Melco Upper Threading When the Feed Tube Is Empty: Two Fast Re-Thread Methods That Save a Production Day

Running a production job and seeing a “thread break” message is annoying. But the moment that cone goes truly empty—and the thread retracts so there’s no thread left in the feed tube—that’s when operators lose real money.

If you run melco embroidery machines in a professional setting, an empty feed tube is one of those “silent killers” of efficiency. It essentially forces a full manual re-thread through a concealed path. In a busy shop, this can quietly burn an accumulative hour across a shift if your team doesn’t have a repeatable, standardized recovery routine.

As an embroidery veteran, I tell my students: "Machine downtime is the only cost you can't invoice for."

This guide rebuilds the exact workflow required to recover from a "run-out": two ways to re-feed an empty tube, the precise manual upper threading path (guides → sensor → take-up lever → needle), and the critical grabber adjustment to secure the tail. We will move beyond basic instructions into the "feel" and "physics" of the machine to ensure you don't just fix it, but prevent it from happening again.

The “Empty Tube Panic” on a Melco Head—What’s Actually Happening (and Why It Feels Worse Than a Normal Break)

When you’re sewing along at 1000 stitches per minute (SPM) and try to squeeze the last bit of thread off a cone, the machine can detect a break. You look up and realize the thread isn’t just broken at the needle… it’s gone from the system entirely.

The physics of this are simple but frustrating. When tension releases suddenly at the cone end, the thread can "snap back" (retract) up the tube like a rubber band, leaving the long feed tube empty.

Here is the operational difference:

• A Standard Break: Leaves a tail at the needle or take-up lever. Fix time: 15 seconds.
• A Full Run-Out: The tube is empty. You cannot simply “pull more thread” to the front. Fix time: 2-5 minutes (without a system).

The presenter in our reference video is blunt: letting it run all the way out is a rookie mistake. The best prevention is swapping cones before you hit the cardboard core, tying the new thread to the old, and pulling it through (the "tie-on" method).

However, in the real world, run-outs happen. You need a clean, safe method to get thread back through the tube without turning your machine into a fishing expedition.

The “Hidden Prep” Pros Do Before Touching the Thread Tube (So You Don’t Create a Second Problem)

Before you try to feed anything through a tube, we must perform a "Pre-Flight Check." Experienced operators do this automatically to avoid damaging the delicate sensors.

1. Forensic Analysis (The "Why"): Look at the empty cone. Was it simply empty? Or did the thread snap midway and retract?

• If it snapped: Check the thread path for burrs or sticky residue. Running new thread over a burr will just cause another break in 5 minutes.
• If it's empty: Simply replace the cone.

2. Mechanical Setup: Place the new cone over the thread guide and down over the post. Do not start feeding until you have positioned your body so you can reach both the top (cone) and the bottom (feed tube exit) without overstretching.

Warning: Mechanical Safety Hazard. Keep fingers, loose sleeves, hoodie drawstrings, and long hair tied back and clear of the moving needle case area. Even when stopped, accidental activation can cause severe injury. When trimming near the needle case, use small snips, not shears, to avoid nicking the presser foot sensor or cutting a neighbor thread.

Prep Checklist: The "Go/No-Go" Sequence

• Status Check: Confirm thread is fully retracted out of the feed tube (visual inspection).
• Consumable Check: Verify the new cone is the correct color weight (usually 40wt).
• Stability Check: Ensure the new cone is seated firmly on the post; a wobbling cone causes variable tension.
• Tool Check: Have your Monofilament Tool or Canned Air within arm's reach.
• Lighting: Turn on your station task light. Mis-routing the thread sensor due to shadows is the #1 cause of false break errors.

Method 1: Pull Thread Through the Melco Feed Tube with the Monofilament Tool (Slow-But-Sure Recovery)

This is the standard "Operator’s Kit" method. It uses a long, semi-rigid plastic monofilament (like heavy fishing line) with a notch cut into the ends. It is the safest method for the machine.

The Micro-Steps:

1. Select Your End: Locate the monofilament tool. Check the notches on the ends. If one is bent or jagged, use the other end.
2. Insert from Bottom: Insert the tool into the feed tube from the bottom (near the tension knobs) pushing upward toward the cone.
   • Expert Note: While you can go top-down, gravity helps the tool slide down, but going bottom-up is often easier to control visually on Melco setups where the rack is high.
3. The "Safety Hand": Crucial Step. Maintain a grip on the bottom end of the tool. Do not push it all the way in so that you lose the tail inside the tube!
4. Capture: When the tool pops out the top near the cone, slide your embroidery thread into the notch.
5. The Drag: Gently pull the monofilament tool back down from beneath the thread rack. The thread is dragged through the tube.
6. Release: Unhook the thread, coil the monofilament tool, and return it to its home.

Success Metric

• Visual: You see the tool and thread exit the bottom of the tube smoothly.
• Tactile: There should be zero resistance. If the tool gets stuck, do not yank. You may have hit a splice in the tube. Rotate the tool and gently push/pull.

Securing the Thread in the Monofilament Notch—The Tiny Detail That Prevents a “Do It Twice” Moment

This step seems trivial, but failure here is annoying. The "Notch" is simply a slit in the plastic.

The Physics of the Pull: If you don't seat the thread deep into the notch, or if you pull too violently, the friction of the tube walls will strip the thread out of the tool halfway down. You will pull the tool out empty, and you will have to start over.

Touch Anchor:

• Slide the thread into the notch.
• Give it a tiny tug to ensure it "bites."
• When pulling the tool back through the tube, pull with a smooth, continuous motion. Jerky movements tend to dislodge the payload.

Method 2: Use Canned Air to Blow Thread Through the Melco Tube (Fast, Slick—But Do It with Control)

If the monofilament tool is missing, or you are in a rush, compressed air (canned air) is a valid "MacGyver" technique.

The Micro-Steps:

1. Prime the Tube: Feed about 1 inch (2-3cm) of thread into the top of the tube. It needs to be loose enough to be carried by air, but deep enough not to blow back at you.
2. Position: Place the straw of the canned air at the tube opening. Do not seal the opening completely; air needs to flow.
3. Fire: Use short, sharp bursts. Pfft. Pfft.
   • Do not hold the trigger down. Continuous spraying freezes the can (reducing pressure) and can create condensation (moisture) in your thread tube. Moisture + Thread Dust = Sludge.

Success Metric

• Visual: The thread suddenly shoots out the bottom of the tube like a projectile.
• Watch-out: Ensure you aren't spraying dust directly into the electronics of the tensioner below.

Lock the Thread into the Pinch Roller “B Notch” First—So the Rest of Threading Isn’t a Slippery Fight

Once the thread protrudes from the tube, stop. Do not try to thread the needle yet. You are fighting a loose rope. You need tension.

The "Anchor" Technique:

1. Lift: Raise the black plastic pinch roller lever.
2. Align: Seat the thread firmly into the “B notch” (the center groove on the roller).
3. Snap: Push the pinch roller lever back down. Listen for the Snap.

Why this matters (The "Third Hand" Principle)

In professional embroidery, tension is control.

• Without Pinch Roller: Thread is slack. It falls off the take-up lever. You need two hands to keep it taut.
• With Pinch Roller: The machine "holds" the thread for you. You can pull against it to snap it into guides. Use the machine to help you thread the machine.

Thread the Upper Guides + Thread Sensor on the Melco Head—Follow the Back-Right / Front-Hole Pattern Exactly

We are now entering the "Precision Zone." This specific path determines if your machine runs at 1200 SPM or breaks every 30 seconds.

Concept: The "S" Curve Commercial machines use tortuous paths to stabilize thread whipping. Follow this exactly:

1. Upper Thread Guide: Go Top → Bottom.
2. Middle Guide Plate (Entry): Go down through the Back Right hole.
3. Thread Sensor Wheel: This is the brain of the machine. Route the thread UNDER the wheel.
   • Sensory Check: Lift the thread gently up and down. It should move the little wheel or sit firmly in the groove.
4. Middle Guide Plate (Exit): Come back UP through the Front hole.

KWD Context: Correct routing through the sensor is critical for melco embroidery machines because unlike older machines that use springs for tension, Melco systems (like AMAYA or EMT16X) use "Acti-Feed" technology which relies entirely on this sensor data to deliver the correct amount of thread.

Hit the Take-Up Lever Right-to-Left—Then Use the Back-Left Hole to Return Down (This Is Where Most Mis-Threads Happen)

This section causes 80% of "undefined" thread breaks.

The "Cardinal Direction" Rule:

1. The Lever: Thread the eye of the Take-Up Lever from Right → Left.
   • Common Error: Operators often hook it from behind or miss the eyelet entirely, letting the thread ride on the metal arm. This will cause an immediate birdsnest.
2. The Return: After the lever, go back DOWN to the middle guide plate.
3. The Target: Enter the Back Left hole.
4. The Wire: Important! Route the thread BEHIND the thread sensor wire (the vertical metal bar).

Expert Insight: The Pull Test

At this stage, grab the thread tail and pull gently (with the pinch roller UP for a second, then DOWN).

• Correct: The thread slides smoothly but with drag.
• Incorrect: The thread feels "scratchy" or gets stuck. This means you have likely wrapped it around the sensor post twice or missed a guide.

Finish the Lower Guide + Needle Threading Front-to-Back—Then Don’t Skip the Grabber Adjustment

We are in the home stretch.

The Needle Protocol:

1. Lower Guide: Pass down through the lower eyelet (above the needle bar).
2. Needle Eye: Thread the needle Front → Back.
   
   Tip

   If the thread is frayed, trim it with sharp snips at a 45-degree angle. Do not lick the thread (saliva causes rust).
3. Channel Alignment: Ensure the thread sits in the vertical groove down the front of the needle.

The “Adjustment + Center” Key Combo: Use the Melco Grabber to Trap the Thread Tail Like the Other Needles

You've threaded the needle, but a loose tail is a liability. It can get sewn into the design (ugly) or pulled out on the first stitch (unthreaded).

The Production Finish:

1. Retract: Press the Adjustment key + Center key simultaneously on the keypad.
   • Action: The mechanical "grabber" (behind the needles) moves back, hooks the thread, and pulls it into the velcro "keeper."
2. Trim: Cut the tail so it is neatly stored in the velcro, matching the length of the other 15 needles.
3. Reset: Press Adjustment + Center again (or simply start the machine) to reset the mechanical state.

Why this matters: On a high-speed melco emt16x embroidery machine, startup speed is aggressive. Using the grabber ensures the top thread is anchored for the first stitch formation, preventing "start-up pull-outs."

Setup Choices That Quietly Reduce Repeat Thread Breaks (Thread, Tension Feel, and Operator Habits)

If you find yourself performing this threading procedure five times a day, you don't have a threading problem—you have a System Problem.

Thread breaks are rarely just "bad luck." They are physics telling you something is wrong.

The "Sweet Spot" Variables:

1. Speed vs. Reality: Just because your machine can run at 1200 SPM doesn't mean it should on every fabric. For metallic threads or delicate rayons, dialing down to 750-850 SPM often increases net production because you stop having breaks.
2. Needle Health: A burred needle shreds thread. Change needles every 4-8 running hours or after any collision.
3. Stabilizer: Using insufficient backing causes the fabric to flag (bounce), which smacks the needle and snaps the thread.
   • Rule of Thumb: If in doubt, add a layer of stabilizer, not more tension.
4. Hooping: This is the #1 culprit. If the fabric is loose in the hoop (drum skin test: tap it, it should sound taut), the needle penetration will be sloppy, causing breaks.

Note on Compatibility: While this guide visualizes the EMT16/Bravo style, owners of the older melco amaya embroidery machine will find the thread path geometry nearly identical. However, always consult your specific manual for tensioner differences (spring vs. digital).

Setup Checklist: Ready to Run?

• Pinch Roller: Down (Locked).
• Sensor Path: Thread under the wheel, no tangles.
• Lever: Threaded Right-to-Left.
• Needle: Threaded Front-to-Back.
• Grabber: Tail is caught and trimmed.
• Hoop: Fabric is taut (no trampoline bounce).

Troubleshooting the Two Most Common “I Did Everything” Problems (Symptoms → Cause → Fix)

A Fast Decision Tree: When to Use Monofilament vs Canned Air (and When to Upgrade Your Workflow)

Start: Needle X Feed Tube is Empty

1. Is your station equipped correctly?
   • Yes (I see the Kit): Use Monofilament Tool. It is controlled, clean, and protects the sensors.
   • No (I lost it): Go to Step 2.
2. Do you have high-pressure canned air?
   • Yes: Use Method 2 (Air). Use short bursts.
   • No: You must manually feed by gravity (very slow) or find a stiff wire (risky - can scratch tube). Stop and order a new tool kit.
3. Is this happening every hour?
   • Yes: This is a production crisis. Check your Hooping and Digitizing (too dense?).
   • No: It's normal. Proceed.

If you are running the entry-level melco bravo embroidery machine, these habits are even more critical as you build your commercial volume.

The Upgrade Path That Actually Saves Time: Reduce Re-Hooping, Reduce Rework, and Keep Output Predictable

We have discussed how to fix a break. Now let's discuss how to stop them.

In my consultation with shops, I find that 60% of thread breaks are caused by poor hooping. Traditional screw-tightened hoops often leave the fabric slightly loose or leave "hoop burn" marks that ruin the garment. When fabric shifts, the needle deflects, and the thread snaps.

The Hierarchy of Solutions

When you are ready to move from "Struggling operator" to "Production Manager," evaluate your tools:

• Level 1: Stability (Consumables). Ensure you are using high-quality backing (Cutaway for knits, Tearaway for woven).
• Level 2: Efficiency (Tooling). If your team struggles with thick jackets, buttons, or delicate performance wear, traditional hoops are the bottleneck. Switching to a magnetic hooping station allows you to clamp fabric instantly without forcing inner/outer rings together. This reduces operator wrist strain and keeps tension perfectly consistent.
• Level 3: Specialization.
  • Hats: Use a dedicated melco hat hoop driver (wide angle) to prevent flagging on curved surfaces.
  • Large Jackets: Use a melco xl hoop or a large magnetic frame to maximize the sew field without re-hooping.

Warning: Magnetic Safety. Professional Magnetic Hoops (like MaggieFrame or MightyHoop) use industrial-grade magnets. They are incredibly strong.
* Pinch Hazard: Keep fingers clear of the "snap zone."
* Medical Risk: Keep at least 6 inches away from pacemakers and other implanted medical devices.
* Electronics: Do not place magnetic hoops directly on top of your machine's control panel or compute module.

Upgrading from standard melco embroidery hoops to magnetic systems is often the highest ROI investment a shop can make because it solves the root cause of tension-related thread breaks: the hooping itself.

Final Operations Checklist

• Environment: Is your shop humidity controlled? (Dry thread breaks).
• Maintenance: Have you oiled the rotary hook today?
• Tools: Is the Monofilament tool hanging on the side of the machine?
• Mindset: Don't fight the machine. If it breaks thread 3 times, Stop. Inspect Path. Inspect Hoop. Inspect Needle.

FAQ

• Q: How do operators re-feed an empty thread feed tube on Melco embroidery machines after a cone runs out completely?
  A: Use a monofilament threading tool from the bottom of the tube to pull new thread through in a controlled way.
  • Insert the monofilament tool from the bottom (near the tension area) and keep a firm hold on the tail so it cannot disappear into the tube.
  • Hook the embroidery thread into the notch when the tool exits near the cone, then pull the tool back down smoothly.
  • Avoid yanking; rotate and gently work the tool if it hangs up.
  • Success check: The tool and thread exit the bottom smoothly with near-zero resistance.
  • If it still fails: Stop pulling hard and inspect for a snag/splice point or burrs that may be catching the tool or thread.
• Q: How do operators blow thread through a Melco thread tube using canned air without creating moisture or sensor problems?
  A: Use short bursts of canned air to propel a short pre-fed tail through the tube, but do not hold the trigger down.
  • Feed about 1 inch (2–3 cm) of thread into the top of the tube before applying air.
  • Aim the straw at the tube opening without sealing it completely so airflow can carry the thread.
  • Pulse with short bursts (“pfft, pfft”) to avoid freezing the can and creating condensation.
  • Success check: The thread shoots out the bottom of the tube cleanly.
  • If it still fails: Switch to the monofilament tool method to avoid repeatedly blasting dust toward tensioner/sensor areas.
• Q: Why can Melco embroidery machines feel impossible to thread after tube feeding, and how does the pinch roller “B notch” fix the slack?
  A: Lock the thread into the pinch roller “B notch” immediately after the thread exits the tube to create usable tension.
  • Lift the black plastic pinch roller lever.
  • Seat the thread firmly into the center groove (“B notch”).
  • Snap the lever down and let the machine hold the thread while threading the guides.
  • Success check: The lever snaps down and the thread now has controlled drag instead of falling slack.
  • If it still fails: Re-seat the thread in the center groove; if the thread still will not stay put, re-check that enough thread is protruding from the tube.
• Q: How should operators route thread through the Melco thread sensor wheel to prevent false thread break errors on Melco embroidery machines?
  A: Route the thread under the sensor wheel and follow the back-right hole to front-hole pattern on the guide plate.
  • Thread the upper guide top-to-bottom.
  • Go down through the middle guide plate back-right hole, then route the thread under the sensor wheel.
  • Return up through the middle guide plate front hole.
  • Success check: A gentle up/down tug makes the sensor wheel move or the thread sits securely in the wheel groove.
  • If it still fails: Re-route (most errors are from going over the wheel) and gently dust the sensor area with controlled canned air.
• Q: What is the correct Melco take-up lever threading direction to prevent immediate birdnesting on Melco embroidery machines?
  A: Thread the take-up lever eye from right-to-left, then return down via the back-left hole and keep the thread behind the sensor wire.
  • Pass the thread through the take-up lever eye right-to-left (do not hook from behind or ride on the arm).
  • Return down to the middle guide plate and enter the back-left hole.
  • Route behind the vertical thread sensor wire (metal bar) during the return.
  • Success check: A gentle pull feels smooth with consistent drag (not scratchy, not stuck).
  • If it still fails: Re-check for accidental wraps around the sensor post or a missed guide that makes the pull feel rough.
• Q: How do operators use the Melco “Adjustment + Center” key combo to secure the thread tail with the grabber after needle threading?
  A: Press Adjustment + Center to let the grabber trap the thread tail, then trim and reset so the first stitches do not pull out.
  • Thread the needle front-to-back and ensure the thread sits in the needle’s front groove.
  • Press Adjustment + Center together to retract and catch the tail into the keeper area.
  • Trim the tail neatly to match neighboring needles, then press Adjustment + Center again (or start) to reset.
  • Success check: The thread tail is held neatly with the others and does not whip loose at start-up.
  • If it still fails: Re-thread the needle front-to-back and repeat the grabber step; if the tail will not hold, re-check the take-up lever and sensor routing.
• Q: When Melco embroidery machines keep having repeat thread breaks during production, what is a practical upgrade path from setup tweaks to magnetic hoops to production equipment?
  A: Treat repeat breaks as a system issue: optimize speed/needle/stabilizer/hooping first, then consider magnetic hoops for consistent clamping, then consider production-oriented machine capacity if volume demands it.
  • Reduce speed when needed (metallic/delicate threads often run better at lower SPM than maximum).
  • Change needles regularly and after any impact; add stabilizer rather than adding more tension when fabric is unstable.
  • Improve hooping consistency; loose fabric (“trampoline bounce”) drives deflection and breaks, and magnetic hoops often reduce hooping variability and hoop marks.
  • Success check: Fewer stop events per shift and stable stitch formation without frequent re-threading.
  • If it still fails: Stop after the third break and inspect the full thread path for burrs/residue and confirm the sensor/take-up lever routing is exact before resuming.
• Q: What safety rules should operators follow when re-threading near the needle case area on Melco embroidery machines and when handling industrial magnetic embroidery hoops?
  A: Keep hands and loose items away from the needle case area, use small snips for trimming, and treat magnetic hoops as pinch- and medical-hazard tools.
  • Tie back long hair, remove/secure hoodie strings and loose sleeves, and keep fingers clear even when the machine is stopped.
  • Trim with small snips (not large shears) to reduce the risk of nicking nearby parts or cutting adjacent threads.
  • Handle magnetic hoops carefully: keep fingers out of the snap zone, keep magnets at least 6 inches from pacemakers/implants, and avoid placing magnets on control panels/electronics.
  • Success check: Threading and trimming are completed without any uncommanded movement risk and without pinched fingers or magnet “snap” incidents.
  • If it still fails: Pause production and reset the work area (lighting, tool placement, clear access) before attempting the threading routine again.