Resizing on Ricoma, Usha/Janome, or HSW: Why Your Stitch Count Stays the Same (and How to Avoid Thin, Ugly Embroidery)

If you have ever stood in front of your embroidery machine while a customer (or a friend) points at an LCD screen and says, “Can you just make that logo a little bigger?” you know the pressure. You want to say yes. You want to move fast. You hit the (+) button until it looks right.

But there is a dangerous myth in our industry that quietly destroys profit margins and ruins expensive garments: the belief that resizing on the machine automatically adds stitches.

In the accompanying video, the presenter turns this into a quiz and proves the uncomfortable truth across multiple machine interfaces. The answer is False. When you scale a design up on your machine's control panel, the stitch count usually stays exactly the same. The machine simply "stretches" the existing wireframe.

The result? The density drops, the fabric shows through the gaps, and the embroidery looks cheap. As an embroidery educator, I want to walk you through why this happens, how to verify it with your own eyes, and exactly when—and how—to upgrade your tools to prevent these costly mistakes.

The “Bigger Design = More Stitches” Myth (Ricoma/Usha/HSW Operators Fall for This Under Pressure)

The quiz question in the video is the one I hear in every busy shop: “If I increase the design size on the machine, will stitch count increase?” Many commenters answered “True/Yes,” which is exactly why this topic is critical. Most operators only learn the truth the hard way—usually after a thin fill or a weak satin column ruins a specialized garment that you can't replace.

Here is the reality the video demonstrates: when you scale up on the machine, the controller typically changes the physical dimensions but does not recalculate the stitch density. It does not "think" like digitizing software; it acts like a projector zooming out.

If you run production on modern commercial embroidery machines, this is one of those “small settings” errors that turns into hours of thread-picking rework or refunded orders.

The “Hidden” Prep Before You Touch Scale X/Y (Hoop, Stabilizer, and a Quick Reality Check)

Before you even touch the resize button—especially on a live garment—we need to institute a "pre-flight" protocol. On-machine scaling creates two specific risks: low density (if scaling up) and bulletproof density (if scaling down).

What the video gives us (and what experienced operators add)

The video focuses on the screen proof (stitch count doesn't change). In a real shop, the quality problems show up after you press Start. If you scale down by 20%, you are packing the same amount of thread into a smaller space. This creates a hard, bulletproof patch that breaks needles and shreds thread. If you scale up, you get gaps.

Two practical rules that keep you safe:

1. The 20% Sweet Spot: As a general rule of thumb for beginners, never scale more than 10% to 20% up or down on the console. Anything beyond that requires software intervention to recalculate the stitch math.
2. The Tension Check: Scaling changes the physics of the sew-out. If stitches are longer (scaled up), they are looser. If they are shorter (scaled down), they pull harder.

Prep Checklist (Do this BEFORE resizing)

• Establish Baseline: Write down the original stitch count, width, and height from the screen.
• Tactile Hoop Check: Tap the hooped fabric. It should sound like a drum—a rhythmic thump-thump. If it sounds dull or the fabric ripples, re-hoop.
• Needle Inspection: Run your fingernail down the needle shaft. If you feel a "click" or snag near the tip, change it. A burred needle combined with resized density is a recipe for disaster.
• Clearance Verification: manually trace the design to ensure the new, larger size doesn't hit the plastic frame of the hoop.
• Stock Consumables: Ensure you have spare needles (Size 75/11 is standard) and embroidery nips handy.

Warning: Keep fingers, snips, and loose sleeves away from the needle area during test runs and tracing—especially when you’re experimenting with scaling. A “quick check” can become a crushed finger or broken needle incident in a split second.

Ricoma Touchscreen Scaling: What Changes on the Panel (and What Doesn’t)

In the Ricoma demonstration, the operator navigates the touchscreen to the design setup/scaling area and inputs new percentages for X and Y. You perceive the border design preview expanding, and the numeric keypad overlay allows you to enter values like 110% or 120%.

The key takeaway isn’t the exact menu name (interfaces vary by firmware), it’s the behavior: the machine applies a simple geometric scale to the existing stitch map.

That’s why ricoma embroidery machines (and similar brands) can make a design look larger on the preview screen, but the underlying "stitch recipe" remains unchanged. It is simply stretching the ingredients to feed more people—the flavor will be diluted.

What to watch for on Ricoma-style panels

• X/Y scale fields accept percentage changes.
• The preview visually updates.
• Crucial: The controller typically does not rebuild the stitch file the way digitizing software does.

If your goal is “same look, just bigger,” this is where operators get trapped: the visual preview deceives you into thinking the density has been preserved.

The Usha/Janome Proof: Stitch Count Stays 20,907 Even After Scaling to 112%

This is the cleanest proof in the video (and the most damning evidence).

On the Usha/Janome-style screen, the operator checks the design data first: the file shown is “RE28b,” with 20,907 stitches (ST) and 6 colors. Then he increases the scale from 100% up to 112% using the “+” button, confirms the edit, and returns to the data screen.

Result: The stitch count remains exactly 20,907.

The design is 12% larger physically, but the machine has not added a single stitch to cover that extra surface area. This explains why fills look "see-through" (you can see the garment color between the threads) and satin columns look ragged.

If you’ve ever resized a generic file or a preset like the re28b embroidery hoop pattern on your machine and wondered why the result looked noticeably lighter than the original, this math is the culprit.

Setup Checklist (Usha/Janome-style verification)

• Record Data: Open the design and write down the baseline stitch count (e.g., 20,907 ST).
• Record Size: Note the baseline dimensions (Video shows 7.9" x 11.0").
• Action: Enter the resize/edit screen and increase scale (Video shows 112%).
• Verification: Return to the file info screen.
• Success Metric: Does the stitch count match your written note? If Yes, density has decreased. If No (and count went up), your machine has a rare auto-density feature (uncommon).

HSW / Dahao-Style Industrial Panel: X=110, Y=110 Still Doesn’t Recalculate Density

The video repeats the same test on an industrial controller (HSW with a Dahao-style interface). The operator selects the X and Y scale fields and types 110 for each.

Again, the important part is the logic: industrial controllers are designed to be "executioners," not "creators." They execute the .DST file given to them. They generally do not have the processing brain to regenerate stitch patterns on the fly.

So whether you’re on a prosumer screen or a robust factory panel, the principle holds: machine scaling changes size, not stitch math.

The “Why” Behind Thin Embroidery: Stitch Density, Fabric Physics, and Hooping Tension

The video states it plainly: scaling on the machine “stretches” stitches. Let’s translate that into sensory details—what you will actually describe to a customer if this goes wrong.

What “stretched stitches” look and feel like

• Visual: You see "gaps" or "teeth" in the satin borders. The fabric color peeks through the fill stitches (the Tatami).
• Tactile: The embroidery feels soft and possibly loose, rather than the crisp, raised texture of high-quality thread work.
• Structural: Long stitches snag easily on buttons, washing machines, or jewelry.

Why hooping suddenly matters more when you scale up

When stitches get longer and coverage gets lighter, the fabric becomes the “background” star. Any shifting of the fabric becomes immediately obvious because there isn't enough thread coverage to hide it.

Good hooping isn’t about brute force tightening—it’s about neutral tension. You want the fabric to be flat and stable, not stretched like a trampoline. If you stretch a t-shirt too much in the hoop, you sew the design, un-hoop it, and the fabric snaps back, creating puckers around your design. This is why hooping for embroidery machine technique is actually more important than the machine speed itself.

Decision Tree: Fabric → Stabilizer Choice

Use this logic flow to protect your density and registration.

START: What is your fabric?

1. Is it Stable/Woven? (Denim, Canvas, Twill, Uniforms)
   • Yes: Use Tearaway (2.5oz) or Medium Cutaway.
   • No: Go to Step 2.
2. Is it Stretchy/Unstable? (Performance wear, T-shirts, Knits)
   • Yes: MUST use Cutaway stabilizer (2.5oz - 3.0oz). The stabilizer provides the structure the fabric lacks.
   • No: Go to Step 3.
3. Is it Textured/Lofty? (Towels, Fleece, Pique Polos)
   • Yes: Use Cutaway (bottom) + Soluble Topper (top). The topper prevents your (now lower density) stitches from sinking into the pile.
   • No: Standard backing applies.

CRITICAL CHECK: Are you scaling UP on the machine >10%?

• Yes: Increase stabilizer weight level. The design is less stable, so the backing must do more work.

When Machine Scaling Is “Okay” (and When It’s a Trap)

Operators still scale on the machine for a reason: speed. I do it too. The trick is knowing your "Safe Zone."

Usually Acceptable (The Safe Zone)

• +/- 5% to 10%: Usually invisible to the naked eye.
• Running Stitch layouts: Simple vintage outlines or quilting lines often tolerate scaling well.
• Placement adjustments: Tweaking size slightly to fit inside a pocket diameter.

High Risk (The Trap)

• Large Fills (Tatami): These will turn into "mesh" if scaled up.
• Satin Text/Logos: Letters will lose their crisp edges and look jagged.
• Scaling DOWN (>10%): This creates a "bulletproof" patch. The density becomes so high that needles deflect, thread shreds, and the fabric rips.

If you need the stitch count to increase proportionally with size, the video is clear: you must Resize in Digitizing Software.

The Fix That Actually Works: Resize in Digitizing Software (So Stitches Recalculate)

The video’s troubleshooting section identifies the core issue and solution:

• Issue: Low stitch density or Bulletproof density.
• Cause: Determining geometry without determining stitch count (Machine Scaling).
• Solution: Processing the design through an algorithm that understands stitch properties (Software).

Software—even basic free editing tools—will regenerate the stitch count. If you make a circle twice as big in software, it will put twice as many stitches into it to maintain the 0.40mm standard density.

Comment-Style Reality Check: Why So Many People Answered “True”

The comments in the video are short—mostly “Yes/True”—but they reveal a massive gap in training. People assume computerized machines are "smart" like smartphones. They assume the machine sees a "Picture."

Implicit Consumable: If you are testing this and scaling DOWN, have a fresh pack of needles ready. The friction from high density dulls needles incredibly fast.

The Upgrade Path: Faster Hooping, Cleaner Results, and Better Throughput

Once you understand that machine scaling won't save a bad file, you realize that your efficiency bottleneck isn't the file—it's the physical setup.

If hooping is slow or leaves marks, change the tool—not your wrists

When you are doing repeats (logos, uniforms, teamwear), the fastest way to improve quality is to standardize your physical hooping. Traditional screw-tightened hoops are notorious for causing "Hoop Burn" (shiny ring marks) on delicate fabrics and causing Repetitive Strain Injury (RSI) in your wrists.

• The Problem: Traditional hoops require significant hand strength to tighten and can distort fabric biases.
• The Criteria: If you are running orders of 10+ items, or if you struggle to get smooth tension without "tugging," you need a tool upgrade.
• The Solution: Many professionals switch to embroidery machine hoops that utilize magnetic force. Specifically, magnetic embroidery hoops allow you to clamp the fabric instantly without adjusting a screw for every shirt thickness. This reduces "hoop burn" because the pressure is distributed vertically, not by friction.

Warning: Magnetic Safety. These are not fridge magnets. Industrial magnetic hoops contain neodymium magnets. They can pinch skin severely. Keep them away from pacemakers, medical implants, cell phones, and credit cards. Do not let two loose magnetic rings snap together; they can shatter.

Production mindset: one good file + one stable hooping method

In commercial work, the winning formula is boring but profitable:

1. A .DST file sized correctly in software (density is locked in).
2. A repeatable hooping method that doesn't rely on "muscle."
3. A hooping station for embroidery to ensure every logo is placed in the exact same spot on every shirt, reducing loading time by 50%.

Operation Checklist (your “before you press Start” habit)

• Verify Stats: Check the stitch count on the screen. Did it change from the original?
• Risk Assessment: If you scaled up on the machine, do you have a Topcoat/Topper to help hide gaps?
• Tactile Check: Tap the hoop. Is the fabric drum-tight?
• Test Run: If the job is for a paying customer, run the resized design on a scrap piece of similar fabric first.
• Thread Path: Ensure the thread path is clear. Low-density designs are unforgiving of tension issues; any top-thread loopiness will be very visible.

If you take only one lesson from the video, make it this: Machine scaling changes dimensions, not stitch count. Treat on-machine resizing as a "Convenience Tool" for tiny adjustments (1-10%), not a "Production Tool." When the job must look professional, resize in software, stabilize like you mean it, and consider using modern magnetic hooping tools to keep your fabric behavior predictable.

FAQ

• Q: On Ricoma embroidery machine touchscreens, why does scaling a design to 110% make the fill look thin even when the preview looks fine?
  A: Ricoma-style on-screen scaling usually changes the physical size but does not recalculate stitch density, so coverage drops when scaling up.
  • Record the original stitch count and design size from the file info screen before scaling.
  • Scale up only in a small range (a safe starting point is within 10–20%) and avoid “big jumps” for production garments.
  • Increase stabilizer support (and consider a soluble topper on textured fabrics) when scaling up so the fabric can’t shift under lighter coverage.
  • Success check: satin borders should look solid with no “teeth,” and fills should not show garment color between stitch rows.
  • If it still fails: resize the design in digitizing software so stitch count is regenerated for the new size.
• Q: On Usha/Janome embroidery machine panels, why does the stitch count stay the same (example: 20,907 ST) after scaling a design to 112%?
  A: Usha/Janome-style controllers commonly apply geometric scaling to the existing stitch map, so the stitch count may stay unchanged and density decreases.
  • Write down the baseline stitch count, width, and height from the design data screen.
  • Scale the design (example shown: 112%) and then return to the same data screen to confirm whether stitch count changed.
  • Treat “same stitch count after scaling up” as a warning sign that the sew-out will look lighter unless the file is resized in software.
  • Success check: after verification, the operator can predict outcome—unchanged stitch count after scaling up means reduced density.
  • If it still fails: stop adjusting on the panel and redo sizing in digitizing software (or use a correctly sized file) before stitching customer garments.
• Q: On HSW/Dahao-style industrial embroidery controller screens, why does setting X=110 and Y=110 not rebuild stitch density?
  A: HSW/Dahao-style industrial panels generally execute the existing stitch file and do not “re-digitize” the design when scaling.
  • Input X/Y scaling for small placement tweaks only, not for quality-critical size changes.
  • Manually trace the scaled design for hoop/frame clearance before starting to avoid collisions at the new size.
  • Stabilize more aggressively when scaling up because lighter coverage shows fabric movement more easily.
  • Success check: the design traces without hitting the hoop, and the sew-out shows no obvious gaps or ragged satin edges.
  • If it still fails: use digitizing software to resize so the stitch math is recalculated.
• Q: What is the safest pre-flight checklist before resizing an embroidery design on a commercial embroidery machine control panel?
  A: Do a quick baseline-and-safety check first, because on-machine resizing can create low density (upscale) or bulletproof density (downscale).
  • Record baseline stitch count and the original width/height from the screen before touching Scale X/Y.
  • Tap the hooped fabric and re-hoop if needed; aim for neutral, stable tension (not stretched like a trampoline).
  • Inspect the needle by running a fingernail down the shaft; replace the needle if any snag/click is felt near the tip.
  • Manually trace the resized design to confirm it will not strike the hoop/frame.
  • Success check: the hoop “drum” tap sounds rhythmic (thump-thump), and tracing completes with safe clearance.
  • If it still fails: run a test sew-out on similar scrap fabric before stitching a paying customer’s garment.
• Q: How can an embroidery operator tell whether scaling DOWN a design on a commercial embroidery machine has made the embroidery “bulletproof” and likely to break needles?
  A: If the same stitch count is packed into a smaller area, density can become excessively high and the sew-out may turn stiff and failure-prone.
  • Limit console scaling down to a small range (a safe starting point is within about 10–20%) and avoid aggressive reductions.
  • Watch for early warning signs: needle deflection, thread shredding, and unusually hard/stiff stitch build-up.
  • Swap to a fresh needle sooner than usual when testing scaled-down dense areas, because friction rises fast.
  • Success check: the stitched area stays flexible and does not feel like a rigid patch while running cleanly without shredding.
  • If it still fails: stop scaling down on the panel and resize in digitizing software to rebuild stitch spacing properly.
• Q: What stabilizer choice works best when scaling UP an embroidery design on knit T-shirts vs. towels/fleece, and why does scaling change the stabilizer requirement?
  A: Scaling up reduces stitch coverage, so fabric behavior shows more; use stronger stabilization on stretchy or lofty materials to keep registration and coverage looking clean.
  • For stretchy knits/performance wear: use cutaway stabilizer (the blog notes 2.5oz–3.0oz) to provide structure the fabric lacks.
  • For towels/fleece/pique polos: use cutaway on the bottom plus a soluble topper on top to prevent lighter stitches from sinking into pile.
  • If scaling UP more than a small amount, step up stabilizer “weight level” because the design is less forgiving.
  • Success check: fills do not look see-through, and edges stay registered without shifting/puckering after un-hooping.
  • If it still fails: reduce on-machine scaling and resize in software so density is preserved at the new size.
• Q: What needle-area safety rules should be followed during manual tracing and test runs when resizing an embroidery design on a commercial embroidery machine?
  A: Keep hands and tools completely clear during tracing and test runs, because a “quick check” can cause a crushed finger or broken needle instantly.
  • Remove snips and keep loose sleeves away from the needle area before pressing trace/start.
  • Use the machine’s manual trace function to confirm clearance instead of guiding fabric by hand near the needle.
  • Pause the machine before making any adjustments to hoop position or thread handling.
  • Success check: tracing completes with no contact, and the operator never needs to reach into the needle zone while the machine is moving.
  • If it still fails: stop and reset the setup—re-hoop and re-check clearance rather than trying to “save it” by hand.
• Q: What are the most important magnetic embroidery hoop safety precautions when switching from screw-tightened hoops to magnetic hoops for repetitive logo production?
  A: Treat magnetic hoops as industrial neodymium tools—pinch injuries and device damage are real risks.
  • Keep magnetic hoops away from pacemakers/medical implants, cell phones, and credit cards.
  • Never let two loose magnetic rings snap together; control separation to prevent shattering and finger pinches.
  • Load garments with deliberate hand placement and keep fingertips out of pinch points before releasing the magnets.
  • Success check: the hoop closes smoothly without a “snap,” and fabric is clamped evenly without needing to tug or over-tighten.
  • If it still fails: slow down the loading routine and consider using a hooping station to control placement and handling.