-blanket stitch creates hard spots that can deflect and snap needles, so verify overlap removal before stitching.
  • Enable overlap removal settings and restart Embrilliance before exporting the stitch file.
  • Run the “Save + Reopen” inspection on the .PES to confirm hidden blanket stitches are removed.
  • Wear safety glasses when test-stitching new densities or settings.
  • Success check: the machine runs through overlap areas without loud sharp “clicks,” and the stitch-out does not form rock-hard stacked zones.
  • If it still fails: stop immediately, re-check Preferences and design separation, and do not continue stitching a file that still stacks dense stitches.
• Q: What is the safety risk of using magnetic embroidery hoops for thick quilt sandwiches, and how can the risk be reduced during hooping?
  A: Magnetic hoops can pinch fingers severely and must be kept away from pacemakers; handle magnets slowly and with controlled spacing.
  • Keep hands clear of the closing path and avoid letting two magnets snap together unbuffered.
  • Do not place magnetic hoops near pacemakers or sensitive medical devices.
  • Place and remove magnets deliberately, one section at a time, instead of “dropping” them into place.
  • Success check: magnets seat without sudden snapping, and fingers never enter the pinch zone during placement.
  • If it still fails: pause and change handling technique before continuing—never force magnets when alignment feels unstable.