PE-Design 10 Keyboard Text That Actually Stitches Clean: Built-In vs TrueType Fonts, Then the “Convert to Blocks” Rescue

Lettering is where embroidery files either look professional… or instantly look homemade.

If you’ve ever typed text in PE-Design 10, hit “OK,” and then noticed weird crossovers inside a letter (especially B, R, S, or tight curves), you’re not alone. The good news: most of the time you don’t need to redraw the whole thing—you just need to know where PE-Design is “thinking wrong,” and how to nudge it back onto a clean stitch path.

This article rebuilds Kathleen McKee’s PE Design 10 lesson into a practical workflow you can repeat on real customer names, team lettering, and small-batch logo work. We will move beyond the basics, injecting industry-standard parameters and physical hooping strategies to ensure your results look like they came from a commercial production house.

Don’t Panic When PE-Design 10 Text Looks “Wonky”—It’s Usually Fixable in Minutes

When text stitches cross over themselves, it feels like the software is broken. In reality, it’s usually one of these situations:

• The font (built-in or TrueType) digitized with an awkward travel path.
• The letter is large enough that satin columns get too wide and start looking thin.
• The object type you’re trying to edit isn’t actually editable the way you think it is (common when the lettering came from auto-digitizing).

The calm mindset that saves time: treat keyboard text as a starting point, then verify stitch logic before you ever export a PES.

A stitch path is like a road map. If the road crosses itself, the machine will stitch over existing thread. Sensory check: If you hear your machine making a loud, rhythmic thump-thump-thump on a specific curve, it’s likely battling a density pile-up caused by a bad crossover.

The “Hidden” Prep Before Keyboard Text in Brother PE-Design 10 (So You Don’t Waste Test Runs)

Before you type a single letter, set yourself up to evaluate the result like a digitizer—not like a typist.

1) Decide what you’re testing: legibility (small text under 6mm/0.25"), coverage (large satin), or stitch path cleanliness (no crossovers).

2) Plan a quick sew-out strategy: even perfect-looking screen previews can stitch poorly on real fabric.

3) Know your editing boundary: some text objects are easy to tweak; others must be converted before you can truly clean them.

If you’re running production (names on uniforms, repeat orders, etc.), this is where you protect your profit: fewer test sew-outs means less stabilizer, less thread, and fewer “redo” garments.

Prep Checklist (Pre-Digitizing):

• Select the Text Tool: Confirm usage of the Home ribbon tool (small “A” icon).
• Match Font to Size:
  • Use Regular Text for standard names (10mm - 50mm).
  • Use Small Text specifically for lettering under 6mm (requires 60wt thread and 65/9 needle).
• Consumables Check (The Hidden Essentials):
  • Stabilizer: Have Cutaway (for knits) or Tearaway (for wovens) ready.
  • Topping: Have water-soluble topping ready if stitching on pike polo shirts or towels to prevent letters sinking.
  • Needles: Install a fresh 75/11 Sharp needle for crisp text edges.
• Stress Test Plan: Identify the trickiest letter (usually B, R, or A) to inspect first.
  

Use the PE-Design 10 Text Tool the Way It Was Intended (Regular vs Small vs Monogram)

In the video, the workflow starts under the Home tab:

• Click the Text icon (the small “A”).
• Open the dropdown and choose Regular Text for most applications.
• Use Small Text when you need very small lettering to remain readable.
• Monograms are a separate topic (and not part of this lesson).

This matters because the software’s assumptions change depending on the text mode. Physics Note: "Small Text" profiles usually reduce density and remove underlay to prevent the needle from cutting a hole in the fabric. If you use "Regular Text" settings on a 5mm letter, you will likely get a bird's nest or a hole.

Built-In Fonts vs Windows TrueType Fonts in PE-Design 10: What Changes (and What Doesn’t)

Kathleen shows a simple comparison that’s worth repeating:

• Built-in fonts: The next 120 styles in the list are digitized by the software vendor. These are "native" embroidery fonts, meaning the nodes are placed to optimize needle penetration.
• TrueType fonts (TTF): These come from your computer. They are vector shapes designed for printing ink, not laying thread. When you select them, PE-Design auto-calculates the stitches. This is where 90% of "wonky" text errors occur.

She demonstrates typing “ABC” twice:

1) Choose built-in Block 03 (No. 10), type ABC in all caps, then press Enter (or left-click) to place it. 2) Choose a TrueType font (example shown: Bologna), type ABC, then press Enter (or left-click) to place it.

A visual clue she points out:

• The selection squares/handles appear above the TrueType text.
• The built-in font’s handles appear differently (but both still transform and move).

Expert Insight: Just because you can convert a fancy script TrueType font doesn't mean you should. If the font varies wildly in thickness (very thick to hairline thin), the thin parts will disappear in thread.

The Quick Placement & Transform Moves (So Your Text Layout Doesn’t Get Weird Later)

Both built-in and TrueType text objects can be:

• Moved by dragging.
• Recolored.
• Transformed using the transform box (rotation/scale).

Kathleen demonstrates transforming part of the text (rotating/adjusting the “C”). The key takeaway: layout tools are similar across font types, so your decision between built-in vs TrueType should be driven by stitch quality and editability, not by fear of losing transform controls.

Spot the “Crossover” Problem Early: The Letter B Test That Saves You From Ugly Sew-Outs

Here’s the moment every digitizer recognizes: you zoom in and see stitches crossing in a way that will look messy in thread.

Kathleen points to a built-in font example where she doesn’t like how it crosses over—she calls it “wonky.” This is important because it proves a hard truth:

• Built-in fonts can still digitize poorly in specific letters.
• TrueType fonts can sometimes digitize better.
• Every font is different, regardless of category.

How to spot a failure: Look at the curves of B, P, R, or S. If the satin stitches trace over each other at an angle rather than flowing smoothly around the curve, you will get a hard lump of thread on the garment. This lump can break needles.

The Fix That Actually Works: Convert to Blocks, Ungroup, Then Delete Bad Nodes with Edit Point

When the stitch path looks wrong, Kathleen uses a clean, repeatable rescue sequence. This is the Gold Standard workflow for cleaning up auto-text.

Step 1 — Convert the text to blocks

• Select the text object.
• Go to the Text tab.
• Click Convert to Blocks.

You’ll see a blue outline around the letters, indicating they’re now editable shapes (vector blocks) rather than a live text object. Note: Once you do this, you can no longer change spelling by typing.

Step 2 — Ungroup the converted blocks

• Go back to the Home tab.
• Find the Group key.
• Click Ungroup.

This separates the letters/segments so you can edit specific parts. You are now surgically operating on one letter without affecting the others.

Step 3 — Use Edit Point (Select Point) and delete the problem nodes

• Select the Edit Point / Select Point tool.
• Click the hollow square nodes that are causing the crooked/crossover line.
• Press Delete on your keyboard repeatedly until the line smooths out.

Kathleen demonstrates this on the letter B: as nodes are removed, the outline snaps into a cleaner curve.

Sensory Tip: Think of the outline like a rubber band. Every node is a pin holding that rubber band in place. If there are too many pins, the band looks jagged. Remove the extra pins, and the rubber band naturally snaps back into a smooth, round curve. That is exactly what you want your thread to do.

Expected outcome: the letter’s outline becomes smoother and the stitch path becomes more logical—meaning fewer ugly overlaps when stitched.

Checkpoint that experienced digitizers use: delete points slowly. If you delete too aggressively, you can flatten a curve and create a new problem.

Warning: When editing nodes, you are altering geometry. If you accidentally narrow a satin column (the width of the letter stroke) to under 1.5mm, standard 40wt thread may begin to fray or break. Always maintain a stroke width of at least 1.5mm to 2mm for standard text.

Why You Sometimes “Don’t Have Those White Triangles and Squares” (Comment Question, Real Answer)

One viewer said they had the same issue at 4:08, but their lettering came from auto-digitizing and they didn’t see the same edit handles/options.

Here’s the practical explanation (without guessing beyond what the video shows): Kathleen’s fix works because the object is converted into editable blocks and then ungrouped, which exposes nodes you can delete.

If your lettering came from a different source (for example, auto-digitizing a JPEG image), you may have "Stitch Data" rather than "Outline Data." You cannot edit nodes on Stitch Data easily. The safest workflow inside PE-Design 10 is still:

• Try Convert to Blocks first.
• Ungroup next.
• Then attempt Edit Point node cleanup.

If the software refuses to show nodes, it's often faster to delete the bad letter and recreate it using the Text tool than to fight the limitations of a static file.

The Sewing Attributes Reality Check: “Half Stitch” Can Change the Look (and Confuse Your Diagnosis)

In the video, Kathleen notices Half Stitch is checked in the Sewing Attributes panel, and she mentions she doesn’t believe it’s the default—she thinks she had it selected earlier.

What is Half Stitch? In professional terms, this usually refers to a lighter density fill or a specific underlay pattern. If checked unintentionally, your satisfaction will drop because the text will look "see-through" or weak.

Attribute Guidelines (Beginner Sweet Spot):

• Density: 4.5 to 5.0 lines/mm (standard coverage).
• Underlay: Always use Center Run for text under 15mm. Use Edge Run + Zigzag for text over 20mm. This anchors the fabric to the stabilizer before the satin stitch begins, preventing distortion.
• Pull Compensation: Set to 0.2mm - 0.3mm. This slightly fattens the letter to compensate for the thread squeezing the fabric. Without this, your text will look thinner than it does on screen.
  

The 9 mm Satin Stitch Limit in PE-Design 10: Measure First, Then Decide Density vs Fill Type

Kathleen gives a key rule that every lettering digitizer should memorize:

• The default is often satin stitch.
• You should measure to see if the satin stitch will be too long.
• If it’s over 9 mm, it’s getting too long for a single satin span.

She notes it will still sew before it drops down a stitch, but recommends increasing density for better coverage on wide satin areas.

Why 9mm is the Danger Zone (Safety & Quality)

Most home machines have a maximum stitch width of 7mm. Some commercial machines go to 12mm. If you program a 9mm satin jump on a 7mm limit machine, the machine usually converts it to "Jump Stitches" or performs a "Split Satin."

However, even if your machine can do it, long threads snag. A 9mm loop of thread on a jacket is easily caught on a doorknob or fingernail.

• Recommendation: If a letter stroke is wider than 7mm-8mm, change the stitch type from Satin to Step Fill (Tatami) in the sewing attributes. This serves the same aesthetic purpose but is much more durable.
  

Can You Change Density in Only One Section of a Letter in PE-Design 10?

A commenter asked whether density can be changed in just one section of a letter.

In the replies, the creator states: “I don’t think you can.” She adds that this is one reason she usually likes to hand digitize text.

The Workaround: If you absolutely must have different densities (e.g., a fading effect), use the Knife Tool to cut the letter into two separate shapes. You can then assign Density A to the top half and Density B to the bottom half.

The Decision Tree I Use in Production: Font Type → Stitch Type → Stabilizer Test Plan

When you’re trying to get clean lettering fast (especially for paid work), use a simple decision tree so you don’t spiral into endless tweaking.

Decision Tree (text quality + sew-out reliability):

1. Is the lettering tiny (< 6mm) and must stay readable?
   • Yes → Use Small Text mode, 60wt thread, small needle (65/9). Avoid pile fabrics (towels).
   • No → Go to step 2.
2. Does the preview show crossovers or awkward travel inside letters (B/R/S)?
   • Yes → Convert to Blocks → Ungroup → Edit Point (Delete Nodes).
   • No → Go to step 3.
3. Is any satin span measuring over 7mm - 9mm?
   • Yes → Switch Stitch Type to Step Fill (Tatami) to prevent snagging.
   • No → Ensure Pull Compensation is set to at least 0.2mm.
4. Are you stitching on unstable fabric (T-Shirt/Pique Knit)?
   • Yes → Use Cutaway Stabilizer (Mandatory) + Water Soluble Topper. Adhesive spray is recommended.
   • No (Denim/Canvas) → Tearaway is acceptable.

Setup Checklist: The “Clean Lettering” Controls to Confirm Before You Export

This is the short list that prevents 80% of lettering headaches.

Setup Checklist (software side):

• Type Check: Confirm text is built-in or TrueType. If TrueType, zoom in to check for hairline thin sections.
• Path Logic: If the path twists, run the fix: Convert to Blocks → Ungroup → Edit Point.
• Attributes: Check Underlay is on (Center Run for small, Edge Run for large).
• Compensation: Ensure Pull Comp is active (0.2mm minimum).
• Safety: Flag any satin width >9mm and convert to Tatami.

“Shadow Text” and “Logo Hands/Fingers”: What to Do When the Request Is Bigger Than Keyboard Text

Two comments asked regarding tutorials for shadow text and complex shapes (like fingers).

Here’s the honest shop-floor answer: keyboard text is great for straightforward lettering, but once you start asking for specialized effects, you are no longer doing "lettering"—you are "digitizing." This requires manually drawing shapes, planning overlap, and managing stitch angles so the fabric doesn't pucker.

If beginners try to force the Text Tool to do complex logos, frustration is guaranteed. It is often better to learn manual digitizing tools (Shape tools) for these tasks.

The Upgrade Path When You’re Done Digitizing: Make the Sew-Out Faster, Cleaner, and More Repeatable

Digitizing is only half the job. The other half is running the file on physical fabric without distortion, hoop burn, or wasted time.

If you are just doing hobby work, standard plastic hoops are fine. But if you’re doing specific production runs (names on uniforms, awkward bags, or bulky towels), your bottleneck often becomes hooping—not the software.

The "Hoop Burn" Problem: Traditional hoops require you to jam an inner ring into an outer ring. On delicate fabrics or velvet, this leaves a permanent "burn" ring. On thick items (Carhartt jackets), it can pop open mid-stitch, destroying the garment.

The Solution Hierarchy:

1. Level 1 (Technique): Use "floating" techniques with adhesive spray instead of hooping the garment fully.
2. Level 2 (Tool Upgrade): Switch to magnetic embroidery hoops. These use powerful magnets to clamp fabric flat without forcing an inner ring inside. This eliminates hoop burn and significantly speeds up the process.
3. Level 3 (Machine Specific):
   • If you use a home machine, a magnetic hoop for brother pe800 or similar model allows you to hoop thick towels that simply won't fit in standard plastic frames.
   • Many professionals search for a brother pe800 magnetic hoop specifically to solve the issue of re-hooping repeatedly for multi-name orders, as the magnets allow for faster adjustments.

Warning: Magnetic hoops contain strong industrial magnets.
* Pinch Hazard: Keep fingers clear of the snap zone.
* Medical Safety: Keep away from pacemakers and sensitive electronics.

Generally, the more repeatable your hooping is, the more confidently you can evaluate whether a lettering problem is truly digitizing—or simply fabric movement.

Operation Checklist: The “One Test Sew-Out” Routine That Prevents Customer Returns

Once your lettering looks clean on screen, run it like a professional would.

Operation Checklist (Physical Execution):

• Trace First: Use the machine's "Trace" or "Trail" function to ensure the lettering fits the hoop and is centered.
• Auditory Check: Listen to the machine. A consistent purr is good. A sharp clack usually means the needle is hitting a dense knot of thread (crossover).
• Tension Check: On the back of the test sew-out, you should see 1/3 bobbin thread (white) in the center of the satin column. If you see no bobbin thread, top tension is too loose.
• Production Consistency: If doing multiples, use a marking tool or a machine embroidery hooping station to ensure every shirt has the name in the exact same spot.
• High Volume: For orders over 50 units, verify your workflow with a hoop master embroidery hooping station or similar alignment guide to reduce physical fatigue and placement errors.

The Bottom Line: Clean Text Comes From Stitch Logic, Not Font Hype

PE-Design 10 gives you fast keyboard text, but the real skill is knowing when to trust it and when to intervene.

• Trust: Built-in fonts for standard names.
• Verify: TrueType fonts (check nodes and stroke width).
• Fix: The sequence is Convert to Blocks → Ungroup → Edit Point.
• Stabilize: Match your stabilizer to your fabric stretch, not your font style.

And finally, recognize when your tools produce friction. If you are fighting the hoop more than the software, researching a hooping for embroidery machine upgrade like magnetic frames might be the productivity unlock that lets you enjoy the craft again.

FAQ

• Q: In Brother PE-Design 10 Keyboard Text, how do I fix “wonky” crossover stitches inside letters like B, R, S, or tight curves?
  A: Use the rescue sequence: Convert to Blocks → Ungroup → Edit Point (delete bad nodes) to clean the stitch path without redrawing the whole design.
  • Convert: Select the text object → Text tab → Convert to Blocks (note spelling can’t be typed/edited after this).
  • Ungroup: Home tab → Group → Ungroup so one letter can be edited independently.
  • Smooth: Choose Edit Point/Select Point → click the hollow square nodes causing the crooked/crossover line → press Delete gradually.
  • Success check: Zoom in and confirm the curve outline looks smooth (like a “rubber band” without jagged kinks), and the stitch path no longer crosses itself in the problem area.
  • If it still fails: Delete and recreate that single letter with the Text tool instead of fighting a non-editable object.
• Q: In Brother PE-Design 10, why does Windows TrueType (TTF) text look “wonky” compared with built-in embroidery fonts?
  A: TrueType fonts are designed for printing, so Brother PE-Design 10 auto-calculates stitches and may create awkward travel/crossovers—especially on variable-thickness scripts.
  • Compare: Type the same letters using a built-in font and a TrueType font, then zoom in on B/R/S curves.
  • Inspect: Look for hairline-thin sections that may disappear in thread and for crossovers inside curves.
  • Choose: Prefer built-in fonts for straightforward production names; use TrueType only after stitch-path inspection.
  • Success check: The preview shows smooth satin flow around curves with no angled stitch “pile-ups” where lines overlap.
  • If it still fails: Run Convert to Blocks → Ungroup → Edit Point node cleanup on the specific problem letter.
• Q: In Brother PE-Design 10, what is the safest way to use “Small Text” mode for lettering under 6 mm without bird’s nests or holes?
  A: Use Small Text mode with the matching consumables (60wt thread and a 65/9 needle) and avoid forcing Regular Text settings onto 5–6 mm letters.
  • Select: Home tab → Text tool → choose Small Text (not Regular Text) for <6 mm lettering.
  • Install: Use 60wt thread and a 65/9 needle for tiny text as a controlled setup.
  • Stabilize: Add water-soluble topping on pique polos/towels to prevent letters sinking; choose stabilizer based on fabric (cutaway for knits, tearaway for wovens).
  • Success check: Letters remain readable with clean edges, and the machine sound stays consistent (no rhythmic “thump-thump” on tight curves).
  • If it still fails: Reduce complexity (avoid thin script TrueType fonts) and test a built-in small-text-friendly font.
• Q: In Brother PE-Design 10, what settings should be checked when “Half Stitch” is accidentally enabled and text looks weak or see-through?
  A: Turn off unintended Half Stitch and reset text to a beginner-safe baseline: standard density, correct underlay, and pull compensation.
  • Verify: Open Sewing Attributes and confirm whether Half Stitch is checked unintentionally.
  • Set: Use Density around 4.5–5.0 lines/mm as a safe starting point for normal coverage.
  • Anchor: Use Center Run underlay for text under 15 mm; use Edge Run + Zigzag underlay for text over 20 mm.
  • Compensate: Set Pull Compensation to about 0.2–0.3 mm so letters don’t sew thinner than the preview.
  • Success check: Satin columns look solid (not transparent) and letter edges look crisp rather than “starved.”
  • If it still fails: Sew a small test on the real fabric/stabilizer combo—screen previews can mislead.
• Q: In Brother PE-Design 10 lettering, when should a satin stitch be changed to Step Fill (Tatami) because the satin span is too wide?
  A: Measure the satin width first—if any stroke is over about 7–9 mm, switching to Step Fill (Tatami) is usually safer and more durable than forcing wide satin.
  • Measure: Identify the widest part of a letter stroke before exporting.
  • Decide: If the satin span exceeds roughly 7–9 mm, change stitch type to Step Fill (Tatami) in Sewing Attributes.
  • Protect: Treat long satin spans as snag risks (wide loops catch easily in wear).
  • Success check: The preview shows a fill-style texture instead of long satin bridges, reducing long thread floats that can snag.
  • If it still fails: Increase density only after confirming the stitch type is appropriate for the width.
• Q: In Brother PE-Design 10, why can’t some lettering be edited with Edit Point nodes (no white triangles/squares), especially after auto-digitizing?
  A: Some files become Stitch Data instead of editable Outline Data, so node editing may be limited; try converting to blocks and ungrouping, then decide whether rebuilding is faster.
  • Attempt: Select the lettering → Convert to Blocks → Ungroup to expose editable shapes whenever possible.
  • Test: Choose Edit Point/Select Point and see whether hollow square nodes appear for cleanup.
  • Decide: If nodes never appear or edits behave “locked,” recreate the problem letter using the Text tool rather than spending time fighting static data.
  • Success check: Editable outlines show nodes that can be deleted to smooth curves without breaking the letter shape.
  • If it still fails: Replace only the bad letter/segment instead of scrapping the whole name.
• Q: For production hooping, how should embroidery hoop burn on delicate fabrics be reduced, and when should magnetic embroidery hoops be considered?
  A: Start with technique (floating) to reduce hoop pressure; if hoop burn and re-hooping time still dominate, magnetic embroidery hoops are a practical next step for repeatable clamping.
  • Diagnose: Identify whether the bottleneck is hoop pressure marks (hoop burn), fabric shifting, or slow re-hooping between names.
  • Level 1: Use floating techniques with adhesive spray instead of fully hooping delicate garments.
  • Level 2: Consider magnetic embroidery hoops to clamp fabric flat without forcing an inner ring into an outer ring, which often reduces hoop burn and speeds loading.
  • Level 3: If volume and repeatability requirements grow, evaluate a production machine/hooping workflow upgrade after the hooping process is stable.
  • Success check: After stitching, the garment shows minimal or no permanent hoop ring, and placement is repeatable without frequent re-hooping adjustments.
  • If it still fails: Re-check stabilizer choice (cutaway for knits) and run a single controlled test sew-out to confirm fabric movement isn’t being misdiagnosed as a digitizing issue.
• Q: What magnetic embroidery hoop safety rules should be followed to prevent finger injuries and medical/electronics risks?
  A: Treat magnetic embroidery hoops as industrial magnets—keep fingers out of the snap zone and keep the hoop away from pacemakers and sensitive electronics.
  • Handle: Separate and close the magnetic frame slowly; keep fingertips clear where magnets meet (pinch hazard).
  • Control: Set the hoop on a stable surface before engaging magnets to avoid sudden snap closure.
  • Protect: Keep magnetic hoops away from pacemakers and sensitive electronics as a strict safety rule.
  • Success check: The hoop closes smoothly without sudden snapping, and fabric is clamped evenly without needing force.
  • If it still fails: Stop and reposition—never “fight” the magnets with fingers in the closing path.